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Hole Flanging
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rlalonde

Joined: 20 Nov 2006
Posts: 43

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:34 pm Post subject: Hole Flanging

I just finished doing the flanging on the lightening holes on the wing and nose ribs. My dies were made of hardwood.

 How much strength are the hole flanges designed for, if any. It seems like the wing ribs are still a bit flimsy. Is there a way to tell if the flanges are made ok. 

 I really didnt want to make the flanges to big and stress the aluminum in any way. Is there a possibility that my flanges arent (bent/flanged enough) and do not provide the required strenght.??

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ron

Ron Lendon

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:10 pm Post subject: Re: Hole Flanging

If the material, angle, flange length and hole diameter are correct, ya made em right.  When the skin gets riveted to them it all gets real strong.

_________________
Ron Lendon
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
CH 601 XLB
N601LT - Flying
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Corvair Engine Prints:
https://sites.google.com/site/corvairenginedata/

sky_ranger161

Joined: 07 Jun 2006
Posts: 91

Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:36 am Post subject: Hole Flanging

Hey Ron!



In the Zenith Construction Standards Manual that you can download as a PDF file from the "Builders" section of the Zenith web site, there's a section that gives acceptable standards of what a good flange should look like. I found it helpful - sounds like what you may be looking for too. Good luck!



Debo Cox

Nags Head, NC

XL/Corvair

www.mykitlog.com/debo



do not archive

 [quote][b]

bill_dom(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:48 am Post subject: Hole Flanging

My dies are also made of wood and after I use them, I have to do a little more work to get it right. In my experience, after using the die, the rib web gets bowed inward, as you can see in this picture:



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577591804484914



Scott Laughlin gave me an idea that lead me to do this:



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577600394419522



I used the improvised tool in the picture to bend the flange a bit further down until the rib web get straight and it worked well: 



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577613279321426



The good news is that it no only got straight but the web feels stronger too, oil canning effect was reduced to almost nothing.



William Dominguez

Zodiac 601XL Plans

Miami Florida

http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom/



rlalonde <rlalonde(at)HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:[quote][b]

Ron Lendon

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI

Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 6:04 am Post subject: Re: Hole Flanging

I had the same crowning issue on the rear ribs and followed Scott's lead and just added L-angles to all the rear ribs.



http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=1683&log=20273&row=253

rlalonde

Joined: 20 Nov 2006
Posts: 43

Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:13 pm Post subject: Hole Flanging

Thanks William and Debo for your replies.

 Debo, I looked up the construction sheet for the dies and brought it to a machinist today. 

 William, I used the flanging dies made of wood and I experienced the same problem as you did.

 The rib webs were bowed. I however had another problem in that my flanges were not as wide as they should have been...I think I should have used a press instead of hammering on them. The seemed uneven and not centered perfectly.

  

  Anyways, I think that I am going to have a set of steel dies made, redo the flanges by repeating the  process.  Hopefull will be perfectly "pressed" this time with a stronger die being used. If I run into the bowed problem even after this is done, I will use the "hardwood stick" that Scott suggested.

  Thanks again guys for your help. I sure do not want to have to redo a new set of wing ribs, as you well know, this is a heck of a lot of work!!!

 Thanks again, your help is much appreciated.

  

 Ron Lalonde

 601XL, Plans 6510

 Tail completed, working on wings

 Nova Scotia, Canada





  	  Quote: 	
		    Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 05:45:11 -0800

From: bill_dom(at)yahoo.com

Subject: Re: Hole Flanging

To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com



My dies are also made of wood and after I use them, I have to do a little more work to get it right. In my experience, after using the die, the rib web gets bowed inward, as you can see in this picture:



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577591804484914



Scott Laughlin gave me an idea that lead me to do this:



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577600394419522



I used the improvised tool in the picture to bend the flange a bit further down until the rib web get straight and it worked well: 



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577613279321426



The good news is that it no only got straight but the web feels stronger too, oil canning effect was reduced to almost nothing.



William Dominguez

Zodiac 601XL Plans

Miami Florida

http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom/



rlalonde <rlalonde(at)HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:  ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/co================ [/b] 	  Quote: 	
		  	
	
[/quote]   [quote][b]

rlalonde

Joined: 20 Nov 2006
Posts: 43

Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:20 am Post subject: Hole Flanging

Just got back from the local machinists place. Just to have the two larger dies made (95mm and 115mm), will be

 110 dollars EACH!

