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RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate

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d_emond(at)mweb.co.za
Guest

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 11:06 am Post subject: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate

I would be interested to hear the pro's and cons for painting or plating of 

steps and door hinges in particular on RV 10 builds ?



What are builders choosing to do and why?

Dave Emond

ZU- RVD

160 Hours flying time.

orchidman

Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
Location: Oklahoma City - KRCE

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 12:17 pm Post subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate

 	  d_emond(at)mweb.co.za wrote: 	
		  I would be interested to hear the pro's and cons for painting or plating of 

steps and door hinges in particular on RV 10 builds ? 	


Also Powder coated?

_________________
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)

drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.
Guest

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 2:19 pm Post subject: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate

Edmond:



I had mine chromed.  They look good.  Cost a little bit more.  Only 

thing I would do (next time) is to step up to a AN4 bolt  and use a 

reamer to do the hole.  35 hrs and my steps are getting loose.  I think 

Deems was one of the first to suggest putting in a larger bolt.  I think 

it is part due to the size of the bolt and the difficulty in getting a 

round hole with a normal drill bit. I will go back into the floor in the 

near future and put in access plates and fix the problem. 



Another reason to do the weight loss thing. 

Fred Williams

40515. 





 	  Quote:

jeff(at)westcottpress.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 3:55 pm Post subject: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate

.. and while you're at it... what are people doing to protect the  

inside of the step from corrosion... if anything?



Jeff Carpenter

40304

On Oct 22, 2008, at 12:05 PM, Emond wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I would be interested to hear the pro's and cons for painting or  

 plating of steps and door hinges in particular on RV 10 builds ?



 What are builders choosing to do and why?

 Dave Emond

 ZU- RVD

 160 Hours flying time.

AirMike

Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:42 pm Post subject: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate

I FITTED my steps in a long time ago. I strongly urge builders to:



1. Nut plate the entire rear baggage / back seat area -   OR



2. Put an inspection panel in above the steps -  to repair or replace the steps and check for corrosion on an ongoing basis



I put the inspection plate in above the step bolts. This allows you to clean corrosion in the step area, upsize the step bolt as needed, inspect the area for corrosion, add an additional bolt, and remove the step (during the build) so that you do not have sore shins for the next year.



As a 1200 hr pilot my observation is that the RV10 has (to my view) three major flaws. 1. An un-inspectable rear and front sub-floor area  2. permanently glued and secured windows and 3. badly molded vertical opening doors.  ------ At least you can cure flaw #1 - do it......

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_________________
See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold.

AirMike

Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:45 pm Post subject: baggage area

Oh yea - while you are at it - run some flex conduit for future wiring and put a nylon line or tent cord in the conduit

_________________
See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold.

bwestfall

Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 131
Location: Portland, OR

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:11 pm Post subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate

I second or third or nth the access cover (keeps you from having to lose weight!)



Mike are you aware that your access cover is going to be under the side panel?  The side panel is supposed to be pop riveted through the floor which will put a rivet or two right through your access panel.



I attached some pics of my install.  I was pretty careful to make it accessible after the side panel is installed.  A side effect of that though is the bolt cannot be dropped in from the top.  You cannot tell from my pictures but I removed the bolt and redrilled it horizontally.  This will allow me to remove/insert with my access plate slightly askew like it is.



-Ben

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johngoodman

Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:45 am Post subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate

I had mine chromed - cost $150 plus sales tax for $159. Took 4 weeks but they look great. As far as the inside of the steps, I took a piece of large wood dowel used for closet hangers and stapled some coarse sandpaper to it with enough wraps to make it snug. Let it overlap a little to get the bottom of the tube. Got it to shine, cleaned with acetone, masking tape over the holes, then enough Zinc Oxide to paint a small house. The chrome guy had removed all the factory primer and the outside of the unchromed shaft was pretty ugly with tape marks and stuff. Lots of sandpaper and scotchbrite later I got them looking like the chromed part. Will either prime them or coat with Boeshield T-9. Still not sure what to do about the AN3 bolt wobbling over time.



John

_________________
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011

johngoodman

Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 7:01 pm Post subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate

Decided to Boeshield T-9 the step shafts. Access through the lightening holes in the future for additional inspection/anticorrosion. Found the perfect solution for step wobble - an AN173-20 bolt. It's a "close tolerance" bolt that won't fit an AN3 hole without a little persuasion. I just spun a bit in my fingers until the AN173 decided to go through. Absolutely NO movement.

John

_________________
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011

drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.
Guest

Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 6:49 am Post subject: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate

John ;



Sounds like a good idea.  AN173 bolt.  Let us know how tight it is after 

climbing in and out of the airplane the first couple months.  My concern 

is that there just isn't enough mass on the outer tube to keep it from 

moving with the 200 + "foot lbs" that are placed on the step each time.  

If I had the flange out of the plane and not riveted in, I'd consider 

welding a 3/8 inch tab to get more beef for the the close tolerance 

bolt.   Might even consider a sleeve over the tube and then welding it 

to the mount before drilling.  Just a thought. 

Dr Fred. 



Should get that last 1 1/2 hrs done today and get her signed off.    

Let's go somewhere!

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