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Rear top skin

 
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Ianrat



Joined: 31 Mar 2008
Posts: 43
Location: Brisbane AUSTRALIA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 4:57 am    Post subject: Rear top skin Reply with quote

Has any one got any suggestions regarding the fitting of the top rear skin.

How do you stop it puckering between the rivets at the lower front section where it meets the longeron. I started in the middle and worked both ways as it is listed in the plans but have a few little puckers.

Thank you

Ianrat


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bryanmmartin



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1018

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 5:42 am    Post subject: Rear top skin Reply with quote

I used a wooden block to work the metal into that compound curve and
then doubled the number of rivets on that section. It turned out
pretty nice.

Quote:


Has any one got any suggestions regarding the fitting of the top
rear skin.

How do you stop it puckering between the rivets at the at the lower
front section were it meets the longeron. I started in the middle
and worked both ways as it is listed in the plans but have a few
little puckers.



--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.


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Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
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psm(at)att.net
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 7:32 am    Post subject: Rear top skin Reply with quote

Hi lanrat,

It sounds like you are talking about the forward section of the rear
top skin. The only way to get it to lay reasonably flat is to tuck
the forward ends under the side skin.

I am currently fighting with the rear section of the top skin. I had
it fitting nicely, but when I installed the horizontal stabilizer the
last bulkhead moved forward about an inch at the top. Today I get to
cut and drill the replacement. The tricky part is to get the cutouts
for the horizontal stabilizer in the right places before drilling the
rivet holes.

Have fun,

Paul
XL getting close

At 05:57 AM 6/27/2008, you wrote:

Quote:
Has any one got any suggestions regarding the fitting of the top rear skin.

How do you stop it puckering between the rivets at the at the lower
front section were it meets the longeron. I started in the middle
and worked both ways as it is listed in the plans but have a few
little puckers.

Thank you

Ianrat



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Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Guest





PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:38 am    Post subject: Rear top skin Reply with quote

The .016 is going to give you nothing but trouble from dents as people get in and out to making it look good. I took my .016 on the first plane and made it out of .032 and it looks great but on the second plane I put .025 for the entire turtle deck and it looks good but not as good as the .032.
On the first plane I just took off the .016 and match drilled it to .032 and put it right back on and it fit perfectly. I decided to use .025 because the rear skin gets dented from people pushing down on the bulkhead to move the plane around.

Jeff

Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.


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DaveG601XL



Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 351
Location: Cincinnati, Oh

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:42 am    Post subject: Re: Rear top skin Reply with quote

Ianrat,

When I got done putting mine on with only moderate success, my Tech Counselor said I should have tried to use cargo straps to help pull it down better.

Good luck,


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mfazio



Joined: 04 Apr 2008
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 7:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear top skin Reply with quote

Does temperature have anything to do with the "pucker"? If I drill and rivet while the material is cold will it pucker when it warms up?

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