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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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 Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 3:48 pm Post subject: Compound curve at rear of outside canopy flashing? |
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I'm working on the minefield which is the XL canopy. My current
problem/question is how to wrap the outside flashing around the last bit of
the canopy's curve. On the steel canopy frame supplied with my QBK the plate
the latch is welded to doesn't curve in from bottom to top to follow the
curve of the canopy. It isn't even flat - it curves out (two pictures
attached). The lip is most pronounced along the upper edge of the plate
between the rear of the actual latch mechanism and the tube that the rear
canopy bow inserts into.
So the flashing has to curve around this lip AND curve around to meet the
rear of the canopy. Unless I buy an English wheel and develop a new skill
quickly I don't see how to do this. I see a few possible fixes:
- grind/cut off the worst of the lip while still leaving enough of the plate
intact to support the bow.
- stop the flashing at the tube and use a second piece between the tube and
the rear edge of the canopy
- use a hammer to stretch the flashing around the lip.
I suspect I may have to use a combination of these ideas.
-- Craig
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Ron Lendon
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI
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| Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 6:03 pm Post subject: Re: Compound curve at rear of outside canopy flashing? |
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Craig,
If the material is 6061-T6 you can anneal it by heating it to 600 degrees and quenching it in cold water. The material becomes very soft and will harden back up with age. The part you refer to is not structural in that it is not weight bearing and this methodology should work for making the metal easier to move and relocate to the desired shape.
A welding supply house has TEMPERATURE INDICATING STICKS (tempilstick), get the one you need (600f) and heat the metal slowly with an acetylene torch and using the stick you mark the metal, when the temperature is met the stick makes a wet dark mark on the metal, that is when you dunk it in the cold water.
Try some small test pieces first and get the feel of how it works. You should work the metal immediately and will discover that the very next day it is quite hard to move again.
No wheel training necessary.
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_________________
Ron Lendon
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
CH 601 XLB
N601LT - Flying
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Corvair Engine Prints:
https://sites.google.com/site/corvairenginedata/ |
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larry(at)macsmachine.com
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| Posted: Tue May 06, 2008 6:47 am Post subject: Compound curve at rear of outside canopy flashing? |
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Craig,
This is the place where your scratch builder instinct has to take over.
The outside of the square frame tube and the latch plate must be flush
outside.
I'd be inclined to grind off the lip, bend inward the latch plate just
behind the latch to gain radius enough to realign with the fuselage.
There's no need
for a compound radius as you'll find the flashing will contact the
fuselage and then scrape on it every time it's closed. You may have to
add radius to
the square tube to get it perfectly aligned with the side skin. The
contact edge with the fuselage skin and support bow can be compensated
by adding a patch
of leather or fabric to the inside bottom edge of the rear flashing.
Drawing 6-C-2 shows the relationship of the side frames with the latch
plate, but the
top view is exaggerated a bit. Remove the acrylic. Rework for your best
radius and alignment first. Then go for the flashing, and then the canopy.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/insideangle.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/cnpybowsrearqtr.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/insideanglecuts.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/canopyframeup.gif
You may can fit the side flashing before the canopy to get the alignment
and acquire slight curvatures first.
Having to work around the canopy acrylic is risky until your bows side
frames and flashing fit clecoed in place.
The link to my canopy page is: Click the image to get a larger picture.
www.macsmachine.com/html/canopy.htm
Good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Craig Payne wrote:
| Quote: | I'm working on the minefield which is the XL canopy. My current
problem/question is how to wrap the outside flashing around the last bit of
the canopy's curve. On the steel canopy frame supplied with my QBK the plate
the latch is welded to doesn't curve in from bottom to top to follow the
curve of the canopy. It isn't even flat - it curves out (two pictures
attached). The lip is most pronounced along the upper edge of the plate
between the rear of the actual latch mechanism and the tube that the rear
canopy bow inserts into.
So the flashing has to curve around this lip AND curve around to meet the
rear of the canopy. Unless I buy an English wheel and develop a new skill
quickly I don't see how to do this. I see a few possible fixes:
- grind/cut off the worst of the lip while still leaving enough of the plate
intact to support the bow.
- stop the flashing at the tube and use a second piece between the tube and
the rear edge of the canopy
- use a hammer to stretch the flashing around the lip.
I suspect I may have to use a combination of these ideas.
-- Craig
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