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CHT probe placement
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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 4:04 pm    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

When I recently rebuilt my Jabiru 2200 engine, I decided it was time
to make the CHT probe move to a better location, and avoid the
dreaded spark plug gasket removal and replacement problem. I didn't
like the idea of putting the probe under a head bolt as some have
done, fearing the idea of putting 24 lbs of torque on a copper
terminal, so I followed another poster's idea and drilled and tapped
a hole in the head between, and slightly below, the spark plug
locations. Now I find that the temperature readings are quite a bit
above the reported 10 degrees or so difference (from the spark plug
locations) that I have read about for the head bolt locations. I have
looked into this and have decided that the spark plug probes (mine
anyway) position the thermocouple wire attachment point...the point
where the actual reading is made, the "business end" if you will,
(and it is NOT the area that actually touches the head)...one-half
inch above the head surface, and well into the airflow that goes past
this area. This spark plug thermocouple is further insulated by
having it *above* the spark plug gasket, making it even further from
the cylinder head, albeit by a very small amount. I believe this 1/2"
of separation from the head is enough to place the "business end" of
the t'couple in the relatively cool air passing by. I used to see
CHT's of an average of about 275° F, while I now see my CHT's read
about 350-360° F, and up to about 385° F in climb, at 1500' MSL, (at)
80° F ambient. Straight and level flight after a 5 minute settling
down period after climbout will see the 350's I mentioned. My
thermocouple attachment point...the business end...is now closer to
the head, and tucked between the head and a fin instead of sticking
up into the airflow, so I can accept the higher readings, especially
when the engine is running so strong now and climbing better than I
recall it doing before the engine breakdown. I might add that each
flight sees lower CHT's as the engine breaks in.
Any comments?

Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs, and counting...all systems are go.


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Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 3:39 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Lynn, can you post a picture of where you placed the probe. Tex
---


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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 5:06 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Here ya go, Tex. I had to grind a bit off the fins just above the
area, then level out the little hump, and it was clear sailing to
drill it and tap it with an 8-32 tap. I just cut the old 12mm
terminal off the t'couple lead, bared the leads a bit, shrink tubed
them right up to the bare area and inserted them into a new #8 stud
size, eye terminal. Where the leads contact each other is where the
temp reading actually takes place, so be sure to shove the bare leads
right up to the terminal before crimping. At least that's how this
anal reporter did/does it. : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs, and counting...all systems are go.

On Sep 28, 2008, at 7:38 AM, Tex Mantell wrote:

Quote:

<wb2ssj(at)frontiernet.net>

Lynn, can you post a picture of where you placed the probe. Tex


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:25 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Thanks , great pictures..
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:31 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Just what is a "#8 stud size, eye terminal." A picture of this would be a
help to me. I have the 3300 and my engine has the small holes. I have not
measured them precisely, but as I remember a 1/8" drill will fit inside. I
also have the Grand Rapids EIS. I have been following your saga with great
interest. Have you checked with GR to see if they might now offer a sensor
that might fit or be more adaptable to the hole?

As you have been experimenting with a small daylight readable screen HP
tablet computer which I have interfaced to the GR EIS. I have programmed
Excel spreadsheet to graphically display the output from the EIS. I will
post pictures of all of this soon. I have also built my own cowling for my
Kitfox 5 and then more recently greatly modified the lower cowl to increase
the exit area and greatly modify the exit lip to hopefully increase the
negative air pressure to further aid cooling. I did this without even
checking the first version after all of the comments regarding cooling. I
will also send pictures of this soon. My engine has yet to run, but in the
next two months I hope to have all together.

Jim Crowder

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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 1:36 pm    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

If you go to the hardware store or auto parts store, and look for the
electrical terminals, you will see that there are red, blue and
yellow-colored terminals for wiring. The red ones are for wire sizes
22 to 18, the blue are for 16-14, I believe, and the yellows are for
wire sizes 12 to 10 as I recall. The colors are the colors of the
insulating sleeves that are fitted to the wire entry hole. That seems
to be industry-wide color coding. The other sizing is the size of the
eye, so a #8 stud size will fit over a #8 stud, or a #8 screw will go
through the hole. When I said a "#8 stud size" that means a #8 screw
will bolt the terminal to the head in this case. If you had a large
wire, like a #10 wire, you would look for a #8 (in this case) for the
hole size, but a #10 wire size. There are blade terminals, open eye
terminals, and spade terminals, and possibly others, and this refers
to the shape of the terminal where it makes a mechanical attachment
to whatever you are fastening the wire to.

