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Page 9-15 Step 7, Trim cable attachment question

 
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john(at)trollingers.com
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 2:29 pm    Post subject: Page 9-15 Step 7, Trim cable attachment question Reply with quote

So I bought the after market trim cable attachment brackets from
Cleavland tools and am ready to assemble. The vans instructions say
to use a LP4-3 to put the pieces together. The aftermarket bracket is
pretty thick and I was thinking about dimpling the WD-415 and then
countersinking the bracket to accept the dimple and then using an
AN-426 and back rivet it together.

Just wanted to get some group feedback on my plan and see what others
using these brackets have done.

thanks,

John Trollinger

Builder 40923


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dmaib@me.com



Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 455
Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida

PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 2:56 pm    Post subject: Page 9-15 Step 7, Trim cable attachment question Reply with quote

Back in December, when I disassembled the airplane for the paint
shop, I decided to attach them with nutplates for the re-assembly. It
was a real bear to get the trim cable panels off with the brackets
riveted on. I believe others have done this, as well.

David Maib
40559
flying

On Mar 6, 2009, at 5:27 PM, John Trollinger wrote:



So I bought the after market trim cable attachment brackets from
Cleavland tools and am ready to assemble. The vans instructions say
to use a LP4-3 to put the pieces together. The aftermarket bracket is
pretty thick and I was thinking about dimpling the WD-415 and then
countersinking the bracket to accept the dimple and then using an
AN-426 and back rivet it together.

Just wanted to get some group feedback on my plan and see what others
using these brackets have done.

thanks,

John Trollinger

Builder 40923


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David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
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Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:09 pm    Post subject: Page 9-15 Step 7, Trim cable attachment question Reply with quote

Most folks are counter sinking the brackets and dimpling the doors like you mentioned. However instead of using rivets, they're using #8 or sometimes #6 screws with a nylon nut.

Having the brackets removable from the doors makes rigging the trim cables much easier too.

Phil



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Kellym



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 4:57 pm    Post subject: Page 9-15 Step 7, Trim cable attachment question Reply with quote

I dimpled the access panels and machine counter sunk the brackets to use
AN 426AD4-5? Don't remember the length...just used rivet gage for
whatever worked on that combination. Comes out nice to have flush rivets
to keep bottom of plate smooth. As mentioned, an alternative would be to
rivet nut plates to the brackets and use countersunk screws to hold them.

John Trollinger wrote:
Quote:


So I bought the after market trim cable attachment brackets from
Cleavland tools and am ready to assemble. The vans instructions say
to use a LP4-3 to put the pieces together. The aftermarket bracket is
pretty thick and I was thinking about dimpling the WD-415 and then
countersinking the bracket to accept the dimple and then using an
AN-426 and back rivet it together.

Just wanted to get some group feedback on my plan and see what others
using these brackets have done.

thanks,

John Trollinger

Builder 40923




--


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Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD
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mckervey(at)charter.net
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 6:09 am    Post subject: Page 9-15 Step 7, Trim cable attachment question Reply with quote

John,

I drilled my aftermarket trim cable attachments with a 6-32 tap drill
,counter sunk the bracket, dimpled the cover and attached them with
stainless steel 6-32 screws.
Much easier to adjust.

Joe
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