llsbiii3(at)netzero.net
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 Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:22 am Post subject: paint blasting and stripping |
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For stripping I used <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
PR-3133 Alkaline-activated Benzyl Alcohol Stripper (smells of ammonia)
http://www.eldoradochem.com/
And
D-Zolve 15-33LO-R (mild smell)
http://solventkleene.com/strip.htm
I received a sample from.
http://www.m-tc.com/paint_stripper/aircraft_paint_stripper.htm
And Henkle Industries (Locktite) but they were not interested in dealing with an individual consumer. Each of the chemicals worked similarly with little difference between then, all were effective. The Benzyl Alcohol based stripper is less hazardous the methyl-chloride strippers, but if left on bare skin could cause chemical burns. Eldora do Chemical has a good de-paint article. Do not use auto parts aircraft stripper. Hydrogen embrittlement - that is the top and bottom of the spar you see in the wing. I looked for strippers with a Boeing, Douglas, etc. approval.
My first test was on the wing tips, I have the original round metal tips. We did this on a warm rainy day in the summer. The old paint turned to jelly, and was easily scraped off. A few days later when it was quite dry we applied to other areas. This was a mess it dried out and was then harder to remove.
The most successful method was to apply the stripper and then spray with water from a hand kitchen type spray pump and cover with industrial polyethylene cling wrap from Lowes. When it appears soft, use a brush with a stiff plastic scrub brush, as would be used in a commode. Then reapply more strippers. Scrub again then remove with a squeegee, and scrub with a maroon scotch brite pad, and then wash. I finally bought a 2000 psi portable spray washer to remove the remaining residue, much improved.
What paint that is left is primarily on the bottom surfaces. I used a Wagner electric spray painter, but the stripper ruined the painter. I used a total of 10 gallons. I could now do it with less stripper by using plastic wrap and water, and stripping small areas at a time.
Painting: so far I have painted the ruddrvators and ailerons with Sherwin Williams Jet Glo. I recommend finding someone willing to balance the control surfaces before starting. I finally got John of Idaho State A&P School to commit to balancing the surfaces once the shop A&P removed the surfaces. The parts book numbers and illustrations did not match the weights that I found in the ruddervator, and Beech parts in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Wichita were NOT helpful. Luckily, I did not change the weight, even though I had to paint the ruddervator twice to get the results I wanted. All painting mistakes can be fixed, although it may require sanding the offending mistakes.
Preparation for paint is the biggest part of painting. The actual paint time is small in relation to the paint application. I have not decided if I will do the painting my self or get a body shop guy by the hour. I have difficulty with vertical surfaces with runs and sages.
I have some mag-prep left over.
I did marry my girlfriend that helped me strip the plane. She is a V-tailed stripper!!!
Currently, I am polishing the top of the plane until I finish stripping the remaining residue on the bottom. I may attempt to sell it before painting and finish building the RV.
Anyone have knowledge of paint removal by blasting?
Thanks Sherman
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