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Rudder Cable farings

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4rcsimmons(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 5:56 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

List,  

   

I was preparing to place my rudder cable fairings on the fuselage sides. I am at a loss on how it should really locate. My sides came with the slot cut in both sides and I think they are too low.  

   

1) The instructions show 30mm to 35mm from the bottom (Longeron or Skin?)   

   

2) However, the width of the faring is 80mm so 40mm should be centerline at the exit.  

   

3) is it a straight shot for the cable or does the fairlead carry a load to change the line of the cable?   

   

Zenith says that the cable exit should be parallel to the fuse bottom so likewise the slot cut in the fairlead guide should on centerline to the   

slot.  

   

Can any of you tell/show me what you did?  

   

Thanks,  

Rich Simmons  

   

Do not archive  

   

   

   

       [quote][b]

Gig Giacona

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1416
Location: El Dorado Arkansas USA

Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:22 am Post subject: Re: Rudder Cable farings

If I remember correctly, I cut the hole as per plans and then centered the faring based on the hole and it all came out just right.

_________________
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR

bryanmmartin

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1018

Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:35 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

If I recall correctly, I trimmed the bottom side of the fairlead to fit over the slot that was cut according to the plans.

On Feb 22, 2007, at 8:55 AM, Rich wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

I was preparing to place my rudder cable fairings on the fuselage sides. I am at a loss on how it should really locate. My sides came with the slot cut in both sides and I think they are too low.

1) The instructions show 30mm to 35mm from the bottom (Longeron or Skin?)\ 

2) However, the width of the faring is 80mm so 40mm should be centerline at the exit.

	






 -- 

Bryan Martin

N61BM, CH 601 XL,

RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.

do not archive.

 



 [quote][b]

_________________
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.

601zv(at)ritternet.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 7:31 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

The fairings I received with the kit are oblong as  pictured in the plans and 60mm wide instead of 80mm. When placed several  millimeters above the bottom of the fuse as pictured, the centers come out at  about 32 to 33mm, indicating that the "80x80" is an error in the plans and  should be 80x60. I don't however have the rudder yet mounted so cannot determine  if alignment is correct without any up or down load.

  

     Robin in AR

     601XL Zen-Vair, N601ZV  reserved

 [quote]   ---

MHerder

Joined: 11 Feb 2008
Posts: 143
Location: Fort Worth TX

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 9:21 pm Post subject: Re: Rudder Cable farings

I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step...  I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step.  It looks so simple in the manual...



I HATE cutting this material.  The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to plexiglass as one would think.   It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable material to work with.  



I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.  



OK.  I'm done venting.  



But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff?  I have tried the following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like hell.  There must be a better way.



As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this point so that if I need to tweak the location a little I can  I'll drill the rest when I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls.  I don't think you can truly know if everything is just right until you try to run the cables.  If you rivet everything all together and then realize that you should have filed a little more of the fairlead material away then there you are drilling out rivets.  I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling out rivets.

_________________
Zodiac 601 HD
Jabiru 3300
Wood Sensinich 64x47
Finally Flying

cndmovn(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 9:57 pm Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

Cut mine on a bandsaw no problem.  You have a bit of flashing to deal with, but it comes off very easily with an exacto knife.  Drilling created some flash that needs to be cleaned up with an exacto as well. 



My method was to:

 

1)  Locate, cut and drill the rudder cable exit fairings first.

2)  Clamp the N66 material to the fairing and drill matching holes

3) Rough cut the clecoed assembly (fairing and N66) from the N66 sheet with a bandsaw

 4) With everything still clecoed together, use a belt sander, using brief contact and then allowing for a quick cool down and then back at it, to bring the N66 to the same dimension as the fairing.  It took me about 5 minutes per fairing to get the N66 cut and sanded to size

 5) trim any flashing of the material with a sharp exacto knife.



FYI, on the plans it tells you to cut an angled slot in the fairlead material, but I peaked at at fellow builder's quick build fuse and the factory just cuts a slot to match the one machined into the prepunched fuse side.  I did the same with a milling machine cutter in a machining vise on a drill press.

 

Detail can be seen on my  blog at www.mykitlog.com/paulried/ 



Hope that helps



On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 12:22 AM, MHerder <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com (michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com)> wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  --> Zenith-List message posted by: "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com (michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com)>

  

 I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step...  I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step.  It looks so simple in the manual...

 

 I HATE cutting this material.  The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to plexiglass as one would think.   It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable material to work with.

 

 I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.

 

 OK.  I'm done venting.

 

 But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff?  I have tried the following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like hell.  There must be a better way.

  

 As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this point so that if I need to tweak the location a little I can  I'll drill the rest when I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls.  I don't think you can truly know if everything is just right until you try to run the cables.  If you rivet everything all together and then realize that you should have filed a little more of the fairlead material away then there you are drilling out rivets.  I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling out rivets.

  

 --------

 One Rivet at a Time!

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 	


-- 

Paul Riedlinger

cndmovn(at)gmail.com (cndmovn(at)gmail.com)  [quote][b]

grs-pms(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 10:11 pm Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

I cut mine with a bandsaw.



