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Rex Hefferan

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 147
Location: Olney Springs, Colorado USA "NOT a Kitpig"

Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 5:50 pm Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

I have the original Maule tailwheel on my model 2. I purchased a 

Homebuilders tailwheel from Aircraft Spruce and I'm going to a bearing 

supply shop tomorrow to buy bearings. I've checked the archives for any 

details to prepare myself better to present my problem. I'll be taking 

the new tailwheel with me with the included bearing still installed 

since I don't have the proper tools to remove them. I want to replace 

them with better bearings sized to fit the 0.5 inch axle. Has anyone 

pressed or pulled these bearings out? What tools would I need? Perhaps 

the bearing shop will offer R&R services. I may stop at the local Harbor 

Freight Tools for an Arbor press and other appropriate tools anyway. Any 

advice would be appreciated.

 I plan to document the swap for a future Kitfox Wiki article.



-- 

Rex Hefferan

SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

_________________
Rex
N740GP - M2/582
Colorado

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 4:46 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

When I did this very same job, I drove the old bearings out with a  

punch driven from the opposite side. If you are trying to save the  

bearings, only drive against the outer bearing race. If you don't  

care, you can drive against the inner race, but be sure to vary the  

location of where you are driving, so as to not cock the bearing in  

the bore. As I recall, I ground a notch on either side of the bearing  

bore....in the wheel itself....so future bearing removals will go  

easier without damage.



If bearings are not available with the proper ID for your 0.500"  

axle...my bearing dealer couldn't find them...here's what I did. I  

used a length of steel tubing that fit the shaft, and the bearings,  

and cut it to a length equal to the distance measured between the  

outside of the new bearings installed into the new Spruce wheel PLUS  

about 5 thousandths of an inch...0.005".....This extra length will  

allow the nut and washer to tighten onto the sleeve, and not the  

inner race of the bearings, which will put a sideways load on those  

bearings and ruin them after a while. Ideally, this inner sleeve  

would have a sleeve slipped over it, its length equal to the  

measurement between the inner races of the bearings. Then the  

tightening of the nut onto the axle would put pressure against the  

inner race of the outer bearing, against the sleeve, then against the  

inner race of the inner bearing. In practice however, I've found that  

this elaborateness (if that's a word) isn't necessary.

Lynn Matteson

Grass Lake, Michigan

Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

flying w/480+ hrs



On Mar 18, 2008, at 9:47 PM, Rexinator wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I have the original Maule tailwheel on my model 2. I purchased a  

 Homebuilders tailwheel from Aircraft Spruce and I'm going to a  

 bearing supply shop tomorrow to buy bearings. I've checked the  

 archives for any details to prepare myself better to present my  

 problem. I'll be taking the new tailwheel with me with the included  

 bearing still installed since I don't have the proper tools to  

 remove them. I want to replace them with better bearings sized to  

 fit the 0.5 inch axle. Has anyone pressed or pulled these bearings  

 out? What tools would I need? Perhaps the bearing shop will offer  

 R&R services. I may stop at the local Harbor Freight Tools for an  

 Arbor press and other appropriate tools anyway. Any advice would be  

 appreciated.

 I plan to document the swap for a future Kitfox Wiki article.



 -- 

 Rex Hefferan

 SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

patreilly43(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:01 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Lynn, Just finished completing this job on my tail wheel per your instruction. Looks good.

 Do not archieve

 Pat Reilly

 Mod 3 Rebuild

 Rockford,IL



 	  Quote: 	
		   From: lynnmatt(at)jps.net

 Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 08:39:53 -0400

 To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 

 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 

 When I did this very same job, I drove the old bearings out with a 

 punch driven from the opposite side. If you are trying to save the 

 bearings, only drive against the outer bearing race. If you don't 

 care, you can drive against the inner race, but be sure to vary the 

 location of where you are driving, so as to not cock the bearing in 

 the bore. As I recall, I ground a notch on either side of the bearing 

 bore....in the wheel itself....so future bearing removals will go 

 easier without damage.

 

 If bearings are not available with the proper ID for your 0.500" 

 axle...my bearing dealer couldn't find them...here's what I did. I 

 used a length of steel tubing that fit the shaft, and the bearings, 

 and cut it to a length equal to the distance measured between the 

 outside of the new bearings installed into the new Spruce wheel PLUS 

 about 5 thousandths of an inch...0.005".....This extra length will 

 allow the nut and washer to tighten onto the sleeve, and not the 

 inner race of the bearings, which will put a sideways load on those 

 bearings and ruin them after a while. Ideally, this inner sleeve 

 would have a sleeve slipped over it, its length equal to the 

 measurement between the inner races of the bearings. Then the 

 tightening of the nut onto the axle would put pressure against the 

 inner race of the outer bearing, against the sleeve, then against the 

 inner race of the inner bearing. In practice however, I've found that 

 this elaborateness (if that's a word) isn't necessary.

 

 

 Lynn Matteson

 Grass Lake, Michigan

 Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 flying w/480+ hrs

 

 On Mar 18, 2008, at 9:47 PM, Rexinator wrote:

 

 > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rexinator <hefferans(at)gmail.com>

 >

 > I have the original Maule tailwheel on my model 2. I purchased a 

 > Homebuilders tailwheel from Aircraft Spruce and I'm going to a 

 > bearing supply shop tomorrow to buy bearings. I've checked the 

 > archives for any details to prepare myself better to present my 

 > problem. I'll be taking the new tailwheel with me with the included 

 > bearing still installed since I don't have the proper tools to 

 > remove them. I want to replace them with better bearings sized to 

 > fit the 0.5 inch axle. Has anyone pressed or pulled these bearings 

 > out? What tools would I need? Perhaps the bearing shop will offer 

 > R&R services. I may stop at the local Harbor Freight Tools for an 

 > Arbor press and other appropriate tools anyway. Any advice would be 

 > appreciated.

 > I plan to document the swap for a future Kitfox Wiki article.

 >

 > -- 

 > Rex Hefferan

 > SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

 >

 >

 >

&=======
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 


	


  [quote][b]

patreilly43(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:22 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Rex,Aircraft Spruce sells a pair of sealed bearings for $4.95 for that wheel. I just put them in per Lynn Matteson's instructions. The tubing you need to make a bushing is ACS part # 03-03900. Buy 1 foot of it . You will have to file and emery paper the OD a couple of thousands to get it to fit. Do it before you cut to length so you can hold it in a vice.

  

 Pat Reilly

 Mod 3 Rebuild

 Rockford,IL



 	  Quote: 	
		   Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 19:47:23 -0600

 To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 From: hefferans(at)gmail.com

 

 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rexinator <hefferans(at)gmail.com>

 

 I have the original Maule tailwheel on my model 2. I purchased a 

 Homebuilders tailwheel from Aircraft Spruce and I'm going to a bearing 

 supply shop tomorrow to buy bearings. I've checked the archives for any 

 details to prepare myself better to present my problem. I'll be taking 

 the new tailwheel with me with the included bearing still installed 

 since I don't have the proper tools to remove them. I want to replace 

 them with better bearings sized to fit the 0.5 inch axle. Has anyone 

 pressed or pulled these bearings out? What tools would I need? Perhaps 

 the bearing shop will offer R&R services. I may stop at the local Harbor 

 Freight Tools for an Arbor press and other appropriate tools anyway. Any 

 advice would be appreciated.

 I plan to document the swap for a future Kitfox Wiki article.

 

 -- 

 Rex Hefferan

 SE Colorado / K-II ==========

 

 

 


	


  [quote][b]

Rex Hefferan

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 147
Location: Olney Springs, Colorado USA "NOT a Kitpig"

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:33 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Thanks Lynn,

 I did attempt to punch out the bearings, but didn't want to strike hard 

enough and figured I would wait until I got appropriate tools. All of 

your advice will be in my documentation too.

 Another question: Did you do anything to create a grease seal?



-- 

Rex Hefferan

SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs



Lynn Matteson wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 When I did this very same job, I drove the old bearings out with a  

 punch driven from the opposite side. If you are trying to save the  

 bearings, only drive against the outer bearing race. If you don't  

 care, you can drive against the inner race, but be sure to vary the  

 location of where you are driving, so as to not cock the bearing in  

 the bore. As I recall, I ground a notch on either side of the bearing  

 bore....in the wheel itself....so future bearing removals will go  

 easier without damage.



 If bearings are not available with the proper ID for your 0.500"  

 axle...my bearing dealer couldn't find them...here's what I did. I  

 used a length of steel tubing that fit the shaft, and the bearings,  

 and cut it to a length equal to the distance measured between the  

 outside of the new bearings installed into the new Spruce wheel PLUS  

 about 5 thousandths of an inch...0.005".....This extra length will  

 allow the nut and washer to tighten onto the sleeve, and not the  

 inner race of the bearings, which will put a sideways load on those  

 bearings and ruin them after a while. Ideally, this inner sleeve  

 would have a sleeve slipped over it, its length equal to the  

 measurement between the inner races of the bearings. Then the  

 tightening of the nut onto the axle would put pressure against the  

 inner race of the outer bearing, against the sleeve, then against the  

 inner race of the inner bearing. In practice however, I've found that  

 this elaborateness (if that's a word) isn't necessary.

 Lynn Matteson

 Grass Lake, Michigan

 Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

 flying w/480+ hrs

_________________
Rex
N740GP - M2/582
Colorado

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:21 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

No grease seal. I left the felt washer in place against the back side  

of the wheel, and as I recall, the bearings I got were sealed on the  

outside...maybe even lifetime greased/sealed. See my post of March  

13, for a picture of the new wheel under " Trailering my Kitfox/ 

tailwheel"

If I could ever get to cleaning up my "nest", I might find some of  

the paperwork including the bills and part numbers for the stuff I  

put into the plane. : )



Lynn



On Mar 19, 2008, at 10:28 AM, Rexinator wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Thanks Lynn,

 I did attempt to punch out the bearings, but didn't want to strike  

 hard enough and figured I would wait until I got appropriate tools.  

 All of your advice will be in my documentation too.

 Another question: Did you do anything to create a grease seal?



 -- 

 Rex Hefferan

 SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs



 Lynn Matteson wrote:



> 

>

> When I did this very same job, I drove the old bearings out with  

> a  punch driven from the opposite side. If you are trying to save  

> the  bearings, only drive against the outer bearing race. If you  

> don't  care, you can drive against the inner race, but be sure to  

> vary the  location of where you are driving, so as to not cock the  

> bearing in  the bore. As I recall, I ground a notch on either side  

> of the bearing  bore....in the wheel itself....so future bearing  

> removals will go  easier without damage.

