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NEARLY ready for first flight

 
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cassius(at)cassius.org
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:20 pm    Post subject: NEARLY ready for first flight Reply with quote

Hello all,
I'm new to the Matronics list. My son is building an RV7-A, and we used
the Aero Electric Connection figure Z-11 with very few modifications
(added an SPST switch in front of the Alt. Hold; that was about all). We
are using the B&C LR-3 alternator controller, and we used an LED in the
panel for the low voltage indicator.

My son cranked the engine the first time and just let it idle a couple
of minutes. Voltage was indicated on the Dynon EMS-10 as 12.1V, which
I'm told is low. We asked around and were told by a couple of folks that
12.1V is normal for idle speeds; it will pick up at higher RPM runups.
The low volt indicator was flashing the whole time.

Today, we're about ready for first flight. My son did a 1600 RPM runup
to check mags, oil pressure, stuff like that. HOWEVER the low voltage
light never stopped blinking. He didn't notice the exact voltage
reading. When he turned on all the lights, the current draw went into
the red.

Here's my question - how do I start trying to debug this problem? Do I
suspect the alternator, the LR-3, or what? It was about 30 degrees at
the hangar when he shut the engine down, so I haven't had the chance to
check the wiring connectivity yet, and I know that's the first step.

The EMS is connected to the main power bus, so it's not behind the
bridge diode that protects the E-bus.

Any suggestions?

Cassius Smith

-----------------
"With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
somewhere."
C. S. Lewis
-----------------
"With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
somewhere."
C. S. Lewis


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n744bh(at)bellsouth.net
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 7:02 pm    Post subject: NEARLY ready for first flight Reply with quote

Check the B&C web site. They have a troubleshooting guide for the LR-3.
Print it out and follow it. I had roughly the same problem when I first
tried my electrical system with the alternator and using the guide I found I
had made a bad crimp connection. Easy fix. Good luck.

Bill
Glasair SIIS-FT
---


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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:10 pm    Post subject: NEARLY ready for first flight Reply with quote

At 07:16 PM 2/19/2008 -0700, you wrote:

Quote:


Hello all,
I'm new to the Matronics list. My son is building an RV7-A, and we used
the Aero Electric Connection figure Z-11 with very few modifications
(added an SPST switch in front of the Alt. Hold; that was about all). We
are using the B&C LR-3 alternator controller, and we used an LED in the
panel for the low voltage indicator.

My son cranked the engine the first time and just let it idle a couple
of minutes. Voltage was indicated on the Dynon EMS-10 as 12.1V, which
I'm told is low. We asked around and were told by a couple of folks that
12.1V is normal for idle speeds; it will pick up at higher RPM runups.
The low volt indicator was flashing the whole time.

Today, we're about ready for first flight. My son did a 1600 RPM runup
to check mags, oil pressure, stuff like that. HOWEVER the low voltage
light never stopped blinking. He didn't notice the exact voltage
reading. When he turned on all the lights, the current draw went into
the red.

Here's my question - how do I start trying to debug this problem? Do I
suspect the alternator, the LR-3, or what? It was about 30 degrees at
the hangar when he shut the engine down, so I haven't had the chance to
check the wiring connectivity yet, and I know that's the first step.

The EMS is connected to the main power bus, so it's not behind the
bridge diode that protects the E-bus.

Any suggestions?

Cassius Smith

There's a troubleshooting procedure for the LR-3 published
at:

http://bandc.biz/Downloads.html

Pick the one appropriate to the model you have.

There's a general troubleshooting guide for
externally regulated alternators in Appendix
Z to the AeroElectric Connection which you
can download at:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11M.pdf

See Note 8 on Page Z-7.

Let us know what you find.

Bob . . .

----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------


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cassius(at)cassius.org
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:08 am    Post subject: NEARLY ready for first flight Reply with quote

OK - here's what we did...
I looked carefully at the installation and troubleshooting guides which
were pointed out to me (THANKS) and I realized that we may not have been
connecting the ALT Field. AEC Z-11 plan for BAT/ALT MASTER switch is a
B&C 2-10 switch with two distinct positions - 1/2 way up is battery on,
full up is battery and alt field on. When I looked through the inst and
t/shooting guides, they mention making sure you have voltage on pin 6
within 0.5V of the bus voltage. When I looked at the diagram (see
attached) I realized that the pilot may not have been throwing the
switch all the way up after engine start.

We gave this a try and presto - 14.1-14.2V. Low Voltage stopped
flashing.

HOWEVER the low voltage lamp stayed LIT at 1600RPM - does this mean I
may have a bad crimp? Or do I just need to adjust it down on the LR3C?

Cassius Smith

-----------------
"With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
somewhere."
C. S. Lewis

[quote] ------


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cassius(at)cassius.org
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:12 am    Post subject: NEARLY ready for first flight Reply with quote

And HERE's the attachment - sorry everyone!

