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Model 4 rudder gap

 
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Catz631(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 1:31 pm    Post subject: Model 4 rudder gap Reply with quote

I am in the process of filling the large gap between the rudder and vertical stabilizer on my Kitfox.I have obtained some foam pieces for this purpose but before gluing them to the leading edge of the rudder and covering I thought I would write the group and see if anyone had done it and is it worth it.
I am tired of looking at that 1 1/2 to 2 inch gap and if for no other reason then looks I want to fill it. I have heard that it improves the rudder authority (although mine seems to be fine) Has anyone none this? I intend to epoxy the shaped foam pieces to the leading edge of the rudder, cover with 6" tape and then respray the covered area but before I screw it up, I thought I would check with you guys
  Thanks !
      Dick Maddux
      Fox 4
      Pensacola,Fl

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kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 1:52 pm    Post subject: Model 4 rudder gap Reply with quote

I believe that is standard procedure on the classic 4. I have been looking for a pic but cant seem to find one. I will take one the next time I am at the airport if I can remember. In my classic 4 the foam was placed on the trailing edge of the vert fin but a pic is worth a thousand words.


From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Catz631(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 4:27 PM
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Model 4 rudder gap


I am in the process of filling the large gap between the rudder and vertical stabilizer on my Kitfox.I have obtained some foam pieces for this purpose but before gluing them to the leading edge of the rudder and covering I thought I would write the group and see if anyone had done it and is it worth it.

I am tired of looking at that 1 1/2 to 2 inch gap and if for no other reason then looks I want to fill it. I have heard that it improves the rudder authority (although mine seems to be fine) Has anyone none this? I intend to epoxy the shaped foam pieces to the leading edge of the rudder, cover with 6" tape and then respray the covered area but before I screw it up, I thought I would check with you guys

Thanks !

    Dick Maddux

    Fox 4

    Pensacola,Fl





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Tom Jones



Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 752
Location: Ellensburg, WA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 2:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Model 4 rudder gap Reply with quote

[quote="Catz631(at)aol.com"]I am in the process of filling the large gap between the rudder and vertical stabilizer on my Kitfox.I have obtained some foam pieces for this purpose but before gluing them to the leading edge of the rudder and covering I thought I would write the group and see if anyone had done it and is it worth it.
I am tired of looking at that 1 1/2 to 2 inch gap and if for no other reason then looks I want to fill it. I have heard that it improves the rudder authority (although mine seems to be fine) Has anyone none this? I intend to epoxy the shaped foam pieces to the leading edge of the rudder, cover with 6" tape and then respray the covered area but before I screw it up, I thought I would check with you guys
� Thanks !
� � � Dick Maddux
� � � Fox 4
� � � Pensacola,Fl

Quote:
[b]


Dick,

Good idea, it looks much better and reduces drag to fill the gap. The foam gap seal instructions in the manual say it should be epoxied to the vertical fin tail post. Also, I think the leading edge of the rudder will swing out of alignment with the fin if the gap seal is attached to the rudder.

I cut straight edged rectangular openings in the foam to clear the rod ends. later I saw a Kitfox with nice smooth curved openings around the rod ends. That looks better. Unless you are really good at fabric work you will need bias tape to finish it with the curved openings. Thats the way I would do it if I built another plane.


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Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
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Sbennett3(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 3:10 pm    Post subject: Model 4 rudder gap Reply with quote

The gap on the classic and the 4/1200 are different. My classic speedwing only has 1/2 inch gap. I thought about sealing, but it flies just fine without. If I had the 1 1/2 inch gap like the 4/1200's I'd definitely seal. Steve Bennett

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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:08 pm    Post subject: Model 4 rudder gap Reply with quote

Hi Dick-
I've enclosed a picture of my vertical stab when I added some
airfoils, and a gap-filling method that I used during my building. It
may be more than you want to do, but thought I'd include it for your
edification. After I shot these pictures, I added a vertical
stiffener to each horizontal rib, as has been done on the 2nd rib
from the top on the rudder. The formed piece is aluminum sheet, and
the rudder pieces are balsa wood on the sides, with the foam stuff
that Skystar included with the kit, sandwiched between.

Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/490+ hrs

On Apr 14, 2008, at 5:27 PM, Catz631(at)aol.com wrote:

Quote:
I am in the process of filling the large gap between the rudder and
vertical stabilizer on my Kitfox.I have obtained some foam pieces
for this purpose but before gluing them to the leading edge of the
rudder and covering I thought I would write the group and see if
anyone had done it and is it worth it.
I am tired of looking at that 1 1/2 to 2 inch gap and if for no
other reason then looks I want to fill it. I have heard that it
improves the rudder authority (although mine seems to be fine) Has
anyone none this? I intend to epoxy the shaped foam pieces to the
leading edge of the rudder, cover with 6" tape and then respray the
covered area but before I screw it up, I thought I would check with
you guys
Thanks !
Dick Maddux
Fox 4
Pensacola,Fl



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Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM
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epnewgard(at)fairpoint.ne
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 8:13 pm    Post subject: Model 4 rudder gap Reply with quote

Anothe option that I used on my mod 4 and on previously owned gliders is to use about a 3" strip of fabric glued on one side of the fin and the other side of the rudder.  Very light weight and easy to rig.  You might want to paint the strip before applying and contact cement in place.
 
