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Thermocouple question...

 
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steve(at)tomasara.com
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 12:42 pm    Post subject: Thermocouple question... Reply with quote

Bob and group,

First I would like confirmation that I'm correctly interpreting my
inherited EGT/CHT installation. What I found on my pusher project was
that the EGT and CHT thermocouple wire ended on the firewall at a
terminal strip (and possibly even on the way to the terminal strip in
the CHT case). The rest of the run to the instrument (an EC-1) is in
copper and included another terminal strip junction and a lap-solder
junction at the instrument. The wires coming out of the instrument
appears to be tinned copper. Instrument manual clearly says the
extension wiring must be type "K" thermocouple wire but the wire exiting
the instrument (that used to be connectorized) appears to be tinned
copper. My interpretation is that they were using on the connections
to the instrument wires as the cold junction and assumed the temperature
at these junctions were the same as that in the instrument (which seems
like a good enough assumption). From this I would believe that the
readings used by the previous owner would be in error (presumably low)
by the difference in temperature between the back of the panel and under
the cowl. Is this right?

My intended fix is to use thermocouple extension wire continuously from
the thermocouple sensor wire up to behind the panel. And since I am
converting from one cylinder coverage to all four plus a spare, I'll be
adding a five position, double pole rotary switch to each set (EGT and
CHT). To both get the extra couples to cancel and to be able to fit
acceptable sized rotary switches, my plan is to run all the thermocouple
wires to a set of terminal blocks (or an equivalent) at convenient place
behind the panel. There the signals switch to smaller gauge copper
(four six-wire cables) up to the rotary switches (wire length less than
3', signal length less than 6'). Back at the terminal strip the
post-switch EGT pair and CHT pair go back to type "K" extension wire and
run back up to the instrument for connection (via connectors in place
of lap-joints) for correctly located "cold" junctions. Did I get this
right? Is there a significant negative to the "less than six feet" of
signal path on copper behind the panel?

Thanks in advance,
Steve Stearns
Boulder/Longmont, Colorado
CSA,EAA,IAC,AOPA,PE,ARRL,BARC (but ignorant none-the-less)
Restoring (since 1/07): N45FC O235 Longeze Cothern/Friling CF1 (~1000 Hrs)
Flying (since 9/86): N43732 A65 Taylorcraft BC12D


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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:37 pm    Post subject: Thermocouple question... Reply with quote

At 02:40 PM 8/31/2008 -0600, you wrote:
Quote:


Bob and group,

First I would like confirmation that I'm correctly interpreting my
inherited EGT/CHT installation. What I found on my pusher project was
that the EGT and CHT thermocouple wire ended on the firewall at a terminal
strip (and possibly even on the way to the terminal strip in the CHT
case). The rest of the run to the instrument (an EC-1) is in copper and
included another terminal strip junction and a lap-solder junction at the
instrument. The wires coming out of the instrument appears to be tinned
copper. Instrument manual clearly says the extension wiring must be type
"K" thermocouple wire but the wire exiting the instrument (that used to be
connectorized) appears to be tinned copper. My interpretation is
that they were using on the connections to the instrument wires as the
cold junction and assumed the temperature at these junctions were the same
as that in the instrument (which seems like a good enough
assumption). From this I would believe that the readings used by the
previous owner would be in error (presumably low) by the difference in
temperature between the back of the panel and under the cowl. Is this right?

Yes . . .
Quote:
My intended fix is to use thermocouple extension wire continuously from
the thermocouple sensor wire up to behind the panel. And since I am
converting from one cylinder coverage to all four plus a spare, I'll be
adding a five position, double pole rotary switch to each set (EGT and
CHT). To both get the extra couples to cancel and to be able to fit
acceptable sized rotary switches, my plan is to run all the thermocouple
wires to a set of terminal blocks (or an equivalent) at convenient place
behind the panel. There the signals switch to smaller gauge copper (four
six-wire cables) up to the rotary switches (wire length less than 3',
signal length less than 6'). Back at the terminal strip the post-switch
EGT pair and CHT pair go back to type "K" extension wire and run back up
to the instrument for connection (via connectors in place of lap-joints)
for correctly located "cold" junctions. Did I get this right? Is there a
significant negative to the "less than six feet" of signal path on copper
behind the panel?

How many total measurement points are you installing? "four,
6-wire cables" brings an image of 24 conductors for 12
thermocouples total. One of my favorite "tiny" switches
for thermocouples is a Grayhill GH5602 . . .

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=GH5602-ND

which only handles 6 thermocouples. If you need a full 12
positions, then consider the Grayhill GH7103

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=GH7103-ND

which is also quite compact.

Consider using T/C wire all the way from the splices
at the engine couples, through the switch and to the instrument.
You can use "connectors" in the form of d-subs (use
machined pins and 4-quad crimp tools to install) and/or
2-screw barrier strips to join K-wire to K-wire but avoid
k-wire to copper joints until you are at the rear of the
instrument case. Suggest TT-K-24S wire at:

http://www.omega.com/pptst/XC_K_TC_WIRE.html

You can get this wire in short amounts for just over
a dollar a foot. See quote form at the bottom of
the page cited above.