 Certainly not able to go that route. Will have to watch the list and see where those metal dies that are floating around (that can be used for the cost of shipping.) Still be a lot cheaper to pay shipping to Nova Scotia, Canada, then to have them manufactured here. Now just to locate them!!

  

 Sure wish I was related to a machinist...LOL

  

 (The idea of installing L brackets to solve the bowing problem sounds good as well)

  

 Ron

 



 

  	  Quote: 	
		    From: rlalonde(at)HOTMAIL.COM

To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: RE: Hole Flanging

Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 23:08:53 -0400



   .ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P {padding:0px;} .ExternalClass EC_body.hmmessage {font-size:10pt;font-family:Tahoma;}  Thanks William and Debo for your replies.

Debo, I looked up the construction sheet for the dies and brought it to a machinist today. 

William, I used the flanging dies made of wood and I experienced the same problem as you did.

The rib webs were bowed. I however had another problem in that my flanges were not as wide as they should have been...I think I should have used a press instead of hammering on them. The seemed uneven and not centered perfectly.

 

 Anyways, I think that I am going to have a set of steel dies made, redo the flanges by repeating the  process. Hopefull will be perfectly "pressed" this time with a stronger die being used. If I run into the bowed problem even after this is done, I will use the "hardwood stick" that Scott suggested.

 Thanks again guys for your help. I sure do not want to have to redo a new set of wing ribs, as you well know, this is a heck of a lot of work!!!

Thanks again, your help is much appreciated.

 

Ron Lalonde

601XL, Plans 6520

Tail completed, working on wings

Nova Scotia, Canada





  	  Quote: 	
		    Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 05:45:11 -0800

From: bill_dom(at)yahoo.com

Subject: Re: Hole Flanging

To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com



My dies are also made of wood and after I use them, I have to do a little more work to get it right. In my experience, after using the die, the rib web gets bowed inward, as you can see in this picture:



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577591804484914



Scott Laughlin gave me an idea that lead me to do this:



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577600394419522



I used the improvised tool in the picture to bend the flange a bit further down until the rib web get straight and it worked well: 



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577613279321426



The good news is that it no only got straight but the web feels stronger too, oil canning effect was reduced to almost nothing.



William Dominguez

Zodiac 601XL Plans

Miami Florida

http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom/



rlalonde <rlalonde(at)HOTMAIL.COM> wrote: ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/co================ [/b] 	  Quote: 	
		  	
	
	


  [url=http:///][/url] 	  Quote: 	
		  



arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List

p://forums.matronics.com

blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution

bill_dom(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 11:51 am Post subject: Hole Flanging

If you are hammering them that could be your problem. I use a vise and 3 C clamps: 



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577557444746498



Here is how my wooden dies look like:



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577544559844594



Because of the compressibility of wood, wooden dies need to have the pressure applied uniformly. A hammer wont guarantee that. You can give a try to your hardwood dies using a vise and clams and see what happens.



William Dominguez

Zodiac 601XL Plans

Miami Florida

http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom/



Ron Lalonde <rlalonde(at)HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:[quote]    .hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma }   

 Just got back from the local machinists place. Just to have the two larger  dies made (95mm and 115mm), will be

 110 dollars EACH!

 Certainly not able to go that route. Will have to watch the list and see where those metal dies that are floating around (that can be used for the cost of shipping.) Still be a lot cheaper to pay shipping to Nova Scotia, Canada, then to have them manufactured here. Now just to locate them!!

  

 Sure wish I was related to a machinist...LOL

  

 (The idea of installing L brackets to solve the bowing problem sounds good as well)

  

 Ron

 



 

 [quote]  From: rlalonde(at)HOTMAIL.COM

To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: RE: Hole Flanging

Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 23:08:53 -0400



   .ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P {padding:0px;} .ExternalClass EC_body.hmmessage {font-size:10pt;font-family:Tahoma;}  Thanks William and Debo for your  replies.

Debo, I looked up the construction sheet for the dies and brought it to a machinist today. 

William, I used the flanging dies made of wood and I experienced the same problem as you did.

The rib webs were bowed. I however had another problem in that my flanges were not as wide as they should have been...I think I should have used a press instead of hammering on them. The seemed uneven and not centered perfectly.

 

 Anyways, I think that I am going to have a set of steel dies made, redo the flanges by repeating the  process. Hopefull will be perfectly "pressed" this time with a stronger die being used. If I run into the bowed problem even after this is done, I will use the "hardwood stick" that Scott suggested.

