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Jugle
Joined: 04 Aug 2007
Posts: 47
Location: Victoria, Australia
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 Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:34 pm Post subject: Rib forming questions |
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Hope you scratch builders out there can help.
Firstly, those joggles again... I have cutouts in the form blocks for them, but if I hammer them down while in the form blocks, the step created by the joggle tends to push material outwards, thus flattening and reducing the radius of the flange in that area. Please see attached images.
The Construction Standards say no radius smaller than 1.5mm, so I may be okay here, what do you think?
Also, one joggle I made was too long. Is it acceptable to flatten it out and re-do it, or is this too much panel beating for 6061-T6? Do I need to make the rib again?
Next, on the Scratchbuilding Basics DVD, David demonstrates trimming some metal off the ends of the flanges where they touch in the corners... how much clearance should there be in those corners?
And lastly, I've watched the Homebuilt Help DVDs umpteen times... very good by the way... the method Mark uses for removing bows in the ribs, by tweaking the crimps works well when the middle of the rib is high when placed on a flat surface, but what about when the ends are high? I have been putting them back in the form blocks and running along the flange again with a mallet, but it is a bit time consuming. Is there another way?
Thanks for any suggestions,
Glenn
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_________________
Glenn Andressen
601XL- Rudder, Stabiliser parts completed, Wing ribs, nose ribs done, 70% Fuselage parts made. |
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gboothe5(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 6:21 am Post subject: Rib forming questions |
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Glenn,
The roll-out at your joggle doesn't appear to be bad at all. In the future,
you might consider a tighter clamp at that exact area when you form the
joggle.
The length of the joggle is not critical if it does not interfere with the
placement of a rivet. If it does interfere with a rivet, there may be
options, but re-bending the aluminum is not preferred. Too much bending
'work hardens' the aluminum, creating a possible crack.
The clearance referred to should be good at 1-2mm. The important thing is
that the rib flange does not touch the spar flange, and there is not so much
gap that you lose your edge clearance on your last rivet.
If the ends are high on your ribs, just put a large dowel under the rib
(like a closet hanger rod) and roll the rib back and forth with gentle
pressure. The rib will flatten out very easily.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
--
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lrm(at)skyhawg.com
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| Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:41 am Post subject: Rib forming questions |
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I am sorta scratch building my second 701. Wings and tail are kit, the rest
I will scratch build. I did have to build a few ribs to make my long wing
extension. I used a friends forming blocks and found the same problem you
are having. I don't think it really mattered but I didn't like it. Then I
remembered that on the PegaStol ribs, they had drilled a hole where the bend
would be at every dimple. I did it on my new ribs and it fixed the problem.
You can sorta see the holes on one of the pictures on this page on my site.
http://www.skyhawg.com/ribs.html It might be worth trying.
LRM www.skyhawg.com
---
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davids601xl(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:10 am Post subject: Rib forming questions |
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Hi Glenn.
Gary is bang on with his advice re: the clearance of
the flange.
Gary: I loved your idea of using the dowel. I have
never tried that method but sure will next time.
David
--- Gary Boothe <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> wrote:
| Quote: | The clearance referred to should be good at 1-2mm.
The important thing is
that the rib flange does not touch the spar flange,
and there is not so much
gap that you lose your edge clearance on your last
rivet.
If the ends are high on your ribs, just put a large
dowel under the rib
(like a closet hanger rod) and roll the rib back and
forth with gentle
pressure. The rib will flatten out very easily.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
|
David Barth
601 XL Plansbuilder 15% done?
Working on Wings
www.ch601.org
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
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Jugle
Joined: 04 Aug 2007
Posts: 47
Location: Victoria, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 2:58 pm Post subject: Re: Rib forming questions |
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Thanks for those of you who responded to this post. I contacted Zenith and showed them photos, Nick confirmed all is okay.
Gary, your idea of using the dowell is a good one and thanks for your other tips.
Glenn
| gboothe5(at)comcast.net wrote: | Glenn,
The roll-out at your joggle doesn't appear to be bad at all. In the future,
you might consider a tighter clamp at that exact area when you form the
joggle.
The length of the joggle is not critical if it does not interfere with the
placement of a rivet. If it does interfere with a rivet, there may be
options, but re-bending the aluminum is not preferred. Too much bending
'work hardens' the aluminum, creating a possible crack.
The clearance referred to should be good at 1-2mm. The important thing is
that the rib flange does not touch the spar flange, and there is not so much
gap that you lose your edge clearance on your last rivet.
If the ends are high on your ribs, just put a large dowel under the rib
(like a closet hanger rod) and roll the rib back and forth with gentle
pressure. The rib will flatten out very easily.
-- |
| | - The Matronics Zenith-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List |
|
_________________
Glenn Andressen
601XL- Rudder, Stabiliser parts completed, Wing ribs, nose ribs done, 70% Fuselage parts made. |
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