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cowling filler

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yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:25 pm Post subject: cowling filler

I want to fill the texture "pin holes"  in my cowl before mounting the cam locs to the firewall edges of the cowl.  I tried Evercoat Feather Fill primer and Evercoat Metal Glaze and was disappointed with the results -- got nearly as many "pin holes" as before I made the applications.  I'm thinking of trying micro balloons next.  What has worked best for you guys out there????



Thanks

dave

[quote]  

  	  Quote: 	
		  



	


[b]

Vanremog(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:43 pm Post subject: cowling filler

In a message dated 6/1/2008 10:26:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  I want    to fill the texture "pin holes"  in my cowl before mounting the cam locs    to the firewall edges of the cowl.  I tried Evercoat Feather Fill primer    and Evercoat Metal Glaze and was disappointed with the results --    got nearly as many "pin holes" as before I made the applications.     I'm thinking of trying micro balloons next.     What has worked best for you guys out there???? 	


 

 ========================

  

 Make small batches of a loose slurry of (insert favorite epoxy compound  here) and microballoons and use a plastic spreader to work it into the offending  surfaces.  You really want to fill the holes so use a good scrub to get it  into, not on the surfaces.  Then sand and prime.  I used light  coats of DuPont Uro primer block sanded in between.

  

 -GV 



Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.

  [quote][b]

Deems Davis

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:45 pm Post subject: cowling filler

It's not so much what you use but how you apply it. Get an old credit 

card or reasonable fact similie, brush or roll on your filler, to a 

relatively small area (say 10" x 10" ). it doesnt' have to be a lot of 

filler as this step is only going to ofill the pinholes & voids. Then 

use the credit card to squeegee the surface with the filler (Metal glaze 

will probably set up too fast for this application) . In my experience 

Poly Fiber UV smooth Prime works wonderfully and 'dries' within minutes 

and is water based. This will fill 99.9% of the pinholes  in the 1st 

application, and then you can proceed to prime the part/s as desired. 

Others have used a razor blade instead of the credit cards, and some use 

an epoxy mix as a filler.

Deems Davis # 406

'Its all done....Its just not put together'

http://deemsrv10.com/

David Cudney wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   I want to fill the texture "pin holes"  in my cowl before mounting the 

 cam locs to the firewall edges of the cowl.  I tried Evercoat Feather 

 Fill primer and Evercoat Metal Glaze and was disappointed with the 

 results -- got nearly as many "pin holes" as before I made the 

 applications.  I'm thinking of trying micro balloons next.  What has 

 worked best for you guys out there????

 Thanks

 dave

>  

> *

>

> *

 *

 *

n320wt(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 3:07 am Post subject: cowling filler

Dave, I do composite fabrication for a living mostly on Lancairs. I've been using a product called Wonder-fil from Loehle Aero Coatings. It is applied with a paper towel, allowed to dry and then wipe the excess residue away. This leaves the pin holes and porosity completly filled. Spray urethane primer and the Wonder-fil will wick solvents from the urethane and fully bond. It is compatiable with any urethane paint system on the market but I've found Loehles paints to be superior to anything else I've tried and now its the only system I'll use. See www.loehle.com



BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) 

CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES

101 Caroline Circle

Hurricane, WV 25526

www.carbonfibercomposites.net

304-562-6800  home

304-395-4932 cell



How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?



--- On Mon, 6/2/08, David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>

Subject: Re: cowling filler

To: rv-list(at)matronics.com

Date: Monday, June 2, 2008, 1:21 AM



 I want to fill the texture "pin holes"  in my cowl before mounting the cam locs to the firewall edges of the cowl.  I tried Evercoat Feather Fill primer and Evercoat Metal Glaze and was disappointed with the results -- got nearly as many "pin holes" as before I made the applications.  I'm thinking of trying micro balloons next.  What has worked best for you guys out there????  



 Thanks

 dave

   	  Quote: 	
		     

 	  Quote: 	
		  



	




	


	
 [quote][b]

yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 2:02 pm Post subject: Cowling Filler

Walt and Deems:



What did you guys use after filled the Smooth Prime?  Did you use a  

primer and if so what kind?  Have you finish painted the cowl?  And if  

so what did you use?  What I'm getting at is were there any  

compatibility problems? I was hoping to use a two part polyurethane or  

polyester primer and then fly the plane for a year or so before having  

it professionally painted.  I don't want any compatibility problems  

down the line -- so far Smooth Prime sounds like the answer for me.   

Clearly heavy spraying with Feather Fill did not work.  I'm hoping to  

avoid hours of mixing small batches of filler and scraping it in with  

a credit card, blade, or squeegee --- will the credit cards still work  

after such abuse?



Thanks for your help



dave



On Jun 2, 2008, at 5:07 AM, rveighta wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Dave, like one of the other guys, I used water based "Smooth Prime"  

 on my RV-8 cowl. I just rolled it on then sanded it down. Most of  

 the smooth prime is sanded off, but the pinholes are filled in. I  

 wouldn't use anything but this stuff in the future. Easy to use,  

 easy to clean up.



 Walt Shipley

Deems Davis

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 3:01 pm Post subject: Cowling Filler

David, I've used Smooth Prime on all of my fiberglass parts as the 

primer (after filling the pin holes).   

http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2047%20Spinner%20and%20Cowling/slides/DSC04322.html

 I haven't painted the cowl yet, supposedly the painter is going to pick 

up the project Jul 1 for paint, then final assembly and.........

