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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
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 Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:55 am Post subject: Mechanical question - Bond Studs |
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At 06:03 PM 4/27/2008 -0400, you wrote:
| Quote: | Very Cool! Thanks for pointing them out to me.
Stan
Do not archive
Take a look at Perforated Base Binding Nuts and Studs on page
3120 of the
http://www.mcmaster.com
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Agreed! Many of you will recall that for a time
a few years ago, the 'Connection offered "bond studs"
for the purpose of securing non-structural support
studs to the surfaces inside airplanes. We went through
several batches of a manufacturer's surplus product
in less than a year . . . over 3500 parts as I recall.
I've toyed with then notion of having something made
that would duplicate or improve upon the utility of
that technique but it's been one-project-of-many and
is pretty far back on the stove.
In the mean time, it seems our friends at McMaster-
Carr have cataloged a variety of similar products that
are almost sure to be equal to or better than the
junk-yard gizmos I sold out of. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Bond_Studs.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
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rparigor(at)SUFFOLK.LIB.N
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| Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:03 am Post subject: Mechanical question - Bond Studs |
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"Perforated Base Binding Nuts and Studs on page 3120 of the
http://www.mcmaster.com"
For what its worth I have used McMaster perforated base studs. I used the
Stainless ones. They are very shiny, guess you could hand sand them,
blasting with aluminium oxide does a better job. I used the 1/4-20 studs,
but needed small nuts so tapped some aviation small outside diameter nuts
and gave them a bit of a squishing, and used a dab of Loctite. They are
easy to cut, and in my instance tack weld together (TIG) for easy
installation with exact dimension between studs for holding two Flowscan
201B transducers.
They are heavier than Aircraft Spruce aluminium studs, but the ability to
weld made them my choice for the Transducers.
As far as bonding to aluminium, you can not do much better than Redux 420
(or Huntsmans Epibond 420) which has rubber added to it, also has glass in
its brew so you can not squeeze out all adhesive. My Europa is held
together with this stuff! Far superior to Laminating Epoxy or JB Weld.
Scuff sand with 80 grit or if scratches will not cause stress cracking use
40 grit. Then wet out with pure Redux, then make a bed of Redux and Flox
(toothpaste consistency, Flox is chopped cotton and makes structural mix)
and set stud in place. Aluminium studs from Spruce or Wicks work great
with Redux, I drill some holes in it for rivet effect. Note McMaster studs
allow a flat base even with adhesive because of integral stand off. If it
is something I don't want to come off ever, can put 2 BID on it. BID is
BiDirectional fiberglass cloth as used by Rutan. What you do is take a
piece of clear plastic and draw a circle on it with a magic marker, turn
sheet over and place 2 pieces of BID on it, then wet out with Redux and
squeegee out excess, make a hole in center for stud, cut circumferance and
apply to stud, then peel off plastic.
Again Redux has rubber in it, so it is somewhat flexible, it prevents
point loading and peeling. Boeing uses Epibond 420. I am pretty certain
that if you anodized it would probably make a better bond, but I am pretty
certain that studs stuck only with Redux to scuffed aluminium will be
around for life of aircraft, and with 2 BID, foreverrrrr.
Side note, I bond zip tie blocks or other nylon hold downs to aluminium,
by scuffing nylon with 40 and aluminium with 40 or 80, then JB KWIK in
place, after 15 minutes Redux/Flox fillet and 1 Redux/BID. If you don't
have Redux, you could probably plastic sheet 1 BID with long cure JB Weld.
If you don't have BID could probably plastic sheet a few layers of gauze
style Spackle tape with long cure JB Weld, both of which are available at
the aviation isle of Home Depot or your local home center or hardware
store. Test first as I have not, but pretty certain it will be a winner.
On Fiberglass, I JB KWIK, then Aeropoxy/flox fillet then 1 Aeropoxy/BID.
Redux would work but harder to work with (mix and mess and expense).
Back to studs, you will need to try, but on aluminium or fiberglass, scuff
stud with 40 grit, and aircraft with 40 or 80, wet stud and aircraft with
thin layer of JB long cure, then mix some JB long cure with some flox
(toothpaste consistency) and install stud, then plastic sheet a few layers
of spackle tape and JB long cure, cut center hole and scissor OD and
install.
If cold, or damp just leave the plastic on and remove after cure, will be
a nice smooth surface.
If you are not working in 70 plus temperatures with less than ~60%
humidity, warm up stud and airplane.
Warm up first, scuff sand and apply adhesive, wait as Little time as you
can after scuff to apply adhesive.
Ron Parigoris
I could have installed 4 studs with JB Long and Spackle tape in the amount
of time it took me to write this.
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Ed Anderson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 475
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| Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:11 am Post subject: Mechanical question - Bond Studs |
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I found that copper tubing used for gas lines can be beaten flat and used as
the copper bar - the advantage is you can find it almost anywhere.
Ed
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_________________
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com |
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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
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| Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:44 pm Post subject: Mechanical question - Bond Studs |
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At 03:07 PM 4/28/2008 -0400, you wrote:
| Quote: |
<eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
I found that copper tubing used for gas lines can be beaten flat and used
as the copper bar - the advantage is you can find it almost anywhere.
Ed
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If one is attempting to get gas-tight connections to
the sheet-material bus-bars, they need to be as flat
as possible with parallel and smooth front and back
surfaces. While you can certainly drill holes in and
bolt up chunks of flattened tubing, the finished product
leaves some concerns for long-term joint integrity.
Suggest you stick with manufactured sheet materials.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
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