George Swinford



---

JohnDRead(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 10:55 pm Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

Hi Paul:

             Nylon  66 is a good material for fairleads because of its wear characteristics, as you  have found it is a pain to machine though. Rough shaping can be done on a  bandsaw but for final accurate shaping the best way is to use a milling machine  and high speed steel end mills. A light spray of water is all that is  needed to keep the workpiece and the cutter cool. 

  

 do not archive.

  

 John  Read



Phone: 303-648-3261

Fax: 303-648-3262

Cell: 719-494-4567   

  In a message dated 3/1/2008 10:58:24 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,  cndmovn(at)gmail.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  Cut mine    on a bandsaw no problem.  You have a bit of flashing to deal with, but it    comes off very easily with an exacto knife.  Drilling created some flash    that needs to be cleaned up with an exacto as well. 



My method was    to:



1)  Locate, cut and drill the rudder cable exit fairings    first.

2)  Clamp the N66 material to the fairing and drill matching    holes

3) Rough cut the clecoed assembly (fairing and N66) from the N66    sheet with a bandsaw

4) With everything still clecoed together, use a belt    sander, using brief contact and then allowing for a quick cool down and then    back at it, to bring the N66 to the same dimension as the fairing.  It    took me about 5 minutes per fairing to get the N66 cut and sanded to    size

5) trim any flashing of the material with a sharp exacto    knife.



FYI, on the plans it tells you to cut an angled slot in the    fairlead material, but I peaked at at fellow builder's quick build fuse and    the factory just cuts a slot to match the one machined into the prepunched    fuse side.  I did the same with a milling machine cutter in a machining    vise on a drill press.



Detail can be seen on my  blog at www.mykitlog.com/paulried/    



Hope that helps



   On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 12:22 AM, MHerder <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com (michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com)>    wrote:

    	  Quote: 	
		  -->      Zenith-List message posted by: "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com (michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com)>



I      would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step...       I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step.       It looks so simple in the manual...



I HATE cutting this      material.  The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to plexiglass      as one would think.   It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable      material to work with.



I guess the same properties of this material      that make it a pain in the a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a      material that will constantly be being rubbed by a piece of steel      cable.



OK.  I'm done venting.



But seriously guys how are      you cutting this stuff?  I have tried the following tablesaw (kickback      safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with cutoff wheel and      now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or less melts and      slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like hell.       There must be a better way.



As far as positioning goes I am      only drilling two of the holes at this point so that if I need to tweak the      location a little I can  I'll drill the rest when I actually install      rudder and start adjusting controls.  I don't think you can truly know      if everything is just right until you try to run the cables.  If you      rivet everything all together and then realize that you should have filed a      little more of the fairlead material away then there you are drilling out      rivets.  I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling      out rivets.



--------

One Rivet at a Time!





Read      this topic online here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200





	


-- 

Paul Riedlinger

cndmovn(at)gmail.com (cndmovn(at)gmail.com)  	  Quote: 	
		  



f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List

.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com

://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution



	
	






Delicious ideas to please the pickiest eaters. Watch the video on AOL Living.

  [quote][b]

planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 5:09 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

Nylon will usually cut beautifully with a bandsaw and a 4 tpi skip tooth blade. Alternatively, cut a 3/8" hole in a piece of 3/4" or 1" plywood/MDF and screw a sabresaw to the back with a coarse tooth blade mounted and sticking up through the hole - poor man's bandsaw.



To finish, use very sharp drills/bits. I usually use a 2 or 3 flute router mounted in a table to clean up edges - if you use sandpaper, the finshed edge will collect dirt and be very ugly over time. Just shave the edges taking a very small amount of material off in a pass - never plow. The burr remaing in the edge is best removed by use of a brand new, very sharp #11 X-acto blade/handle and trimming carefully at 45°.



MHerder <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> wrote:[quote] --> Zenith-List message posted by: "MHerder" 



I would like to take  a moment to express my frustration with this step...  I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step.  It looks so simple in the manual...



I HATE cutting this material.  The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to plexiglass as one would think.   It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable material to work with.  



I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.  



OK.  I'm done venting.  



But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff?  I have tried the following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like hell.  There must be a better way.



As far as positioning goes I am only drilling [quote][b]

jeffrey_davidson(at)earth
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 5:09 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

FWIW: I cut the N66 with a common hacksaw and cleaned up the cut with a

simple (Nicholson) file.  No problems at all.

Jeff Davidson    



...

But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff?  I have tried the

following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same),

dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel

which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and

it stinks like hell.  There must be a better way.

planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 5:10 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

by the way, what usually wears out in time is the cable - not the Nylon fairlead! The better aligned to the likely range of position of the cable in use, the longer the cable will last!



Paul Riedlinger <cndmovn(at)gmail.com> wrote:[quote] Cut mine on a bandsaw no problem.  You have a bit of flashing to deal with, but it comes off very easily with an exacto knife.  Drilling created some flash that needs to be cleaned up with an exacto as well. 



