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Painting the cabin

 
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bradfnp(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 6:59 pm    Post subject: Painting the cabin Reply with quote

I am working on the cabin floor and wing center section. I am assuming that
now (or very soon) would be the best time to pain the interior of the
cockpit. I have a pretty good idea of my color choices but my question is
more of a "how-to". how do I prep, prime and paint the cockpit?
I am using the cortec primer that came with the kit (instead of Zinc
Chromate) so I assume the painting system is a personal choice (such as
Randolph, poly-tone, etc.)

Prep with 3M pads then clean with MEK, but beyond that.....what? Do I use a
premixed system such as polytone? or enamel with a reducer (whatever the
hell that is), such as randolph?

Any suggestions?

Brad Cohen
XL/TD slow-build kit


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GLJSOJ1



Joined: 18 Aug 2007
Posts: 82
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 5:42 am    Post subject: Re: Painting the cabin Reply with quote

Hi Brad

I used Zinc Chromate on mine, cleaned it with Lacquer thinner and used a scotch bright pad to rough it up. Every place that I used this approach the paint (Krylon Sandstone Texture) is staying on fine. Any place where I didn't get the zinc on good, it rubs right off. I did the parts before I riveted it together for the most part, but some was done after it was all done.


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601XL N676L FLYING PHASE I
CHESAPEAKE VA
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dredmoody(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 6:37 am    Post subject: Painting the cabin Reply with quote

Likewise I elected to clean, prime, and paint every interior surface when it was completely ready to rivet in place so that the subsequent assembly would be done with parts that needed no further painting. It is much easier to do a good job on a piece of metal lying on a sawhorse rather than after it is rivetted inside a confined cabin.

I used laquer thinner to clean the surface, then primed with Rustoleum Automotive self etching primer from rattle cans. The top coat is the compatible Rustoleum Automotive color coat also from rattle cans. No sctochbrite scuffing and so far very good adhesion. I figure if the microscopic grip of ecthing the metal surface isn't strong enough to hold the paint, a bunch of shallow scratches aren't going to help very much. On top of that, if you use the wrong color scotchbrite you will certainly crash and burn.

Dred


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n85ae



Joined: 14 Mar 2007
Posts: 403

PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:22 am    Post subject: Re: Painting the cabin Reply with quote

I would forgo the cortec in the cockpit area as it is not very durable. System
three makes a 2-part waterborne epoxy primer, and a 2-part polyurethane
paint system. It is a bunch tougher than cortec. It is used a lot in the marine
industry.

go to http://www.systemthree.com and look up wr-155 primer, and wr-lpu
polyurethane.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com sells it as well

Regards,
Jeff


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n85ae



Joined: 14 Mar 2007
Posts: 403

PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:30 am    Post subject: Re: Painting the cabin Reply with quote

One other thing, prep the paint areas with 400 grit silicon carbide sandpaper
and the paint will stick a LOT better. Scothbrite works fine for cleaning, but
won't do anything for helping the paint stick since it need some tooth. A
phosphoric acid etch is best, but difficult to do in the cockpit assemblies
as post etch washing would be difficult.

You can use alchohol for cleaning if you're enviro conscious, or better use
MEK when the eco-police (wife) isn't looking.

I experimented a lot with Cortec, and it will not sustain a duct tape peel
test, unless you do a VERY thorough pre-priming prep job. ... So unless you want your cockpit full of peeling paint I would not
use Cortec.

Regards,
Jeff


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rjscep(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:14 am    Post subject: Painting the cabin Reply with quote

Quote:
Sherwin-Williams has a self etching primer spray.
I would also use the Aluminum etch too and wash it
off thouroly, I find that works well....do not
archive
--- Brad Cohen <bradfnp(at)msn.com> wrote:


Quote:

<bradfnp(at)msn.com>

I am working on the cabin floor and wing center
section. I am assuming that
now (or very soon) would be the best time to pain
the interior of the
cockpit. I have a pretty good idea of my color
choices but my question is
more of a "how-to". how do I prep, prime and paint
the cockpit?
I am using the cortec primer that came with the kit
(instead of Zinc
Chromate) so I assume the painting system is a
personal choice (such as
Randolph, poly-tone, etc.)

Prep with 3M pads then clean with MEK, but beyond
that.....what? Do I use a
premixed system such as polytone? or enamel with a
reducer (whatever the
hell that is), such as randolph?

Any suggestions?

Brad Cohen
XL/TD slow-build kit




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eldenej(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:42 am    Post subject: Painting the cabin Reply with quote

And what is the correct color?

Elden J.
xl/3300

dredmoody(at)cox.net wrote:
[quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by:

Likewise I elected to clean, prime, and paint every interior surface when it was completely ready to rivet in place so that the subsequent assembly would be done with parts that needed no further painting. It is much easier to do a good job on a piece of metal lying on a sawhorse rather than after it is rivetted inside a confined cabin.

I used laquer thinner to clean the surface, then primed with Rustoleum Automotive self etching primer from rattle cans. The top coat is the compatible Rustoleum Automotive color coat also from rattle cans. No sctochbrite scuffing and so far very good adhesion. I figure if the microscopic grip of ecthing the metal surface Be a better friend, newshound, and [quote][b]


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dredmoody(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 11:02 am    Post subject: Painting the cabin Reply with quote

Legend has it that if you use green scotchbrite on your aluminum all your children will be born naked.

Dred

---- Elden Jacobson <eldenej(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
Quote:
And what is the correct color?

Elden J.
xl/3300

dredmoody(at)cox.net wrote:


Likewise I elected to clean, prime, and paint every interior surface when it was completely ready to rivet in place so that the subsequent assembly would be done with parts that needed no further painting. It is much easier to do a good job on a piece of metal lying on a sawhorse rather than after it is rivetted inside a confined cabin.

I used laquer thinner to clean the surface, then primed with Rustoleum Automotive self etching primer from rattle cans. The top coat is the compatible Rustoleum Automotive color coat also from rattle cans. No sctochbrite scuffing and so far very good adhesion. I figure if the microscopic grip of ecthing the metal surface isn't strong enough to hold the paint, a bunch of shallow scratches aren't going to help very much. On top of that, if you use the wrong color scotchbrite you will certainly crash and burn.

Dred







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