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Cowl fitting question - when

 
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AirMike



Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:59 pm    Post subject: Cowl fitting question - when Reply with quote

As you can see from the prior post - I have installed my engine on the airframe. Should I fit the cowl (upper & lower) now or is it best to do the baffling first for a better fit?

Or does the baffling get in the way of the cowl fitting job?


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rene(at)felker.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 8:12 pm    Post subject: Cowl fitting question - when Reply with quote

I did cowl first.........I think the baffling would get in the way with the
cowl fit......

Rene'
801-721-6080
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ricksked(at)embarqmail.co
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 8:17 pm    Post subject: Cowl fitting question - when Reply with quote

Fit the cowl first...make sure you get the nose ring as close to 13" ROUND as possible first them slip the top over the bottom cowl and start your work on the horizontal joint...work from the front back. Once you have the cowl done. Install the baffles,..put paper clips on the baffles and lower the top cowl down..the clips will slide down and give you a starting point to start cutting the baffles...once you get the clips to stay above the baffles by about 3/8" when the top cowl is in place you're good to go. Sounds easy but be ready for many ons and offs of the cowl and baffles for trimming...go slow...

Rick S.
40185
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Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.co
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:16 pm    Post subject: Cowl fitting question - when Reply with quote

Mike,

We usually fit the baffles first, but be prepared to trim the baffles to get
the cowl to fit well.

A couple other points:

Fit the cowl so it initially sits about 1/8"-3/16" below the spinner. That
way as the engine mounts break in and sag, the top of the cowl will end up
flush with the spinner. That happens gradually over the first 50-100 hours,
then pretty much stops. Don't worry about the gap between the spinner and
the cowl closing up--just make that gap even, and the split line level.

Give yourself plenty of clearance at the front inlet ramps. Mine is too
tight, with about 1/8" between the ramps and the cowl. I haven't adjusted
it yet, but it's on my list. Too tight here makes the lower cowl harder to
remove.

Think about angling the top of the rear baffle forward, like in the picture.
That makes it a lot easier to lower the top cowl into place, and it might
help sealing too. The sides seem to work out pretty well since the cowl
approaches the baffles there at an angle, but the rear stands straight up
and half the time the baffle tends to bend aft instead of forward. The
angle makes it work right every time, and helps even without the big door.

Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879

PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 5:04 am    Post subject: Cowl fitting question - when Reply with quote

Definitely cowl first. Then when it all fits, you can remove
and reinstall the cowl dozens of times as you trim the baffling
lower and lower into position, and know that it will all fit with
the proper clearance. Without the cowl fit, you may not get the
baffling trimmed to the right position.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
AirMike wrote:
Quote:


As you can see from the prior post - I have installed my engine on the airframe. Should I fit the cowl (upper & lower) now or is it best to do the baffling first for a better fit?

Or does the baffling get in the way of the cowl fitting job?

--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF





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