 Thanks again guys for your help. I sure do not want to have to redo a new set of wing ribs, as you well know, this is a heck of a lot of work!!!

Thanks again, your help is much  appreciated.

 

Ron Lalonde

601XL, Plans 6520

Tail completed, working on wings

Nova Scotia, Canada





 [quote]  Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 05:45:11 -0800

From: bill_dom(at)yahoo.com

Subject: Re: Hole Flanging

To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com



My dies are also made of wood and after I use them, I have to do a little more work to get it right. In my experience, after using the die, the rib web gets bowed inward, as you can see in this picture:



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577591804484914



Scott Laughlin gave me an idea that lead me to do this:



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577600394419522



I used the improvised tool in the picture to bend the flange a bit further down until the rib web get straight and it worked well: 



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577613279321426



The good news is [quote][b]

rjscep(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 1:58 pm Post subject: Hole Flanging

 	  Quote: 	
		   Theres a website..zenith ch701ch801.com. click on  

 side bar where it says builders links

 then click home made tools. Theres a new site 

 called Flanging Dies Construction.pdf by Ron D  

 Leclerc. Shows how to make flanging dies step by 

 step and pics to boot. Do not archive

--- William Dominguez <bill_dom(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
	




 	  Quote: 	
		   If you are hammering them that could be your

 problem. I use a vise and 3 C clamps: 

 



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577557444746498
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Here is how my wooden dies look like:

 



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577544559844594
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Because of the compressibility of wood, wooden dies

 need to have the pressure applied uniformly. A

 hammer wont guarantee that. You can give a try to

 your hardwood dies using a vise and clams and see

 what happens.

 

 William Dominguez

 Zodiac 601XL Plans

 Miami Florida

 http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom/

 

 Ron Lalonde <rlalonde(at)HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:   

 .hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px }

 body.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma

 }   

  Just got back from the local machinists place. Just

 to have the two larger dies made (95mm and 115mm),

 will be

  110 dollars EACH!

  Certainly not able to go that route. Will have to

 watch the list and see where those metal dies that

 are floating around (that can be used for the cost

 of shipping.) Still be a lot cheaper to pay shipping

 to Nova Scotia, Canada, then to have them

 manufactured here. Now just to locate them!!

   

  Sure wish I was related to a machinist...LOL

   

  (The idea of installing L brackets to solve the

 bowing problem sounds good as well)

   

  Ron

  

 

 

 

  

   

 ---------------------------------

  From: rlalonde(at)HOTMAIL.COM

 To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: RE: Hole Flanging

 Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 23:08:53 -0400

 

    .ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P {padding:0px;}

 .ExternalClass EC_body.hmmessage

 {font-size:10pt;font-family:Tahoma;}  Thanks William

 and Debo for your replies.

 Debo, I looked up the construction sheet for the

 dies and brought it to a machinist today. 

 William, I used the flanging dies made of wood and I

 experienced the same problem as you did.

 The rib webs were bowed. I however had another

 problem in that my flanges were not as wide as they

 should have been...I think I should have used a

 press instead of hammering on them. The seemed

 uneven and not centered perfectly.

  

  Anyways, I think that I am going to have a set of

 steel dies made, redo the flanges by repeating the 

 process. Hopefull will be perfectly "pressed" this

 time with a stronger die being used. If I run into

 the bowed problem even after this is done, I will

 use the "hardwood stick" that Scott suggested.

  Thanks again guys for your help. I sure do not want

 to have to redo a new set of wing ribs, as you well

 know, this is a heck of a lot of work!!!

 Thanks again, your help is much appreciated.

  

 Ron Lalonde

 601XL, Plans 6520

 Tail completed, working on wings

 Nova Scotia, Canada

 

 

 

 

   

 ---------------------------------

  Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 05:45:11 -0800

 From: bill_dom(at)yahoo.com

 Subject: Re: Hole Flanging

 To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com

 

 My dies are also made of wood and after I use them,

 I have to do a little more work to get it right. In

 my experience, after using the die, the rib web gets

 bowed inward, as you can see in this picture:

 



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577591804484914
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Scott Laughlin gave me an idea that lead me to do

 this:

 



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577600394419522
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   

 I used the improvised tool in the picture to bend

 the flange a bit further down until the rib web get

 straight and it worked well: 

 



http://picasaweb.google.com/billdomg/Wings/photo#5157577613279321426
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   

 The good news is that it no only got straight but

 the web feels stronger too, oil canning effect was

 reduced to almost nothing.