My method was to:

 

1)  Locate, cut and drill the rudder cable exit fairings first.

2)  Clamp the N66 material to the fairing and drill matching holes

3) Rough cut the clecoed assembly (fairing and N66) from the N66 sheet with a bandsaw

 4) With everything still clecoed together, use a belt sander, using brief contact and then allowing for a quick cool down and then  back at it, to bring the N66 to the same dimension as the fairing.  It took me about 5 minutes per fairing to get the N66 cut and sanded to size

 5) trim any flashing of the material with a sharp exacto knife.



FYI, on the plans it tells you to cut an angled slot in the fairlead material, but I peaked at at fellow builder's quick build fuse and the factory just cuts a slot to match the one machined into the prepunched fuse side.  I did the same with a milling machine cutter in a machining vise on a drill press.

 

Detail can be seen on my  blog at www.mykitlog.com/paulried/ 



Hope that helps



On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 12:22 AM, MHerder <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com (michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com)> wrote:

 [quote]-->  Zenith-List message posted by: "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com (michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com)>

  

 I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step...  I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step.  It looks so simple in the manual...

 

 I HATE cutting this material.  The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to plexiglass as one would think.   It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable material to work with.

 

 I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.

 

 OK.  I'm done venting.

 

 But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff?  I have tried the following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic  cutoff wheel which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like hell.  There must be a better way.

  

 As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this point so that if I need to tweak the location a little I can  I'll drill the rest when I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls.  I don't think you can truly know if everything is just right until you try to run the cables.  If you rivet everything all together and then realize that you should have filed a little more of the fairlead material away then there you are drilling out rivets.  I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling out rivets.

  

 --------

 One Rivet at a Time!

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200

 

      [quote][b]

jmaynard

Joined: 27 Feb 2008
Posts: 394
Location: Fairmont, MN (FRM)

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 5:41 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

On Sun, Mar 02, 2008 at 01:52:31AM -0500, JohnDRead(at)aol.com wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		               Nylon  66 is a good material for fairleads because of its wear 

 characteristics, as you  have found it is a pain to machine though. Rough 

 shaping can be done on a  bandsaw but for final accurate shaping the best way is to 

 use a milling machine  and high speed steel end mills. A light spray of water 

 is all that is  needed to keep the workpiece and the cutter cool. 


	


Sounds like a candidate for molding in the proper shape...is there a drawing

I can see somewhere online?



do not archive

-- 

Jay Maynard, K5ZC                   http://www.conmicro.com

http://jmaynard.livejournal.com      http://www.tronguy.net

Fairmont, MN (FRM)                        (Yes, that's me!)

AMD Zodiac CH601XLi N55ZC (getting ready to order)

_________________
Jay Maynard, K5ZC
AMD Zodiac XLi N55ZC

naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:13 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

Band saw and belt sander. Compared to some other tasks I can think of, no 

problem.

                                                                             

                                                                    Bill

                                                                        do 

not archive

 	  Quote: 	
		   I HATE cutting this material.  The nylon fairlead material is not as 

 similar to plexiglass as one would think.   It splinters, cracks and is 

 generally a miserable material to work with.

daveaustin2(at)primus.ca
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:38 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

Hacksaw.

Dave Austin  601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII

Jaybannist(at)cs.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:39 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

Michael,



I've used a hacksaw to cut, then dressed with sandpaper. Hand tools and hand work get the job done.  Power just melts the stuff.



Jay in Dallas



"MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  



I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step...  I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step.  It looks so simple in the manual...



I HATE cutting this material.  The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to plexiglass as one would think.   It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable material to work with.  



I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.  



OK.  I'm done venting.  



But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff?  I have tried the following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like hell.  There must be a better way.



As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this point so that if I need to tweak the location a little I can  I'll drill the rest when I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls.  I don't think you can truly know if everything is just right until you try to run the cables.  If you rivet everything all together and then realize that you should have filed a little more of the fairlead material away then there you are drilling out rivets.  I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling out rivets.



--------

One Rivet at a Time!





Read this topic online here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200

notsew_evets(at)frontiern
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 7:15 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

There is an old receipe for working with plastics such as nylon etc.  Freeze 

the material and it will work easily in this state...

---

bryanmmartin

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1018

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 8:01 am Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

I used a hack saw, it probably cuts through this stuff faster than a  

cut-off wheel. A cut-off wheel is great for steel, not so good for  

softer stuff.



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 >

 But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff?  I have tried the  

 following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router  

 (same), dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger  

 pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or less melts and slings pieces of  

 melted plastic all over me and it stinks like hell.  There must be a  

 better way.




	




-- 

Bryan Martin

N61BM, CH 601 XL,

RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.

do not archive.

_________________
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.

dredmoody(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:14 pm Post subject: Rudder Cable farings

I found that drilling and deburring a hole at the  terminus of the slot in the fairlead, then cutting to the hole with a bandsaw  worked well.

  

 Dred

   [quote][b]

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