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relay wiring question

 
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gfr56(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 5:11 am    Post subject: relay wiring question Reply with quote

I am looking for the proper way to wire my battery and starter contactor.

I have a Spruce bought battery contactor, which is a White-Rodgers Type 70 DC power contactor. I expected to see two large posts and two small posts on the unit but it has only one small post. The manufactures web site refers to this as a "Terminal Type 3B – Coil Common to Load" . I want to confirm how to properly wire this to my DPDT master switch, the manufacturers diagram shows a pig tail to the small post from large post that is connected to battery positive. I assume I wire from that large post to the master switch and the back to small post on the contactor. There is no connection from the master switch to ground in this case?

Part 2
I have B&C starter relay, it also has only one small post.
I assume that it is grounded through it's own case and I should bring positive line through the starter switch and back to the small post and then pig tail a ground wire from the case mounting bolt to the firewall ground?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Jerry
[quote][b]


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rlborger(at)mac.com
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 6:03 am    Post subject: relay wiring question Reply with quote

Jerry,

The 12 volt cable from the battery to the battery contactor also provides the power to the contactor. You run a wire from the single small terminal to your master switch and another wire from the master switch to ground. The master switch then provides ground to complete the circuit and activate the contactor.

The starter relay requires that 12 volts be supplied to the small terminal for the relay to activate. Yes, ground is through the case. If your aircraft is composite or tube and fabric construction then you should run a ground wire from the case mount bolt to the firewall ground block. If your aircraft is aluminum ground should be available directly from the airframe.

I hope this helps,
Bob Borger
Europa XS, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S prop
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL

On Thursday, August 07, 2008, at 08:27AM, "Jerry Ricciotti" <gfr56(at)comcast.net> wrote:
Quote:
I am looking for the proper way to wire my battery and starter contactor.

I have a Spruce bought battery contactor, which is a White-Rodgers Type 70 DC power contactor. I expected to see two large posts and two small posts on the unit but it has only one small post. The manufactures web site refers to this as a "Terminal Type 3B - Coil Common to Load" . I want to confirm how to properly wire this to my DPDT master switch, the manufacturers diagram shows a pig tail to the small post from large post that is connected to battery positive. I assume I wire from that large post to the master switch and the back to small post on the contactor. There is no connection from the master switch to ground in this case?

Part 2
I have B&C starter relay, it also has only one small post.
I assume that it is grounded through it's own case and I should bring positive line through the starter switch and back to the small post and then pig tail a ground wire from the case mounting bolt to the firewall ground?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Jerry


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gfr56(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 1:30 pm    Post subject: relay wiring question Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply

A comment and an additional question.
I noticed the battery contactor only works with the large post opposite the
small post connected to positive and does not work with the other large post
connected to positive (i.e.. flip flopping the positive)
This does not seem to be the case for the starter contactor, it seems to
work with either post connected to positive.

Is there a reason for this?
---


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bob(at)bob-white.com
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 5:35 pm    Post subject: relay wiring question Reply with quote

Hi Jerry,

The reason is on the starter relay, the coil is activated by a positive
voltage to the small terminal and the case is grounded. It has nothing
to do with the large terminals. On the contactor, one side of the
coil is connected to one of the large terminals (BAT). The other side
is connected to ground through the master switch. If you connect the
large terminals backwards, then one side of the coil is NOT connected
to the battery and you can't activate the coil.

You have to get 12V across the coil to activate the contacts on both
devices. Look at the attached drawing and it should be easy to see why
you can't switch the large terminals on the contactor.

Bob W.


On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 17:27:51 -0400
"Jerry Ricciotti" <gfr56(at)comcast.net> wrote:

[quote]

Thanks for the reply

A comment and an additional question.
I noticed the battery contactor only works with the large post opposite the
small post connected to positive and does not work with the other large post
connected to positive (i.e.. flip flopping the positive)
This does not seem to be the case for the starter contactor, it seems to
work with either post connected to positive.

Is there a reason for this?