>

> If bearings are not available with the proper ID for your 0.500"   

> axle...my bearing dealer couldn't find them...here's what I did.  

> I  used a length of steel tubing that fit the shaft, and the  

> bearings,  and cut it to a length equal to the distance measured  

> between the  outside of the new bearings installed into the new  

> Spruce wheel PLUS  about 5 thousandths of an inch... 

> 0.005".....This extra length will  allow the nut and washer to  

> tighten onto the sleeve, and not the  inner race of the bearings,  

> which will put a sideways load on those  bearings and ruin them  

> after a while. Ideally, this inner sleeve  would have a sleeve  

> slipped over it, its length equal to the  measurement between the  

> inner races of the bearings. Then the  tightening of the nut onto  

> the axle would put pressure against the  inner race of the outer  

> bearing, against the sleeve, then against the  inner race of the  

> inner bearing. In practice however, I've found that  this  

> elaborateness (if that's a word) isn't necessary.

> Lynn Matteson

> Grass Lake, Michigan

> Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

> flying w/480+ hrs

>

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

Rex Hefferan

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 147
Location: Olney Springs, Colorado USA "NOT a Kitpig"

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:04 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Hi Lynn,

 I've been researching the archives and found several posts about the 

swap including that one. I'm compiling the pertinent details and will 

use that and my learning experience as I do it myself to create the 

content for the Wiki.

 I also thought I might reuse the Maule felt washer and maybe get 

another for the other side. The small gap between the tube spacer and 

inner bearing races will permit some grease to slowly migrate and fling 

if you used bearing that required adding grease inside the hub. The 

Maule 3 screw hub cap certainly kept that side clean. I haven't yet put 

much thought into that. However, with lifetime grease/sealed bearings we 

shouldn't need a grease seal. I'm thinking about how modern motorcycle 

wheels are put together and they go many thousands of miles without 

bearing service.

 Lowell posted  http://www.bocabearings.com/  and p/n: R1621-2RSNR for 

about $18 each, which seem to meet all the requirements. I would still 

need to fabricate an interior spacer to be installed between the inner 

bearing races. On my way to the bearing shop.



-- 

Rex Hefferan

SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

Lynn Matteson wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 No grease seal. I left the felt washer in place against the back side  

 of the wheel, and as I recall, the bearings I got were sealed on the  

 outside...maybe even lifetime greased/sealed. See my post of March  

 13, for a picture of the new wheel under " Trailering my Kitfox/ 

 tailwheel"

 If I could ever get to cleaning up my "nest", I might find some of  

 the paperwork including the bills and part numbers for the stuff I  

 put into the plane. : )



 Lynn

_________________
Rex
N740GP - M2/582
Colorado

patreilly43(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:45 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Rex, Just get the bearings from aircraft Spruce, that they have in the catalog next to the homebuilt wheel. As I said previously they are $4.95 a pair! They are sealed bearings . No additional seals or greasing required.

 Do not archive

 Pat Reilly

 	  Quote: 	
		   Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 12:00:59 -0600

 To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 From: hefferans(at)gmail.com

 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rexinator <hefferans(at)gmail.com>

 Hi Lynn,

 I've been researching the archives and found several posts about the 

 swap including that one. I'm compiling the pertinent details and will 

 use that and my learning experience as I do it myself to create the 

 content for the Wiki.

 I also thought I might reuse the Maule felt washer and maybe get 

 another for the other side. The small gap between the tube spacer and 

 inner bearing races will permit some grease to slowly migrate and fling 

 if you used bearing that required adding grease inside the hub. The 

 Maule 3 screw hub cap certainly kept that side clean. I haven't yet put 

 much thought into that. However, with lifetime grease/sealed bearings we 

 shouldn't need a grease seal. I'm thinking about how modern motorcycle 

 wheels are put together and they go many thousands of miles without 

 bearing service.

 Lowell posted http://www.bocabearings.com/ and p/n: R1621-2RSNR for 

 about $18 each, which seem to meet all the requirements. I would still 

 need to fabricate an interior spacer to be installed between the inner 

 bearing races. On my way to the bearing shop.

 -- 

 Rex Hefferan

 SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

 Lynn Matteson wrote:

 > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 >

 > No grease seal. I left the felt washer in place against the back side 

 > of the wheel, and as I recall, the bearings I got were sealed on the 

 > outside...maybe even lifetime greased/sealed. See my post of March 

 > 13, for a picture of the new wheel under " Trailering my Kitfox/ 

 > tailwheel"

 > If I could ever get to cleaning up my "nest", I might find some of 

 > the paperwork including the bills and part numbers for the stuff I 

 > put into the plane. : )

 >

 > Lynn

 >

 ><

  [quote][b]

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 11:13 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Rex-

I'm not sure what you meant by "The small gap between the tube spacer  

and inner bearing races"...  The way I did it, there is no small gap.  

The tube I used is 5/8" OD and 1/2" ID, and is meant to be used as a  

"shim" between the size of the shaft...1/2", and the ID of the  

bearings that I got, which was 5/8".  The bearings that you cited are  

already 1/2" ID, so the tube spacer is not required as a shim or  

sleeve. If you are using those Boca bearings that you mentioned, no  

sleeve is needed, but maybe you are using it to prevent the inner  

races of the two bearings from undo stress or load, if the nut is  

tightened too much. That is a good idea. But in that circumstance,  

there should be no gap as you mentioned. Am I reading you right?

By the way, for those that haven't done this Spruce Homebuilder's  

tailwheel swap, the bearings that come...or at least those that came  

with my tailwheel from Spruce...are bad news, in that they are rough  

to the feel when turned, and when my departed bearing guy looked up  

the load application, he said they were meant for the speed of a hand  

truck, or loading dolly. And they were Heim bearings....once a good  

name in bearings and maybe still so, but these particular bearings  

don't belong in the tailwheel of our airplanes. These particular  

bearings have a sleeve in them which takes the ID down to 1/2", and  

when replacing these Heim bearings, I could find the proper 1.375" OD  

bearing, but not the .500" ID. The only bearing that was available to  

the bearing dealer that I dealt with was the 1.375" ID, but with . 

625" ID, hence my use of the shim/sleeve to make up the difference in  

diameters between the bearing ID and axle OD. Then, just to simplify  

matters, I made the sleeve sort of become a "diameter-increasing"  

sleeve for the axle, and slid the wheel onto it. My nut then bears  

upon this sleeve, and does not put a sideways load on the inner race  

of the bearings. This is what must be avoided. There can be no  

sideways load on a normal ball bearing. Some ball bearings are  

designed to have a slight load on them, but I don't think they are in  

the $18 range for this size bearing.

Lynn Matteson

Grass Lake, Michigan

Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

flying w/480+ hrs

On Mar 19, 2008, at 2:00 PM, Rexinator wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 Hi Lynn,

 I've been researching the archives and found several posts about  

 the swap including that one. I'm compiling the pertinent details  

 and will use that and my learning experience as I do it myself to  

 create the content for the Wiki.

 I also thought I might reuse the Maule felt washer and maybe get  

 another for the other side. The small gap between the tube spacer  

 and inner bearing races will permit some grease to slowly migrate  

 and fling if you used bearing that required adding grease inside  

 the hub. The Maule 3 screw hub cap certainly kept that side clean.  

 I haven't yet put much thought into that. However, with lifetime  

 grease/sealed bearings we shouldn't need a grease seal. I'm  

 thinking about how modern motorcycle wheels are put together and  

 they go many thousands of miles without bearing service.

 Lowell posted  http://www.bocabearings.com/  and p/n: R1621-2RSNR  

 for about $18 each, which seem to meet all the requirements. I  

 would still need to fabricate an interior spacer to be installed  

 between the inner bearing races. On my way to the bearing shop.

 -- 

 Rex Hefferan

 SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

 Lynn Matteson wrote:

> 

>

> No grease seal. I left the felt washer in place against the back  

> side  of the wheel, and as I recall, the bearings I got were  

> sealed on the  outside...maybe even lifetime greased/sealed. See  

> my post of March  13, for a picture of the new wheel under "  

> Trailering my Kitfox/ tailwheel"

> If I could ever get to cleaning up my "nest", I might find some  

> of  the paperwork including the bills and part numbers for the  

> stuff I  put into the plane. : )

>

> Lynn

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

Rex Hefferan

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 147
Location: Olney Springs, Colorado USA "NOT a Kitpig"

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:50 pm Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Lynn,

 Back from my Bearing shop trip. First I'll answer your question. By 

"gap" I meant that tiny space between the O.D. of the spacer/shim and 

the I.D. of the bearings through which grease would migrate out if the 

wheel were to be used as designed. In other words; as the original Maule 

wheel is designed by having a zerk fitting in the hub. (Where grease in 

injected into the hub, but better bearings were used). Since you used 

sealed bearings the zerk fitting is not needed, but left in place. I 

will recommend the zerk fitting be replaced with a plug and will try to 

source a part for that.

 I plan to replace the existing bearings with the same type as you did, 

but my supplier was able to quote me a comparable bearing at $4 each! I 

actually showed him the print-out from BocaBearings.com and he used the 

same P/N for the quote. He only had one in stock so I'll go back Friday 

to pick them up. I did look at the one he had and it looked like the 

photos. It may be another brand, but should be good. I suspect Boca 

Bearings are over priced. Perhaps someone expert about this subject 

could comment.

He also showed me a reducer bushing which which does the same thing as 

the spacer you and others had to make for the 1/2" to 5/8" difference of 

the axle and bearing I.D. This one was made of a rolled steel tube which 

has a closed seam and is plated. It fits easily (perhaps too easily) in 

the existing cheap bearings of the new wheel, but my application is to 

cut it to length to work as a internal spacer. From your text you show 

understanding of this method. I will also add appropriate washers as 

spacers to prevent the nut or opposite axle shoulder from rubbing 

against the bearing seal. The intent is to capture the wheel/bearing 

assembly on the axle, not clamp it. Thus with any clamping pressure from 

improper assembly the axle nut would not place any undue side load on 

the inner races. Since the axle and nut use a cotter pin the idea is to 

fix the nut at the point where minimal side to side play is attained. 

Shims may be used to fine tune the play. The axle nut (for those not 

aware) is not to be tightened against the bearing or even the spacer.



