jadecuir(at)comcast.net
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 Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:31 am Post subject: Anodized Panels |
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I used to work for an Aerospace machine shop that had numerous parts
Anodized by FAA approved vendors. Type I (chromic) anodize is very thin
, maybe .0002", penetration and buildup. It would fade very quickly if
exposed to UV light. Type II (sulfuric) anodize can be applied to
thickness' approaching .0010", and if dyed properly, is quite resistant
to fading, especially black. Type III (hard, sulfuric) anodize can be
as thick as .0040", but the dye does not penetrate that deep. We made
housings for a company that built 90 degree drill heads and air-drives
for aerospace builders, and they wanted Type III, .0020-0030" thick,
black. I believe they would resist fading quite well, and also stand up
to rough handling without much wear.
Keep in mind that if you go this route, you have to compensate for
the buildup on all your dimensions that matter. A .250" dia. hole would
shrink by the thickness of the anodize ( e.g., .0020 thick = .001
penetration and .001 buildup = .248"dia). All your holes, cutouts and
countersink diameters should be increased accordingly. Burrs and sharp
edges must be removed and rounded prior to treatment, or they get
knife-sharp and are prone to chipping. When you take it to the shop,
give them a sample piece of known dimension, like a cylinder or small
sheet (leftover from cutout?), so they can measure periodically during
processing. Use a certified shop, and the results will be better than
some shop that does decorative work only. If you don't need
certification to MIL-A-8625, the price goes down.
John DeCuir
RV-4, N204CP (670 hrs)
SNS, CA
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