jefflinebaugh(at)bellsout Guest
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:55 am Post subject: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/03/08 |
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Termites are ferocious in FL. It may be difficult for you to get a termite
bond, depending on the area, if you go with wood construction. Also, some
codes require concrete block for hurricane protection. Sounds like you will
need to do your homework on your particular area. As my AF flight commander
always said...avoid the big three: dumb, dangerous or different.
Jeff Linebaugh
jefflinebaugh(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Time: 07:35:05 AM PST US
From: d wntzl <dwntzl(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Hanger House
Hey Guys,
I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle.
Originally
planned on a steel
stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost
effective.
My question
is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of either
options??
I would
hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous.
Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
Time: 07:35:27 AM PST US
From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: cowling filler
Tom:
I called and got similar advice on the roller application. How long
did you let it dry between roller applications to get your three plus
three coats? I plan to let it dry for a couple of weeks after the
last sanding before I apply a seal coat of either epoxy or
polyurethane top primer. They stressed that it is necessary to put on
a top coat of a primer that requires a catalyst particularly if you
plan to fly the plane for a while before painting.
Thanks to all of you for your help
dave
On Jun 2, 2008, at 10:43 PM, tom sargent wrote:
Quote: |
I've had mixed results with UV smooth prime. Often it cures with
tiny bubbles in it or has just too much texture. By the time you
sand all the texture out, it's all gone. It worked well on my
spinner but it seemed like it was an awful lot of work. Recently I
seemed to get better results thinning it slightly - about 5% - with
water. That may suppress the bubbles and texturing a bit.
Polyfiber advised using a foam roller (their preferred method
apparently) with the smallest foam cell size possible. I think that
did help. It seems I have to put on about 6 very thin coats, then
sand 95% of it away. Yes, 6. That's what they told me. I do 3,
sand it a bit and then 3 more. And you must let it sit for a couple
weeks before painting to let the water get out of it.
Does any one have any advice on using this stuff? Am I doing it
wrong? Polyfiber doesn't seem to have all the recommended
procedures in one place. Some is on the can, some on their website
and some you get by calling up and asking. Frustrating. But I
guess that's fiberglass for you. It's expensive too.
--
Tom S. - RV-6A
stuck in fiberglass hell.
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________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
Time: 09:16:56 AM PST US
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Hanger House
Dave,
Most houses in the US and Canada are wood framed. I would expect the costs
of insurance will have more to do with replacement costs than anything else.
The building codes will require a fire separation wall between the hanger
and house, just as they will between a garage and a house. This wall will
most likely be constructed of gypsum wall board on a frame of whatever the
house is framed with, or it could be a concrete wall if the house is
concrete. Wood frame construction can and should be designed to handle
almost any anticipated wind forces, including hurricanes. Often it is best
to see how others are building or have built in the same location to get a
feel for the most cost effective methods.
Terry
RV-8A
Seattle
Architect (housing)
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of d wntzl
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 7:29 AM
Subject: Re: Hanger House
Hey Guys,
I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally planned
on a steel
stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost
effective. My question
is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of either
options?? I would
hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous.
Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe
________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
Time: 11:19:14 AM PST US
From: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie6a(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Hanger House
Most of the hanger homes on OUR airpark are of cement block
construction and new ones are going in the 450K range. Luckily we got
here a few years ago.
Ollie, Loves Landing Airpark, Central FL>
On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 10:29 AM, d wntzl <dwntzl(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
Quote: | Hey Guys,
I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally
planned
|
Quote: | on a steel
stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost
effective. My question
is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of
either
|
Quote: | options?? I would
hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous.
Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe
|
________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
Time: 12:36:45 PM PST US
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Hanger House
Most on our airpark have built big steel buildings with a partition to
create the house. I could not bring myself to do this (I don't think they
are attractive for residential) so I got a quote for a chip face colored
block building. Surprise, it was cheaper. That is what I have and I love
it. It is attractive, cooler, has flat walls inside, needs no paint, and is
residential. Did I mention it looks much better than the steel warehouse
buildings? Just my opinion of course.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB almost 100 hours now
[quote] --
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