 Hopefully my description here shows I understand the concept for proper 

wheel bearing assembly. Please, anyone, let me know if it's not clear 

enough as this is practice and preliminary content for the instructions 

to be used for the Wiki page. I will be using photos and will add text 

and arrows to them where it helps.

 Thanks in advance.



-- 

Rex Hefferan

SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

Lynn Matteson wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Rex-

 I'm not sure what you meant by "The small gap between the tube spacer  

 and inner bearing races"...  The way I did it, there is no small gap.  

 The tube I used is 5/8" OD and 1/2" ID, and is meant to be used as a  

 "shim" between the size of the shaft...1/2", and the ID of the  

 bearings that I got, which was 5/8".  The bearings that you cited are  

 already 1/2" ID, so the tube spacer is not required as a shim or  

 sleeve. If you are using those Boca bearings that you mentioned, no  

 sleeve is needed, but maybe you are using it to prevent the inner  

 races of the two bearings from undo stress or load, if the nut is  

 tightened too much. That is a good idea. But in that circumstance,  

 there should be no gap as you mentioned. Am I reading you right?

 By the way, for those that haven't done this Spruce Homebuilder's  

 tailwheel swap, the bearings that come...or at least those that came  

 with my tailwheel from Spruce...are bad news, in that they are rough  

 to the feel when turned, and when my departed bearing guy looked up  

 the load application, he said they were meant for the speed of a hand  

 truck, or loading dolly. And they were Heim bearings....once a good  

 name in bearings and maybe still so, but these particular bearings  

 don't belong in the tailwheel of our airplanes. These particular  

 bearings have a sleeve in them which takes the ID down to 1/2", and  

 when replacing these Heim bearings, I could find the proper 1.375" OD  

 bearing, but not the .500" ID. The only bearing that was available to  

 the bearing dealer that I dealt with was the 1.375" ID, but with . 

 625" ID, hence my use of the shim/sleeve to make up the difference in  

 diameters between the bearing ID and axle OD. Then, just to simplify  

 matters, I made the sleeve sort of become a "diameter-increasing"  

 sleeve for the axle, and slid the wheel onto it. My nut then bears  

 upon this sleeve, and does not put a sideways load on the inner race  

 of the bearings. This is what must be avoided. There can be no  

 sideways load on a normal ball bearing. Some ball bearings are  

 designed to have a slight load on them, but I don't think they are in  

 the $18 range for this size bearing.



 Lynn Matteson

 Grass Lake, Michigan

 Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

 flying w/480+ hrs

_________________
Rex
N740GP - M2/582
Colorado

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:51 pm Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Thanks, Rex. Good info. But there isn't a gap in mine, and if there  

was, the inner race of the bearing might rotate around the spacer/ 

shim, instead of being fixed to the spacer/shim as it should be. The  

inner race-to-shim fit must be a good push fit, not sloppy in any  

way. I hope I'm not misinterpreting you.

Now I have a question for anybody that has ordered the Spruce  

"longlife sealed ball bearings."  Did you, Pat? I'm curious about the  

size of the ID of these bearings. Did you still need the shim/spacer,  

or was the ID of these bearings .500" to fit the Maule axle?

I had ordered the replacement "bearings"...plural...thinking that I  

was getting two bearings, and only one showed up. I was so pissed  

that I went to my local bearing dealer and bought  bearings there,  

and returned the one that Spruce sent with a complaint about their  

poor description. Now I'm curious about whether those bearings were a  

direct fit to the Maule axle or not. If they are, there's no need for  

the tubing shim/spacer.

Lynn Matteson

Grass Lake, Michigan

Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

flying w/480+ hrs

On Mar 19, 2008, at 10:46 PM, Rexinator wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 Lynn,

 Back from my Bearing shop trip. First I'll answer your question. By  

 "gap" I meant that tiny space between the O.D. of the spacer/shim  

 and the I.D. of the bearings through which grease would migrate out  

 if the wheel were to be used as designed. In other words; as the  

 original Maule wheel is designed by having a zerk fitting in the  

 hub. (Where grease in injected into the hub, but better bearings  

 were used). Since you used sealed bearings the zerk fitting is not  

 needed, but left in place. I will recommend the zerk fitting be  

 replaced with a plug and will try to source a part for that.

 I plan to replace the existing bearings with the same type as you  

 did, but my supplier was able to quote me a comparable bearing at  

 $4 each! I actually showed him the print-out from BocaBearings.com  

 and he used the same P/N for the quote. He only had one in stock so  

 I'll go back Friday to pick them up. I did look at the one he had  

 and it looked like the photos. It may be another brand, but should  

 be good. I suspect Boca Bearings are over priced. Perhaps someone  

 expert about this subject could comment.

 He also showed me a reducer bushing which which does the same thing  

 as the spacer you and others had to make for the 1/2" to 5/8"  

 difference of the axle and bearing I.D. This one was made of a  

 rolled steel tube which has a closed seam and is plated. It fits  

 easily (perhaps too easily) in the existing cheap bearings of the  

 new wheel, but my application is to cut it to length to work as a  

 internal spacer. From your text you show understanding of this  

 method. I will also add appropriate washers as spacers to prevent  

 the nut or opposite axle shoulder from rubbing against the bearing  

 seal. The intent is to capture the wheel/bearing assembly on the  

 axle, not clamp it. Thus with any clamping pressure from improper  

 assembly the axle nut would not place any undue side load on the  

 inner races. Since the axle and nut use a cotter pin the idea is to  

 fix the nut at the point where minimal side to side play is  

 attained. Shims may be used to fine tune the play. The axle nut  

 (for those not aware) is not to be tightened against the bearing or  

 even the spacer.

 Hopefully my description here shows I understand the concept for  

 proper wheel bearing assembly. Please, anyone, let me know if it's  

 not clear enough as this is practice and preliminary content for  

 the instructions to be used for the Wiki page. I will be using  

 photos and will add text and arrows to them where it helps.

 Thanks in advance.

 -- 

 Rex Hefferan

 SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

 Lynn Matteson wrote:

> 

>

> Rex-

> I'm not sure what you meant by "The small gap between the tube  

> spacer  and inner bearing races"...  The way I did it, there is no  

> small gap.  The tube I used is 5/8" OD and 1/2" ID, and is meant  

> to be used as a  "shim" between the size of the shaft...1/2", and  

> the ID of the  bearings that I got, which was 5/8".  The bearings  

> that you cited are  already 1/2" ID, so the tube spacer is not  

> required as a shim or  sleeve. If you are using those Boca  

> bearings that you mentioned, no  sleeve is needed, but maybe you  

> are using it to prevent the inner  races of the two bearings from  

> undo stress or load, if the nut is  tightened too much. That is a  

> good idea. But in that circumstance,  there should be no gap as  

> you mentioned. Am I reading you right?

> By the way, for those that haven't done this Spruce Homebuilder's   

> tailwheel swap, the bearings that come...or at least those that  

> came  with my tailwheel from Spruce...are bad news, in that they  

> are rough  to the feel when turned, and when my departed bearing  

> guy looked up  the load application, he said they were meant for  

> the speed of a hand  truck, or loading dolly. And they were Heim  

> bearings....once a good  name in bearings and maybe still so, but  

> these particular bearings  don't belong in the tailwheel of our  

> airplanes. These particular  bearings have a sleeve in them which  

> takes the ID down to 1/2", and  when replacing these Heim  

> bearings, I could find the proper 1.375" OD  bearing, but not the . 

> 500" ID. The only bearing that was available to  the bearing  

> dealer that I dealt with was the 1.375" ID, but with . 625" ID,  

> hence my use of the shim/sleeve to make up the difference in   

> diameters between the bearing ID and axle OD. Then, just to  

> simplify  matters, I made the sleeve sort of become a "diameter- 

> increasing"  sleeve for the axle, and slid the wheel onto it. My  

> nut then bears  upon this sleeve, and does not put a sideways load  

> on the inner race  of the bearings. This is what must be avoided.  

> There can be no  sideways load on a normal ball bearing. Some ball  

> bearings are  designed to have a slight load on them, but I don't  

> think they are in  the $18 range for this size bearing.

>

> Lynn Matteson

> Grass Lake, Michigan

> Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

> flying w/480+ hrs

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

Rex Hefferan

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 147
Location: Olney Springs, Colorado USA "NOT a Kitpig"

Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 8:26 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

I'm certainly susceptable of needing correction. Just to get our 

semantics right, as I understand it the inner race should have a snug 

fit, meaning close tolerance such that it will slide onto the lightly 

greased axle shaft with a little resistance. That could be called "a 

good push fit" as you say so we may be talking the same difference. 

 Just to use another term, we don't want a press fit (or interference 

fit) however slight. We want the inner bearing races to find their own 

centers, so to speak, as the wheel turns. I also agree with "not sloppy 

in any way". So the gap I keep mentioning is the close tolerence fit 

which in my understanding could allow grease (if injected into the 

cavity between the bearings) to work it's way out to attract dirt and 

fling onto the plane.



 I noticed on my last message that I should have clarified that I have 

settled on using the 1/2" I.D. bearing set and will use the off the 

shelf reducer bushing cut down to act as an internal spacer (also I 

think called a "distance collar"). I could probably leave it out, but it 

seems like a good idea for the reason of fool proofing the assembly 

against a too tight axle nut. Also removing the zerk would prevent 

useless grease injection by someone who didn't know better.



Another thought I might mention in my proposed Wiki entry:

Someone may ask, "Why roller bearings?" I can see in my mind how the 

tailwheel will experience some minor and brief side loads which will be 

tolerated better by roller bearings as opposed to needle bearings. 

Tapered roller bearings would be unnessesary overkill.



 It's seems I may write my Wiki entry to include enough concept 

information so that I try to impart whatever intuitive mechcanical 

understanding I think I have. Maybe that's not the best approach. Too 

much information. Probably already. I'll try to shut up about this and 

let you all know when the Wiki has been posted for ridicule. Ha HA!

Any comments?



-- 

Rex Hefferan

SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

 



Lynn Matteson wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Thanks, Rex. Good info. But there isn't a gap in mine, and if there  

 was, the inner race of the bearing might rotate around the spacer/ 

 shim, instead of being fixed to the spacer/shim as it should be. The  

 inner race-to-shim fit must be a good push fit, not sloppy in any  

 way. I hope I'm not misinterpreting you.



 Now I have a question for anybody that has ordered the Spruce  

 "longlife sealed ball bearings."  Did you, Pat? I'm curious about the  

 size of the ID of these bearings. Did you still need the shim/spacer,  

 or was the ID of these bearings .500" to fit the Maule axle?

