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occom
Joined: 26 Aug 2006 Posts: 404
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Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:35 am Post subject: same old rivet question. |
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Now that (I assume) we have established that the Kitfox is not a high performance slippery aircraft (in the wingtip thread) I have a rivet question.
I have to rivet the rear of a flaperon, and I have no dimpler. I am tempted to used regular old domed 3/32 rivets in place of flush mounted ones. Can anyone think of any reason why this is not a reasonable option. I cannot imagine any reason we require flush mounted rivets.
Dave Goddard
KF IV 1050 / 582 / Warp
[quote][b]
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lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:03 pm Post subject: same old rivet question. |
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Dave,
I realize that what I am about to suggest is heresy, but here goes.
Dimpling, in my opinion just cleans up the top visible side of the flapreon
with a bigger uglier bump on the bottom. On my first Model IV and the plan
on the new one; I simply counter sunk the holes - very carefully - so the
flush rivets were almost flush and squeezed them in place. almost flat on
the top and less bumby on the bottom. All these rivets are for is to
support the glue. I never had one pop through in 900 hours. If you think
you might need more strength, just place them a bit closer together.
Lowell
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Lynn Matteson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 2778 Location: Grass Lake, Michigan
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Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:24 pm Post subject: same old rivet question. |
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....nor have I, in 870 hours.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 870.7 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~130 to go(139 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
do not archive
On Mar 7, 2010, at 2:29 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote:
Quote: |
<lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
Dave,
I never had one pop through in 900 hours.
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_________________ Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM |
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occom
Joined: 26 Aug 2006 Posts: 404
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Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:47 pm Post subject: same old rivet question. |
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I had noticed the clean top ugly bottom myself. I put in one surface mount
rivet on a couple of small bits of aluminum and it looked fine to me as it
does on the Cessna I rent ( it has more than a few). I will, unless someone
puts forward a really good reason why I shouldn't, put a 3/32" non-flush
rivet (AN470) every 4" along both the new flaperon and as an add-on to the
old one whose glue has separated in many places. It looks like an attempt
was made to reglue and it didn't work out.
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taildragon(at)msn.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:55 pm Post subject: same old rivet question. |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> When building the RV-10, I learned how the trailing edges are double counter sunk and smooth on both sides. If I was to do the flaperons on the KitFox again, I would probably not counter sink but rather just use a round top 3/32 solid rivet and buck the bottom side a bit hard. It would not be flush but flatter than the pop rivet I originally used.
[quote] ---
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Guy Buchanan
Joined: 16 Jul 2006 Posts: 1204 Location: Ramona, CA
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Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 4:00 pm Post subject: same old rivet question. |
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At 11:29 AM 3/7/2010, you wrote:
Quote: | All these rivets are for is to support the glue. I never had one
pop through in 900 hours. If you think you might need more
strength, just place them a bit closer together.
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Lowell,
In the boat business we called these "peel-stoppers". They
don't provide any structural strength and are spaced too far apart to
clamp the edge during gluing. Rather they're to isolate a failed TE
section so you don't end up with flappy flaperon. (A good way to put
a glued and busted TE back together is to wick in thin cyanoacrylate.)
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 400 hrs. and counting
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_________________ Guy Buchanan
Deceased K-IV 1200
A glider pilot too. |
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