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wiring question

 
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bertrv6(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:05 pm    Post subject: wiring question Reply with quote

Hi:

In checking my wiring, now that I am istalling the second radio, I
found that a couple of the real small wires, of the trim tab, I think
they
are 24/26 if I remember corectly, are almost completely broken...that
is why I had problem with the triming...the only thing I can think of
is
when one, remove the tie wraps, I think because the small size, the
cutting pliers, nick the wires...

The question is , I have to now splice, these two wires, add a longer
piece, etc..what is the best thing to do this delicate task..
solder a piece,,can I use a little larger gauge? I guess the answer
is not...then to crimp these rascals,, I need all the suggestions
from all experts....how I am going to strip this things...and all
that, under the inst. panel.

Your comments and suggestions will be appreciated.
Bert

rv6a

do not archive


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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:35 pm    Post subject: wiring question Reply with quote

bert murillo wrote:
Quote:


Hi:

In checking my wiring, now that I am istalling the second radio, I
found that a couple of the real small wires, of the trim tab, I think
they
are 24/26 if I remember corectly, are almost completely broken...that
is why I had problem with the triming...the only thing I can think of
is
when one, remove the tie wraps, I think because the small size, the
cutting pliers, nick the wires...

The question is , I have to now splice, these two wires, add a longer
piece, etc..what is the best thing to do this delicate task..
solder a piece,,can I use a little larger gauge? I guess the answer
is not...then to crimp these rascals,, I need all the suggestions
from all experts....how I am going to strip this things...and all
that, under the inst. panel.

Your comments and suggestions will be appreciated.
Bert

rv6a

Hi Bert,

If the wires are behind the instrument panel & won't be required to flex
in use, you can splice in a size that's as large or larger & it will be
fine. Either solder or crimp will work fine, as long as the wires are
supported on both sides of the splice so they don't try to flex the
joint. Stripping is just 'technique'. Find some small gauge scrap &
practice with your strippers. If your strippers don't strip wire that
small, practice with a sharp knife, cutting part way through the
insulation all the way around & then flexing the wire at the cut &
pulling on the insulation to remove it.

Charlie


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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:43 pm    Post subject: wiring question Reply with quote

bert murillo wrote:
Quote:


Hi:

In checking my wiring, now that I am istalling the second radio, I
found that a couple of the real small wires, of the trim tab, I think
they
are 24/26 if I remember corectly, are almost completely broken...that
is why I had problem with the triming...
You didn't say what the problem is ..... could have been helpful.

Quote:
the only thing I can think of
is
when one, remove the tie wraps, I think because the small size, the
cutting pliers, nick the wires...

stripping insulation with side-cutters (also known as 'dykes' for some

reason) is for people who have been doing it a long time.
Quote:
The question is , I have to now splice, these two wires, add a longer
piece, etc..what is the best thing to do this delicate task..
solder a piece,,can I use a little larger gauge?
Well, depends on what they connect to, of course. (more missing info)

There is no harm in using heavier gauge wire unless it won't fit in the
receptacle whatever it is.
Quote:
I guess the answer is not...then to crimp these rascals
If they're going to crimp on connectors then crimping is OK on larger

gauge wire.
Quote:
,, I need all the suggestions
from all experts....how I am going to strip this things...and all
that, under the inst. panel.

The top of the list is buy a good wire stripper. Failing that you can

use a razor blade on the small insulation. Lay the wire on a flat
surface and very lightly press a single edge razor blade on the
insulation while you roll the wire. Do not 'saw' with the razor blade.
Think of it more like scoring the insulation than cutting it. Then you
can use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pull the insulation off.
Quote:
Your comments and suggestions will be appreciated.

If I missed the mark here, send me some more data.

Linn
do not archive
Quote:

Bert

rv6a

do not archive


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com




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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:51 pm    Post subject: wiring question Reply with quote

Excellent advice also Charlie. Especially the flexing part. This works
with almost 99% of the insulation, thick or thin.
One other 'wiring' trick I use ..... if you have really slick insulation
.... tefzel or even teflon ..... once you get the insulation cut, slip
a rubber cover from a large alligator clip over the stripped end (use
the small hole end) grip and pull. I have no idea why this works, but
it seems to!
Linn
do not archive
Charlie England wrote:
Quote:


bert murillo wrote:
>
>
> Hi:
>
> In checking my wiring, now that I am istalling the second radio, I
> found that a couple of the real small wires, of the trim tab, I think
> they
> are 24/26 if I remember corectly, are almost completely broken...that
> is why I had problem with the triming...the only thing I can think of
> is
> when one, remove the tie wraps, I think because the small size, the
> cutting pliers, nick the wires...
>
> The question is , I have to now splice, these two wires, add a longer
> piece, etc..what is the best thing to do this delicate task..
> solder a piece,,can I use a little larger gauge? I guess the answer
> is not...then to crimp these rascals,, I need all the suggestions
> from all experts....how I am going to strip this things...and all
> that, under the inst. panel.
>
> Your comments and suggestions will be appreciated.
> Bert
>
> rv6a