 I had ordered the replacement "bearings"...plural...thinking that I  

 was getting two bearings, and only one showed up. I was so pissed  

 that I went to my local bearing dealer and bought  bearings there,  

 and returned the one that Spruce sent with a complaint about their  

 poor description. Now I'm curious about whether those bearings were a  

 direct fit to the Maule axle or not. If they are, there's no need for  

 the tubing shim/spacer.

 Lynn Matteson

 Grass Lake, Michigan

 Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

 flying w/480+ hrs

_________________
Rex
N740GP - M2/582
Colorado

Guy Buchanan

Joined: 16 Jul 2006
Posts: 1204
Location: Ramona, CA

Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:07 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

At 07:46 PM 3/19/2008, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Hopefully my description here shows I understand the concept for 

proper wheel bearing assembly. Please, anyone, let me know if it's 

not clear enough as this is practice and preliminary content for the 

instructions to be used for the Wiki page. I will be using photos 

and will add text and arrows to them where it helps.


	


         YEAY! Thanks for setting the good example Rex with regards 

to the Wiki page. I had high hopes of contributions myself until I 

started getting hammered by my dial-up bandwidth. (One day soon I 

hope to enter the 21st century.)

Guy Buchanan

San Diego, CA

K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.

_________________
Guy Buchanan
Deceased K-IV 1200
A glider pilot too.

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:50 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Where did the notion of roller bearings come from? And for that  

matter needle bearings?

When you say  ....Someone may ask, "Why roller bearings?" ....This  

seems to imply that you are going to mention roller bearings...are you?

In my shadetree engineers mind, ball bearings are the only bearings  

suitable for the tailwheel of the Kitfox. As you said tapered  

roller...such as those used in the front wheels of cars and trucks  

(maybe not in front wheel drive vehicles) are meant to take a higher  

side load, and would be overkill.



Lynn Matteson

Grass Lake, Michigan

Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

flying w/480+ hrs

do not archive

On Mar 20, 2008, at 12:23 PM, Rexinator wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Another thought I might mention in my proposed Wiki entry:

 Someone may ask, "Why roller bearings?" I can see in my mind how  

 the tailwheel will experience some minor and brief side loads which  

 will be tolerated better by roller bearings as opposed to needle  

 bearings. Tapered roller bearings would be unnessesary overkill.

 -- 

 Rex Hefferan

 SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs



 Lynn Matteson wrote:



> 

>

> Thanks, Rex. Good info. But there isn't a gap in mine, and if  

> there  was, the inner race of the bearing might rotate around the  

> spacer/ shim, instead of being fixed to the spacer/shim as it  

> should be. The  inner race-to-shim fit must be a good push fit,  

> not sloppy in any  way. I hope I'm not misinterpreting you.

>

> Now I have a question for anybody that has ordered the Spruce   

> "longlife sealed ball bearings."  Did you, Pat? I'm curious about  

> the  size of the ID of these bearings. Did you still need the shim/ 

> spacer,  or was the ID of these bearings .500" to fit the Maule axle?

> I had ordered the replacement "bearings"...plural...thinking that  

> I  was getting two bearings, and only one showed up. I was so  

> pissed  that I went to my local bearing dealer and bought   

> bearings there,  and returned the one that Spruce sent with a  

> complaint about their  poor description. Now I'm curious about  

> whether those bearings were a  direct fit to the Maule axle or  

> not. If they are, there's no need for  the tubing shim/spacer.

> Lynn Matteson

> Grass Lake, Michigan

> Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

> flying w/480+ hrs

>

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

Rex Hefferan

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 147
Location: Olney Springs, Colorado USA "NOT a Kitpig"

Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 10:14 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Right. I meant to say Ball bearings. I guess I'm short a ball in my 

race.    (just made that up)

 I'll probably not use that whole dialog.

Rex



Lynn Matteson wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Where did the notion of roller bearings come from? And for that  

 matter needle bearings?

 When you say  ....Someone may ask, "Why roller bearings?" ....This  

 seems to imply that you are going to mention roller bearings...are you?

 In my shadetree engineers mind, ball bearings are the only bearings  

 suitable for the tailwheel of the Kitfox. As you said tapered  

 roller...such as those used in the front wheels of cars and trucks  

 (maybe not in front wheel drive vehicles) are meant to take a higher  

 side load, and would be overkill.



 Lynn Matteson

 Grass Lake, Michigan

 Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

 flying w/480+ hrs

 do not archive

 On Mar 20, 2008, at 12:23 PM, Rexinator wrote:



> Another thought I might mention in my proposed Wiki entry:

> Someone may ask, "Why roller bearings?" I can see in my mind how  the 

> tailwheel will experience some minor and brief side loads which  will 

> be tolerated better by roller bearings as opposed to needle  

> bearings. Tapered roller bearings would be unnessesary overkill.

> -- 

> Rex Hefferan

> SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

>

> Lynn Matteson wrote:

>

>> 

>>

>> Thanks, Rex. Good info. But there isn't a gap in mine, and if  

>> there  was, the inner race of the bearing might rotate around the  

>> spacer/ shim, instead of being fixed to the spacer/shim as it  

>> should be. The  inner race-to-shim fit must be a good push fit,  not 

>> sloppy in any  way. I hope I'm not misinterpreting you.

>>

>> Now I have a question for anybody that has ordered the Spruce   

>> "longlife sealed ball bearings."  Did you, Pat? I'm curious about  

>> the  size of the ID of these bearings. Did you still need the shim/ 

>> spacer,  or was the ID of these bearings .500" to fit the Maule axle?

>> I had ordered the replacement "bearings"...plural...thinking that  

>> I  was getting two bearings, and only one showed up. I was so  

>> pissed  that I went to my local bearing dealer and bought   bearings 

>> there,  and returned the one that Spruce sent with a  complaint 

>> about their  poor description. Now I'm curious about  whether those 

>> bearings were a  direct fit to the Maule axle or  not. If they are, 

>> there's no need for  the tubing shim/spacer.

>>

>>

>> Lynn Matteson

>> Grass Lake, Michigan

>> Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

>> flying w/480+ hrs

>>

>






	


-- 

Rex Hefferan

SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

_________________
Rex
N740GP - M2/582
Colorado

patreilly43(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 1:55 pm Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Lynn, I ordered 2 of the bearings. (at) bearing arrived in a seperate plastic package that could be cut apart but mine were still together. ACS charged $4.95 for both, not each. I couldn't believe it. The bearings are sealed and look to be good quality. That is dirt cheap. The bearings still needed a shim to fit down to the axle diameter. I filed and polished until I got a good tight slip fit. I really don't know how much I took off of the bushing OD, as I didn't mic it before I started.

  

 Pat Reilly

 Mod 3 REbuild

 Rockford, IL 



 	  Quote: 	
		   From: lynnmatt(at)jps.net

 Subject: Re: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:49:19 -0400

 To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 

 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 

 Thanks, Rex. Good info. But there isn't a gap in mine, and if there 

 was, the inner race of the bearing might rotate around the spacer/ 

 shim, instead of being fixed to the spacer/shim as it should be. The 

 inner race-to-shim fit must be a good push fit, not sloppy in any 

 way. I hope I'm not misinterpreting you.

 

 Now I have a question for anybody that has ordered the Spruce 

 "longlife sealed ball bearings." Did you, Pat? I'm curious about the 

 size of the ID of these bearings. Did you still need the shim/spacer, 

 or was the ID of these bearings .500" to fit the Maule axle?

 I had ordered the replacement "bearings"...plural...thinking that I 

 was getting two bearings, and only one showed up. I was so pissed 

 that I went to my local bearing dealer and bought bearings there, 

 and returned the one that Spruce sent with a complaint about their 

 poor description. Now I'm curious about whether those bearings were a 

 direct fit to the Maule axle or not. If they are, there's no need for 

 the tubing shim/spacer.

 

 

 Lynn Matteson

 Grass Lake, Michigan

 Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 flying w/480+ hrs

 

 

 

 On Mar 19, 2008, at 10:46 PM, Rexinator wrote:

 

 > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rexinator <hefferans(at)gmail.com>

 >

 > Lynn,

 > Back from my Bearing shop trip. First I'll answer your question. By 

 > "gap" I meant that tiny space between the O.D. of the spacer/shim 

 > and the I.D. of the bearings through which grease would migrate out 

 > if the wheel were to be used as designed. In other words; as the 

 > original Maule wheel is designed by having a zerk fitting in the 

 > hub. (Where grease in injected into the hub, but better bearings 

 > were used). Since you used sealed bearings the zerk fitting is not 

 > needed, but left in place. I will recommend the zerk fitting be 

 > replaced with a plug and will try to source a part for that.

 > I plan to replace the existing bearings with the same type as you 

 > did, but my supplier was able to quote me a comparable bearing at 

 > $4 each! I actually showed him the print-out from BocaBearings.com 

 > and he used the same P/N for the quote. He only had one in stock so 

 > I'll go back Friday to pick them up. I did look at the one he had 

 > and it looked like the photos. It may be another brand, but should 

 > be good. I suspect Boca Bearings are over priced. Perhaps someone 

 > expert about this subject could comment.

 > He also showed me a reducer bushing which which does the same thing 

 > as the spacer you and others had to make for the 1/2" to 5/8" 

 > difference of the axle and bearing I.D. This one was made of a 

 > rolled steel tube which has a closed seam and is plated. It fits 

 > easily (perhaps too easily) in the existing cheap bearings of the 

 > new wheel, but my application is to cut it to length to work as a 

 > internal spacer. From your text you show understanding of this 

 > method. I will also add appropriate washers as spacers to prevent 

 > the nut or opposite axle shoulder from rubbing against the bearing 

 > seal. The intent is to capture the wheel/bearing assembly on the 

 > axle, not clamp it. Thus with any clamping pressure from improper 

 > assembly the axle nut would not place any undue side load on the 

 > inner races. Since the axle and nut use a cotter pin the idea is to 

 > fix the nut at the point where minimal side to side play is 

 > attained. Shims may be used to fine tune the play. The axle nut 

 > (for those not aware) is not to be tightened against the bearing or 

 > even the spacer.

 >

 > Hopefully my description here shows I understand the concept for 

 > proper wheel bearing assembly. Please, anyone, let me know if it's 

 > not clear enough as this is practice and preliminary content for 

 > the instructions to be used for the Wiki page. I will be using 

 > photos and will add text and arrows to them where it helps.

