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kearney(at)shaw.ca
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 Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 1:50 pm Post subject: Rolling the front fuse skis |
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Hi
As I worked through section 29 I found that I didn’t like the suggested method for rolling the front fuse skins (page 29-11). When doing the rear skins, the angles are clecoed in place along the length of the skin to be rolled. This is very secure and easy to manipulate. The front skin method is different in that it requires the construction roll angles to be only clamped in place.
The risk with this approach is that if a clamp slips, you may end up ruining a skin. Using the recommended method, I did have a clamp start to move and the angles did start to splay apart somewhat. I could have used more clamps but I wasn’t sure if I wanted to risk the skin.
Here is what I did which seemed to work very well:
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>First I marked the end of roll line per the plans.
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>Along the end roll line, I placed the edge of a 4’ piece of 1 ½ by 1 ½ by 1/18 aluminium angle. The 1 ½” angle is required to reach the skin holes while lined up on the end of roll line.
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>I cleco clamped the aluminium angle in place and then match drilled the skin holes into the angle.
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>I removed the angle and then matched drilled these holes into a mirror image piece of aluminium
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>I then clecod the angles back onto the skin (as if I was doing the aft skins)
Now I had a very secure construction roll angle to roll the forward skins. I then followed the instructions as per the plans.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 – Singing the section 29 blues
[quote][b]
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rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
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| Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 2:23 pm Post subject: Rolling the front fuse skis |
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I second this one!. When I rolled the front skins I did have one of the van's recommended vise-grip style clamps come off and dent the skin. Fortuneately I hardly had any pressure on the clamp and I was able to fix the dent. However, the method in the instruction manual is definetly flawed. I found that i was able to use a series of wood hand clamps to secure the two angle aluminum roll guides. They worked just fine, but I was nervous the whole time. The method described making bigger roll guides is probably the best. Keep up the good work in monster section 29.
-Bob Newman
[quote] ---
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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rv10(at)sinkrate.com
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| Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 6:09 pm Post subject: Rolling the front fuse skis |
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I third this… I unfortunately wasn’t as smart as you. What I ended up doing was following vans plans pretty much. The same thing happened to me on the forward edge where the clamps started slipping and the aluminum angle actually flexed away from the skins. I was able to use the hand seamers from avery to clamp the angles as close to the forward edge as I could. I found if I leaned across the workbench, cussed a whole bunch (at least 30 minutes per skin), and popped a vein in my forehead squeezing with my hands as hard as I could while rolling, things worked out pretty good. I would definitely take more time looking at it and figuring another method (like yours below) if I had to do it again.
I did have to massage out a crease caused by the aluminum angle slipping on one of them. I figure if anybody starts crawling around underneath looking at my “skin bending job” it will be because theirs look similar. We will then go have a beer together while discussing runaway trim!!
Section 29 sucks!!!
-Ben
#40579
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:49 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Rolling the front fuse skis
Hi
As I worked through section 29 I found that I didn’t like the suggested method for rolling the front fuse skins (page 29-11). When doing the rear skins, the angles are clecoed in place along the length of the skin to be rolled. This is very secure and easy to manipulate. The front skin method is different in that it requires the construction roll angles to be only clamped in place.
The risk with this approach is that if a clamp slips, you may end up ruining a skin. Using the recommended method, I did have a clamp start to move and the angles did start to splay apart somewhat. I could have used more clamps but I wasn’t sure if I wanted to risk the skin.
Here is what I did which seemed to work very well:
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>First I marked the end of roll line per the plans.
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>Along the end roll line, I placed the edge of a 4’ piece of 1 ½ by 1 ½ by 1/18 aluminium angle. The 1 ½” angle is required to reach the skin holes while lined up on the end of roll line.
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>I cleco clamped the aluminium angle in place and then match drilled the skin holes into the angle.
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>I removed the angle and then matched drilled these holes into a mirror image piece of aluminium
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>I then clecod the angles back onto the skin (as if I was doing the aft skins)
Now I had a very secure construction roll angle to roll the forward skins. I then followed the instructions as per the plans.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 – Singing the section 29 blues
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01234
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| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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