Hi Bert,

If the wires are behind the instrument panel & won't be required to
flex in use, you can splice in a size that's as large or larger & it
will be fine. Either solder or crimp will work fine, as long as the
wires are supported on both sides of the splice so they don't try to
flex the joint. Stripping is just 'technique'. Find some small gauge
scrap & practice with your strippers. If your strippers don't strip
wire that small, practice with a sharp knife, cutting part way through
the insulation all the way around & then flexing the wire at the cut &
pulling on the insulation to remove it.

Charlie

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com




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rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com
Guest





PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:56 pm    Post subject: wiring question Reply with quote

In the aviation world 22g is the minimum....although there is a new wire available that is stronger, 1 gage smaller (24), and carries the same amperage.

After soldering 26~28 gage wires you just touch them they break. We have a connector at work with 28g and soldered! We tried to rework it and the wires broke off about the 3rd time they were moved, it was scrapped. I can get you all the mil spec numbers if it will help and the part number of the new wire if you want it. Although the new wire must have silver in the solder. Oh and in the aviation defense contractor industry, crimping is the way to go.

Scott
RV-8a
--- On Sun, 3/1/09, bert murillo <bertrv6(at)gmail.com> wrote:

Quote:
From: bert murillo <bertrv6(at)gmail.com>
Subject: wiring question
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 2:00 PM

<bertrv6(at)gmail.com>

Hi:

In checking my wiring, now that I am istalling the second
radio, I
found that a couple of the real small wires, of the trim
tab, I think
they
are 24/26 if I remember corectly, are almost completely
broken...that
is why I had problem with the triming...the only thing I
can think of
is
when one, remove the tie wraps, I think because the small
size, the
cutting pliers, nick the wires...

The question is , I have to now splice, these two wires,
add a longer
piece, etc..what is the best thing to do this delicate
task..
solder a piece,,can I use a little larger gauge? I guess
the answer
is not...then to crimp these rascals,, I need all the
suggestions
from all experts....how I am going to strip this
things...and all
that, under the inst. panel.

Your comments and suggestions will be appreciated.


Bert

rv6a

do not archive



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Vanremog(at)aol.com
Guest





PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 5:09 pm    Post subject: wiring question Reply with quote

Scott-

All you have stated is correct, particularly with regard to the reliability of crimping vs soldering on all wires, but there is also a significant difference between 7 strand and 19 strand layup when it comes to needing to use lots of fine wires. This usually only happens when running lots of I/Os inside avionics boxes but 19 strand is far more resistant to breakage than is 7 strand and should be encouraged when using 24AWG wires and smaller.

N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 912hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)


In a message dated 3/1/2009 2:57:08 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com writes:
Quote:
After soldering 26~28 gage wires you just touch them they break. We have a connector at work with 28g and soldered! We tried to rework it and the wires broke off about the 3rd time they were moved, it was scrapped. I can get you all the mil spec numbers if it will help and the part number of the new wire if you want it. Although the new wire must have silver in the solder. Oh and in the aviation defense contractor industry, crimping is the way to go.


Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today.
[quote][b]


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Sully



Joined: 08 Jan 2008
Posts: 9
Location: Euless, TX

PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 7:15 pm    Post subject: Re: wiring question Reply with quote

Bert,
Strip the ends long and fold them back double and then crimp D sub machined pins and sockets with a good quality indent crimper then cover with heat shrink


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RV-7 In-work
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Vanremog(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 9:48 pm    Post subject: wiring question Reply with quote

Everything you wanted to know about mmil-spec contacts and were afraid to ask.

Find someone with a M22520/2-01 Blue colored Daniels Crimper for MIL-C-39029 contacts. The correct positioner is helpful but not essential. The SubD connectors are covered under MIL-C-24308 and use a particular M39029 slash sheet and BIN contact that can be located by going to the Daniels website http://www.dmctools.com/store/browser.asp

N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 912hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)


In a message dated 3/1/2009 7:18:39 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, mr.sully(at)tx.rr.com writes:
Quote:
Strip the ends long and fold them back double and then crimp D sub machined pins and sockets with a good quality indent crimper then cover with heat shrink


Need a job? Find employment help in your area.
[quote][b]


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rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 6:35 am    Post subject: wiring question Reply with quote

Just an FYI

The wire the aircraft defense industry uses is M22759-44-gage-color or M22759-32-gage-color with the -44 being the better of the two. The solder used with this wire needs to be 1.5% silver I beleive, such as Kester 48. This wire is much stronger than standard wire of the same gage and can carry more amperage. We are switching over to this wire now at work and can save a fair amount of weight per aircraft.

