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Door strut

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wayne.e(at)grandecom.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:53 am Post subject: Door strut

I have been having troubles, over time, with the  door struts supplied by Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and  possible hit me or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've  talked to several people about this and they're having the same  problem.

  

 A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron  Grover who also has a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have  solved his problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I  would pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same  problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being finished  with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others I'm  sure.

  

 I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies,  <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"  />6820 Fairfield Business  Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. [url=]www.JWFtechnologies.com[/url].<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns =  "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> 

The struts are Stabilus,  Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and  cost was $78 each. They didn’t have them in stock, they come from Germany, and  they said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them  in. 

On another note, I had to fly  from North Texas up to northern Iowa this past weekend for a funeral, burr cold,  and ran into a problem that I thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept  noticing that my slip ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep  applying left rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was  attributing some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good.  

Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying  to get out ahead of a snow storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated  hangar space I rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man  after being in Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man  that was cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane  was really liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep  the ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the  last 100 miles in the dark.  

About 60 out from my home base I started to hear  and feeling a fairly noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my  wife, who isn't real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the  engine was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously  concerned because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but  everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were  all fine. 

So I just continued on home without making any  quick movements and landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine  what was causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely  checked all surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P  friend of mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front  wheel. I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from  side to side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened.  The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just gotten  more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight and the  vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from the rudder.   

I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel  pant cantered to one side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for  some reason when I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with  the wind hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise.  

Just thought I would pass this along in case any  of you experience this same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during  my conditional before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those  landings up there in the north country loosened it up.  

Wayne Edgerton N602WT 

  

 

   [quote][b]

ricksked(at)embarqmail.co
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:20 am Post subject: Door strut

Wayne, 

  

What's with you and them nosewheels   does anyone recommend increasing the side pull tension initial set to more than 25 pounds? I plan to check it on a regular basis until the washers finally seat to each other. At what  point can you stop checking the tension  frequently? 

  

Rick S.

---

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:50 am Post subject: Door strut

Glad it worked out for you Wayne.  I will tell you that the

nosewheel tension will probably be something that you'll have

to do about 3-4 times within the first 250 hours, and then

after that it will start to become more stable. I'm sure

it's just those parts wearing in together a little.

I'd check it maybe at 50, 100, 175, 250 or so, and then

annually after that.  I too have noticed that the nosewheel

can affect rudder trim.  It moves some when you use the rudder

hard.  If you kick one pedal good and then look at the

ball, and then kick the other pedal good and then look at

the ball, you will see it sometimes keeps the ball one way or

the other slightly.  I try to tap them back and forth a couple

times lighter and get it to be as centered as possible, and

then trim out the rest with rudder trim.  I attribute the

stickyness to the 20+ lbs of breakout force required to

get the nosewheel to move to make it swing.  The

propwash circle of moving air pushing against the tail

of the nose fairing may also be part of why most builders

see a little bit of out-of-trim rudder even if they build

it straight.  A minor annoyance, in any case.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

do not archive

Wayne Edgerton wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by 

 Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me 

 or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several 

 people about this and they're having the same problem.

  

 A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has 

 a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his 

 problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would 

 pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same 

 problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being 

 finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others 

 I'm sure.

  

 I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business 

 Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com.

 

 The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78 

 each. They didn’t have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they 

 said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in.

 

 On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this 

 past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I 

 thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip 

 ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left 

 rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing 

 some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good.

 

 Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow 

 storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I 

 rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in 

 Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was 

 cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really 

 liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the 

 ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100 

 miles in the dark. 

 

 About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly 

 noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't 

 real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine 

 was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously concerned 

 because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but 

 everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine.

 

 So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and 

 landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was 

 causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all 

 surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of 

 mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel. 

 I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side to 

 side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened. 

 The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just 

 gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight 

 and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from 

 the rudder.

 

 I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one 

 side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when 

 I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind 

 hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise.

 

 Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this 

 same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional 

 before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up 

 there in the north country loosened it up. 

 

 Wayne Edgerton N602WT

 

  

 

  

 

 *

 

 

 *

Neal.George(at)hurlburt.a
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:48 am Post subject: Door strut

The day after you sell it...?



neal



<< At what  point can you stop checking the tension  frequently?



Rick S.  >>

rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:49 am Post subject: Door strut

Wayne,    Do you know how many lbs  of force these new struts have vs. how many lbs the struts have that came from  vans?     I was working on my doors/canopy recently and  decided to measure the strut force on my van's supplied parts.     I measured 120 lbs force required to compress the strut and thought that was an  amazing amount of force even given the tight geometry of door/strut mounting  brackets.  thoughts??

  

 Thanks,

 Bob Newman

  

  

 [quote]   ---

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:30 am Post subject: Door strut

Rick, to answer your question about > 25lbs,  that's what I did the

2nd or 3rd time I did mine.  With that castlenut, I could choose

between maybe 18-20lbs, or maybe 30-35lbs, so with the past

experience, I chose the higher.  Now when I did the Matco axle,

I just did a guesstimate by hand and I'd say I was now in the

20's somewhere.  So I'd err on the high side within reason,

if you have to choose.



Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying



Rick Sked wrote:

[quote] Wayne,

 

  

 

 What's with you and them nosewheels   does anyone recommend increasing 

 the side pull tension initial set to more than 25 pounds? I plan to 

 check it on a regular basis until the washers finally seat to each 

 other. At what  point can you stop checking the tension  frequently?

 

  

 

 Rick S.

 ---

ricksked(at)embarqmail.co
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:36 pm Post subject: Door strut

I'm swapping my nose wheel out with  Grove unit so I thought I'd ask before lowering the nose down.

