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rivethead door block installation help

 
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bwestfall



Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 131
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:47 pm    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help Reply with quote

My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?

I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.

I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.

Curious what others have done?

-Ben Westfall
#40579

I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…



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rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:09 pm    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help Reply with quote

Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.

-Bob Newman



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bwestfall



Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 131
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:37 pm    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help Reply with quote

So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver blocks?



Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.



-Bob Newman






Quote:

My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?

I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.

I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.

Curious what others have done?

-Ben Westfall
#40579

I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…



__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755 (20090109) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.


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pascal(at)rv10builder.net
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:02 pm    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help Reply with quote

Ben;
with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm this weekend.
I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
Pascal



From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com)
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation help



So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver blocks?



Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.



-Bob Newman






Quote:

My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?

I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.

I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.

Curious what others have done?

-Ben Westfall
#40579

I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755 (20090109) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

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href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.co
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 10:46 pm    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help Reply with quote

Ben,

I was able to rig the pins so they went through the blocks and the door frame. I let the pin protrude from the door about 3/16" when it's fully retracted. It still clears the door frame, and it gives the pin a little head start to fully engage the frame.

I also put two additional notches in the plate that catches the rollpin/stop so the handle "locks" not just in the closed position but also in the fully open position. The stock notches are are roughly 9:00 and 3:00. The new notches are at about 12:00 and 6:00.




From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:34 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation help


So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver blocks?



Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.



-Bob Newman






Quote:

My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?

I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.

I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.

Curious what others have done?

-Ben Westfall
#40579

I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755 (20090109) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Web Forums!
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=========== [/b][quote][b]


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pascal(at)rv10builder.net
Guest





PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:21 am    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help Reply with quote

From: pascal (pascal(at)rv10builder.net)
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: rivethead door block installation help


Ben;
with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm this weekend.
I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
Pascal



From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com)
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation help



So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver blocks?



Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.



-Bob Newman






Quote:

My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?

I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.

I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.

Curious what others have done?

-Ben Westfall
#40579

I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755 (20090109) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Web Forums!
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=========== [/b][quote]

href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
[b]


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pascal(at)rv10builder.net
Guest





PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:38 am    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help Reply with quote

Ben;
The magnetic pin is more like 1/8 past the fusellage in the closed position.
1/16 past the door in the opened position
it’s easier to cut the rod than file down the blocks. I cut about 1 inch off my rods to fit the 48/64 pins as starting reference for you.
Pascal


From: pascal (pascal(at)rv10builder.net)
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: rivethead door block installation help


Ben;
with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm this weekend.
I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
Pascal



From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com)
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation help



So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver blocks?



Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.



-Bob Newman






Quote:

My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?

I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.

I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.

Curious what others have done?

-Ben Westfall
#40579

I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755 (20090109) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Web Forums!
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=========== [/b][quote]

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href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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[b]


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bwestfall



Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 131
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:12 am    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help Reply with quote

Thanks for all the responses guys.

I actually spoke w/Van himself a while back about the rivethead door blocks/pins which is what prompted my question. He looked at them with an eye of skepticism because he hadn’t “done the engineering” on them. He continued by saying that the door locking design was engineered to spread the load onto the door pins through the cabin top and frame. The analysis of the parts when engineering the door mechanisms showed sufficient strength for the forces that the door would be subject to.

He hadn’t looked at the rivethead setup closely so my understanding of what he was basically saying was I wouldn’t install them if they departed from the original design without doing an engineering analysis of their strength. For legality reasons I’m sure he wouldn’t say “yeah they are fine”. I think he wanted to make sure that the strength of the door closing mechanism should come from the pins passing through the cabin top and frame.

I wanted to make sure that after installing the blocks that the door pins would still pass all the way through so the load of the door pins was still on the cabin top and frame and not just applied to just the two AN3 bolts that will hold the door blocks on. I think that was Van’s fear with the product. Who knows if the shear strength of the AN3 bolts is sufficient w/o proper research? Also is the threaded in tip just as strong as the rod end?

It’s always prudent to look at any modification with an eye towards “does this modify the engineering intent of the design?”. I’m not qualified to answer that so I’m overly paranoid about modifications sometimes.

-Ben


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 7:37 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: rivethead door block installation help


Ben;

The magnetic pin is more like 1/8 past the fusellage in the closed position.

1/16 past the door in the opened position

it’s easier to cut the rod than file down the blocks. I cut about 1 inch off my rods to fit the 48/64 pins as starting reference for you.

Pascal



From: pascal (pascal(at)rv10builder.net)

Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: Re: rivethead door block installation help





Ben;

with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm this weekend.

I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.

Pascal





From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com)

Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation help





So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver blocks?



Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.



-Bob Newman






Quote:

My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?

I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.

I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.

Curious what others have done?

-Ben Westfall
#40579

I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…



__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3755 (20090109) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
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pascal(at)rv10builder.net
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:48 am    Post subject: rivethead door block installation help Reply with quote

I agree that having the frame as the core for the strength is key. The blocks will add an extra measure of strength which would avoid the threaded part from really being stressed/bent, per se.
One thing I am rather certain about, the mag tips will help with the rear not closing correctly, an issue that resulted in many door issues using the stock setup.
I am talking off of thought and not fact BTW, I still need to get the door fully installed and tested to assure all is as I'm thinking, but I expect it will be.
Let me know if you need any other guidance and I'll focus my build around this section for you.
Pascal

From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com)
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 8:10 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation help



Thanks for all the responses guys.

I actually spoke w/Van himself a while back about the rivethead door blocks/pins which is what prompted my question. He looked at them with an eye of skepticism because he hadn’t “done the engineering” on them. He continued by saying that the door locking design was engineered to spread the load onto the door pins through the cabin top and frame. The analysis of the parts when engineering the door mechanisms showed sufficient strength for the forces that the door would be subject to.

He hadn’t looked at the rivethead setup closely so my understanding of what he was basically saying was I wouldn’t install them if they departed from the original design without doing an engineering analysis of their strength. For legality reasons I’m sure he wouldn’t say “yeah they are fine”. I think he wanted to make sure that the strength of the door closing mechanism should come from the pins passing through the cabin top and frame.

I wanted to make sure that after installing the blocks that the door pins would still pass all the way through so the load of the door pins was still on the cabin top and frame and not just applied to just the two AN3 bolts that will hold the door blocks on. I think that was Van’s fear with the product. Who knows if the shear strength of the AN3 bolts is sufficient w/o proper research? Also is the threaded in tip just as strong as the rod end?

It’s always prudent to look at any modification with an eye towards “does this modify the engineering intent of the design?”. I’m not qualified to answer that so I’m overly paranoid about modifications sometimes.

-Ben


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 7:37 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: rivethead door block installation help


Ben;

The magnetic pin is more like 1/8 past the fusellage in the closed position.

1/16 past the door in the opened position

it’s easier to cut the rod than file down the blocks. I cut about 1 inch off my rods to fit the 48/64 pins as starting reference for you.

Pascal



From: pascal (pascal(at)rv10builder.net)

Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: Re: rivethead door block installation help



Ben;

with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm this weekend.

I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.

Pascal





From: Ben Westfall (rv10(at)sinkrate.com)

Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: RE: rivethead door block installation help



So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver blocks?



Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.



-Bob Newman






Quote:

My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door blocks… How did you make them fit?

I’ve trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van’s angle cut so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.

I don’t want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won’t protrude through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I’d assume for strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but I’d bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.

Curious what others have done?

-Ben Westfall
#40579

I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends…

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