 

 William Dominguez

 Zodiac 601XL Plans

 Miami Florida

 http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom/

 

 rlalonde <rlalonde(at)HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:

 ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List"

 target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution"



target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/co================
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 

  

 ---------------------------------

  

 

 



arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   p://forums.matronics.com

 blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 

 

  

 

 ---------------------------------

  

 

 

 

 

 

 


	


Looking for last minute shopping deals?

n4546v(at)mindspring.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 2:08 pm Post subject: Hole Flanging

do not archive

  

 What metal dies are those Ron?

  

 Randy, Las Vegas

 [quote]   ---

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kmccune

Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 577
Location: Wisconsin, USA

Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 4:52 pm Post subject: Re: Hole Flanging

Now that is improvising!

_________________
â€œAlways do what you are afraid to do.â€
R.W. Emerson (1803-1882)

"Real freedom is the sustained act of being an individual." WW - 2009

"Life is a good deal...it's worth it" Feb 1969
Dorothy McCune

rjscep(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 5:57 am Post subject: Hole flanging

 	  Quote: 	
		   Totaly agree with Brett

--- Brett Hanley <bretttdc(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
	




 	  Quote: 	
		   Sometimes I think this list just makes a lot of

 people paranoid. No matter what one suggests there

 is an expert out there on the list that will tell

 you it will not work.  The best thing a builder can

 do for himself is to find a few mentors that have

 been there and done that.  People that have studied

 the material and know the rules of safe practice. 

 Follow their advice and take all other advice with a

 grain of salt. Then get the books and educate

 yourself.  That's what it is all about, learning.

    

   When I started building my 701 eight years ago

 there was not near the information available on the

 web as there is today.  I was using an old set of

 4TH edition plans.  In the plans where a set of

 drawings on how to make the flange blocks.  I just

 got some hardwood and turned them up on a wood lathe

 myself.  It was the first time I had used a wood

 lathe since high school.  It took me an entire

 afternoon to make the set of three.  I just took my

 time and and made them accurate.  They worked great

 in a press.  I flanged all my holes in about an

 hour.  Those same wood dies are still in use today. 

 They have flanged the holes for at least four

 planes.  They still work perfectly even though one

 cracked on the first hole it flanged.  Wood will

 work.

    

   Brett

 

 

 


	


Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 

http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

John75142

Joined: 05 Dec 2007
Posts: 56
Location: Kaufman, TX

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 6:33 am Post subject: Hole flanging

I had good luck with the Bob Stick method, probably not as attractive as 

with dies but functional. Had a bit of cupping that was resolved with small 

pieces of standard L in between the flanges, straightened them right out. 

This method I doubt is quiet a bit slower I would guess but it works.



John

scratch building 701



---

_________________
John Short

ashontz

Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:22 am Post subject: Re: Hole Flanging

Odd it would crown like that. After I made mine in the form I'd take it out and lay it flat on the table and tweak it with the crimping pliers and hand seamer til it sat down flat, at which point the edges would be 90 degrees anyway. I then cut the holes and flanged them and didn't notice any crown. Were they perfectly flat when you cut the holes? Maybe that's why they crowned. That or the flange die wasn't sturdy enough or something. Odd.



 	  Ron Lendon wrote: 	
		  I had the same crowning issue on the rear ribs and followed Scott's lead and just added L-angles to all the rear ribs.



http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=1683&log=20273&row=253

ashontz

Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:24 am Post subject: Re: Hole Flanging

Did you try just clamping them down with a 3/4 inch bolt and nut with a metal plate on either side? That looks like a pain in the butt.



[quote="n4546v(at)mindspring.com"]do not archive

  

 What metal dies are those Ron?

  

 Randy, Las Vegas

  	  Quote: 	
		     ---

dougsnash(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:26 am Post subject: Hole Flanging

Has anyone looked at the flanging dies from Sonex? 

They come with their sample wing rib kit.  I don't

know the sizes but they look like the design looks

like it would work.  They are some sort of cast

plastic.



Personally, I used the Avery Tools flanging stick

method for all of my holes but a good set of dies

would have done a neater job.



