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RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank

 
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dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 10:42 pm    Post subject: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank Reply with quote

All ye RV-6/6A builders:

Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel.

The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and the
bellcrank is centered between them. Van's old plans call for an AN3-10A
bolt, thick washer and stop nut but that's obviously wrong. I checked my
rail spacing just to be sure and yes I built them to the plans. So...I
switched the bolt to an AN3-7 and with the thick washer and stop nut there
is 2-3 threads sticking out of the stop nut. The bellcrank rotates freely
but looking at the clearance between the end of the bolt and the bottom rail
I would guess about 1/16 of an inch is all I have.

This makes me nervous, the bellcrank mounting rails are 1/8 inch thick and
that area is pretty stout but, the rod ends mount into the outer ends of the
bellcrank itself (two pieces of 1/16 plate spaced apart by thick AN3 bolt
washers in 4 places plus the center bearing mount acting as a spacer). If
there is much flexing in the outer ends of the bellcrank in flight then it
might be possible for the bolt end to come in contact with the mounting rail
and ruin my day (life).

I looked at going to an AN3-6A bolt but it doesn't look like there will be
ANY threads sticking out of the stop nut when it's tightend (if I'm lucky
and use a thin washer, I might get the threads to edge of the nylon in the
end of the stop nut). Also if I used the -6A bolt I'll be violating the
"grip length rules" (unthreaded bolt shank will not go all the way through
the parts I'm bolting). Anyone remember having this problem? Did you use the
-6A bolt or.... the -7A and live with the close clearances? How critical is
it to adhere to the "grip length" rules?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
If I'd quit running into crazy crap like this I'd be done now!!!


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Doug Gray



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 112
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:31 am    Post subject: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank Reply with quote

On Sun, 2007-10-28 at 03:41 -0400, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
Quote:
The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and
the
bellcrank is centered between them.


Yes I remember this well and solved it at the time I built the wings.
The clearance was so small I feared that even with a modest wing loads
it may interfere and lock the ailerons!

I was told the popular solution is to go for the shorter bolt and thin
nut. Perhaps a castle nut with split-pin may be better.

My fix was to remake the spacers so the bellcrank is no longer centered
but offset sufficiently to allow the bolt to clear the support angle.

Doug Gray


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jeffpoint



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 72
Location: MKE

PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 8:02 am    Post subject: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank Reply with quote

If the grip length is a concern, try this: Use the correct length bolt,
with a thin washer under the nut. Put a combination of thick/ thin
washers under the bolt head (up to 3) that will give you just enough
thread showing on the nut. You should have plenty of clearance for the
bolt head, so raising it up a bit won't hurt.

Or, you could use a thin locknut.

Jeff Point
RV-6 flying
RV-8 building
Milwaukee
Quote:



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Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
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acepilot(at)bloomer.net
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 8:17 am    Post subject: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank Reply with quote

Would this problem apply to an RV-4 as well? I just picked up a
second-hand wing kit and I'm curious if I will have the same concerns at
that time when I get them built...

Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)

Jeff Point wrote:

Quote:


If the grip length is a concern, try this: Use the correct length
bolt, with a thin washer under the nut. Put a combination of thick/
thin washers under the bolt head (up to 3) that will give you just
enough thread showing on the nut. You should have plenty of clearance
for the bolt head, so raising it up a bit won't hurt.

Or, you could use a thin locknut.

Jeff Point
RV-6 flying
RV-8 building
Milwaukee
>



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Jerry Cochran



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 111
Location: Wilsonville, OR

PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 10:14 am    Post subject: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank Reply with quote

Dean,

Greetings from your old stomping grounds in (currently) sunny Oregon... Wish you'd have posted this yesterday when my wing ports were off, but here goes. I don't recall that fuss with my bellcranks, but then again, memory ain't so good, too much alum dust I guess...

If you;re worried about the 1/16" clearance, try flexing the bellcrank by hand sideways and see if you can make it hang up. If everything is snugged up so there is no slop, I can't see you having a problem. Hard to imagine flight loads severe enough to deflect the B-crank that much, and if so, can't see it getting stuck in that kind of position. If I go to hangar next couple days I'll take one of my ports off and see what I did. I'd stick with whatever bolt lets you see at least one thread past the nut and keeps the proper shank length. I have some thin AN3 stop nuts if you need a couple. You can also use high temp, smaller stop nuts in that situation. I've done that a couple times when clearance or access was an issue...

HTH & YMMV...

Regards,
Jerry Cochran


In a message dated 10/28/2007 12:00:08 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
Quote:
Time: 11:42:39 PM PST US
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank
All ye RV-6/6A builders:

Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel. 

The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and the
bellcrank is centered between them. Van's old plans call for an AN3-10A
bolt, thick washer and stop nut but that's obviously wrong.  I checked my
rail spacing just to be sure and yes I built them to the plans. So...I
switched the bolt to an AN3-7 and with the thick washer and stop nut there
is 2-3 threads sticking out of the stop nut. The bellcrank rotates freely
but looking at the clearance between the end of the bolt and the bottom rail
I would guess about 1/16 of an inch is all I have.

This makes me nervous, the bellcrank mounting rails are 1/8 inch thick and
that area is pretty stout but, the rod ends mount into the outer ends of the
bellcrank itself (two pieces of 1/16 plate spaced apart by thick AN3 bolt
washers in 4 places plus the center bearing mount acting as a spacer). If
there is much flexing in the outer ends of the bellcrank in flight then it
might be possible for the bolt end to come in contact with the mounting rail
and ruin my day (life).