In the case of your 1/8" hole in your head, that is close to the size
needed to tap it to 8-32. The 8-32 tap calls for a #29 drill for the
tap to work properly. A #29 drill measures .136", so you would want
this size hole in your head to properly tap the hole with an 8-32
tap. If your hole is only 1/8" or .125", you will need to drill to .
136" or the tap will probably break from trying to force it to go
into a hole that is too small. I have not checked with GR, preferring
to just drill to the size needed for the 8-32 tap. Remember, I had no
holes in my head, and needed to drill my own holes. I understand that
some heads are already drilled, and it was Peter Disher's post
regarding the already-drilled heads that led me to try this
thermocouple placement on my heads.

Your interfacing sounds like a great way to record data, Jim...wish I
was more computer oriented, but a pencil and paper work for me,
although I'm sure I miss a LOT of data.

Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs, and counting...all systems are go.
On Sep 28, 2008, at 1:28 PM, Jim Crowder wrote:

[quote]
<jcrowder(at)lpbroadband.net>

Just what is a "#8 stud size, eye terminal." A picture of this
would be a
help to me. I have the 3300 and my engine has the small holes. I
have not
measured them precisely, but as I remember a 1/8" drill will fit
inside. I
also have the Grand Rapids EIS. I have been following your saga
with great
interest. Have you checked with GR to see if they might now offer
a sensor
that might fit or be more adaptable to the hole?

As you have been experimenting with a small daylight readable
screen HP
tablet computer which I have interfaced to the GR EIS. I have
programmed
Excel spreadsheet to graphically display the output from the EIS.
I will
post pictures of all of this soon. I have also built my own
cowling for my
Kitfox 5 and then more recently greatly modified the lower cowl to
increase
the exit area and greatly modify the exit lip to hopefully increase
the
negative air pressure to further aid cooling. I did this without even
checking the first version after all of the comments regarding
cooling. I
will also send pictures of this soon. My engine has yet to run,
but in the
next two months I hope to have all together.

Jim Crowder

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:23 pm    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Lynn,
If others want, I will take this thread off line.

I already understood most of what you have related. Just what you were
referring to as the stud and the eye was not clear to me. I am also not
clear on just what and how much remains outside of the hole. I was thinking
you were somehow inserting the crimped portion containing the junction into
the hole. I am now thinking you leave the crimped junction outside of the
hole while threading the screw through the eye or ring of a terminal and
into the hole. Will this not leave the actual sensor junction just above
the head and then therefore depending on the heat transfer from the eye and
terminal to the junction? Does this not leave the actual terminal end and
the enclosed junction to remain in the air just above the head? This seems
to be different than my son's bayonet sensor which as I remember inserts
into a hole in his IO360 on his RV8 which is also about to fly. I have just
spent most of the last two days bucking rivets with him as he finish closing
his wings. We are about to take his plane out to my hangar for a coming
first flight.

I am concerned that if I make use of the holes as you are when making my
first flights, I will not know if my CHT's readings are too high or low.
Since you are further along in this, maybe you will have established the
correct temperature thresholds.

The computer interface has taken me a long time to get working and while it
is nearly there and generally working on my bench, it is not yet complete.
It is another whole discussion which I will share either when I am just a
bit more finished, or as the group has interest. In my post to which you
have replied, I meant to say "as you have been experimenting, I have been
experimenting." You did seem to get my meaning, though.