 > Thanks in advance.

 >

 > -- 

 > Rex Hefferan

 > SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

 >

 >

 > Lynn Matteson wrote:

 >

 >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 >>

 >> Rex-

 >> I'm not sure what you meant by "The small gap between the tube 

 >> spacer and inner bearing races"... The way I did it, there is no 

 >> small gap. The tube I used is 5/8" OD and 1/2" ID, and is meant 

 >> to be used as a "shim" between the size of the shaft...1/2", and 

 >> the ID of the bearings that I got, which was 5/8". The bearings 

 >> that you cited are already 1/2" ID, so the tube spacer is not 

 >> required as a shim or sleeve. If you are using those Boca 

 >> bearings that you mentioned, no sleeve is needed, but maybe you 

 >> are using it to prevent the inner races of the two bearings from 

 >> undo stress or load, if the nut is tightened too much. That is a 

 >> good idea. But in that circumstance, there should be no gap as 

 >> you mentioned. Am I reading you right?

 >> By the way, for those that haven't done this Spruce Homebuilder's 

 >> tailwheel swap, the bearings that come...or at least those that 

 >> came with my tailwheel from Spruce...are bad news, in that they 

 >> are rough to the feel when turned, and when my departed bearing 

 >> guy looked up the load application, he said they were meant for 

 >> the speed of a hand truck, or loading dolly. And they were Heim 

 >> bearings...once a good name in bearings and maybe still so, but 

 >> these particular bearings don't belong in the tailwheel of our 

 >> airplanes. These particular bearings have a sleeve in them which 

 >> takes the ID down to 1/2", and when replacing these Heim 

 >> bearings, I could find the proper 1.375" OD bearing, but not the . 

 >> 500" ID. The only bearing that was available to the bearing 

 >> dealer that I dealt with was the 1.375" ID, but with . 625" ID, 

 >> hence my use of the shim/sleeve to make up the difference in 

 >> diameters between the bearing ID and axle OD. Then, just to 

 >> simplify matters, I made the sleeve sort of become a "diameter- 

 >> increasing" sleeve for the axle, and slid the wheel onto it. My 

 >> nut then bears upon this sleeve, and does not put a sideways load 

 >> on the inner race of the bearings. This is what must be avoided. 

 >> There can be no sideways load on a normal ball bearing. Some ball 

 >> bearings are designed to have a slight load on them, but I don't 

 >> think they are in the $18 range for this size bearing.

 >>

 >> Lynn Matteson

 >> Grass Lake, Michigan

 >> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 >> flying w/480+ hrs

 >

 >

 >

 >

 &======

 

 

 


	


  [quote][b]

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 3:33 pm Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Well, wonder of wonders, Spruce finally got it right! Or did they?  

When I ordered mine, taking the description "bearings" to heart, I  

only got one, thinking it should be two, and returned it without  

thinking to see if it had a sleeve in it or not.

Good report, Pat,  but I think people who order the replacement  

bearings should ask if they are going to get one or two bearings.



I seem to be having a problem with getting the "right stuff" from  

Spruce....I just received an order which included 6 brass instrument  

screws of 6-32 size. I only needed 4, but knowing their penchant for  

screwing up, I ordered 2 extras. Guess what? They sent 4  8-32's and  

2  6-32's. The proper ones are on the way, after a phone call.  

Whenever I order from them, if it's only hardware items, I order  

extra, but this time they really screwed the pooch....and I was the  

pooch. : )



Lynn Matteson

Grass Lake, Michigan

Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

flying w/480+ hrs

do not archive

On Mar 20, 2008, at 5:52 PM, patrick reilly wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Lynn, I ordered 2 of the bearings. (at) bearing arrived in a seperate  

 plastic package that could be cut apart but mine were still  

 together. ACS charged $4.95 for both, not each. I couldn't believe  

 it. The bearings are sealed and look to be good quality. That is  

 dirt cheap. The bearings still needed a shim to fit down to the  

 axle diameter. I filed and polished until I got a good tight slip  

 fit. I really don't know how much I took off of the bushing OD, as  

 I didn't mic it before I started.



 Pat Reilly

 Mod 3 REbuild

 Rockford, IL



 > From: lynnmatt(at)jps.net

 > Subject: Re: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 > Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:49:19 -0400

 > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 >

 > 

 >

 > Thanks, Rex. Good info. But there isn't a gap in mine, and if there

 > was, the inner race of the bearing might rotate around the spacer/

 > shim, instead of being fixed to the spacer/shim as it should be. The

 > inner race-to-shim fit must be a good push fit, not sloppy in any

 > way. I hope I'm not misinterpreting you.

 >

 > Now I have a question for anybody that has ordered the Spruce

 > "longlife sealed ball bearings." Did you, Pat? I'm curious about the

 > size of the ID of these bearings. Did you still need the shim/ 

 spacer,

 > or was the ID of these bearings .500" to fit the Maule axle?

 > I had ordered the replacement "bearings"...plural...thinking that I

 > was getting two bearings, and only one showed up. I was so pissed

 > that I went to my local bearing dealer and bought bearings there,

 > and returned the one that Spruce sent with a complaint about their

 > poor description. Now I'm curious about whether those bearings  

 were a

 > direct fit to the Maule axle or not. If they are, there's no need  

 for

 > the tubing shim/spacer.

 >

 >

 > Lynn Matteson

 > Grass Lake, Michigan

 > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 > flying w/480+ hrs

 >

 >

 >

 > On Mar 19, 2008, at 10:46 PM, Rexinator wrote:

 >

 > > 

 > >

 > > Lynn,

 > > Back from my Bearing shop trip. First I'll answer your  

 question. By

 > > "gap" I meant that tiny space between the O.D. of the spacer/shim

 > > and the I.D. of the bearings through which grease would migrate  

 out

 > > if the wheel were to be used as designed. In other words; as the

 > > original Maule wheel is designed by having a zerk fitting in the

 > > hub. (Where grease in injected into the hub, but better bearings

 > > were used). Since you used sealed bearings the zerk fitting is not

 > > needed, but left in place. I will recommend the zerk fitting be

 > > replaced with a plug and will try to source a part for that.

 > > I plan to replace the existing bearings with the same type as you

 > > did, but my supplier was able to quote me a comparable bearing at

 > > $4 each! I actually showed him the print-out from BocaBearings.com

 > > and he used the same P/N for the quote. He only had one in  

 stock so

 > > I'll go back Friday to pick them up. I did look at the one he had

 > > and it looked like the photos. It may be another brand, but should

 > > be good. I suspect Boca Bearings are over priced. Perhaps someone

 > > expert about this subject could comment.

 > > He also showed me a reducer bushing which which does the same  

 thing

 > > as the spacer you and others had to make for the 1/2" to 5/8"

 > > difference of the axle and bearing I.D. This one was made of a

 > > rolled steel tube which has a closed seam and is plated. It fits

 > > easily (perhaps too easily) in the existing cheap bearings of the

 > > new wheel, but my application is to cut it to length to work as a

 > > internal spacer. From your text you show understanding of this

 > > method. I will also add appropriate washers as spacers to prevent

 > > the nut or opposite axle shoulder from rubbing against the bearing

 > > seal. The intent is to capture the wheel/bearing assembly on the

 > > axle, not clamp it. Thus with any clamping pressure from improper

 > > assembly the axle nut would not place any undue side load on the

 > > inner races. Since the axle and nut use a cotter pin the idea  

 is to

 > > fix the nut at the point where minimal side to side play is

 > > attained. Shims may be used to fine tune the play. The axle nut

 > > (for those not aware) is not to be tightened against the  

 bearing or

 > > even the spacer.

 > >

 > > Hopefully my description here shows I understand the concept for

 > > proper wheel bearing assembly. Please, anyone, let me know if it's

 > > not clear enough as this is practice and preliminary content for

 > > the instructions to be used for the Wiki page. I will be using

 > > photos and will add text and arrows to them where it helps.

 > > Thanks in advance.

 > >

 > > --

 > > Rex Hefferan

 > > SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

 > >

 > >

 > > Lynn Matteson wrote:

 > >

 > >> 

 <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 > >>

 > >> Rex-

 > >> I'm not sure what you meant by "The small gap between the tube

 > >> spacer and inner bearing races"... The way I did it, there is no

 > >> small gap. The tube I used is 5/8" OD and 1/2" ID, and is meant

 > >> to be used as a "shim" between the size of the shaft...1/2", and

 > >> the ID of the bearings that I got, which was 5/8". The bearings

 > >> that you cited are already 1/2" ID, so the tube spacer is not

 > >> required as a shim or sleeve. If you are using those Boca

 > >> bearings that you mentioned, no sleeve is needed, but maybe you

 > >> are using it to prevent the inner races of the two bearings from

 > >> undo stress or load, if the nut is tightened too much. That is a

 > >> good idea. But in that circumstance, there should be no gap as

 > >> you mentioned. Am I reading you right?

 > >> By the way, for those that haven't done this Spruce Homebuilder's

 > >> tailwheel swap, the bearings that come...or at least those that

 > >> came with my tailwheel from Spruce...are bad news, in that they

 > >> are rough to the feel when turned, and when my departed bearing

 > >> guy looked up the load application, he said they were meant for

 > >> the speed of a hand truck, or loading dolly. And they were Heim

 > >> bearings....once a good name in bearings and maybe still so, but

 > >> these particular bearings don't belong in the tailwheel of our

 > >> airplanes. These particular bearings have a sleeve in them which

 > >> takes the ID down to 1/2", and when replacing these Heim

 > >> bearings, I could find the proper 1.375" OD bearing, but not  

 the .

 > >> 500" ID. The only bearing that was available to the bearing

 > >> dealer that I dealt with was the 1.375" ID, but with . 625" ID,

 > >> hence my use of the shim/sleeve to make up the difference in

 > >> diameters between the bearing ID and axle OD. Then, just to

 > >> simplify matters, I made the sleeve sort of become a "diameter-

 > >> increasing" sleeve for the axle, and slid the wheel onto it. My

 > >> nut then bears upon this sleeve, and does not put a sideways load

 > >> on the inner race of the bearings. This is what must be avoided.

 > >> There can be no sideways load on a normal ball bearing. Some ball

 > >> bearings are designed to have a slight load on them, but I don't

 > >> think they are in the $18 range for this size bearing.