On Apr 14, 2008, at 2:49 PM, kirk hull wrote:
Quote:
I believe that is standard procedure on the classic 4.  I have been looking for a pic but cant seem to find one.  I will take one the next time I am at the airport if I can remember.  In my classic 4 the foam was placed on the trailing edge of the vert fin but a pic is worth a thousand words.
 

From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Catz631(at)aol.com (Catz631(at)aol.com)
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 4:27 PM
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Model 4 rudder gap

 
I am in the process of filling the large gap between the rudder and vertical stabilizer on my Kitfox.I have obtained some foam pieces for this purpose but before gluing them to the leading edge of the rudder and covering I thought I would write the group and see if anyone had done it and is it worth it.

 I am tired of looking at that 1 1/2 to 2 inch gap and if for no other reason then looks I  want to fill it. I have heard that it improves the rudder authority (although mine seems to be fine) Has anyone none this? I intend to epoxy the shaped foam pieces to the leading edge of the rudder, cover with 6" tape and then respray the covered area but before I screw it up, I thought I would check with you guys

                      Thanks !

                                          Dick Maddux

                                          Fox 4

                                          Pensacola,Fl

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Catz631(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 4:33 am    Post subject: Model 4 rudder gap Reply with quote

Lynn and the rest of the group,

Thanks for all of your input! I knew I would probably get it backwards on the installation although I was told if I install the foam on the leading edge of the rudder it would be "like power steering." My rudder control is really no problem now so I will probably reverse my thinking and put the foam on the fin. Lynn, I now know why the foam pieces that Debra sent me are shaped the way they were. Your picture shows a different set up entirely for the gap seal. I don't have the piece that fits on the fin that the foam 'cups' in to. Mine looks like a simple cub fin. I had to cut the foam in half (I wondered why it was so big) in order to close the gap and I cupped the other end of the foam with sandpaper on a piece of tubing so it will have a nice glue joint.
I have sent my elevator off to have a trim tab installed and am excited about getting it back so that I can get back in the air. The weather is nice here in northern Florida. Soon we will have the "dog days " of summer and I will be miserable again.
At the same time I sent of my "quad" gauge to Westach to have them recalibrate my oil pressure gauge (it was reading 12 lbs. too low) and paint the Rotax markings on the gauge.
I also installed the "King fox" tires (really Nankang 800) and am eager to try them. I had to cut off a piece of the gear fairings and refabric in order to fit them. They are fat! They look exactly like a pair of doughnuts and would make Homer Simpson proud.
I will give a report on my new electric elevator trim (control on the stick grip) and tires when I am back in the air again.
Thanks again!
        Dick Maddux
        Fox 4-1200
        Pensacola, Fl

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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:26 am    Post subject: Model 4 rudder gap Reply with quote

Dick-
I learned from this group that if the rudder and fin are left
"skinny", like a Cub, that the tail will "hunt", that is, move from
side to side a bit, looking for neutral air. Others on the group say
they notice no such hunting. I just didn't like the skinny look, and
wanted to make the verticals fatter, for looks if for no other
reason. I just eyeballed the shape of the ribs that I made, sort of
following what Skystar offered, but making mine a little less fat. I
drew up a shape for that aluminum "female" piece, and had a local
sheet metal shop bend it up. After that part was done, I added a cap
on top of the fin and rudder of foam and balsa, and filed to shape.

I heard (from the grapevine) about your elevator trim mod...you'll
love it. I have my control on the panel as a rocker switch.

By the way, I now have my TruTrak ADI installed and it works great.
If I ever get....no, better make that WHEN I get stupid again, it'll
be nice to be able to have a reference for pitch and roll, and
direction, all on the same gauge. Thanks for your input on that matter.

Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/490+ hrs

On Apr 15, 2008, at 8:28 AM, Catz631(at)aol.com wrote:

Quote:
Lynn and the rest of the group,

Thanks for all of your input! I knew I would probably get it
backwards on the installation although I was told if I install the
foam on the leading edge of the rudder it would be "like power
steering." My rudder control is really no problem now so I will
probably reverse my thinking and put the foam on the fin. Lynn, I
now know why the foam pieces that Debra sent me are shaped the way
they were. Your picture shows a different set up entirely for the
gap seal. I don't have the piece that fits on the fin that the foam
'cups' in to. Mine looks like a simple cub fin. I had to cut the
foam in half (I wondered why it was so big) in order to close the
gap and I cupped the other end of the foam with sandpaper on a
piece of tubing so it will have a nice glue joint.
I have sent my elevator off to have a trim tab installed and am
excited about getting it back so that I can get back in the air.
The weather is nice here in northern Florida. Soon we will have the
"dog days " of summer and I will be miserable again.
At the same time I sent of my "quad" gauge to Westach to have
them recalibrate my oil pressure gauge (it was reading 12 lbs. too
low) and paint the Rotax markings on the gauge.
I also installed the "King fox" tires (really Nankang 800) and am
eager to try them. I had to cut off a piece of the gear fairings
and refabric in order to fit them. They are fat! They look exactly
like a pair of doughnuts and would make Homer Simpson proud.
I will give a report on my new electric elevator trim (control on
the stick grip) and tires when I am back in the air again.
Thanks again!
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Pensacola, Fl

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www.matronics.com/contribution _-
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_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM
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