Jim Crowder
Kitfox 5
3300 Jabiru Engine

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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:36 pm    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Yes, I use the hole that I drilled for the screw, and the crimped
portion lays parallel to the head and very close to the surface..as
close as a few thousandths from it....as close as the screw can clamp
it to the surface. You could also do as you say, or suggest, cut off
the eye and insert the crimped portion right into the hole if you
could come up with a suitable way to retain it there. That may be how
Peter Disher did his..see the archives from Aug 25, 2008 from this
List...he has pictures there. I just forwarded this post to you. It
*does* sound like he inserted the bare wires perhaps, right into the
hole, then ran the screw into the hole. I suppose you could tap the
hole, then maybe rout a small groove on one side of the hole in which
to insert the bare wires of the t'couple. In any case, the closer to
the head, or even right into it, the more accurate the reading. What
we are dealing with here however is "uncharted waters", in that
because no one else has done this, or reported their findings, we
don't know just what the readings should be. That's where the pucker
factor for my first flight came from.
I was quick to get the plane off the ground, thinking that I'd better
get it up there and get cooler air flowing over the engine. I was
thinking that my seemingly elevated temps were the result of the
newly honed cylinders and new piston rings causing high friction, but
it was the more accurate readings of the t'couple probe placement
that revealed the higher temps. So what IS the proper temp, now that
we have the more accurate readings....beats me!! Maybe Jabiru knows.
For me, I just tried to keep it below their posted max of 392° F, but
it did go over that once, on the initial startup, running it on the
ground. That's why I quickly got it into the air, and that act almost
bit me in the butt. The tight engine wasn't climbing very well, so I
kept it above tree level, climbing slightly and getting it turned
around and landed. When I realized that the engine didn't feel any
hotter than before, I started to realize that the feel of the engine
was the same as before, but the readings were higher because the
probe was no longer 1/2" away from the head, up into the airstream,
being cooled and giving lower but inaccurate readings of the actual
temp of the head. This is all fine and good if we all do it just the
way Jabiru does it, with the spark plug probes. So I unpuckered, and
began to accept that I would now be seeing 350-380° F as the
norm....my norm, instead of the 275° of before. I guess this is where
the "experimenting" part comes in. : )

I flew to an airport about 40 miles away today, and my head temps
were running about 358 for the most part, and I've accepted that as
my new norm. It comforts me to know that I haven't changed anything
relating to airflow, so I'm accepting the higher readings as being
"normal."

I also wish that Jabiru would give us a socket for a bayonet sensor,
or at least report what such a probe placement would reveal in the
way of temps.

Yes, I kind of read between the lines on your experimenting, and
please do keep *us all* posted on your progress....I'm sure that this
is the kind of thing that this List is meant to do...inform and share
all aspects of Jabiru engine-related experimentation. At least that's
the way I read it.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs, and counting...all systems are go, or nearly so...
On Sep 28, 2008, at 6:22 PM, Jim Crowder wrote:

[quote]
<jcrowder(at)lpbroadband.net>

Lynn,
If others want, I will take this thread off line.

I already understood most of what you have related. Just what you were
referring to as the stud and the eye was not clear to me. I am
also not
clear on just what and how much remains outside of the hole. I was
thinking
you were somehow inserting the crimped portion containing the
junction into
the hole. I am now thinking you leave the crimped junction
outside of the
hole while threading the screw through the eye or ring of a
terminal and
into the hole. Will this not leave the actual sensor junction just
above
the head and then therefore depending on the heat transfer from the
eye and
terminal to the junction? Does this not leave the actual terminal
end and
the enclosed junction to remain in the air just above the head?
This seems
to be different than my son's bayonet sensor which as I remember
inserts
into a hole in his IO360 on his RV8 which is also about to fly. I
have just
spent most of the last two days bucking rivets with him as he
finish closing
his wings. We are about to take his plane out to my hangar for a
coming
first flight.

I am concerned that if I make use of the holes as you are when
making my
first flights, I will not know if my CHT's readings are too high or
low.
Since you are further along in this, maybe you will have
established the
correct temperature thresholds.

The computer interface has taken me a long time to get working and
while it
is nearly there and generally working on my bench, it is not yet
complete.
It is another whole discussion which I will share either when I am
just a
bit more finished, or as the group has interest. In my post to
which you
have replied, I meant to say "as you have been experimenting, I
have been
experimenting." You did seem to get my meaning, though.

Jim Crowder
Kitfox 5
3300 Jabiru Engine

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:45 pm    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Temporarily install a thermocouple under the plug and in your new hole. That
will allow you to build a conversion chart.

-- Craig


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:22 pm    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Lynn,
I now understand. Unless I am confident of where I am going with this, I am
reluctant to drill into my head as Peter did. Has Peter reported the
temperatures he is getting, or is he not flying yet? I should think your
temperatures would be similar to what others get with the rings under the
head bolts if they allow the sensor to lie flat upon the head. There is a
paste that could also be placed under the terminal that enhances heat
conduction. It is used with heat sinks, etc. I do not know the operating
temperature of it. I just looked at my temperature probes and I could cut
the end portion of the rings so as to remove a horseshoe shaped portion of
the ring and leave a spade like flat remainder that I could easily drill for
a #8 screw. That way I believe I would not need to remove the old terminal
and still get the same result. Did you consider that or were your sensors
different?