 > >>

 > >> Lynn Matteson

 > >> Grass Lake, Michigan

 > >> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 > >> flying w/480+ hrs

 > >

 > >

 > >

 > >

 > &======

 >

 >

 >



 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_- 

 ============================================================ _- 

 forums.matronics.com_- 

 ============================================================ _- 

 contribution_- 

 ============================================================

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

patreilly43(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 6:27 pm Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Lynn, I need some of those 6-32 instrument screws. WHere in the ACS catalog did you find them? I looked and didn't see them.

  

 Pat



 	  Quote: 	
		   From: lynnmatt(at)jps.net

 Subject: Re: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 19:29:52 -0400

 To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 

 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 

 Well, wonder of wonders, Spruce finally got it right! Or did they? 

 When I ordered mine, taking the description "bearings" to heart, I 

 only got one, thinking it should be two, and returned it without 

 thinking to see if it had a sleeve in it or not.

 Good report, Pat, but I think people who order the replacement 

 bearings should ask if they are going to get one or two bearings.

 

 I seem to be having a problem with getting the "right stuff" from 

 Spruce...I just received an order which included 6 brass instrument 

 screws of 6-32 size. I only needed 4, but knowing their penchant for 

 screwing up, I ordered 2 extras. Guess what? They sent 4 8-32's and 

 2 6-32's. The proper ones are on the way, after a phone call. 

 Whenever I order from them, if it's only hardware items, I order 

 extra, but this time they really screwed the pooch....and I was the 

 pooch. : )

 

 Lynn Matteson

 Grass Lake, Michigan

 Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 flying w/480+ hrs

 do not archive

 

 

 On Mar 20, 2008, at 5:52 PM, patrick reilly wrote:

 

 > Lynn, I ordered 2 of the bearings. (at) bearing arrived in a seperate 

 > plastic package that could be cut apart but mine were still 

 > together. ACS charged $4.95 for both, not each. I couldn't believe 

 > it. The bearings are sealed and look to be good quality. That is 

 > dirt cheap. The bearings still needed a shim to fit down to the 

 > axle diameter. I filed and polished until I got a good tight slip 

 > fit. I really don't know how much I took off of the bushing OD, as 

 > I didn't mic it before I started.

 >

 > Pat Reilly

 > Mod 3 REbuild

 > Rockford, IL

 >

 > > From: lynnmatt(at)jps.net

 > > Subject: Re: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 > > Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:49:19 -0400

 > > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 > >

 > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 > >

 > > Thanks, Rex. Good info. But there isn't a gap in mine, and if there

 > > was, the inner race of the bearing might rotate around the spacer/

 > > shim, instead of being fixed to the spacer/shim as it should be. The

 > > inner race-to-shim fit must be a good push fit, not sloppy in any

 > > way. I hope I'm not misinterpreting you.

 > >

 > > Now I have a question for anybody that has ordered the Spruce

 > > "longlife sealed ball bearings." Did you, Pat? I'm curious about the

 > > size of the ID of these bearings. Did you still need the shim/ 

 > spacer,

 > > or was the ID of these bearings .500" to fit the Maule axle?

 > > I had ordered the replacement "bearings"...plural...thinking that I

 > > was getting two bearings, and only one showed up. I was so pissed

 > > that I went to my local bearing dealer and bought bearings there,

 > > and returned the one that Spruce sent with a complaint about their

 > > poor description. Now I'm curious about whether those bearings 

 > were a

 > > direct fit to the Maule axle or not. If they are, there's no need 

 > for

 > > the tubing shim/spacer.

 > >

 > >

 > > Lynn Matteson

 > > Grass Lake, Michigan

 > > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 > > flying w/480+ hrs

 > >

 > >

 > >

 > > On Mar 19, 2008, at 10:46 PM, Rexinator wrote:

 > >

 > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rexinator <hefferans(at)gmail.com>

 > > >

 > > > Lynn,

 > > > Back from my Bearing shop trip. First I'll answer your 

 > question. By

 > > > "gap" I meant that tiny space between the O.D. of the spacer/shim

 > > > and the I.D. of the bearings through which grease would migrate 

 > out

 > > > if the wheel were to be used as designed. In other words; as the

 > > > original Maule wheel is designed by having a zerk fitting in the

 > > > hub. (Where grease in injected into the hub, but better bearings

 > > > were used). Since you used sealed bearings the zerk fitting is not

 > > > needed, but left in place. I will recommend the zerk fitting be

 > > > replaced with a plug and will try to source a part for that.

 > > > I plan to replace the existing bearings with the same type as you

 > > > did, but my supplier was able to quote me a comparable bearing at

 > > > $4 each! I actually showed him the print-out from BocaBearings.com

 > > > and he used the same P/N for the quote. He only had one in 

 > stock so

 > > > I'll go back Friday to pick them up. I did look at the one he had

 > > > and it looked like the photos. It may be another brand, but should

 > > > be good. I suspect Boca Bearings are over priced. Perhaps someone

 > > > expert about this subject could comment.

 > > > He also showed me a reducer bushing which which does the same 

 > thing

 > > > as the spacer you and others had to make for the 1/2" to 5/8"

 > > > difference of the axle and bearing I.D. This one was made of a

 > > > rolled steel tube which has a closed seam and is plated. It fits

 > > > easily (perhaps too easily) in the existing cheap bearings of the

 > > > new wheel, but my application is to cut it to length to work as a

 > > > internal spacer. From your text you show understanding of this

 > > > method. I will also add appropriate washers as spacers to prevent

 > > > the nut or opposite axle shoulder from rubbing against the bearing

 > > > seal. The intent is to capture the wheel/bearing assembly on the

 > > > axle, not clamp it. Thus with any clamping pressure from improper

 > > > assembly the axle nut would not place any undue side load on the

 > > > inner races. Since the axle and nut use a cotter pin the idea 

 > is to

 > > > fix the nut at the point where minimal side to side play is

 > > > attained. Shims may be used to fine tune the play. The axle nut

 > > > (for those not aware) is not to be tightened against the 

 > bearing or

 > > > even the spacer.

 > > >

 > > > Hopefully my description here shows I understand the concept for

 > > > proper wheel bearing assembly. Please, anyone, let me know if it's

 > > > not clear enough as this is practice and preliminary content for

 > > > the instructions to be used for the Wiki page. I will be using

 > > > photos and will add text and arrows to them where it helps.

 > > > Thanks in advance.

 > > >

 > > > --

 > > > Rex Hefferan

 > > > SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

 > > >

 > > >

 > > > Lynn Matteson wrote:

 > > >

 > > >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson 

 > <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 > > >>

 > > >> Rex-

 > > >> I'm not sure what you meant by "The small gap between the tube

 > > >> spacer and inner bearing races"... The way I did it, there is no

 > > >> small gap. The tube I used is 5/8" OD and 1/2" ID, and is meant

 > > >> to be used as a "shim" between the size of the shaft...1/2", and

 > > >> the ID of the bearings that I got, which was 5/8". The bearings

 > > >> that you cited are already 1/2" ID, so the tube spacer is not

 > > >> required as a shim or sleeve. If you are using those Boca

 > > >> bearings that you mentioned, no sleeve is needed, but maybe you

 > > >> are using it to prevent the inner races of the two bearings from

 > > >> undo stress or load, if the nut is tightened too much. That is a

 > > >> good idea. But in that circumstance, there should be no gap as

 > > >> you mentioned. Am I reading you right?

 > > >> By the way, for those that haven't done this Spruce Homebuilder's

 > > >> tailwheel swap, the bearings that come...or at least those that

 > > >> came with my tailwheel from Spruce...are bad news, in that they

 > > >> are rough to the feel when turned, and when my departed bearing

 > > >> guy looked up the load application, he said they were meant for

 > > >> the speed of a hand truck, or loading dolly. And they were Heim

 > > >> bearings....once a good name in bearings and maybe still so, but

 > > >> these particular bearings don't belong in the tailwheel of our

 > > >> airplanes. These particular bearings have a sleeve in them which

 > > >> takes the ID down to 1/2", and when replacing these Heim

 > > >> bearings, I could find the proper 1.375" OD bearing, but not 

 > the .

 > > >> 500" ID. The only bearing that was available to the bearing

 > > >> dealer that I dealt with was the 1.375" ID, but with . 625" ID,

 > > >> hence my use of the shim/sleeve to make up the difference in

 > > >> diameters between the bearing ID and axle OD. Then, just to

 > > >> simplify matters, I made the sleeve sort of become a "diameter-

 > > >> increasing" sleeve for the axle, and slid the wheel onto it. My

 > > >> nut then bears upon this sleeve, and does not put a sideways load

 > > >> on the inner race of the bearings. This is what must be avoided.

 > > >> There can be no sideways load on a normal ball bearing. Some ball

 > > >> bearings are designed to have a slight load on them, but I don't

 > > >> think they are in the $18 range for this size bearing.

 > > >>

 > > >> Lynn Matteson

 > > >> Grass Lake, Michigan

 > > >> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 > > >> flying w/480+ hrs

 > > >

 > > >

 > > >

 > > >

 > > &======

 > >

 > >

 > >

 >

 > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_- 

 > =================================== _- 

 > forums.matronics.com_- 

 > =================================== _- 

 > contribution_- 

 > ===================================

&g=======================
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 


	


  [quote][b]

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 3:53 am Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

They are listed under "machine screws" in the index, and are on p. 

96.  Not under "brass screws" or "instrument screws" or on the same  

page, or in the same general vicinity as the instruments, as one  

would think, nor are they cross-referenced as one would hope.

Aircraft Spruce could do itself a huge favor and do some cross- 

referencing in their index for us homebuilders, who don't always know  

the proper name for something, myself being the "leader of that  

pack." : )

Lynn Matteson

Grass Lake, Michigan

Kitfox IV Speedster  w/Jabiru 2200

flying w/480+ hrs/down for annual



On Mar 20, 2008, at 10:24 PM, patrick reilly wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Lynn, I need some of those 6-32 instrument screws. WHere in the ACS  

 catalog did you find them? I looked and didn't see them.



 Pat



 > From: lynnmatt(at)jps.net

 > Subject: Re: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 > Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 19:29:52 -0400

 > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 >

 > 

 >

 > Well, wonder of wonders, Spruce finally got it right! Or did they?

 > When I ordered mine, taking the description "bearings" to heart, I

 > only got one, thinking it should be two, and returned it without

 > thinking to see if it had a sleeve in it or not.

 > Good report, Pat, but I think people who order the replacement

 > bearings should ask if they are going to get one or two bearings.

