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Connectors for trim servos?

 
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rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:43 am    Post subject: Connectors for trim servos? Reply with quote

Real basic question: I need to connect the wires (2 power, 3 indicator, 24
or 26 gage?) coming from Ray Allen trim servos to a removable connector.
What's appropriate? D connector, molex, something else?

Thanks,
Ralph Finch


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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 12:34 pm    Post subject: Connectors for trim servos? Reply with quote

At 12:35 PM 7/26/2008 -0700, you wrote:
Quote:


Real basic question: I need to connect the wires (2 power, 3 indicator, 24
or 26 gage?) coming from Ray Allen trim servos to a removable connector.
What's appropriate? D connector, molex, something else?

Thanks,
Ralph Finch

Here's one of several dozen alternatives.

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html

Bob . . .

----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
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rdunhamtn(at)hotmail.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 6:24 am    Post subject: Connectors for trim servos? Reply with quote

Ralph C
 
Those pesky little Ray Allen trim servo wires are a pain in the neck C aren't they?
 
A friend of mine recently brought me a Narco AT165 which he had wired to a GRT Enigma EFIS. The EFIS has a low-density 15 pin D-Sub connector which outputs the gray (Gillam) scale data to the transponder. He had used a computer cable which he cut in half and connected the wires to the 18 pin Molex connector in the Narco's rack.
 
I liked the idea of the computer cable because it was neat C shielded C contained good quality color-coded stranded wire and made a neat installation. That is C until you got to the cut end. The 26AWG wires just weren't robust enough to serve at the junction between cable and tray connector. Also C he had "shielded everything" which is a whole 'nother post:O)
 
At first C I discarded the idea of using the cable due to the 26AWG wires. Heck C my wire stripper doesn't go smaller than 22AWG! However C reality set in as I could not seem to find 9 or more conductor shielded wire in 22AWG at my local supply house unless I bought 500 feet of it! At over $2 per foot C I wasn't going to go there.
 
So C how to make 26AWG wire more robust. After all C it's plenty good enough to carry microVolts and milliAmps C right?
 
Here's what I did.
 
First C prepped the cable.
  • Cut the cable back to fresh wire leaving ~1" conductor length.
  • Cut the drain wire flush with the outer insulation and foil shield.
  • Slid medium and large heat shrink over the cable for later.
Second C prepped the conductors.
  • Stripped the 26AWG wires just enough to accept .062" Molex pins.
  • Slid 1/16" heat shrink (white for signal) over the wire.
  • Crimped on the Molex pins.
    • Pull test to verify good crimp.
  • Slid heat shrink over both insulation and wire grip.
  • Applied heat to heat shrink on individual wires.
    • Now I have a beefed up wire. It's still 26AWG C but it is well supported.
  • Repeat for all 9 encoder data wires and 4 grounds for the Enigma.
Third C populated the intermediate 12 pin Molex connector.
  • Inserted the wires into the holes until click was heard and felt.
  • Gathered the wires together for maximum mutual support.
  • Slid heat shrink up over bundle overlapping cable about an inch.
  • Applied heat to heat shrink over cable and bundle of wires entering Molex.
    • Now I have a beefed up cable to connector junction. Even more support.
Fourth C prepped wire for 12 pin intermediate Molex to 18 pin Molex Narco tray connector.
  • Cut 18AWG color coded wire from old bundle laying around house.
    • Length minimal to get the wires neatly spread as needed.
    • Had to repeat some colors C no biggy.
  • On .062" Molex end used same technic as above to prep wires.
  • On Narco tray end crimped on KK type connectors without heat shrink.
    • The pins would not insert with heat shrink in the way.
Fifth C populated .062" Molex as in step "Third" above.
 
Sixth C populated 18 pin Molex connector on Narco slide-in tray.
 
Seventh C created table using MS Word to keep track of all wires C wire colors C connectors C destinations and functions.
 
Eighth C verified table by painstakingly examining each and every wire.
 
Ninth C verified continuity between the 15 pin D-sub (origen) and the 18 pin tray connector (destination).
 
What my friend now has is a very neat cable installation that is also quite robust. I can't wait to see if it passes the avionics shop testing process. His wiring job had yielded "ALT INVALID" results and ATC said his altitude info was wacked.
 
BTW C used a second 3 pin .062" Molex conector for the Narco's power and ground wires. It lies right smack on top of the 12 pin connector and looks great. These were safetied with plastic tie wraps so they won't work loose.
 
Rodney in Tennessee
Unabashed Nuckollhead

Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety. Help protect your kids. [quote][b]


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:25 am    Post subject: Connectors for trim servos? Reply with quote

Thanks Bob, as usual you have the precise answer...

RF

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Eric M. Jones



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 565
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 5:42 am    Post subject: Re: Connectors for trim servos? Reply with quote

Those Ray Allen trim boxes (they are not servos), have a number of deficiencies--the wires being one of them.

Though many people use the D-subs, I prefer Molex locking C-Grid connectors that are used in computers. I also suggest opening the trim box and mounting the connector header on the wall. This will get rid of the maximum amount of the teeny wires.

While you are screwing around in the box's innards--may I suggest a few improvements to their trim box?

1) To prevent dirt entering the box, the threaded rod extension can be covered with a little ballpoint pen cap or similar. Likewise the square actuator rod bottom hollow can be filled and a brush wiper installed.

2) Noise suppressor capacitors are easy to add. One .01 uF ceramic across the motor brushes and one 0.1 uF ceramic from each brush to ground (which you might want to add) is a standard approach. Keep the leads critically short.

3) Sealing the cover lid with a little goo or tape wouldn't hurt.

If you want to convert the Ray Allen boxes to true servos, or see a schematic of what is inside the box, see my website.

"Democracy is the theory that the common people know what they want and deserve to get it good and hard." -- H. L. Mencken


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