I have copied my Excel display screen to a Word document and I will attempt
to post by attaching hereto. On the display you will see the graph with
inserted values except for CHT which were actual values from my GR
instrument with the sensors attached and I had heated them with a heat gun
while held in a cluster by hand. When the snapshot was taken they had
cooled down to below normal operating temperature. They are all displayed
in red as I had set the program to display red when above or below the safe
operational range. If above safe temperature they would also display red.
Yellow is for near high or low and green is for the optimum range. It is
really fun to watch them change colors and move up and down as I apply heat
or remove it. These ranges are set by typing the various numbers into the
spreadsheet at setup. I do not have rate of cooling programmed yet. My
Tablet Computer is very flat and has only a 12" diag. display. In use I
will mount it on my instrument panel and the display I have attached will
take up one half of the display with Vista GPS driven moving chart taking up
the other half. I have tried this in my car and boat and it works nicely.
Note the fuel flow is red as such a flow would indicate a problem. The same
for the cooling rate which is not now truly functional yet. This should
work on any laptop with my software and interface. I have spent way too
much time on this.

I will be interested to see if the attached file goes through. If not I
will send it directly to you.

Jim Crowder
Kitfox 5
Jabiru 3300 engine

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:41 pm    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

For myself, I thought of that, but it would add another issue to a first
flight and my displays would be confusing with incorrect labeling. It might
be a thing to do later. Anyway, I am hoping someone else will have done
that for me. ;>)
Jim Crowder

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 11:41 pm    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Jim, My temperatures are now 1-296F. 2-328, 3-378, 4-348, 5-360, 6-332F
These temps are taxing only, I haven't flowen as yet, still waiting
inspection.
I still have my probes as they are in my post of the 25 aug photos attached.
I had an earlier problem with No 5 at 420F and found that the rubber pipe
joiner on the intake pipe was loose and leaking air.
I do think that the temps might record a little higher where I put them.
I did also remove the "V" plates from on top of cylinder and put them
underneath.

Pete Disher
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Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 346
Location: Corvallis, MT

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 3:18 am    Post subject: Re: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Jim

From your post I can see that you are well along in developing your own EFIS data acquisition software. Even so, you may want to take a look at Waiter's program:

http://www.iflyez.com/EFISRecorder.shtml

It has been available for several years and is frequently updated. Best of all, it s free.

I am planning to use it to record all EFIS and EIS data when I get to the flight test stage.

Terry


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Zenith 601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail feathers done; working on the wings.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 4:37 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Just a thought Lynn. Do you still have a spark plug ring thermocouple that
you could place on the same cylinder as the newly placed thermocouple?
Reading both temps at the same time should give a good comparison.

Mervin Friesen
Sonex 122 Jab 2200

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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 4:52 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Amazingly simple, but great idea, Craig...if I hadn't already
committed to the location I have now, I'd do it. Somebody else do it
and let me and the others know. Jim?

Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs, and counting...all systems are go, or nearly so...
On Sep 29, 2008, at 12:44 AM, Craig Payne wrote:

Quote:

<craig(at)craigandjean.com>

Temporarily install a thermocouple under the plug and in your new
hole. That
will allow you to build a conversion chart.

-- Craig


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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 5:17 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

I haven't seen a post by Peter since the Aug 25 one....did you get
his post that I forwarded to you, Jim?
I think I would be reluctant to change anything right now too, if I
were you, Jim, being as how you are still under warranty. Being as
how I am way over warranty, and the factory doesn't seem to give two
hoots about even seeing my recent gear breakage (other than the
picture that Pete forwarded to them), or trying to determine why it
would break, I think they would take delight in voiding your warranty
at the mere mention of doing anything other than what is cast in
stone....sorry, I'm not the biggest fan of the Jabiru corp at this
moment.

Cutting the present terminal like you describe sounds like a good way
to go. I didn't consider that because I could see some rust on the
"iron" wire....the probes are two dissimilar wires, iron and
constantan....where the insulation was frayed, and wanted to scrape
the rust clean and re-insulate, so I opted for the new terminal.
Being that your terminals are probably new and ok, I'd do like you
suggested and cut them when you do decide to go ahead and change them.

