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rv(at)thelefflers.com
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 Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:49 pm Post subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins |
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I’m in the process of finishing riveting the top wings skins, but I’ve run into a snag that I need assistance to overcome.
The area that I’m having difficulties are the rivets that go through the top wing skin and the rear spar, at the inboard end of the wing where the W-1007C doubler is located. This row of rivets seems impossible to reach. I can take a photo if that would assist anyone.
The problem is that because of the W-1007C doubler, you can’t get into the rivet with a back rivet set or any of the bucking bars that I have. I do have a couple bucking bars that are angled to get them into tight places, but they are still too thick in this instance..
Since there have been many going before me and I can’t seem to find any references to others having difficulties, I must be overlooking something obvious.
I tried using a chisel, but the results weren’t good. I could get the chisel into the back, but it push the rivet out and I wasn’t able to get the head of the rivet flat. I guess the other choice is to drill out the rivets on the W1007C doubler, rivet the skin, the re-rivet the doubler. But that sure would be a pain, with the ribs so close together.
I’m open to any suggestions at this point.
Thanks!
Bob
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pascal(at)rv10builder.net
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| Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 5:58 pm Post subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins |
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Bob;
I'm thinking your referencing 16-3 step 3. I looked at my end result (which tells me if I had a problem or not at this point) I see everything except the outermost rivet are riveted, which leads me to know that I used a squeezer at this point. I think I filed down my 3'' so it would fit than squeezed.
Send me a picture if I have the wrong spot and we'll get this worked out.
Pascal
From: Bob Leffler (rv(at)thelefflers.com)
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 5:48 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com) ; OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com (OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com)
Subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
I’m in the process of finishing riveting the top wings skins, but I’ve run into a snag that I need assistance to overcome.
The area that I’m having difficulties are the rivets that go through the top wing skin and the rear spar, at the inboard end of the wing where the W-1007C doubler is located. This row of rivets seems impossible to reach. I can take a photo if that would assist anyone.
The problem is that because of the W-1007C doubler, you can’t get into the rivet with a back rivet set or any of the bucking bars that I have. I do have a couple bucking bars that are angled to get them into tight places, but they are still too thick in this instance..
Since there have been many going before me and I can’t seem to find any references to others having difficulties, I must be overlooking something obvious.
I tried using a chisel, but the results weren’t good. I could get the chisel into the back, but it push the rivet out and I wasn’t able to get the head of the rivet flat. I guess the other choice is to drill out the rivets on the W1007C doubler, rivet the skin, the re-rivet the doubler. But that sure would be a pain, with the ribs so close together.
I’m open to any suggestions at this point.
Thanks!
Bob
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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egohr1
Joined: 17 Jan 2006
Posts: 38
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:57 am Post subject: Re: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins |
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After a little bit of head scratching, it came back to me. I used the attached bucking bar on those rivets.
Eric Gohr
All the things left after the finishing kit
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eric gohr
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rv10(at)sinkrate.com
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:16 am Post subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins |
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Bob,
I remember that lots of cussing helped! I used a small 1” by 1.5” steel bucking bar that I have (which hurts like hell to use btw). If you haven’t already bought a tungsten bar I’d recommend shelling out for one. They are often small enough to get into tight places such as this.
-Ben Westfall
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 5:49 PM
Subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
I’m in the process of finishing riveting the top wings skins, but I’ve run into a snag that I need assistance to overcome.
The area that I’m having difficulties are the rivets that go through the top wing skin and the rear spar, at the inboard end of the wing where the W-1007C doubler is located. This row of rivets seems impossible to reach. I can take a photo if that would assist anyone.
The problem is that because of the W-1007C doubler, you can’t get into the rivet with a back rivet set or any of the bucking bars that I have. I do have a couple bucking bars that are angled to get them into tight places, but they are still too thick in this instance..
Since there have been many going before me and I can’t seem to find any references to others having difficulties, I must be overlooking something obvious.
I tried using a chisel, but the results weren’t good. I could get the chisel into the back, but it push the rivet out and I wasn’t able to get the head of the rivet flat. I guess the other choice is to drill out the rivets on the W1007C doubler, rivet the skin, the re-rivet the doubler. But that sure would be a pain, with the ribs so close together.
I’m open to any suggestions at this point.
Thanks!
Bob
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Kearney(at)shaw.ca
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:44 am Post subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins |
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Hi
6nbsp;
Perhaps the limited use of Cherry Max rivets in really tight spots would be a worthwile approach E If you are messing up rivets in difficult to reach spots C 6nbsp;tryng something different 6nbsp;may be in order E
6nbsp;
By the way C I agree with Ben that a tungsten bar a great idea E IMHO C it 6nbsp;is the single best rivetting tool you can get E 6nbsp;You 7d have to pry mine from my cold dead hands E E E E
6nbsp;
Cheers
6nbsp;
Les Kearney
340643
6nbsp; 6nbsp;
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Albert Gardner
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:35 am Post subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins |
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Every tool was designed to someone else's specifications-maybe you can
redesign one to meet your specific requirements. My grinder has altered the
design of several of my bucking bars and the pop rivet tool among others.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
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wcurtis(at)nerv10.com
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 12:28 pm Post subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins |
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With respects to the "purest" out there, I've found that; rather than trying to put a solid rivet in any hard to reach location, instead use a MK-319 BS. You will mess up less skin going this route.
A while back I was about to order some MK-319BS from Van's. In addition to the $4 handling charge, MK-319 BS from Van's are $0.22 each. I was looking for some other items at Aircraft Spruce and found that they carry the MK-319 BS equivalent Cherry rivets for $0.15 each or 100 count for $13.50. A 100 count order shipped priority mail is less than #20.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/cherryqrivet.php
No.: CCC-32
USM Equivalent: "MK319BS
Size: 3/32
Drill: 41
Grip: .125
There are some minor visual differences between the Van's MK-319 BS and the Cherry CCC-32. The Van's MK-319 BS requires a hole larger than a #40 for placement where as the CCC-32 does not. The stem on the CCC-32 is stainless whereas the MK-319 BS is normal steel.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
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rv(at)thelefflers.com
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 2:36 pm Post subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins |
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Thanks to all that have replied.
I attempted Pascal's suggestion with a squeezer, but that didn't work well.
I'll admit it could be my skill level causing some of the issue.
For those that recommend either the short or long footed bucking bars from
Cleaveland, I have those, but they are too thick.
Since you can't ever have too many tools, I ordered an anvil style bucking
bar from Cleaveland that appears to have a thinner foot (BB83)
(http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BB83). If that is
still too thick, I'll start grinding.
As far as using MK-319 BS, I prefer not to use them in this particular
location. This is the top of the wing, so I'm going to perform a little
more due diligence before I give up. If this was the bottom skin, I
probably wouldn't think twice. Plus I now know I am going to have the same
issue when it comes to the bottom skin.
Bob
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rv10(at)sinkrate.com
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:38 pm Post subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins |
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Bob,
It gets worse on the bottom skins because you have the flap attach brackets
to work around. I used a long (12" or more) back rivet set polished mirror
smooth on the manufactured head of the rivet and the tungsten bar on the
shop head side.
-Ben
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