---


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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 10:11 am    Post subject: relay wiring question Reply with quote

At 05:27 PM 8/7/2008 -0400, you wrote:


Thanks for the reply

A comment and an additional question.
I noticed the battery contactor only works with the large post opposite the
small post connected to positive and does not work with the other large
post connected to positive (i.e.. flip flopping the positive)
This does not seem to be the case for the starter contactor, it seems to
work with either post connected to positive.

Is there a reason for this?

Nothing special . . . it's the factory's way of accommodating a variety
of design goals for incorporating the device into an electrical system.

I'll refer you to the 3rd and 4th pages of the .pdf catalog for
the 70 series contactors from Stancor:

http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Contactors/Stancor-WhiteRogers/Stancor_70-Series.pdf

Note that the 4-terminal device features no internal
coil connections. This is the style contactor I used to
offer (B&C still does) as "universal" to the task of battery
contactor, cross-feed contactor, hydraulic pump contactor,
alternator b-lead contactor, etc. In all these instances,
the little terminals and fat terminals are interchangeable.

In cases where you want to purchase a bunch of contactors
for use as a battery contactor only, then they'll be pleased
to sell you a version wherein one coil connection is tied to
a fat terminal. Obviously, one of the fat terminals needs to
be designated "BATTERY" and if you look at the contactor
shell, this terminal will be labeled "BAT" or "BATTERY".

This leaves you but one wire to hook up to the battery
master that pulls the free end of the coil to ground to
energize the contactor.

This feature can be used in a variety of applications
where "pull to ground" control is desired. Just connect
the BAT terminal to power source and the other terminal to
supply the load.

If you want to use the contactor in a "pull to bus"
situation, you can also purchase a version where one
end of the coil is internally connected to contactor
case. Now, the fat terminals are still interchangeable
but attention must be paid to the small terminal(s)
where one will be internally connected to case. This
wiring convention is quite common in intermittent
duty, starter contactors.

----------------------
On Thursday, August 07, 2008, at 08:27AM, "Jerry Ricciotti"
<gfr56(at)comcast.net> wrote:

I am looking for the proper way to wire my battery and starter contactor.

I have a Spruce bought battery contactor, which is a White-Rodgers Type 70
DC power contactor. I expected to see two large posts and two small posts
on the unit but it has only one small post. The manufactures web site
refers to this as a "Terminal Type 3B - Coil Common to Load" .

The term "3B" comes from the schematic description of
functionality from the 4th page of the above catalog
excerpt. In this case, your coil suppression device would
go between the small terminal and the one marked "BAT" as
opposed to the externally jumpered wiring depicted
in:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Contactors/s701-1.jpg
I want to confirm how to properly wire this to my DPDT master switch, the
manufacturers diagram shows a pig tail to the small post from large post
that is connected to battery positive. I assume I wire from that large post
to the master switch and the back to small post on the contactor.

No, you wire the battery to the BAT terminal of the contactor
and take a single wire from the small terminal through your battery
master switch to ship's ground. This is illustrated in all of the
z-figures.

There is no connection from the master switch to ground in this case?

Yes there IS a master switch ground connection . . .
as shown in the z-figures.
Part 2

I have B&C starter relay, it also has only one small post.

I assume that it is grounded through it's own case and I should bring
positive line through the starter switch and back to the small post and
then pig tail a ground wire from the case mounting bolt to the firewall ground?

Yes, except if you have a metal firewall, there's no need
for an extra ground between the mounting flange and
the firewall ground.

Bob . . .

----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 10:42 am    Post subject: relay wiring question Reply with quote

I discovered a diagram I'd published a few years ago at:

http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/Contactors_PU_and_PD.pdf

In this drawing, you see the control paths for the
classic "pull down" to ground control of battery contactor
(shown in red) and the "pull up" to bus control typical
of starter contactors (shown in green). I've also published
a one-pager on the three common contactor wiring conventions
at:

http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/Contactor_Wiring_Conventions.pdf

Bob . . .


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