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icrashrc
Joined: 16 Mar 2006 Posts: 247 Location: Mishawaka, In
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:05 pm Post subject: Windshield Installation |
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I'm about to start installing the optional windshield on my Mark III Xtra. I assume it's optional as there's no info in the building manual on it. LOL
Anyway, having never worked with Lexan before I'm looking for any words of wisdom on the whole fitting, cutting, and drilling process. We wrapped a couple ratcheting type straps around the blank piece provided by Kolb but the tension required to bend the Lexan seems to distort the tubing of cage a fair amount. Thanks,
Scott
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slyck(at)frontiernet.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:22 pm Post subject: Windshield Installation |
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Scott, mine is not a MkIIIx -or even a normal MkIIIc but here is how
I would
approach it: 1. given the blank is larger than the finished window,
drill and cleco
one side first, possibly leaving extra to be trimmed if you are fussy.
2. wrap it to the other side, the first tube will not deform now
because it is held in line with the clecos.
3. drill and cleco the second side.
4. trim to size.
5. I used an orbital jigsaw on my 1/8" stuff and it worked well, had
to clean up the cut with a mill file
6. put masking tape on the cutting area.
BB
On 31, Dec 2008, at 5:05 PM, icrashrc wrote:
Quote: |
I'm about to start installing the optional windshield on my Mark
III Xtra. I assume it's optional as there's no info in the building
manual on it. LOL
Anyway, having never worked with Lexan before I'm looking for any
words of wisdom on the whole fitting, cutting, and drilling
process. We wrapped a couple ratcheting type straps around the
blank piece provided by Kolb but the tension required to bend the
Lexan seems to distort the tubing of cage a fair amount. Thanks,
Scott
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 22045#222045
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jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:27 pm Post subject: Windshield Installation |
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If the windsheild is going to be riveted in place with 1/8 inch rivets, as
it is on the MK-3C, then I cut the lexan slightly larger that the span
required, with a jigsaw, with masking tape a buffer to prevent scratching of
the material. I also used spring clamps to hold it in place for the repeated
trial fit/ removal/ refit, etc. You will have to clamp the lexan in place
several times, but eventually, drill thru it to hold it inplace for the
fitting process.#6 screws will hold it while fitting instead of the rivets.
clecos might work as well. I think I removed & installed mine at least a
dozen times while fitting it to my frame. I also sanded with 120/ & 220 grit
on the edges to get the fit right. It is tough stuff.But don`t drill/fit it
in with bowed cage tubing, sort of pre-curve the 2-3 foot span of the front
cage by hand. Once you are ready to permanantly attach ( with rivets) if
thats how the MK-3X attaches), drill the 1/8 inch holes slightly over sized
to allow for material expansion/contraction with temp change, before you
rivet them on. If the MK#X doesn`t attach with 1/8 inche rivets, someone
else chime in.
Jim Kmet
Cookeville, TN
MK3C
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mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 4:26 pm Post subject: Windshield Installation |
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Quote: | I'm about to start installing the optional windshield on my Mark III Xtra. I assume it's optional as there's no info in the building manual on it. LOL
Scott
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Mister Scott,
Bob and Jim have both suggested some helpful tips. I believe you will find Jim's idea of using
those hand clamps the best way to temporarily hold the sheet in place for fitment.
1) If I were beginning my installation, the first thing I'd do is clamp one side securely with those hand-clamps(You should have about 10 on hand). Then, start drilling along that one edge.
I found it worked out pretty good with a 3" rivet spacing. Allow for at least 1/2" overhang on this side for final trimming. Cleco it with about 20 clecos equally spaced. (about every 2nd hole, maybe more)
2) Bend the windshield to final position using lots of those cushioned jawed hand-clamps and secure it so that that other post is not distorted. Also, now you can put those clamps along the top and bottom edge. Drill it out along the entire length. Then drill it out along the top and bottom edge. Apply clecos as needed.
3) IIRC, I drilled my initial holes with 3/32 drill bits. After I was completely done with the initial drilling on the frame, I opened all the holes up to 1/8".
4) With regard to the Lexan holes, it was recommended to use a drill bit a teeny bit bigger than the 1/8" pop rivet.....say, .130 or so.
5) I'm sure you remember my inquiry a little over a year ago about the design of the "plastic
products drill bit". Our good friend, Rick Gerard supplied me with a drawing of the proper shape
of a Lexan drilling bit. If you need a picture of it, let me know, I should be able to find it.