 >

 > I seem to be having a problem with getting the "right stuff" from

 > Spruce....I just received an order which included 6 brass instrument

 > screws of 6-32 size. I only needed 4, but knowing their penchant for

 > screwing up, I ordered 2 extras. Guess what? They sent 4 8-32's and

 > 2 6-32's. The proper ones are on the way, after a phone call.

 > Whenever I order from them, if it's only hardware items, I order

 > extra, but this time they really screwed the pooch....and I was the

 > pooch. : )

 >

 > Lynn Matteson

 > Grass Lake, Michigan

 > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 > flying w/480+ hrs

 > do not archive

 >

 >

 > On Mar 20, 2008, at 5:52 PM, patrick reilly wrote:

 >

 > > Lynn, I ordered 2 of the bearings. (at) bearing arrived in a seperate

 > > plastic package that could be cut apart but mine were still

 > > together. ACS charged $4.95 for both, not each. I couldn't believe

 > > it. The bearings are sealed and look to be good quality. That is

 > > dirt cheap. The bearings still needed a shim to fit down to the

 > > axle diameter. I filed and polished until I got a good tight slip

 > > fit. I really don't know how much I took off of the bushing OD, as

 > > I didn't mic it before I started.

 > >

 > > Pat Reilly

 > > Mod 3 REbuild

 > > Rockford, IL

 > >

 > > > From: lynnmatt(at)jps.net

 > > > Subject: Re: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 > > > Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:49:19 -0400

 > > > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 > > >

 > > > 

 <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 > > >

 > > > Thanks, Rex. Good info. But there isn't a gap in mine, and if  

 there

 > > > was, the inner race of the bearing might rotate around the  

 spacer/

 > > > shim, instead of being fixed to the spacer/shim as it should  

 be. The

 > > > inner race-to-shim fit must be a good push fit, not sloppy in  

 any

 > > > way. I hope I'm not misinterpreting you.

 > > >

 > > > Now I have a question for anybody that has ordered the Spruce

 > > > "longlife sealed ball bearings." Did you, Pat? I'm curious  

 about the

 > > > size of the ID of these bearings. Did you still need the shim/

 > > spacer,

 > > > or was the ID of these bearings .500" to fit the Maule axle?

 > > > I had ordered the replacement "bearings"...plural...thinking  

 that I

 > > > was getting two bearings, and only one showed up. I was so  

 pissed

 > > > that I went to my local bearing dealer and bought bearings  

 there,

 > > > and returned the one that Spruce sent with a complaint about  

 their

 > > > poor description. Now I'm curious about whether those bearings

 > > were a

 > > > direct fit to the Maule axle or not. If they are, there's no  

 need

 > > for

 > > > the tubing shim/spacer.

 > > >

 > > >

 > > > Lynn Matteson

 > > > Grass Lake, Michigan

 > > > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 > > > flying w/480+ hrs

 > > >

 > > >

 > > >

 > > > On Mar 19, 2008, at 10:46 PM, Rexinator wrote:

 > > >

 > > > > 

 <hefferans(at)gmail.com>

 > > > >

 > > > > Lynn,

 > > > > Back from my Bearing shop trip. First I'll answer your

 > > question. By

 > > > > "gap" I meant that tiny space between the O.D. of the  

 spacer/shim

 > > > > and the I.D. of the bearings through which grease would  

 migrate

 > > out

 > > > > if the wheel were to be used as designed. In other words;  

 as the

 > > > > original Maule wheel is designed by having a zerk fitting  

 in the

 > > > > hub. (Where grease in injected into the hub, but better  

 bearings

 > > > > were used). Since you used sealed bearings the zerk fitting  

 is not

 > > > > needed, but left in place. I will recommend the zerk  

 fitting be

 > > > > replaced with a plug and will try to source a part for that.

 > > > > I plan to replace the existing bearings with the same type  

 as you

 > > > > did, but my supplier was able to quote me a comparable  

 bearing at

 > > > > $4 each! I actually showed him the print-out from  

 BocaBearings.com

 > > > > and he used the same P/N for the quote. He only had one in

 > > stock so

 > > > > I'll go back Friday to pick them up. I did look at the one  

 he had

 > > > > and it looked like the photos. It may be another brand, but  

 should

 > > > > be good. I suspect Boca Bearings are over priced. Perhaps  

 someone

 > > > > expert about this subject could comment.

 > > > > He also showed me a reducer bushing which which does the same

 > > thing

 > > > > as the spacer you and others had to make for the 1/2" to 5/8"

 > > > > difference of the axle and bearing I.D. This one was made of a

 > > > > rolled steel tube which has a closed seam and is plated. It  

 fits

 > > > > easily (perhaps too easily) in the existing cheap bearings  

 of the

 > > > > new wheel, but my application is to cut it to length to  

 work as a

 > > > > internal spacer. From your text you show understanding of this

 > > > > method. I will also add appropriate washers as spacers to  

 prevent

 > > > > the nut or opposite axle shoulder from rubbing against the  

 bearing

 > > > > seal. The intent is to capture the wheel/bearing assembly  

 on the

 > > > > axle, not clamp it. Thus with any clamping pressure from  

 improper

 > > > > assembly the axle nut would not place any undue side load  

 on the

 > > > > inner races. Since the axle and nut use a cotter pin the idea

 > > is to

 > > > > fix the nut at the point where minimal side to side play is

 > > > > attained. Shims may be used to fine tune the play. The axle  

 nut

 > > > > (for those not aware) is not to be tightened against the

 > > bearing or

 > > > > even the spacer.

 > > > >

 > > > > Hopefully my description here shows I understand the  

 concept for

 > > > > proper wheel bearing assembly. Please, anyone, let me know  

 if it's

 > > > > not clear enough as this is practice and preliminary  

 content for

 > > > > the instructions to be used for the Wiki page. I will be using

 > > > > photos and will add text and arrows to them where it helps.

 > > > > Thanks in advance.

 > > > >

 > > > > --

 > > > > Rex Hefferan

 > > > > SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

 > > > >

 > > > >

 > > > > Lynn Matteson wrote:

 > > > >

 > > > >> 

 > > <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 > > > >>

 > > > >> Rex-

 > > > >> I'm not sure what you meant by "The small gap between the  

 tube

 > > > >> spacer and inner bearing races"... The way I did it, there  

 is no

 > > > >> small gap. The tube I used is 5/8" OD and 1/2" ID, and is  

 meant

 > > > >> to be used as a "shim" between the size of the shaft... 

 1/2", and

 > > > >> the ID of the bearings that I got, which was 5/8". The  

 bearings

 > > > >> that you cited are already 1/2" ID, so the tube spacer is not

 > > > >> required as a shim or sleeve. If you are using those Boca

 > > > >> bearings that you mentioned, no sleeve is needed, but  

 maybe you

 > > > >> are using it to prevent the inner races of the two  

 bearings from

 > > > >> undo stress or load, if the nut is tightened too much.  

 That is a

 > > > >> good idea. But in that circumstance, there should be no  

 gap as

 > > > >> you mentioned. Am I reading you right?

 > > > >> By the way, for those that haven't done this Spruce  

 Homebuilder's

 > > > >> tailwheel swap, the bearings that come...or at least those  

 that

 > > > >> came with my tailwheel from Spruce...are bad news, in that  

 they

 > > > >> are rough to the feel when turned, and when my departed  

 bearing

 > > > >> guy looked up the load application, he said they were  

 meant for

 > > > >> the speed of a hand truck, or loading dolly. And they were  

 Heim

 > > > >> bearings....once a good name in bearings and maybe still  

 so, but

 > > > >> these particular bearings don't belong in the tailwheel of  

 our

 > > > >> airplanes. These particular bearings have a sleeve in them  

 which

 > > > >> takes the ID down to 1/2", and when replacing these Heim

 > > > >> bearings, I could find the proper 1.375" OD bearing, but not

 > > the .

 > > > >> 500" ID. The only bearing that was available to the bearing

 > > > >> dealer that I dealt with was the 1.375" ID, but with .  

 625" ID,

 > > > >> hence my use of the shim/sleeve to make up the difference in

 > > > >> diameters between the bearing ID and axle OD. Then, just to

 > > > >> simplify matters, I made the sleeve sort of become a  

 "diameter-

 > > > >> increasing" sleeve for the axle, and slid the wheel onto  

 it. My

 > > > >> nut then bears upon this sleeve, and does not put a  

 sideways load

 > > > >> on the inner race of the bearings. This is what must be  

 avoided.

 > > > >> There can be no sideways load on a normal ball bearing.  

 Some ball

 > > > >> bearings are designed to have a slight load on them, but I  

 don't

 > > > >> think they are in the $18 range for this size bearing.

 > > > >>

 > > > >> Lynn Matteson

 > > > >> Grass Lake, Michigan

 > > > >> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 > > > >> flying w/480+ hrs

 > > > >

 > > > >

 > > > >

 > > > >

 > > > &======

 > > >

 > > >

 > > >

 > >

 > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-

 > > =================================== _-

 > > forums.matronics.com_-

 > > =================================== _-

 > > contribution_-

 > > ===================================

 &g=======================

 >

 >

 >



 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_- 

 ============================================================ _- 

 forums.matronics.com_- 

 ============================================================ _- 

 contribution_- 

 ============================================================

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

patreilly43(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 1:05 pm Post subject: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

Lynn, I see the screws now on pg 96. I was looking in the instrument section. I need them to mount instruments and the radio. If you make it to the EAA Chp #22 Cotonwood airport June fly-in and want to stay at my place over night, we'd love to have you. 

  

 Pat 



 	  Quote: 	
		   From: lynnmatt(at)jps.net

 Subject: Re: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 07:50:27 -0400

 To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 

 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 

 They are listed under "machine screws" in the index, and are on p. 

 96. Not under "brass screws" or "instrument screws" or on the same 

 page, or in the same general vicinity as the instruments, as one 

 would think, nor are they cross-referenced as one would hope.

 Aircraft Spruce could do itself a huge favor and do some cross- 

 referencing in their index for us homebuilders, who don't always know 

 the proper name for something, myself being the "leader of that 

 pack." : )

 

 

 Lynn Matteson

 Grass Lake, Michigan

 Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 flying w/480+ hrs/down for annual

 

 

 

 On Mar 20, 2008, at 10:24 PM, patrick reilly wrote:

 

 > Lynn, I need some of those 6-32 instrument screws. WHere in the ACS 

 > catalog did you find them? I looked and didn't see them.