Scott
RV-8a

--- On Sun, 3/1/09, Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com> wrote:

Quote:
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: wiring question
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 5:00 PM
Scott-

All you have stated is correct, particularly with regard to
the reliability
of crimping vs soldering on all wires, but there is also a
significant
difference between 7 strand and 19 strand layup when it
comes to needing to use
lots of fine wires. This usually only happens when
running lots of I/Os inside
avionics boxes but 19 strand is far more resistant to
breakage than is 7
strand and should be encouraged when using 24AWG wires and
smaller.


N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 912hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon
Valley)



In a message dated 3/1/2009 2:57:08 P.M. Pacific Standard
Time,
rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com writes:

After soldering 26~28 gage wires you just touch them they
break. We have a
connector at work with 28g and soldered! We tried to
rework it and the wires
broke off about the 3rd time they were moved, it was
scrapped. I can get you
all the mil spec numbers if it will help and the part
number of the new wire
if you want it. Although the new wire must have silver in
the solder. Oh and
in the aviation defense contractor industry, crimping is
the way to go.




**************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax
professional in your
neighborhood today.
(http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004)


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Back to top
john_s_bright(at)yahoo.co
Guest





PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:14 pm    Post subject: wiring question Reply with quote

This is from AS22759 which may be the latest designation of this specification but it has no advice on selection:

SAE-AS22759/32, WIRE, ELECTRICAL, FLUOROPOLYMER-INSULATED,
CROSSLINKED MODIFIED ETFE, LIGHTWEIGHT, TIN-COATED COPPER, 150 °C,
600-VOLT.

SAE-AS22759/44, WIRE, ELECTRICAL, FLUOROPOLYMER-INSULATED,
CROSSLINKED MODIFIED ETFE, LIGHTWEIGHT, SILVER-COATED COPPER,
200 °C, 600-VOLT.

I looked up the melting pints of tin and silver... 232 and 962 C respectively.

There are designators from AS22759/1 to AS22795/92.

I haven't done looked but I imagine AeroElectric Connection has advice.

Thanks,

John Bright
o:757-864-2305
h:757-874-0861
c:757-812-1909
http://www.facebook.com/people/John_Bright/1450601073
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 2, 2009 9:31:19 AM
Subject: Re: wiring question

--> RV-List message posted by: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com (rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com)>
Just an FYI

The wire the aircraft defense industry uses is M22759-44-gage-color or M22759-32-gage-color with the -44 being the better of the two. The solder used with this wire needs to be 1.5% silver I beleive, such as Kester 48. This wire is much stronger than standard wire of the same gage and can carry more amperage. We are switching over to this wire now at work and can save a fair amount of weight per aircraft.

Scott
RV-8a

--- On Sun, 3/1/09, Vanremog(at)aol.com (Vanremog(at)aol.com) <Vanremog(at)aol.com (Vanremog(at)aol.com)> wrote:

Quote:
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com (Vanremog(at)aol.com) <Vanremog(at)aol.com (Vanremog(at)aol.com)>
Subject: Re: wiring question
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 5:00 PM
Scott-

All you have stated is correct, particularly with regard to
the reliability
of crimping vs soldering on all wires, but there is also a
significant
difference between 7 strand and 19 strand layup when it
comes to needing to use
lots of fine wires. This usually only happens when
running lots of I/Os inside
avionics boxes but 19 strand is far more resistant to
breakage than is 7
strand and should be encouraged when using 24AWG wires and
smaller.


N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 912hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon
Valley)

 

In a message dated 3/1/2009 2:57:08 P.M. Pacific Standard
Time,
rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com (rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com) writes:

After soldering 26~28 gage wires you just touch them they
break. We have a
connector at work with 28g and soldered! We tried to
rework it and the wires
broke off  about the 3rd time they were moved, it was
scrapped. I can get you
all the mil spec numbers if it will help and the part
number of the new wire
if you want it. Although the new wire must have silver in
the solder. Oh and
in the aviation defense contractor industry, crimping is
the way to go. 




**************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax
professional in your
neighborhood today.
(http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004)


bsp; --> ht &nbsphref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www=======================
[quote][b]


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