I looked at going to an AN3-6A bolt but it doesn't look like there will be
ANY threads sticking out of the stop nut when it's tightend (if I'm lucky
and use a thin washer, I might get the threads to edge of the nylon in the
end of the stop nut). Also if I used the -6A bolt I'll be violating the
"grip length rules" (unthreaded bolt shank will not go all the way through
the parts I'm bolting). Anyone remember having this problem? Did you use the
-6A bolt or.... the -7A and live with the close clearances? How critical is
it to adhere to the "grip length" rules?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
If I'd quit running into crazy crap like this I'd be done now!!!




See what's new [quote][b]


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stevea(at)svpal.org
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 2:21 pm    Post subject: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank Reply with quote

Make a new set of bellcrank spacers to provide clearance for the AN3-10A
bolt between the mounting angles.

Steve
RV-6A
built two sets of spacers myself........the first set per plans, and the
second set to provide bolt clearance...............doesn't everyone do
this? Smile
Quote:


All ye RV-6/6A builders:

Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel. ....................


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kboatright1(at)comcast.ne
Guest





PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 4:16 pm    Post subject: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank Reply with quote

For years, I thought this was unique to my plane...

KB

---


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capsteve



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 111
Location: NIAGARA FALLS NY

PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 8:42 pm    Post subject: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank Reply with quote

Dean,
I think the general consensus was to offset the bell crank a bit to create a
more comfortable clearance. If memory serves, I think I ground down one
spacer and added thin washers to the opposite side rather than make new
spacers from scratch.
Steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
capsteve(at)adelphia.net

All ye RV-6/6A builders:

Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel.

The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and the
bellcrank is centered between them. Van's old plans call for an AN3-10A
bolt, thick washer and stop nut but that's obviously wrong. I checked my
rail spacing just to be sure and yes I built them to the plans. So...I
switched the bolt to an AN3-7 and with the thick washer and stop nut there
is 2-3 threads sticking out of the stop nut. The bellcrank rotates freely
but looking at the clearance between the end of the bolt and the bottom rail
I would guess about 1/16 of an inch is all I have.

This makes me nervous, the bellcrank mounting rails are 1/8 inch thick and
that area is pretty stout but, the rod ends mount into the outer ends of the
bellcrank itself (two pieces of 1/16 plate spaced apart by thick AN3 bolt
washers in 4 places plus the center bearing mount acting as a spacer). If
there is much flexing in the outer ends of the bellcrank in flight then it
might be possible for the bolt end to come in contact with the mounting rail
and ruin my day (life).

I looked at going to an AN3-6A bolt but it doesn't look like there will be
ANY threads sticking out of the stop nut when it's tightend (if I'm lucky
and use a thin washer, I might get the threads to edge of the nylon in the
end of the stop nut). Also if I used the -6A bolt I'll be violating the
"grip length rules" (unthreaded bolt shank will not go all the way through
the parts I'm bolting). Anyone remember having this problem? Did you use the
-6A bolt or.... the -7A and live with the close clearances? How critical is
it to adhere to the "grip length" rules?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
If I'd quit running into crazy crap like this I'd be done now!!!


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HCRV6(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 10:36 am    Post subject: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank Reply with quote

Dean,

I remember the problem well. I offset the bellcrank slightly by modifying the spacers and using a thin washer and a thin stop nut ( I'm at home and can't recall the PN but they are in the Spruce catalog). Then ground a couple of threads of the bolt and wound up with about 1/8 in. clearance. So far seems to work out O.K.

--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 412 hours

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Quote:


Dean,
I think the general consensus was to offset the bell crank a bit to create a
more comfortable clearance. If memory serves, I think I ground down one
spacer and added thin washers to the opposite side rather than make new
spacers from scratch.


Steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
capsteve(at)adelphia.net





All ye RV-6/6A builders:

Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel.

The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and the
bellcrank is centered between them. Van's old plans call for an AN3-10A
bolt, thick washer and stop nut but that's obviously wrong. I checked my
rail spacing just to be sure and yes I built them to the plans. So...I
switched the bolt to an AN3-7 and with the thick washer and stop nut there
is 2-3 threads sticking out of the stop nut. The bellcrank rotates freely
but looking at the clearance between the end of the bolt and the bottom rail
I would guess about 1/16 of an inch is all I have.

This makes me nervous, the bellcrank mounting rails are 1/8 inch thick and
that area is pretty stout but, the rod ends mount into the outer ends of the
bellcrank itself (two pieces of 1/16 plate spaced apart by thick AN3 bolt
washers in 4 places plus the center bearing mount acting as a spacer). If
there is much flexing in the outer ends of the bellcrank in flight then it
might be possible for the bolt end to come in contact with the mounting rail
and ruin my day (life).

I looked at going to an AN3-6A bolt but it doesn't look like there will be
ANY threads sticking out of the stop nut when it's tightend (if I'm lucky
and use a thin washer, I might get the threads to edge of the nylon in the
end of the stop nut). Also if I used the -6A bolt I'll be violating the
"grip length rules" (unthreaded bolt shank will not go all the way through
the parts I'm bolting). Anyone remember having this problem? Did you use the
-6A bolt or.... the -7A and live with the close clearances? How critical is
it to adhere to the "grip length" rules?


Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
If I'd quit running into crazy crap like this I'd be done now!!!









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