I got the attachment, but all I see when opening it is: "EMBED
PBrush" (without the quotes) within a rectangular border, and
nothing else. Of course I'm on an eMac so my world of computers
differs from yours, I'm sure. I cannot see some of the stuff that the
IBM world sees.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs, and counting...all systems are go, or nearly so...
On Sep 29, 2008, at 2:19 AM, Jim Crowder wrote:

[quote] Lynn,
I now understand. Unless I am confident of where I am going with
this, I am
reluctant to drill into my head as Peter did. Has Peter reported the
temperatures he is getting, or is he not flying yet? I should
think your
temperatures would be similar to what others get with the rings
under the
head bolts if they allow the sensor to lie flat upon the head.
There is a
paste that could also be placed under the terminal that enhances heat
conduction. It is used with heat sinks, etc. I do not know the
operating
temperature of it. I just looked at my temperature probes and I
could cut
the end portion of the rings so as to remove a horseshoe shaped
portion of
the ring and leave a spade like flat remainder that I could easily
drill for
a #8 screw. That way I believe I would not need to remove the old
terminal
and still get the same result. Did you consider that or were your
sensors
different?

I have copied my Excel display screen to a Word document and I will
attempt
to post by attaching hereto. On the display you will see the graph
with
inserted values except for CHT which were actual values from my GR
instrument with the sensors attached and I had heated them with a
heat gun
while held in a cluster by hand. When the snapshot was taken they had
cooled down to below normal operating temperature. They are all
displayed
in red as I had set the program to display red when above or below
the safe
operational range. If above safe temperature they would also
display red.
Yellow is for near high or low and green is for the optimum range.
It is
really fun to watch them change colors and move up and down as I
apply heat
or remove it. These ranges are set by typing the various numbers
into the
spreadsheet at setup. I do not have rate of cooling programmed
yet. My
Tablet Computer is very flat and has only a 12" diag. display. In
use I
will mount it on my instrument panel and the display I have
attached will
take up one half of the display with Vista GPS driven moving chart
taking up
the other half. I have tried this in my car and boat and it works
nicely.
Note the fuel flow is red as such a flow would indicate a problem.
The same
for the cooling rate which is not now truly functional yet. This
should
work on any laptop with my software and interface. I have spent
way too
much time on this.

I will be interested to see if the attached file goes through. If
not I
will send it directly to you.

Jim Crowder
Kitfox 5
Jabiru 3300 engine

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Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 5:46 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Nope, I replaced all spark plug probes with the #8 electrical ring
terminal, and I don't want to change back now. I'm pretty confident
that the readings I'm getting now are all ok, just nothing to compare
them to at the present. The engine runs fine, climbs well, and
doesn't seem any hotter than before after shut-down, so I'm playing
it by the seat of my pants and assuming everything to be ok.

Just as an aside, I used to install thermocouples on test cars that
we would run in the wind tunnel at Chrysler Proving Grounds. They
were having problems attaching the probes onto exhaust manifolds.
They tried brazing them on, and the braze would pop off...they might
not have gotten a clean job....so they would braze and use high temp
tape to hold them in place. They weren't getting the numbers they
expected, and would discover that the probe wasn't touching the
manifold any longer.
The I started to experiment with a TIG welder, and found that I could
melt a small puddle on the manifold and quickly insert the probe
wires into the molten cast iron and hold it until the puddle
solidified. We never had another issue with them coming off. I also
found the same method to work where they were trying to read the
temperature of the back of the aluminum bell housing on an automatic
transmission. (They were concerned with reducing the heat coming
through the floor mats) Like the manifolds, the t'couples would fall
off when merely taped into position, so I fired up the TIG and melted
a small puddle right where they wanted it, and stuck the probe into
it. Again, the probes never came off.
These probes were iron-constantan, or J type, and chromel-alumel, or
K type. The J's work best up to about 600° F as I recall, and the K's
are best at 600 and above. Our plug/CHT probes are the J type and the
EGT probes are K type.

Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs, and counting...all systems are go, or nearly so...
On Sep 29, 2008, at 8:36 AM, Mervin Friesen wrote:

[quote]
<mefriesen(at)mts.net>

Just a thought Lynn. Do you still have a spark plug ring
thermocouple that
you could place on the same cylinder as the newly placed thermocouple?
Reading both temps at the same time should give a good comparison.

Mervin Friesen
Sonex 122 Jab 2200

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:25 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Lynn,
Sorry it did not display. It did display on mine when I received it back.
I think it is a Mac related problem--different systems. I will try
something else soon and send it to you directly. I'm about to head out to
my hangar to refit the cowl I just modified again. Then I will move on to
the engine install. Currently it's just hanging there with not much else
done.

Jim Crowder

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:26 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Pete,
Thanks for your reply. Please keep me updated.

Jim Crowder

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:35 am    Post subject: CHT probe placement Reply with quote

Lynn,
I have converted the screen shot to an Adobe PDF document and attached it
here. That should work better for everyone.
Jim Crowder

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