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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 7:34 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

All-
I'm polishing 95%+ of my project, but don't see any way of making the top skin/tip fiberglass rib juncture look good without a bit of filler and paint. Not because of gaps, but "Crinkles".I've decided to paint just the nose skin and tips of the outboards and stab.
I've seen projects that used regular Bondo and the damned stuff cracks and comes out. Fiberfil sticks great, but you can't work it like Bondo. I'm afraid of grinding off aluminum trying to smooth out the Fiberfil.
Any alternatives, or should I just haul my outboards and stab to a paint shop and let them deal with it? Not that that's a guarantee- I remember a posting many moons ago where a paint shop ground off the tops of the rivets while painting.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Systems/Corvair 90%
[quote][b]


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psm(at)att.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 8:52 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

Hi Bill,

I too am wondering how to deal with the small gaps left on my wing tips. One thing I am considering is to build up the fiberglass with epoxy laden flox. This is similar to filling with bondo or similar stuff, but instead of adding a new layer of material it actually bonds to the composite structure and becomes part of it. The flox will not be as easy to make beautiful, but that is not my goal. I am more interested in providing a good surface for the air flow.

I am also planning to do a similar job on the front of my engine cowl. After installing both the top and bottom to my plane there are gaps in the front corners that I want to smooth over. Epoxy and flox should do the job with possible glass cloth in areas that need larger fills.

It seems odd that the most difficult problems to fix on an "All Metal" plane are actually fiberglass issues.


Paul
XL getting close


At 08:31 AM 6/29/2008, you wrote:

[quote]All-
I'm polishing 95%+ of my project, but don't see any way of making the top skin/tip fiberglass rib juncture look good without a bit of filler and paint. Not because of gaps, but "Crinkles".I've decided to paint just the nose skin and tips of the outboards and stab.
I've seen projects that used regular Bondo and the damned stuff cracks and comes out. Fiberfil sticks great, but you can't work it like Bondo. I'm afraid of grinding off aluminum trying to smooth out the Fiberfil.
Any alternatives, or should I just haul my outboards and stab to a paint shop and let them deal with it? Not that that's a guarantee- I remember a posting many moons ago where a paint shop ground off the tops of the rivets while painting.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Systems/Corvair 90%

Quote:

[/b]
[b]


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larry(at)macsmachine.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:29 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

Hi Bill;
I think the polished 601 will look great, but I'd put paint on anything
called frontal edge surfaces. I used to clean a C-150 aluminum wings of
bugs and the juice changed
the character of the lead edges during cleaning. On my 601, the dark
blue paint cleans up much easier than aluminum and the bugs are a little
harder to notice right away.
The bugs are very noticeable on a light color like my nose cowl, but
oddly, they don't seem to collect on the rudder at all.

http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezfrontright.gif

I'd keep the painting in-house if possible and use an acrylic-enamel if
not a water-base urethane. It's not that hard once you get started with it.
Do have a finished aircraft before beginning paint though.

Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Bill Naumuk wrote:
Quote:
All-
I'm polishing 95%+ of my project, but don't see any way of making
the top skin/tip fiberglass rib juncture look good without a bit of
filler and paint. Not because of gaps, but "Crinkles".I've decided to
paint just the nose skin and tips of the outboards and stab.
I've seen projects that used regular Bondo and the damned stuff
cracks and comes out. Fiberfil sticks great, but you can't work it
like Bondo. I'm afraid of grinding off aluminum trying to smooth
out the Fiberfil.
Any alternatives, or should I just haul my outboards and stab to a
paint shop and let them deal with it? Not that that's a guarantee- I
remember a posting many moons ago where a paint shop ground off the
tops of the rivets while painting.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Systems/Corvair 90%


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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:51 pm    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

Larry-
Aye, bucko, but the question was, what do you use for filler that will
stick and stay stuck on those painted areas? I won't be needing more than
what it takes to clean up the edges of the outboard tips and stab tips.
Purely for vanity's sake.
---


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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 6:00 pm    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

Paul-
You're in close to the same situation as me.I don't have gaps, but the "Crinkles" left from trying to form the aluminum around the fiberglass. You're also basically talking about the same stuff as I'm thinking of using. It's Bondo with fiberglass threads mixed in. It'll never come off, but once it sets up it's like steel.
I think I'm going to talk to a guy I went to high school with and owns a body shop. He's only 10 minutes away so hopefully I can get him to do the job without grinding my rivets off.
      Bill

[quote] ---


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psm(at)att.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 6:29 pm    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

Hi Bill,

Actually, Bondo is a polyester resin based product. It will shrink with time. The stuff I would prefer is epoxy binder holding flox.

