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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:13 pm Post subject: dreaded oil canning lessened |
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Tonight I re rivetted the bottom skin all the way to but not including the last the ribs. I never had a problem aft of the J channel, the skin was tight.
I did as suggested and removed about 1/32" to 1/16" off the edge where the seem is joining the LE skin. This time I hop scotched each rivet, jumping from rib to rib, one horizontal row at a time. I basically numberred each vertical row of holes with the order I would rivet them in, doing my best to cancel each rib's spring loaded force out. Because of the access panels and our ability to get inside the wing, rib flanges are turned out board or in board in pairs. I never rivetted a pair together.
It seemed to have helped but I am hoping that after I rivet the remaining three out board ribs it will be even tighter as Ron suggested his did.
One thing for certain, I wish I was as proficient at rivetting on the rear spar area, where I started as I am now. Got a few blemishes up in those areas.
The small square faced bucking bar worked best with some heave plumbers tape wrapped a lot of times, overhanging the the square face by about1/8". This helps soften the blows form any miss alignment hits, no internal dammage and it also helps sensory issue of finding your rivet and the center of the bucking bar face. Lastly, you can push the face of the bucking bar flat agains the face of the interior skin and your rivet is less likey to come completely out. This make keeping the face of the BB parallel to the inside skin easier. Tonight I learned how to push the rivet back and forth between the bucking bar face and the flush set on the gun and get a real good feel for the pressure needed and the center of the bar face by how it rocks on the rivet. Interesting little tid bit of info.
The plumbers tape is the real trick
JOhn G
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dlm46007(at)cox.net
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| Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 5:22 am Post subject: dreaded oil canning lessened |
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I don't know of the plumbers tape but I have found that the following tape is excellent for holding rivets in place, holding small pieces of baffling material to the bucking bars and general composite work. It does not leave a residue and does not stick to fiberglass resin/epoxy. http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_6090.asp?pricode=wi830&wcw=google
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 10:12 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: dreaded oil canning lessened
Tonight I re rivetted the bottom skin all the way to but not including the last the ribs. I never had a problem aft of the J channel, the skin was tight.
I did as suggested and removed about 1/32" to 1/16" off the edge where the seem is joining the LE skin. This time I hop scotched each rivet, jumping from rib to rib, one horizontal row at a time. I basically numberred each vertical row of holes with the order I would rivet them in, doing my best to cancel each rib's spring loaded force out. Because of the access panels and our ability to get inside the wing, rib flanges are turned out board or in board in pairs. I never rivetted a pair together.
It seemed to have helped but I am hoping that after I rivet the remaining three out board ribs it will be even tighter as Ron suggested his did.
One thing for certain, I wish I was as proficient at rivetting on the rear spar area, where I started as I am now. Got a few blemishes up in those areas.
The small square faced bucking bar worked best with some heave plumbers tape wrapped a lot of times, overhanging the the square face by about1/8". This helps soften the blows form any miss alignment hits, no internal dammage and it also helps sensory issue of finding your rivet and the center of the bucking bar face. Lastly, you can push the face of the bucking bar flat agains the face of the interior skin and your rivet is less likey to come completely out. This make keeping the face of the BB parallel to the inside skin easier. Tonight I learned how to push the rivet back and forth between the bucking bar face and the flush set on the gun and get a real good feel for the pressure needed and the center of the bar face by how it rocks on the rivet. Interesting little tid bit of info.
The plumbers tape is the real trick
JOhn G
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