(The credit card trick really doesn't take that long, when used w/ 

smoothprime and it insures that the pinholes are filled) .  the credit 

cards will definately NOT work after use so just send them to me and I 

will 'dispose' of them "appropriately" O

Deems Davis # 406

'Its all done....Its just not put together'

http://deemsrv10.com/

David Cudney wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 Walt and Deems:

 What did you guys use after filled the Smooth Prime?  Did you use a 

 primer and if so what kind?  Have you finish painted the cowl?  And if 

 so what did you use?  What I'm getting at is were there any 

 compatibility problems? I was hoping to use a two part polyurethane or 

 polyester primer and then fly the plane for a year or so before having 

 it professionally painted.  I don't want any compatibility problems 

 down the line -- so far Smooth Prime sounds like the answer for me.  

 Clearly heavy spraying with Feather Fill did not work.  I'm hoping to 

 avoid hours of mixing small batches of filler and scraping it in with 

 a credit card, blade, or squeegee --- will the credit cards still work 

 after such abuse?

 Thanks for your help

 dave

 On Jun 2, 2008, at 5:07 AM, rveighta wrote:

> 

>

> Dave, like one of the other guys, I used water based "Smooth Prime" 

> on my RV-8 cowl. I just rolled it on then sanded it down. Most of the 

> smooth prime is sanded off, but the pinholes are filled in. I 

> wouldn't use anything but this stuff in the future. Easy to use, easy 

> to clean up.

>

> Walt Shipley

>

>

sarg314(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 9:48 pm Post subject: cowling filler

I've had mixed results with UV smooth prime.  Often it cures with tiny 

bubbles in it or has just too much texture.  By the time you sand all 

the texture out, it's all gone.  It worked well on my spinner but it 

seemed like it was an awful lot of work.  Recently I seemed to get 

better results thinning it slightly - about 5% - with water.  That may 

suppress the bubbles and texturing a bit.



Polyfiber advised using a foam roller (their preferred method 

apparently) with the smallest foam cell size possible.  I think that did 

help.  It seems I have to put on about 6 very thin coats, then sand 95% 

of it away.  Yes, 6.  That's what they told me. I do 3, sand it a bit 

and then 3 more.  And you must let it sit for a couple weeks before 

painting to let the water get out of it.



Does any one have any advice on using this stuff?  Am I doing it wrong? 

  Polyfiber doesn't seem to have all the recommended procedures in one 

place.  Some is on the can, some on their website and some you get by 

calling up and asking.  Frustrating.  But I guess that's fiberglass for 

you.  It's expensive too.



--

Tom S. - RV-6A

stuck in fiberglass hell.

yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 6:35 am Post subject: cowling filler

Tom:



I called and got similar advice on the roller application.  How long  

did you let it dry between roller applications to get your three plus  

three coats?  I plan to let it dry for a couple of weeks after the  

last sanding before I apply a seal coat of either epoxy or  

polyurethane top primer.  They stressed that it is necessary to put on  

a top coat of a primer that requires a catalyst particularly if you  

plan to fly the plane for a while before painting.

Thanks to all of you for your help



dave

On Jun 2, 2008, at 10:43 PM, tom sargent wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I've had mixed results with UV smooth prime.  Often it cures with  

 tiny bubbles in it or has just too much texture.  By the time you  

 sand all the texture out, it's all gone.  It worked well on my  

 spinner but it seemed like it was an awful lot of work.  Recently I  

 seemed to get better results thinning it slightly - about 5% - with  

 water.  That may suppress the bubbles and texturing a bit.



 Polyfiber advised using a foam roller (their preferred method  

 apparently) with the smallest foam cell size possible.  I think that  

 did help.  It seems I have to put on about 6 very thin coats, then  

 sand 95% of it away.  Yes, 6.  That's what they told me. I do 3,  

 sand it a bit and then 3 more.  And you must let it sit for a couple  

 weeks before painting to let the water get out of it.



 Does any one have any advice on using this stuff?  Am I doing it  

 wrong?  Polyfiber doesn't seem to have all the recommended  

 procedures in one place.  Some is on the can, some on their website  

 and some you get by calling up and asking.  Frustrating.  But I  

 guess that's fiberglass for you.  It's expensive too.



 --

 Tom S. - RV-6A

 stuck in fiberglass hell.

sarg314(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:03 pm Post subject: cowling filler

David:

	Not very long at all.  10 minutes seems to do it.  On the spinner, I 

think I put on the 3 coats one night and the other 3 the next night.



David Cudney wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Tom:

 

 I called and got similar advice on the roller application.  How long did 

 you let it dry between roller applications to get your three plus three 

 coats?  I plan to let it dry for a couple of weeks after the last 

 sanding before I apply a seal coat of either epoxy or polyurethane top 

 primer.  They stressed that it is necessary to put on a top coat of a 

 primer that requires a catalyst particularly if you plan to fly the 

 plane for a while before painting.

 

 

 Thanks to all of you for your help

 

 dave

sarg314(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:21 pm Post subject: cowling filler

I should add that I live in southern arizona, so it's hot and super dry 

here (5% humidity yesterday) so things dry out fast.



tom sargent wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 David:

     Not very long at all.  10 minutes seems to do it.  On the spinner, I 

 think I put on the 3 coats one night and the other 3 the next night.

 

 David Cudney wrote:

> 

>

> Tom:

>

> I called and got similar advice on the roller application.  How long 

> did you let it dry between roller applications to get your three plus 

> three coats?  I plan to let it dry for a couple of weeks after the 

> last sanding before I apply a seal coat of either epoxy or 

> polyurethane top primer.  They stressed that it is necessary to put on 

> a top coat of a primer that requires a catalyst particularly if you 

> plan to fly the plane for a while before painting.

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