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-7 tipup rear window fitting problem

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davist(at)xsinet.co.za
Guest

Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 2:02 pm Post subject: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem

I used some sawn off broom sticks with foam padding to push the plexi from 

the inside of the cockpit against the skin.  I used about 5 and wedged them 

onto the floor.  This squeezes the Sika out- no problem tho as you can mask 

off an area 1/4-3/8" beyond the plexi, prep it as per instructions, and run 

a bead of Sika along the aft edge of the plexi, This makes a neat fillet and 

gives it the holding strength. The thin gap on the outside, between the skin 

and plexi can be neatly finished by masking off about 1/8" from the edge of 

the skin and onto the plexi and filling with tank sealant.  Use finger to 

smooth it off.  Don't be too fazed by the min 1/8 gap as the coverage is 

over a large area and although the plexi is almost flush with the skin on 

the outside, there is a slight taper away from the skin the further aft the 

plexi extends, which will be filled with a thicker layer of Sika.  I was 

amazed with the result. The plexi pushes the skin outwards and fits 

snugly -no holes, no puckering, no waves and ugly screws/rivets etc.



I also made the gap between the front and rear canopy slightly larger and 

built in a _n_ seal.  This solved the problem of having to raise the rear 

canopy up 1/8 and finding the front part without any support.  Used some 

square self-adhesive 1/8 rubber door seal to form a "dam" which I filled 

with Sika,  some vaseline on the front Plexi, closed the canopy and when the 

excess was hard I meerly sanded it flush, leaving a neat air-tight seal. 

Obviously you need to apply electrical tape to mask/protect the areas you 

dont want Sika on.



hope this helps- feel free to contact me if you need any explanations



Trevor  RV-7 Tip up + RV-7 slider with only Sika - sorry, one hole on the 

slider for the locking handle!



---

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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
Guest

Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 5:28 pm Post subject: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem

Thanks for the info. My problem might be the reverse of yours: the 

outside/bottom edge of the plexi about 8-10" behind the roll bar, where 

the top  skin starts its sweep up as well as back, is actually wider 

than the fuselage in that area. The result is that there's a small but 

noticeable gap between the plexi & the curved edge of the top skin. The 

edge of the plexi, 1 1/4" below the edge of the skin at that point, is 

pushing the skin out. There isn't enough curvature in the window to take 

that area vertical to match the skin's 'desire' to be vertical in that 

area. Therefore, the ~4" wide area of the skin leans outboard at the top 

if it's cleco'd along the longeron rivet line.



It's not bad, maybe 1/16-1/8" at the worst point, but if there's a way 

to make it really fit I'd like to try it.



Charlie



Trevor wrote:

[quote] 



 I used some sawn off broom sticks with foam padding to push the plexi 

 from the inside of the cockpit against the skin.  I used about 5 and 

 wedged them onto the floor.  This squeezes the Sika out- no problem 

 tho as you can mask off an area 1/4-3/8" beyond the plexi, prep it as 

 per instructions, and run a bead of Sika along the aft edge of the 

 plexi, This makes a neat fillet and gives it the holding strength. The 

 thin gap on the outside, between the skin and plexi can be neatly 

 finished by masking off about 1/8" from the edge of the skin and onto 

 the plexi and filling with tank sealant.  Use finger to smooth it 

 off.  Don't be too fazed by the min 1/8 gap as the coverage is over a 

 large area and although the plexi is almost flush with the skin on the 

 outside, there is a slight taper away from the skin the further aft 

 the plexi extends, which will be filled with a thicker layer of Sika.  

 I was amazed with the result. The plexi pushes the skin outwards and 

 fits snugly -no holes, no puckering, no waves and ugly screws/rivets etc.



 I also made the gap between the front and rear canopy slightly larger 

 and built in a _n_ seal.  This solved the problem of having to raise 

 the rear canopy up 1/8 and finding the front part without any 

 support.  Used some square self-adhesive 1/8 rubber door seal to form 

 a "dam" which I filled with Sika,  some vaseline on the front Plexi, 

 closed the canopy and when the excess was hard I meerly sanded it 

 flush, leaving a neat air-tight seal. Obviously you need to apply 

 electrical tape to mask/protect the areas you dont want Sika on.



 hope this helps- feel free to contact me if you need any explanations



 Trevor  RV-7 Tip up + RV-7 slider with only Sika - sorry, one hole on 

 the slider for the locking handle!



 ---

- The Matronics RV7-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List

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