-----------------
"With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
somewhere."
C. S. Lewis

[quote] ------


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MasterSwitch-LR3_Connection-1.jpg
 Description:
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MasterSwitch-LR3_Connection-1.jpg


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bicyclop(at)pacbell.net
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 10:27 pm    Post subject: NEARLY ready for first flight Reply with quote

Cassius,

I used an LED also and it is always lit. It flashes for low volt. Bob
published, somewhere on his website, a diagram for adding a couple of
resistors to make it not glow all the time, but I have not got around to
doing the fix. I guess I just got used to thinking of it as a low volt
sensor armed light.

Pax,

Ed Holyoke

Cassius Smith wrote:
[quote]

OK - here's what we did...
I looked carefully at the installation and troubleshooting guides which
were pointed out to me (THANKS) and I realized that we may not have been
connecting the ALT Field. AEC Z-11 plan for BAT/ALT MASTER switch is a
B&C 2-10 switch with two distinct positions - 1/2 way up is battery on,
full up is battery and alt field on. When I looked through the inst and
t/shooting guides, they mention making sure you have voltage on pin 6
within 0.5V of the bus voltage. When I looked at the diagram (see
attached) I realized that the pilot may not have been throwing the
switch all the way up after engine start.

We gave this a try and presto - 14.1-14.2V. Low Voltage stopped
flashing.

HOWEVER the low voltage lamp stayed LIT at 1600RPM - does this mean I
may have a bad crimp? Or do I just need to adjust it down on the LR3C?

Cassius Smith

-----------------
"With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
somewhere."
C. S. Lewis


> ------


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lists(at)stevet.net
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 6:11 am    Post subject: NEARLY ready for first flight Reply with quote

Here is a previous response to the LED glowing all the time:
________________


<deemsdavis(at)cox.net>

I would like to subsitute an LED for the Low Voltage bulb that came
with the B&C LR3C-14 . I posed the question to Tim Hedding (at) B&C and
received this in response.

If you use an LED instead of an incandescent lamp, install a 470 - 510
Ohm,
1/2 Watt, resistor between terminals 3 and 5 of the LR3C-14 (or the
SB1B-14)
so that the LED does not glow dimly all of the time.

Deems Davis # 406
Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
On Feb 20, 2008, at 10:22 PM, Ed Holyoke wrote:

[quote]
>

Cassius,

I used an LED also and it is always lit. It flashes for low volt.
Bob published, somewhere on his website, a diagram for adding a
couple of resistors to make it not glow all the time, but I have not
got around to doing the fix. I guess I just got used to thinking of
it as a low volt sensor armed light.

Pax,

Ed Holyoke

Cassius Smith wrote:
>
> >
>
> OK - here's what we did...
> I looked carefully at the installation and troubleshooting guides
> which
> were pointed out to me (THANKS) and I realized that we may not have
> been
> connecting the ALT Field. AEC Z-11 plan for BAT/ALT MASTER switch
> is a
> B&C 2-10 switch with two distinct positions - 1/2 way up is battery
> on,
> full up is battery and alt field on. When I looked through the inst
> and
> t/shooting guides, they mention making sure you have voltage on pin 6
> within 0.5V of the bus voltage. When I looked at the diagram (see
> attached) I realized that the pilot may not have been throwing the
> switch all the way up after engine start.
>
> We gave this a try and presto - 14.1-14.2V. Low Voltage stopped
> flashing.
>
> HOWEVER the low voltage lamp stayed LIT at 1600RPM - does this mean I
> may have a bad crimp? Or do I just need to adjust it down on the
> LR3C?
>
> Cassius Smith
>
> -----------------
> "With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
> somewhere."
> C. S. Lewis
>
>> ------


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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 3:44 pm    Post subject: NEARLY ready for first flight Reply with quote

At 10:22 PM 2/20/2008 -0800, you wrote:

Quote:


Cassius,

I used an LED also and it is always lit. It flashes for low volt. Bob
published, somewhere on his website, a diagram for adding a couple of
resistors to make it not glow all the time, but I have not got around to
doing the fix. I guess I just got used to thinking of it as a low volt
sensor armed light.

LEDs and incandescent lamps are not directly interchangeable
in this application. You need to add a resistor to the LR-3
terminals to get the LED to masquerade as an incandescent
device. I think 470 ohm, 1/2 watt between terminals 3 and
5 of the LR3. This applies to LEDs with built in resistors
that turn them into 12v devices.

If you're assembling your own LED indicator from scratch
then you need both a series AND a parallel resistor. Here's
one of several approaches that would work:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LV_Led.jpg

Bob. . .


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cassius(at)cassius.org
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 5:49 pm    Post subject: NEARLY ready for first flight Reply with quote

470 ohms 1/2 W resistor between pins 3 and 5, heat shrink insulated,
that did the trick.

My son's project is now flying off the Phase I hours; LED low voltage
indicator works great.

THANKS ALL!

-----------------
"With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
somewhere."
C. S. Lewis

[quote] ------


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