I learned about flox and its use by purchasing a composite training kit from Aircraft Spruce. After starting on my FWF I learned there was a great deal of composite work needed in the kit from US Jabiru and the instructions seemed to assume the builder already is an expert at composite work. This would be true if we just finished building a Jabiru plane like they kind they sell, but I'm afraid my own composite knowledge was sorely lacking.

Have fun,

Paul
XL getting close


At 06:57 PM 6/29/2008, you wrote:
[quote]Paul-
You're in close to the same situation as me.I don't have gaps, but the "Crinkles" left from trying to form the aluminum around the fiberglass. You're also basically talking about the same stuff as I'm thinking of using. It's Bondo with fiberglass threads mixed in. It'll never come off, but once it sets up it's like steel.
I think I'm going to talk to a guy I went to high school with and owns a body shop. He's only 10 minutes away so hopefully I can get him to do the job without grinding my rivets off.
Bill[b]


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larry(at)macsmachine.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 6:22 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

I don't casually use any filler Bill,
with the exception of one spot where I dinged the wing skin the area of
a dime.
and on the fiberglass cowling.
In that spot of aluminum, I used Bondo. Seems to have worked.

Larry McFarland
do not archive

Bill Naumuk wrote:
[quote]

Larry-
Aye, bucko, but the question was, what do you use for filler that
will stick and stay stuck on those painted areas? I won't be needing
more than what it takes to clean up the edges of the outboard tips and
stab tips. Purely for vanity's sake.
---


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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:24 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

Larry-
I'm not crazy about using filler, either. I can live without it, but
once again, it's vanity.
Bill
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JohnDRead(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:04 pm    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

I had another thought re filling the rivets or fixing the crinkles. Why not stand back about twenty feet then look at your handy work and see if filling the rivets will matter a hoot!

John Read

Phone: 303-648-3261
Fax: 303-648-3262
Cell: 719-494-4567
In a message dated 6/29/2008 8:01:36 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, naumuk(at)alltel.net writes:
[quote] Paul-
You're in close to the same situation as me.I don't have gaps, but the "Crinkles" left from trying to form the aluminum around the fiberglass. You're also basically talking about the same stuff as I'm thinking of using. It's Bondo with fiberglass threads mixed in. It'll never come off, but once it sets up it's like steel.
I think I'm going to talk to a guy I went to high school with and owns a body shop. He's only 10 minutes away so hopefully I can get him to do the job without grinding my rivets off.
        Bill

[quote] ---


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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:12 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

John, John, John-
No homebuilder is going to say "Nice job" from 20 feet away. The only people who would wouldn't know an aileron from an elevator. Vanity or pride, take your pick.
The instinctive habit of builders zeroing in on the fiberglass/aluminum junctures is precisely why this discussion keeps recurring. I've seen everything from Jeff Small's zero filler HDS with gorgeous seams to 1/2" gaps plugged with Bondo that has fallen out and left, well, 1/2" gaps flapping in the wind. The goal is to find a filler that's going to be around for the long run if you have to use it.
After seeing Mark Langford's KR2, filling rivet domes is going overboard in my opinion. Mark has arguably the most highly tweaked Corvair conversion around in his plane, but you'd swear the airframe was built as an afterthought. Raw, unfilled, unpainted fiberglass. Think of exposed rivet domes over every square inch of flying surface, but he's 20 knots faster than the cleanest 601 out there.
Think about it. I just gave a review of at least 3 different homebuilts that I looked at in the past 5 years. You're not going to get that kind of a detailed description from viewing 20 feet away. Don't kid yourself- builders are going to notice gross imperfections, and they're really the only people whose opinion counts.
Incidentally- just saw a restored DC-3 at a local fly-in. You'd swear the rivet lines were laid out by drunken epileptics!
Bill
    do not archive
[quote] ---


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entecrj(at)sbcglobal.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 7:02 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

[quote] Subject: Re: Filler


John, John, John-
No homebuilder is going to say "Nice job" from 20 feet away.
++++++++++++++++++++++++

This discussion reminds me of an open house I attended several years ago at Zenairs open house in Mexico MO.

