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heat transfer compound

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williamtsullivan(at)att.n
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:32 am Post subject: heat transfer compound

Do you have to use a heat transfer compound on plugs in a 447?

   

                                                 Bill Sullivan

                                                 Kolb Firestar/447

                                                  Windsor Locks, Ct.

 [quote][b]

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Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:35 am Post subject: Re: heat transfer compound

The 2 strokes do not get any paste, lube or anti-seize at all. They are supposed to be a dry thread and torqued because the heads on the 2 strokes are softer aluminum (different materials than the 4 strokes) and can be damaged with improper torque. This can happen whether they are dry if you use to much torque, but more susceptible if lubricated.

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Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
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imap8ntr(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:42 pm Post subject: heat transfer compound

Roger

On my 582 the US Dealer/Distributor had me put antiseize on the sparkplugs 

(silver colored antiseize.)

Ivan

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Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 3:54 pm Post subject: Re: heat transfer compound

Hi Ivan,



I went back through all the 2 stroke manuals and it doesn't say anything about the use of anti-seize on 2 stroke plugs, but it is taught not to use anything on 2 stroke threads in the Rotax classes. If the manual doesn't say use it there must be a reason for it.

It does say to torque them on a cold engine only. Remember the heads are aluminum and the plug threads are steel. No gorilla arms when tightening plugs.



The maint. manual says to torque the plugs on a cold engine to 238 in/lbs or 19.8 ft/lbs. page 11-4 sec. 11.8



The installation manual says to torque the plugs with a CHT sensor ring in place to 133 in/lbs. or 11 ft/lbs  pg 20-1 fig. 49



This is quite a difference. Might help to call Lockwood for a clarification.

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Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

imap8ntr(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:32 pm Post subject: heat transfer compound

Thanks for the info.  Kemmeries Aviation,  the US importer for Air Creation 

Trikes which all come with Rotax engines,  gave me this info.  I will double 

check it this month.



Ivan

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Float Flyr

Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:46 pm Post subject: heat transfer compound

I've been criticized for this before but I always torque the plugs on my 582 to 220 in.lb. intentionally.  I tend to check my plugs quite often (5-10hr) and have never had a problem with the lower torque.  I do check my torque wrench annually for calibration at that torque.  I  also never use anything on the threads of my plugs except a soft clean cloth.  Whenever I remove all the plugs I will put a clean shop towel over the plug openings to keep any grit from getting into the combustion chambers.    

   

Noel  

   

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Noel Loveys
Kitfox III-A
Aerocet 1100 Floats

Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:52 am Post subject: Re: heat transfer compound

Hi Noel,



I don't see any thing to criticize. You torque the plugs within 1 ft/lb. Not a big deal since many don't torque them at all.

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Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

Float Flyr

Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:31 pm Post subject: heat transfer compound

I'm a bit anal about torque and using a calibrated wrench.  I have been

criticized for doing the lower torque but I do it for two reasons.  1. I

pull my plugs a lot... I never really trust the EGTs to do more than give me

a trend.  Plugs will always tell the whole story.  2. I feel the 20 in. Lb.

will create less stretching of the heads.  I've been torquing plugs into

outboard engines, snowmobiles etc.. for more years than I like to think

about and I've yet to strip a thread.. I've also yet to lose a plug from

having it too loose.



The important thing is consistency.  You can only get that if you use a

torque wrench or for the real small stuff a torque meter.



Thanks for the reply Roger



Noel



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