Doug MacDonald

CH-701 Scratch Builder

NW Ontario, Canada



Do not archive



--- ashontz <ashontz(at)nbme.org> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <ashontz(at)nbme.org>

 

 Odd it would crown like that. After I made mine in

 the form I'd take it out and lay it flat on the

 table and tweak it with the crimping pliers and hand

 seamer til it sat down flat, at which point the

 edges would be 90 degrees anyway. I then cut the

 holes and flanged them and didn't notice any crown.

 Were they perfectly flat when you cut the holes?

 Maybe that's why they crowned. That or the flange

 die wasn't sturdy enough or something. Odd.


	


Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 

http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

n4546v(at)mindspring.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:15 am Post subject: Hole Flanging

do not archive



What pain?



At the time I didn't have a 3/4" bolt, nut & washers, I didn't have "metal

plates" prepared.  It would have taken longer to find or buy and prepare all

that stuff than what I did which cost me "ZERO".



I had the jack, the junk Jeep pickup and a couple of pieces of plywood.

Once the jack was in place and the wheel jacked up, all that it required was

cracking the jack handle, a nice slow descent, then jacking back up about 1"

each time to move the dies to a new hole.  It took far less effort than

pumping a handle on a shop press along with staging proper height benches on

each side of the press to support the parts!  But I did have to bend over,

but I can always use the exercise.



And, I didn't have to "juggle" any of the parts around.  With your "nuts &

bolts & plates" how long does it take to get things positioned for each

press, especially one in the middle of a 12' wing spar web?



Another added benefit for a klutz like me is that working on the driveway,

at zero altitude above field elevation, I didn't drop a single part or die!!



Of course, if you set the dies on edge, they roll down the driveway grade

and you have to chase them the first four or five times until you learn to

set them flat.



By the way, I could have loaded all the parts in the truck and used the

three or four shop presses I had available to me at the airport, but why go

to all that pain?



This all happened a long time ago, I now have a 20 ton shop press at my

plant, and "Old Blue" the Jeep is long gone, the dies are out on the "Zenith

List" circuit, hopefully helping other builders.  I believe dies, properly

made of other materials, do a fine job.  But I'm pretty darn sure these dies

will not crack!



To those who have not seen the full size pics of this "kitchen sink

technology" here they are again.  I know this is "old hat" to veteran

listers, so I apologize in advance for the repetition and download time.



This all happened before I owned a digital camera.  The pic is a scan of

film snapshots shich I call: "Gravity powered lightning hole flanging

press".



Best regards to all,



Randy, Las Vegas

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Jaybannist(at)cs.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:24 pm Post subject: Hole Flanging

For what its worth, the flanges on my kit-supplied ribs were a little less than 90 deg.  When I tried fastening the first few to the spar, the web deflected to a domed shape, so the flange next to the spar deflected also.  After that, I went through each one, adjusting the flanges to 90 deg. Nearly all of them were off.

Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"

"ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

Odd it would crown like that. After I made mine in the form I'd take it out and lay it flat on the table and tweak it with the crimping pliers and hand seamer til it sat down flat, at which point the edges would be 90 degrees anyway. I then cut the holes and flanged them and didn't notice any crown. Were they perfectly flat when you cut the holes? Maybe that's why they crowned. That or the flange die wasn't sturdy enough or something. Odd.

Ron Lendon wrote:

> I had the same crowning issue on the rear ribs and followed Scott's lead and just added L-angles to all the rear ribs.

> 

> http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=1683&log 273&row 53

--------

Andy Shontz

CH601XL - Corvair

www.mykitlog.com/ashontz

Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164011#164011

Ron Lendon

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:13 pm Post subject: Re: Hole Flanging

Andy,



The crowning I got in the rear ribs was all my fault for making the die clearance to small (I made em to close) and coining the parts in a press.  It really was faster to just add the L-angles rather than all the hand work.  The parts were flat before the flanging operation, and they are also flat now in the completed wing.

ashontz

Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723

Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 7:11 am Post subject: Re: Hole Flanging

Takes me about 60 seconds. I put one half of the die in the vise, put the rib in, put the other die on top, put the bolt through with the plate on one side, put the plate on the other side, put the nut on, tighten the nut by hand, then use a wrench the rest of the way.



Last time I timed it (because I had to remake one with the form already finished), it took me about 80 minutes to make a wing center rib from flat sheet to fully finished rib with flanged holes.



 	  n4546v(at)mindspring.com wrote: 	
		  do not archive



And, I didn't have to "juggle" any of the parts around. With your "nuts & 

bolts & plates" how long does it take to get things positioned for each 

press, especially one in the middle of a 12' wing spar web? 

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