BTW, a "regular drill bit" just won't work. It grabs and spirals into the plastic, rather than cutting away the material. It is very, very important to use the proper drill bit for plastic drilling.
6) I found that a high-speed grinder with a 1/16" cutting disc worked okay for trimming an edge.
But, do NOT go slowly, keep a good pace, or it can melt the edges. Doesn't ruin it, just makes more work to trim the melted part.
There you go. More information than you need. Oh, BTW, when Jim K. said he installed/removed his 12 times, he may have meant 120 times....at least it seemed that many times for me.
In a month or two, after you finished all your Lexan pieces, have a party and celebrate. I
felt like that was one job I truely underestimated how much work it was.
Best to ya,
Mike Welch
MkIII
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Snoopy Baxley
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 42
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 8:49 pm Post subject: Windshield Installation |
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Scott you have had some good suggestions on your windshield project but if your like me and got your windshield kit from Kolb you opened the box to find a sheet of semi-precut Lexan and some metal tubing parts. Makes you want to scratch your head a lot if you have never put one of these on before.
After I got my railing and bows mounted in place on my Kolb . I then used a big piece of card board to go over the bows to use as a pattern for my Lexan . I cut and trimmed my card board till I had it fitting just right . Then I placed it on my sheet of Lexan and marked it out. I allowed a little extra on each end to trim off later if I didn't need it . I thought this would work better than handling that big piece of Lexan. I too used a rotary disk to cut my Lexan also. It worked out good .
Stephen
Stay up-atest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between.
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icrashrc
Joined: 16 Mar 2006 Posts: 247 Location: Mishawaka, In
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 8:13 am Post subject: Re: Windshield Installation |
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Thanks to all for the tips. What kind of rivets should i use, aluminum or stainless?
For drilling i have one of these bits. Anyone use one of these?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/plexicuttool.php
Sorry, i see i put the worng link in the first time around. Here's the drill bit...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/plexidrill.php
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_________________ Scott
www.ill-EagleAviation.com
do not archive
Last edited by icrashrc on Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:50 am; edited 1 time in total |
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williamtsullivan(at)att.n Guest
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 9:23 am Post subject: windshield installation |
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Scott: That tool works fine on plexiglass, but I don't know if it will work on Lexan. I can tell you that if it gets dull, use a chain saw file to sharpen it. Use a good straight edge- the tool will track off if you're not careful. I have used it on a lot of plexi up to 1/4". Score multiple times from both sides on the thick stuff, and use a firm clamping board on both sides before snapping off. Practice on scrap first. Let us know if it works on the Lexan.
The rivets probably depend on what you are going into- aluminum or steel.
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks, Ct.
[quote][b]
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John Hauck
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 4639 Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:42 am Post subject: windshield installation |
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I use aluminum rivets, hardware store variety, for lexan. Primarily, because it will have to be replaced sooner than one expects or wants to. Drilling out aluminum is much easier than steel. Also reduces the chance of enlarging the rivet hole in the frame. When you get an old airplane like mine, you will eventually go to larger diameter rivets to adapt to the larger holes.
john h
mkIII
Woodville, Florida
[quote]
The rivets probably depend on what you are going into- aluminum or steel.
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks, Ct.
[b]
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_________________ John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama |
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mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co Guest
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 12:08 pm Post subject: windshield installation |
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John C group C
I just made this same suggestion to Scott "off list". I had to drill out some SS rivets in Lexan C and they
have a tendency to spin and melt the hole's inner surface. This taught me: Aluminum rivets definitely are the way
to go for Lexan installation.
Mike Welch
MkIII
I use aluminum rivets C hardware store variety C for lexan.
john h
mkIII
Woodville C Florida
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icrashrc
Joined: 16 Mar 2006 Posts: 247 Location: Mishawaka, In
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 3:50 am Post subject: Re: Windshield Installation |
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Thanks to all again. I assumed aluminum rivets but thought i should ask.
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_________________ Scott
www.ill-EagleAviation.com
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icrashrc
Joined: 16 Mar 2006 Posts: 247 Location: Mishawaka, In
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 3:39 pm Post subject: Re: Windshield Installation |
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I've started the windshield installation page.
http://www.ill-eagleaviation.com/windshield_installation.htm
My saber saw works well for cutting Lexan. The Plexiglas drill bit from Aircraft Spruce also works well. Thanks to all for the help and suggestions.
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_________________ Scott
www.ill-EagleAviation.com
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