 >

 > Pat

 >

 > > From: lynnmatt(at)jps.net

 > > Subject: Re: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 > > Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 19:29:52 -0400

 > > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 > >

 > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 > >

 > > Well, wonder of wonders, Spruce finally got it right! Or did they?

 > > When I ordered mine, taking the description "bearings" to heart, I

 > > only got one, thinking it should be two, and returned it without

 > > thinking to see if it had a sleeve in it or not.

 > > Good report, Pat, but I think people who order the replacement

 > > bearings should ask if they are going to get one or two bearings.

 > >

 > > I seem to be having a problem with getting the "right stuff" from

 > > Spruce...I just received an order which included 6 brass instrument

 > > screws of 6-32 size. I only needed 4, but knowing their penchant for

 > > screwing up, I ordered 2 extras. Guess what? They sent 4 8-32's and

 > > 2 6-32's. The proper ones are on the way, after a phone call.

 > > Whenever I order from them, if it's only hardware items, I order

 > > extra, but this time they really screwed the pooch....and I was the

 > > pooch. : )

 > >

 > > Lynn Matteson

 > > Grass Lake, Michigan

 > > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 > > flying w/480+ hrs

 > > do not archive

 > >

 > >

 > > On Mar 20, 2008, at 5:52 PM, patrick reilly wrote:

 > >

 > > > Lynn, I ordered 2 of the bearings. (at) bearing arrived in a seperate

 > > > plastic package that could be cut apart but mine were still

 > > > together. ACS charged $4.95 for both, not each. I couldn't believe

 > > > it. The bearings are sealed and look to be good quality. That is

 > > > dirt cheap. The bearings still needed a shim to fit down to the

 > > > axle diameter. I filed and polished until I got a good tight slip

 > > > fit. I really don't know how much I took off of the bushing OD, as

 > > > I didn't mic it before I started.

 > > >

 > > > Pat Reilly

 > > > Mod 3 REbuild

 > > > Rockford, IL

 > > >

 > > > > From: lynnmatt(at)jps.net

 > > > > Subject: Re: Homebuilders special tailwheel swap

 > > > > Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:49:19 -0400

 > > > > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

 > > > >

 > > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson 

 > <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 > > > >

 > > > > Thanks, Rex. Good info. But there isn't a gap in mine, and if 

 > there

 > > > > was, the inner race of the bearing might rotate around the 

 > spacer/

 > > > > shim, instead of being fixed to the spacer/shim as it should 

 > be. The

 > > > > inner race-to-shim fit must be a good push fit, not sloppy in 

 > any

 > > > > way. I hope I'm not misinterpreting you.

 > > > >

 > > > > Now I have a question for anybody that has ordered the Spruce

 > > > > "longlife sealed ball bearings." Did you, Pat? I'm curious 

 > about the

 > > > > size of the ID of these bearings. Did you still need the shim/

 > > > spacer,

 > > > > or was the ID of these bearings .500" to fit the Maule axle?

 > > > > I had ordered the replacement "bearings"...plural...thinking 

 > that I

 > > > > was getting two bearings, and only one showed up. I was so 

 > pissed

 > > > > that I went to my local bearing dealer and bought bearings 

 > there,

 > > > > and returned the one that Spruce sent with a complaint about 

 > their

 > > > > poor description. Now I'm curious about whether those bearings

 > > > were a

 > > > > direct fit to the Maule axle or not. If they are, there's no 

 > need

 > > > for

 > > > > the tubing shim/spacer.

 > > > >

 > > > >

 > > > > Lynn Matteson

 > > > > Grass Lake, Michigan

 > > > > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 > > > > flying w/480+ hrs

 > > > >

 > > > >

 > > > >

 > > > > On Mar 19, 2008, at 10:46 PM, Rexinator wrote:

 > > > >

 > > > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rexinator 

 > <hefferans(at)gmail.com>

 > > > > >

 > > > > > Lynn,

 > > > > > Back from my Bearing shop trip. First I'll answer your

 > > > question. By

 > > > > > "gap" I meant that tiny space between the O.D. of the 

 > spacer/shim

 > > > > > and the I.D. of the bearings through which grease would 

 > migrate

 > > > out

 > > > > > if the wheel were to be used as designed. In other words; 

 > as the

 > > > > > original Maule wheel is designed by having a zerk fitting 

 > in the

 > > > > > hub. (Where grease in injected into the hub, but better 

 > bearings

 > > > > > were used). Since you used sealed bearings the zerk fitting 

 > is not

 > > > > > needed, but left in place. I will recommend the zerk 

 > fitting be

 > > > > > replaced with a plug and will try to source a part for that.

 > > > > > I plan to replace the existing bearings with the same type 

 > as you

 > > > > > did, but my supplier was able to quote me a comparable 

 > bearing at

 > > > > > $4 each! I actually showed him the print-out from 

 > BocaBearings.com

 > > > > > and he used the same P/N for the quote. He only had one in

 > > > stock so

 > > > > > I'll go back Friday to pick them up. I did look at the one 

 > he had

 > > > > > and it looked like the photos. It may be another brand, but 

 > should

 > > > > > be good. I suspect Boca Bearings are over priced. Perhaps 

 > someone

 > > > > > expert about this subject could comment.

 > > > > > He also showed me a reducer bushing which which does the same

 > > > thing

 > > > > > as the spacer you and others had to make for the 1/2" to 5/8"

 > > > > > difference of the axle and bearing I.D. This one was made of a

 > > > > > rolled steel tube which has a closed seam and is plated. It 

 > fits

 > > > > > easily (perhaps too easily) in the existing cheap bearings 

 > of the

 > > > > > new wheel, but my application is to cut it to length to 

 > work as a

 > > > > > internal spacer. >From your text you show understanding of this

 > > > > > method. I will also add appropriate washers as spacers to 

 > prevent

 > > > > > the nut or opposite axle shoulder from rubbing against the 

 > bearing

 > > > > > seal. The intent is to capture the wheel/bearing assembly 

 > on the

 > > > > > axle, not clamp it. Thus with any clamping pressure from 

 > improper

 > > > > > assembly the axle nut would not place any undue side load 

 > on the

 > > > > > inner races. Since the axle and nut use a cotter pin the idea

 > > > is to

 > > > > > fix the nut at the point where minimal side to side play is

 > > > > > attained. Shims may be used to fine tune the play. The axle 

 > nut

 > > > > > (for those not aware) is not to be tightened against the

 > > > bearing or

 > > > > > even the spacer.

 > > > > >

 > > > > > Hopefully my description here shows I understand the 

 > concept for

 > > > > > proper wheel bearing assembly. Please, anyone, let me know 

 > if it's

 > > > > > not clear enough as this is practice and preliminary 

 > content for

 > > > > > the instructions to be used for the Wiki page. I will be using

 > > > > > photos and will add text and arrows to them where it helps.

 > > > > > Thanks in advance.

 > > > > >

 > > > > > --

 > > > > > Rex Hefferan

 > > > > > SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs

 > > > > >

 > > > > >

 > > > > > Lynn Matteson wrote:

 > > > > >

 > > > > >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson

 > > > <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

 > > > > >>

 > > > > >> Rex-

 > > > > >> I'm not sure what you meant by "The small gap between the 

 > tube

 > > > > >> spacer and inner bearing races".. The way I did it, there 

 > is no

 > > > > >> small gap. The tube I used is 5/8" OD and 1/2" ID, and is 

 > meant

 > > > > >> to be used as a "shim" between the size of the shaft... 

 > 1/2", and

 > > > > >> the ID of the bearings that I got, which was 5/8". The 

 > bearings

 > > > > >> that you cited are already 1/2" ID, so the tube spacer is not

 > > > > >> required as a shim or sleeve. If you are using those Boca

 > > > > >> bearings that you mentioned, no sleeve is needed, but 

 > maybe you

 > > > > >> are using it to prevent the inner races of the two 

 > bearings from

 > > > > >> undo stress or load, if the nut is tightened too much. 

 > That is a

 > > > > >> good idea. But in that circumstance, there should be no 

 > gap as

 > > > > >> you mentioned. Am I reading you right?

 > > > > >> By the way, for those that haven't done this Spruce 

 > Homebuilder's

 > > > > >> tailwheel swap, the bearings that come...or at least those 

 > that

 > > > > >> came with my tailwheel from Spruce...are bad news, in that 

 > they

 > > > > >> are rough to the feel when turned, and when my departed 

 > bearing

 > > > > >> guy looked up the load application, he said they were 

 > meant for

 > > > > >> the speed of a hand truck, or loading dolly. And they were 

 > Heim

 > > > > >> bearings....once a good name in bearings and maybe still 

 > so, but

 > > > > >> these particular bearings don't belong in the tailwheel of 

 > our

 > > > > >> airplanes. These particular bearings have a sleeve in them 

 > which

 > > > > >> takes the ID down to 1/2", and when replacing these Heim

 > > > > >> bearings, I could find the proper 1.375" OD bearing, but not

 > > > the .

 > > > > >> 500" ID. The only bearing that was available to the bearing

 > > > > >> dealer that I dealt with was the 1.375" ID, but with . 

 > 625" ID,

 > > > > >> hence my use of the shim/sleeve to make up the difference in

 > > > > >> diameters between the bearing ID and axle OD. Then, just to

 > > > > >> simplify matters, I made the sleeve sort of become a 

 > "diameter-

 > > > > >> increasing" sleeve for the axle, and slid the wheel onto 

 > it. My

 > > > > >> nut then bears upon this sleeve, and does not put a 

 > sideways load

 > > > > >> on the inner race of the bearings. This is what must be 

 > avoided.

 > > > > >> There can be no sideways load on a normal ball bearing. 

 > Some ball

 > > > > >> bearings are designed to have a slight load on them, but I 

 > don't

 > > > > >> think they are in the $18 range for this size bearing.

 > > > > >>

 > > > > >> Lynn Matteson

 > > > > >> Grass Lake, Michigan

 > > > > >> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200

 > > > > >> flying w/480+ hrs

 > > > > >

 > > > > >

 > > > > >

 > > > > >

 > > > > &======

 > > > >

 > > > >

 > > > >

 > > >

 > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-

 > > > =================================== _-

 > > > forums.matronics.com_-

 > > > ========== _-

 > > > contribution_-

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 > &g=======================

 > >

 > >

 > >

 >

 > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_- 

 > ========== _- 

 > forums.matronics.com_- 

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