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PatrickW
Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 380
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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 Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:29 pm Post subject: 601XL - Riveting HT Attachment Brackets |
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Is there any advantage to NOT riveting the HT Attachment Brackets (6B1-8 and 6B1-9) at the same time that the rest of the lower rear fuselage is riveted...?
I'm roughly done with 6-B-4 (lower rear fuselage assembly) and am wondering if any of you guys who are further along found it best to rivet the HT Attachment Brackets at this time, or if it's better to be able to remove them later in the process (like when you are fitting the horizontal stabilizer).
Thanks,
Patrick
XL/Corvair
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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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| Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:43 pm Post subject: 601XL - Riveting HT Attachment Brackets |
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Some report that they can fit the horizontal stabilizer with all the
brackets and the top rear skin in place and some find they can't. The
quick-build kits come with one of the forward brackets uninstalled.
-- Craig
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dredmoody(at)cox.net
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| Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:58 am Post subject: 601XL - Riveting HT Attachment Brackets |
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Here's my two cents worth. Simply make sure that you are through deburing, corrosion-proofing the mating surfaces (if you are doing so) and that you are likewise finished with any and all prep work involving the upper rear longerons. Once you are satisfied with all the involved structures you can rivet to your heart's content. That being said, while I find rivetting to be a very gratifying experience (ie:"There.... it's done!"), it is also a fairly quick, no-sweat process that can be done at any time you please.
My point is, unless you are short of clecos and are on a budget that prohibits buying some more (which can be resold later) why rush? Another caveat is that whenever you do decide that it is definitely time to rivet anything (this is particularly true anywhere that the longerons are involved) make sure that you have all the available parts assembled and jigged up in their proper relative positions because you know full well (or you should) that all your carefully drilled holes with clecos in them can allow and tolerate a lot of slop or shifting that you definitely don't want in the final rivetted product.
As for fitting the H-stab....... there are a lot of different approaches out there for you to choose from but for me, it seemed that the only solution was to make a removable piece of aluminum skin to bridge from the fiberglass rudder fairing to the shortened aft edge of the rear top skin. Unless I shortened the aft edge of the rear top skin, I could not get the H-stab in place because the angle of the brackets require my H-stab to drop in place almost vertically. With the aft edge of the rear top skin trimmed to allow for that, the fiberglass rudder fairing is not long enough at its forward edge to bridge the gap. I would strongly urge the factory to begin making that fiberglass fairing much longer at its front end to allow the builder to trim it to fit without the need for an extra piece of aluminum. Other opinions will of course vary.
Hope I didn't rain on the parade here but the truth shall set you free and all that,
Dred
[quote] ---
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planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
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| Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:25 pm Post subject: 601XL - Riveting HT Attachment Brackets |
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..and remember that if you are using Clecos in every other hole to allow further progress without commitment, that they hold position considerably better if you alternate the orientation of the center blade (90°, 0°, 90°, 0°, ...)...
Another way to do it even on ebetter is to never go to the nunmber drill/reamer during assembly. The Clecos fit much tighter in the fraction holes. Then once all details have been drilled to nominal fractional size and deburred (can make a big difference on stacks that traverse contours!), go back and start reaming to numbered size one hole/Cleco at a time. Disassemble, final deburr (will be very minor), re-assemble with Clecos and replace the Clecos one at a time with rivets. Results in very smooth contoured joints with minimal puckering if there are any slight differences.
Edward Moody II <dredmoody(at)cox.net> wrote:[quote] Here's my two cents worth. Simply make sure that you are through deburing, corrosion-proofing the mating surfaces (if you are doing so) and that you are likewise finished with any and all prep work involving the upper rear longerons. Once you are satisfied with all the involved structures you can rivet to your heart's content. That being said, while I find rivetting to be a very gratifying experience (ie:"There.... it's done!"), it is also a fairly quick, no-sweat process that can be done at any time you please.
My point is, unless you are short of clecos and are on a budget that prohibits buying some more (which can be resold later) why rush? Another caveat is that whenever you do decide that it is definitely time to rivet anything (this is particularly true anywhere that the longerons are involved) make sure that you have all the available parts assembled and jigged up in their proper relative positions because you know full well (or you should) that all your carefully drilled holes with clecos in them can allow and tolerate a lot of slop or shifting that you definitely don't want in the final rivetted product.
As for fitting the H-stab....... there are a lot of different approaches out there for you to choose from but for me, it seemed that the only solution was to make a removable piece of aluminum skin to bridge from the fiberglass rudder fairing to the shortened aft edge of the rear top skin. Unless I shortened the aft edge of the rear top skin, I could not get the H-stab in place because the angle of the brackets require my H-stab to drop in place almost vertically. With the aft edge of the rear top skin trimmed to allow for that, the fiberglass rudder fairing is not long enough at its forward edge to bridge the gap. I would strongly urge the factory to begin making that fiberglass fairing much longer at its front end to allow the builder to trim it to fit without the need for an extra piece of aluminum. Other opinions will of course vary.
Hope I didn't rain on the parade here but the truth shall set you free and all that,
Dred
[quote] ---
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staufferm
Joined: 16 Dec 2007
Posts: 34
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| Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 6:02 am Post subject: Re: 601XL - Riveting HT Attachment Brackets |
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Patrick,
I would not rivet the HS brackets at this time. I always have to remove one or two to put the HS in place when the upper rear skin is in place. After I fit the saddle and trim the rear top skin more it may not be an issue.
Have a great day!
Mark
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