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jmcburney(at)pobox.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 6:05 pm Post subject: DPDT high-current contactor needed |
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Hi, Listers,
I need a manually operated double pole double throw contactor that will
carry (not make or break) up to 400 amps. I'm building a 14v system, but my
engine requires 24v to spin the starter. My plan is to install 2 batteries.
Normal configuration will be parallel for charging and normal running, but
switching one battery into a series configuration for starting. Actual
starting will be with a starter contactor, so the dpdt contactor won't make
or break the starting current. Any thoughts on where I could find such a
contactor?
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 6:00 pm Post subject: DPDT high-current contactor needed |
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At 10:02 PM 3/16/2008 -0500, you wrote:
Quote: |
Hi, Listers,
I need a manually operated double pole double throw contactor that will
carry (not make or break) up to 400 amps. I'm building a 14v system, but my
engine requires 24v to spin the starter. My plan is to install 2 batteries.
Normal configuration will be parallel for charging and normal running, but
switching one battery into a series configuration for starting. Actual
starting will be with a starter contactor, so the dpdt contactor won't make
or break the starting current. Any thoughts on where I could find such a
contactor?
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The last time I saw a series-parallel battery controller
it was a about half the size of a breadbox, weighed about
10 pounds and cost a couple of grand. Of course, this was
an electrically engaged/disengaged device. It was a WWII
era design. I think a Hartman product. Not part of their
current bag of tricks that I could see . . .
http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/hartman.asp
I'm unaware of any manually operated device for this
purpose. On the TC side of the house, we go to a LOT
of effort to avoid a need for such agility in battery
management.
Here's a drawing I did for a client some years ago
to address a similar requirement. He didn't need 400A
so the Stancore/White-Rogers contactors would suffice.
If this approach works for you, you'll need to consider
some heavier devices. Perhaps Type 124?
http://www.stancor.com/wrdstc/pdfs/Catalog_2006/Pg_054_55.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
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jmcburney(at)pobox.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 7:05 am Post subject: DPDT high-current contactor needed |
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Hi, Bob,
I miswrote in my original post, and was graciously corrected off-list by
bakerocb(at)cox.net. I should have used the term "switch" instead of
"contactor", as what I envision is a dpdt switch, manually operated, that is
heavy enough to carry the ~400 amps that the starter might pull when
engaged. Normal operating current would be much less, just battery charge
current. I would throw the switch to "start" before energizing the starter
contactor, giving me 24v at the starter, then go back to "run" position when
starting is complete. 0 amps make and break on the "start" side, few amps
make and break on "run" side, must carry the heavy current when starter is
energized.
bakerocb(at)cox.net gave me a link to Blue Sea Systems, which may have what I
need. Other suggestions are welcome, though.
Oh, and DO NOT ARCHIVE. (I forgot that last post.)
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 11:22 am Post subject: DPDT high-current contactor needed |
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At 10:54 AM 3/18/2008 -0500, you wrote:
Quote: |
Hi, Bob,
I miswrote in my original post, and was graciously corrected off-list by
bakerocb(at)cox.net. I should have used the term "switch" instead of
"contactor", as what I envision is a dpdt switch, manually operated, that is
heavy enough to carry the ~400 amps that the starter might pull when
engaged. Normal operating current would be much less, just battery charge
current. I would throw the switch to "start" before energizing the starter
contactor, giving me 24v at the starter, then go back to "run" position when
starting is complete. 0 amps make and break on the "start" side, few amps
make and break on "run" side, must carry the heavy current when starter is
energized.
bakerocb(at)cox.net gave me a link to Blue Sea Systems, which may have what I
need. Other suggestions are welcome, though.
Oh, and DO NOT ARCHIVE. (I forgot that last post.)
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That's what I understood you to mean . . . and the only
products I've seen to address that design goal were not
manual devices . . . but custom electro-mechanical
constructs.
You can emulate this activity with a series of single
pole, battery switches that are readily available through
speed shops. Battery disconnect switches are required
on most competition vehicles. As long as you throw
them in the proper sequence, you won't blow any fat
fuses. My best recommendation is that you use the contactor
array described . . .
Perhaps someone on the List has a broader experience/
knowledge than I and can make a recommendation.
Bob . . .
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