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Jaybannist(at)cs.com
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 Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 12:08 pm Post subject: Nosebowl |
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Gig,
I used a hand held power jigsaw to cut the nosebowl holes. The one behind the spinner doesn't have to be real pretty and you need only to leave enough flat area to fasten the nosebowl spacer to it. The intake holes were rough cut with the jigsaw and cleaned up with a Dremel. I didn't cut the intake holes for a long time, but the installation will go a lot easier if you go ahead and cut them early on. You can reach in behind to hold the nosebowl spacer bolts while you put the nuts on them from the front.
If yours is like mine, you will have to do some notching of the rear flanges for the cowling angles to fit close enough. I also had to cut some of that rear flange off, because it was curled too much (outward) and kept the cowling metal sheets from lying flush with the surface of the nosebowl.
I also had to notch the baffle sheet metal where the upper cowling angles crossed at right angles.
I had to do some microfiber work around the intake holes at the joining flanges.
I've attached a drawing of the nosebowl spacer.
For the spinner cuts, I made templates of Bristol board, the cutouts fine tuned with masking tape. I made the cuts to the spinner with a Dremel. I used cut out material for the filler behind the prop shaft instead of aluminum as in Van's instructions. These fillers are riveted to the backplate, and not fastened to the spinner.
Jay in Dallas CH 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
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Gig Giacona
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1416
Location: El Dorado Arkansas USA
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