rparigor(at)SUFFOLK.LIB.N
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 Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:41 pm Post subject: Large Gauge Wire Crimper |
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I saw this under homemade tools for a Volvo.
Ron Parigoris
Large Gauge Wire Crimper. [Tip from Tom Harper] Ever needed to get a
solidly crimped electrical terminal on larger cables (8 - 4 gauge), but
found the cost of crimp tools in that size to cause "sticker shock"?
Here's something I've been doing - it works for UNinsulated terminals.
1. Measure the OD of the uninsulated terminal barrel you need to crimp
2. Find (or buy - a dime or so) a nut with a thread size (thread OD - not
ID) equal to or slightly smaller than the size in step 1
3. Drill out the nut to match the terminal OD
4. Cut the nut in half, across opposing corners (NOT across the flats).
Your Dremel tool will come in handy for this - a hacksaw will do it also,
just takes more time.
5. Find a piece of round stock about 1/8" - 3/16" (3-4 mm) diameter, about
3/8" (1 cm) long (you can cut the head off a screw for this - the threads
won't affect anything.) You now have a "saddle" and a "punch" (halved
nut & screw/round stock piece).
6. Put the terminal in the "saddle", and the "punch" lying lengthwise on
top of the terminal, opposite the "saddle" - you'll probably want to tape
the assembly together, otherwise it takes 3 or 4 hands.
7. Put the cable end into the terminal, and crimp the whole works together
using a bench vise, Vise-Grips, or equivalent. The "saddle" supports the
bottom of the terminal, while the "punch" crimps everything nice & tight.
I've gotten really tight & secure crimps on up to 4 gauge cable by hand
with this method. After a dozen or so uses, the nut may crack & start to
spread; no problem, since you have the other half, and making new
"saddles" is easy & cheap anyway.
Make sure your terminal barrel ID is close to the wire OD - this method
doesn't do too well if there's a lot of empty space between the wire and
the terminal. You may be a bit clumsy at first, but once you work out a
way to keep everything aligned as you start the crimp, it'll go really
well. The new Vice-Grip adjustable wrench is ideal for this - the
"V"-shaped jaw is ideal for supporting the "saddle".
Volvo content - used this trick yesterday when making some "overkill" (4
gauge) engine-to-body ground and alternator-to-starter terminal cables.
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