Someone had flown in a 601HD, appeared to be scratch built, rivet lines and sheet metal edges not particularly straight, paint job had overspray in some areas.
Two gentlemen were standing about ten feet away observing the workmanship, the first one was pointing out the shortcomings of the workmanship, when the second one made the simple comment, "yeh but he flew here and we drove!"

Nuff said.

R. Johnson

do not archive


[b]


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d.goddard(at)ns.sympatico
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:18 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

I don't blame anyone for wanting their aircraft to look as nice as practical, but it might help to have some perspective on the appearance thing. Have you ever seen a Pietenpol or a Baby Ace, how about a Volksplane? The RV guys are going to look down their noses at you even if you gold plate your Zenith. The aformentioned planes often look like they were built from scrap found behind the barn and old bedsheets, yet fly and perform as intended. You chose a Zenith, filling and filing and polishing will yield-- a Zenith! Zeniths are built with rivets that have a hole in them.
[quote] ---


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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 10:21 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

Dave-
Agreed, but I've seen an absolutely beautiful natural mahogany shellaced Piet. Looks like a piece of flying furniture.
I've been at this long enough to have accepted the fact that MY project will fly on MY terms when it gets around to it.
Once again, vanity or pride.
Bill
[quote] ---


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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:41 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

Francisco-
I sold my share of a a very nice 180HP Superhawk to build my project and have many times (On nice flying days) regretted the decision. All you can do is keep plugging on.
Most of us will only build once or twice in a lifetime. You might as well set the highest standards for your workmanship instead of spending your time thinking up excuses for crappy work down the line. It's all up to the individual. You can survive in a cardboard box, or you can live in a respectable owner built home.
I don't know how a question about a recommendation for fillers mutated into this subject, but I've said my piece and now I'm going out to work on my project. Long time listers know that I'm on vacation. I haven't posted this many words in the past 6 months!
Good building, all!
Bill
do not archive
[quote] ---


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psm(at)att.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:53 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

Things could be worse. We could be talking about Scotchbrite or structure failures.

As a "Seasoned" engineer, I can tell you that these issues over how perfect to do things are at the root of all big projects in the real world. The long term wisdom is that "Good enough" is "Perfect". That means you must decide just how good is good enough and move on from there.

For an amateur airplane builder, this is a very difficult decision. We could choose to reach for perfection (filling rivet stem holes) or do a very sloppy job that just gets our plane airborne. For my money, the nice balance is to shoot for maximum performance (which means minimum weight and good fit of parts) and leave the building of "Show Planes" to others.

However, it has been said and I will second the motion - it is up to each builder to make his own decisions in these and many other things. That is the nice part of building stuff without a boss hounding you.

Paul
XL almost done


At 12:37 PM 7/1/2008, you wrote:
[quote] I don't know how a question about a recommendation for fillers mutated into this subject, but I've said my piece and now I'm going out to work on my project. [b]


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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 1:11 pm    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

My list for decisions.

#1 Safety

#2 Efficiency - The sooner I finish the sooner I go flying.

#3 Cost effective - The less I spend on the plane the more money I have
for fuel.
.
.
.
.
#1,000,001 - How someone else thinks it looks.

For me the airplane is a tool. I've never been one of the "ship in a
bottle" types.

Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN

"Hope for the best,
but prepare for the worst."

do not archive


---


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d.goddard(at)ns.sympatico
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 1:54 pm    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

I think you've got your priorities set just about perfectly.
---


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d.goddard(at)ns.sympatico
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 2:01 pm    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

It would be a rare Piet, I'd love to see it (The Peit was one of my first aviation fantasy's) and your 601 will be a rare and exceptional Zenith. I'd never consider polishing that much ally, because the job NEVER ends.
[quote] ---


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dredmoody(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 4:27 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

As long as we are taking a census here..... my humble and universally ignored opinion is this: if it means enough to a builder to fill in all those zillions of rivets, it would make more sense to dimple all the rivet holes in the first place then set them flush. Then the sanding and filling in would actually have a higher payback and the sanding would be more controllable.

That being said, I did not dimple and would not fill the rivet holes. If the level of scrutiny reaches criticism of my rivet holes I will employ a Cajun admonition, "Hey.... take you ass back over to you own plane, YOU! 'Garde de dan.... fis putan la merde comme ca."

Ed
[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 6:28 am    Post subject: Filler Reply with quote

BINGO for me as well !

--


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