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countersink, dimple and nutplates

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Carlos Sa

Joined: 13 Jan 2006
Posts: 96

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 6:58 am Post subject: countersink, dimple and nutplates

Hello, all



Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am looking for some information and advice.



I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture. countersinking, dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I thought I would turn to the community of builders that does this the most.



I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to proceed. So, here are my questions & concerns:



1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for countersinking? Do I dimple instead?

2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material underneath...? In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one with the dimpled lugs?  (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049)

3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does this work?



Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!!



Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast.

Carlos Sa

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_________________
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada

bicyclop(at)pacbell.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 9:09 am Post subject: countersink, dimple and nutplates

Carlos,



.020 is indeed too thin for countersinking a standard rivet, but you can 

get away with "oops" rivets (sold by Avery and others) which have much 

smaller heads and require a much shallower countersink. You wouldn't 

need to have dimpled nutplates if you use them. They are also known as 

shear head rivets. I use them a lot for holding nutplates.



An alternative to dimpled nutplates is to dimple them yourself. I ground 

one side of the female die flat so that it clears the central portion of 

the nutplate to facilitate the process.



Are you using flush screws? If so, you will need the countersunk 

nutplates. You don't have to get the ones with dimpled lugs if you 

dimple them yourself. Avery and Cleaveland tools have dimple dies for 

screw holes. Another thing you can do, if you're too cheap to buy the 

dimple dies, is to make a jig with a C-sunk nutplate riveted to a scrap 

of aluminum. You would hold this behind the screw hole and run a flush 

screw into it, using the nutplate as a female die. Be sure to lube the 

threads of the screw and the metal around the hole and work slowly. As 

always, practice on scrap first.



Have fun with it.



Pax,



Ed Holyoke



Carlos Sa wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  



Hello, all



Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am looking for some information and advice.



I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture. countersinking, dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I thought I would turn to the community of builders that does this the most.



I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to proceed. So, here are my questions & concerns:



1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for countersinking? Do I dimple instead?

2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material underneath...? In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one with the dimpled lugs?  (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049)

3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does this work?



Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!!



Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast.

Carlos Sa



--------

CH601-HD, plans

Montreal, Canada





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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989





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mike109g6(at)insideconnec
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Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 9:42 pm Post subject: countersink, dimple and nutplates

Carlos,

For #6, #8 flush head screws you need the corresponding dimple die, ie screw 

heads are different from rivet heads.  Avery, Cleveland, ATS, Plane Tools, 

all carry Screw dimple die sets.  So you will need #40 rivet dimple die set 

for the platenut rivets and the appropriate screw dimple die set.  Dimpling 

the platenuts is easy as Ed pointed out.  Use the large size dimpled plate 

nuts for the screw that you will be using if you can.  They are much easier 

to rivet.  Platenut jigs are available at those mentioned companies as well. 

Pricey but worth it if you are doing a bunch of platenuts.

Mike H 9A/8A

---

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n616tb(at)btsapps.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 6:12 am Post subject: countersink, dimple and nutplates

Another idea Carlos would be to see if there is an RV builder in your area.

Since your plane doesn't use much of this buying the tools seems rather

un-necessary.  You might be able to find an RV builder near by who would be

willing to help with this small piece and has the tools needed.



I see you are in Montreal, Canada.  Anyone near there?

Tim



[quote] --

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