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naumuk(at)alltel.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:43 pm Post subject: Rudder cut-out |
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All-
Nearly out of airframe parts!
Need some help on this.
Anyone have a surefire way of cutting the rudder nose skin to fit the stab and rudder fairing? All suggestions welcome, especially from flying people.
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
[quote][b]
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larry(at)macsmachine.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 5:04 pm Post subject: Rudder cut-out |
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Bill,
Are you having difficulty cutting the line that separates the rudder
from the saddle piece?
I've got a 5mm clearance between the saddle and the rudder. Getting the
elevator bellcrank
clearance and then the gap at the rudder is tricky.
Place the saddle with crank clearance first. Then work up trim on the
rudder. Then fill the
bottom of the rudder with a bulkhead flanges up.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Bill Naumuk wrote:
Quote: | All-
Nearly out of airframe parts!
Need some help on this.
Anyone have a surefire way of cutting the rudder nose skin to fit
the stab and rudder fairing? All suggestions welcome, especially from
flying people.
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
*
*
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naumuk(at)alltel.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 7:22 am Post subject: Rudder cut-out |
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Larry-
Having troubles- hell, I'm flying blind! I have absolutely no print or
manual information about installing the saddle whatsoever. I don't even know
if I can install the saddle now, before the rear top fuse skins are on. I
wanted to get the empennage rough-rigged and my belly strobe wired before
closing in the rear of the fuse, if possible.
1. How does the saddle attach to the stab? You had one picture in the
archives that had two (Bolts/rivets) located at the aft end of the saddle. I
would assume, then, that you used some standard angle for a mount. Did you
continue the angle and hole pattern the entire length of the attachment area
or just in the area shown in the picture?
2. Once the bottom edge is contoured to the stab, I'm assuming you
follow the angle of the top of the saddle to meet the spar, plus 5mm
clearance for the rudder nose skin cut.
3. Do you leave the flat top of the saddle closed, or are you supposed
to cut it out?
You know from my experience with the outboard fairings that I hate
fiberglass, and it hates me. I'll be damned if I go through 3 saddles before
I get it right this time.
I intend to line the saddle on the CL with the top vertex even with the
front of the nose skin. Then, I'll use a spacer to trace the contour of the
stab and cut the bottom of the saddle. This will allow me to lay out the
rudder nose skin cut.
After cutting the nose skin, I'll trace the perimeter outline of the
saddle to the stab, adjust for the thickness of the fiberglass, and install
standard angle to the top of the stab for as long as practical.
Sound like a plan? Let me know if I should wait until the top rear fuse
skins are on. (I don't think they're a factor).
Bill
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naumuk(at)alltel.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 7:24 am Post subject: Rudder cut-out |
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Here's a picture.
Bill
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larry(at)macsmachine.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 9:46 am Post subject: Rudder cut-out |
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You're right Bill,
but you do need to put the rear top skins on before you get into fitting
the saddle. Then you have the dimensions
needed and the estimate of fit to make it work. Don't know anyone
that's succeeded in putting it on before the
rear top skin. Even trimming the rear top skin for the stab is a pain,
but that needs doing too.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/rudderfairing.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/fitfairing.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/ruddernose.gif
The rudder, elevator bellcrank and rear top skin fitted for the nose of
the stabilizer, then the saddle.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/runuprear.gif
The saddle is a bitch to get in until you learn to spread the sides of
it as you draw it back under the rudder far
enough to get the front edge under the rear top skin. You have to not
trim too much from your rear top skin to
allow fasteners and rudder gap and bellcrank their proper clearances. It
gets close with this piece.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/bhorn.gif
The two screws you see on each side screw into tinnermans on a short
standard angle. The front of the saddle
is fitted with 3 tinnermans and I have screws going thru the rear top
skin and into the tinnermans. That was my
solution to the forward and rear side attach points.
Hope this helps a bit,
Larry McFarland
Bill Naumuk wrote:
[quote] Here's a picture.
Bill
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tjs22t(at)verizon.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 10:27 am Post subject: Rudder cut-out |
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Quote: | The saddle is a bitch to get in until you learn to spread the sides of it
as you draw it back under the rudder far
enough to get the front edge under the rear top skin.
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..or try this which also allows the stab to be removed without marring
paint/finish.
http://www.ch601.org/resources/zodiac%20updates/mod_to_remove_stabilizer_at_a_la.htm
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amyvega2005(at)earthlink. Guest
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Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:59 pm Post subject: Rudder cut-out |
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When the plane is completely done, is when I bothered with the saddle. the very last thing right before first flight. measure 20 then cut once, then measure 20 , cut once, etc... fits nice and snug now.
Juan
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