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T



--

AV8ORJWC

Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:55 pm Post subject: Door strut

Attached is a beautiful shot of a Canadian, Three blade with the nose

wheel cant "In Cruise".  This is one of over 100 fully painted RV-10s

from my database update.  I always wondered how many were skewed in

flight due to low breakout force and the nosewheel weather veining at

cruise.



Maybe Mr. Corrigan could fill us in.



Tim, I missed the Break Out force numbers on the Nosewheel called out in

your Conditional Inspection - Landing Gear Section.  Must be ole age on

my part cause you are soooo thorough.  We have added it to RV6s which

required the mod for such things.



John Cox Flying N26XE in my dreams



--

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wayne.e(at)grandecom.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:48 am Post subject: Door strut

Hi Tim,

  

 I'm at almost 240 hours now so hopefully it will  stay tight a little longer. 

  

 Wayne edgerton N602WT

  

 do not archive

  

             Time:      09:50:18 AM PST  US            From:      Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com (Tim(at)MyRV10.com)>            Subject:      Re: Door    strut       

      

      Glad it  worked out for you Wayne.  I will tell you that  the

      nosewheel tension will probably be  something that you'll have

      to do about 3-4  times within the first 250 hours, and then

       after that it will start to become more stable. I'm  sure

      it's just those parts wearing in together  a little.

      I'd check it maybe at 50, 100, 175,  250 or so, and then

      annually after that.   I too have noticed that the nosewheel

      can  affect rudder trim.  It moves some when you use the  rudder

      hard.  If you kick one pedal good  and then look at the

      ball, and then kick the  other pedal good and then look at

      the ball,  you will see it sometimes keeps the ball one way  or

      the other slightly.  I try to tap them  back and forth a couple

      times lighter and get  it to be as centered as possible, and

      then  trim out the rest with rudder trim.  I attribute  the

      stickyness to the 20+ lbs of breakout  force required to

      get the nosewheel to move to  make it swing.  The

      propwash circle of  moving air pushing against the tail

      of the  nose fairing may also be part of why most  builders

      see a little bit of out-of-trim  rudder even if they build

      it straight.  A  minor annoyance, in any case.

       

      

      Tim Olson  - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

      do not  archive



   [quote][b]

wayne.e(at)grandecom.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:03 am Post subject: Door strut

Bob,

  

 Ron told me the number but I forgot what it was. I  do remember it was about 25% stronger than the Van's strut.

  

 Wayne Edgerton N602WT

  

 do not archive

   [quote][b]

dmaib@me.com

Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 455
Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida

Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:32 pm Post subject: Door strut

I checked mine at the end of the 40 hour phase one and it was very  

loose. I will check again in another 25 hours or so.



David Maib

40559 flying

On Jan 28, 2009, at 12:27 PM, Tim Olson wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Glad it worked out for you Wayne.  I will tell you that the

 nosewheel tension will probably be something that you'll have

 to do about 3-4 times within the first 250 hours, and then

 after that it will start to become more stable. I'm sure

 it's just those parts wearing in together a little.

 I'd check it maybe at 50, 100, 175, 250 or so, and then

 annually after that.  I too have noticed that the nosewheel

 can affect rudder trim.  It moves some when you use the rudder

 hard.  If you kick one pedal good and then look at the

 ball, and then kick the other pedal good and then look at

 the ball, you will see it sometimes keeps the ball one way or

 the other slightly.  I try to tap them back and forth a couple

 times lighter and get it to be as centered as possible, and

 then trim out the rest with rudder trim.  I attribute the

 stickyness to the 20+ lbs of breakout force required to

 get the nosewheel to move to make it swing.  The

 propwash circle of moving air pushing against the tail

 of the nose fairing may also be part of why most builders

 see a little bit of out-of-trim rudder even if they build

 it straight.  A minor annoyance, in any case.

 Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

 do not archive

 Wayne Edgerton wrote:

> I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts  

> supplied by Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and  

> possible hit me or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful.  

> I've talked to several people about this and they're having the  

> same problem.

>  A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who  

> also has a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have  

> solved his problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and  

> thought I would pass along the source for these in case any of you  

> are having the same problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors  

> with the doors being finished with arm rests, so that makes them a  

> little heavier than others I'm sure.

>  I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield  

> Business Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611.  

> www.JWFtechnologies.com.

> The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost  

> was $78 each. They didn’t have them in stock, they come from  

> Germany, and they said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in.

> On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa  

> this past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem  

> that I thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing  

> that my slip ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep  

> applying left rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so  

> I was attributing some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good.

> Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a  

> snow storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar  

> space I rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man  

> after being in Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas  

> weenie, man that was cold. One positive of the cold was thick air  

> and the plane was really liking to climb. I noticed again that I  

> needed left rudder to keep the ball centered. We ended up with  

> head winds and had to fly the last 100 miles in the dark. About 60  

> out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly  

> noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who  

> isn't real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought  

> the engine was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was  

> obviously concerned because any time something flutters I think of  

> control surfaces, but everything felt fine there and the engine  

> parameters were all fine.

> So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and  

> landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what  

> was causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely  

> checked all surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an  

> A&P friend of mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness  

> of the front wheel. I found that the wheel was fairly loose and  

> could be pushed from side to side without much effort. Apparently  

> over time the tension had loosened. The nut for the fork was in  

> place but apparently over time in had just gotten more play. I  

> tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight and the  

> vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from the  

> rudder.

> I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to  

> one side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some  

> reason when I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one  

> side with the wind hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise.

> Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience  

> this same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my  

> conditional before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all  

> those landings up there in the north country loosened it up. Wayne  

> Edgerton N602WT

>   *

> *

_________________
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL

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