I think I'd bring copper wires at the instrument out to
a female wire-to-wire connector (Omega SMPW-K-MF) shown on

http://www.omega.com/pptst/SMPW_SMP_HMP_HMPW.html

You could bond the connector off the instrument's pigtail
to the back of the instrument case with E6000. Depending
on room inside the instrument, you might be able to
even modify the instrument to accept a midge panel jack
as shown in:

http://www.omega.com/pptst/MPJ.html

The 'secret' to accurate thermocouples is do-unto-Chromel-
as-you-do-unto-Alumel all the way from the temp-sense
junction to the instrument . . . even inside the instrument
if possible but at the back of the case would probably
suffice.

Bob . . .


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steve(at)tomasara.com
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:39 am    Post subject: Thermocouple question... Reply with quote

Bob,

Thanks for the help. I'm having a lot of fun on my re-wiring project
but it is really time-consuming... I really appreciate having your
book, you and the group available to sanity check my details...
Quote:
**How many total measurement points are you installing? "four,
6-wire cables" brings an image of 24 conductors for 12
thermocouples total.**
Each of the 6-wire cables is basically used as a copper intermediary for

one of the switch poles (four total for the combinations of EGT/CHT and
Yellow/Red). Each cable has 5 goes-to-the-switch signals (from one side
of 5 thermocouples) and a sixth wire that goes from that cables
switch-pole common to a section of TC wire required to move the cold
junction back up to the instrument. This gives 10 thermocouples total
(which I'll think about extending to six since the grayhill switch will
let me).
Quote:
**One of my favorite "tiny" switches
for thermocouples is a Grayhill GH5602 . . .

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=GH5602-ND

which only handles 6 thermocouples. **
Those grayhill switches look exactly like what I was getting ready to go

look for.

Quote:
**Consider using T/C wire all the way from the splices
at the engine couples, through the switch and to the instrument... but avoid
k-wire to copper joints until you are at the rear of the
instrument case. **
How do I bond TC wire directly to the switch without having a copper

intermediary? That seems like a better approach but I don't have any
good ideas on how to do it (I figured silver-soldering to the switch
wasn't likely to work...). Since all my ideas required a copper
intermediary, I figured I might as well take advantage of it and remote
the TC to copper junctions (other than the required cold-junctions
behind the instrument) a couple feet away from the crowded spot on the
panel where the switches and instrument reside. <new idea follows...>
If I do end up stuck with a copper intermediary, it seems like the run
from the switch to the instrument doesn't have to go back to the
pre-switch TC-to-copper junctions and therefore could be just a couple
of inches long (the switches will be located at the instrument). Since
each would still require a switch-to-copper junction at the switch, a
copper to TC junction, and a TC junction back to copper (at the
instrument for a cold junction) all within a few inches it seems a
kludgy way to do it but it does save running a pair of TC wires a couple
of feet in a wire-crowded area.

(Annoying theoretical thought follows...) Assuming the "new idea" still
balances all the thermocouples correctly (which I *think* it does), and
since the section of TC wire could be arbitrarily short (implying
arbitrarily iso-thermal) it's seems reasonable to argue that IF you knew
that the copper wire from the switch and the copper wire to the
instrument were the same alloys (which you don't) that the couples at
each end of the arbitrarily short TC wire would cancel and, therefore,
you could eliminate them without affect. The implication being that the
resulting performance would be equivalent to that with the cold couples
at the back of the instrument when, in fact, they aren't there. Clearly
I'm missing something here and don't have it all figured out yet...
Quote:
**Suggest TT-K-24S wire at:

http://www.omega.com/pptst/XC_K_TC_WIRE.html

**
I've got some of this wire in 20 Gauge for making thermocouples for

not-too-hot areas. For the 10' runs up to the panel, I've got some
EXPP-K-20S stranded "extension" wire (but need more...). I picked the
20 Gauge just to follow the "no airframe wire smaller than 22 Gage"
rule-of-thumb and the stranded variety for improved motion-related
durability. (Sounds like I might have over-thought the problem.) If
there is a good way to bond TC wire to the switch then I'll ditch the
copper intermediary and switch to the 24 Gauge extension wire for the
couple of feet required to go up to the switches.

I'm assuming it's not worth "home-brewing" from scratch either EGT
probes or plug-washer CHT probes so I haven't purchased any high-temp TC
wire. But can you replace the wire in plug-washer CHT probes and, if
so, do you have a part number for an appropriate wire to buy for that
purpose?

Seemingly simple principles sure lead to a lot of required details to
get it right. Sort of a Mandelbrot or "emergent behavior" sort of
thing. <grin>

Thanks in advance,

Steve Stearns
Boulder/Longmont, Colorado
CSA,EAA,IAC,AOPA,PE,ARRL,BARC (but ignorant none-the-less)
Restoring (since 1/07): N45FC O235 Longeze Cothern/Friling CF1 (~1000 Hrs)
Flying (since 9/86): N43732 A65 Taylorcraft BC12D


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