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Coolant / Radiator cap

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jeff(at)rmmm.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 11:48 am Post subject: Coolant / Radiator cap

We'll it's time for me to put my plane back together after a long 

annual and a few mods. I have been considering going back to using 

50/50 instead of the Evans. Reading the archives most seem to think it 

runs 10 or so degrees cooler, plus it's less flammable and I can buy it 

anywhere. My question is for Ira or anyone else. Ira here is what you 

said on a previous archive.



The day after SnF, I put in the new 1.2 cap ($29. at CPS, $74 at

Lockwood at SnF, since reduced). During the next taxi run to

the active, all the coolant blew out my overflow tank. Fortunately it 

has

not happened since

1st do I need to change my radiator cap and if so what does CPS stand 

for? In other words where did you buy it for $29.00?  I'm for cheeper 

if possible.



Thanks in advance!

Jeff Roberts.

A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours down for mods & annual.

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garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 12:34 pm Post subject: Coolant / Radiator cap

I think "CPS" is the acronym for California Power  Systems.........a light sport mail order house.

  

 Garry Stout

  

 [quote]   ---

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frans(at)paardnatuurlijk.
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 1:14 pm Post subject: Coolant / Radiator cap

JEFF ROBERTS wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   We'll it's time for me to put my plane back together after a long annual

 and a few mods. I have been considering going back to using 50/50

 instead of the Evans.


	


This is funny. I was just about to start a topic about this.

Probably this spring I'm going to start up the engine for the first

time. I'm about to pour in some coolant in preparation of this rewarding

event. But after reading the archives, I still can't decide what coolant

to use.



My Rotax 914 is factory equipped with a 1.2 bar cap. Can this cap be

used for 50/50 and Evans?



What do people advise? My situation is as follows:



I have an intercooled 914, will be using the high twist Woodcomp

(3000W/3) and have extensively modified the cooling properties of the

cowling:

1) I cut away the entire "duct", and have some sort of a scoop under the

cowling with a diffuser and adjustable flap on the exit. The idea here

is to reduce drag, reduce frontal area, and to improve cooling at the

same time because the air-entrance is now lower on the belly, perfectly

in the prop-wash.

2) I used the circular openings in the front for taxi- and landing

lights. For the cylinder cooling I made two nasa-ducts in the top

cowling, with the air aimed between the front and rear cylinders. The

air openings have a slightly smaller surface than the original openings,

but they are situated in a better position, and the air is aimed

directly to the parts that need cooling.



For these reasons I estimate that my Europa has better cooling

properties than the factory Europa. Most flights will be carried out in

economy cruise on higher altitudes. Although the climate in the

Netherlands isn't very warm, I plant to travel a lot and will visit

warmer countries during the summer season.



As far as I understand from the archieves Evans has less risk of boiling

over, but has less cooling capacity. Since my cooling is hopefully

better than standard, I think that boiling over won't be an issue. So,

there is no advantage of using Evans here, is that right? At the same

time there is no need for the improved cooling capacity of 50/50 either.



If it doesn't really matter, I favor 50/50 because it is readily

available, can replace/add it anywhere during travels if need arises,

and it is more economical.



Concerning the cooling of the Rotax: The local glider club uses a Dimona

with a 914 for towing. That thing has never had any cooling issues,

while it sometimes has to wait very long (student glider pilot is being

teached, or a lot of traffic on the adjacent runway), operates on hot

days, and is performing long full power climbs exclusively. The whole

cooling problem with the Europa appears to be cowling-related. That's

why I modified the cowling, hoping to get the same cooling performance

as the club Dimona. 



-- 

Frans Veldman

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loboloda(at)execulink.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 1:28 pm Post subject: Coolant / Radiator cap

Jeff,



I had an incident where some of the coolant dumped into the overflow  

tank and the tank itself overflowed.

Not sure if it was the same as the problem indicated indicated below.

I thought I had a faulty cap, but the problem was the gasket which  

had moved and was not providing a seal.

Now I check that it is centered each time I replace the cap.



Dave A061

 	  Quote: 	
		  



 We'll it's time for me to put my plane back together after a long  

 annual and a few mods. I have been considering going back to using  

 50/50 instead of the Evans. Reading the archives most seem to think  

 it runs 10 or so degrees cooler, plus it's less flammable and I can  

 buy it anywhere. My question is for Ira or anyone else. Ira here is  

 what you said on a previous archive.



 The day after SnF, I put in the new 1.2 cap ($29. at CPS, $74 at

 Lockwood at SnF, since reduced). During the next taxi run to

 the active, all the coolant blew out my overflow tank. Fortunately  

 it has

 not happened since

 1st do I need to change my radiator cap and if so what does CPS  

 stand for? In other words where did you buy it for $29.00? I'm for  

 cheeper if possible.



 Thanks in advance!

 Jeff Roberts.

 A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours down for mods & annual.

- The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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fklein(at)orcasonline.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 1:35 pm Post subject: Coolant / Radiator cap

On Mar 1, 2009, at 1:12 PM, Frans Veldman wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   1) I cut away the entire "duct", and have some sort of a scoop under  

 the

 cowling with a diffuser and adjustable flap on the exit. The idea here

 is to reduce drag, reduce frontal area, and to improve cooling at the

 same time because the air-entrance is now lower on the belly,  

 perfectly

 in the prop-wash.

 2) I used the circular openings in the front for taxi- and landing

 lights. For the cylinder cooling I made two nasa-ducts in the top

 cowling, with the air aimed between the front and rear cylinders. The

 air openings have a slightly smaller surface than the original  

 openings,

 but they are situated in a better position, and the air is aimed

 directly to the parts that need cooling.


	


Frans...this sounds really interesting...cheers for getting rid of the  

dog house...how bout some photos?



Fred

A194

-- 

This message has been scanned for viruses and

dangerous content by MailScanner, and is

believed to be clean.

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rlborger(at)mac.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 1:52 pm Post subject: Coolant / Radiator cap

Jeff & Dave,



Ditto on the gasket.  Had a similar issue with leaking coolant.  Drove  

us nuts trying to find the source.  Turned out to be the edge of the  

gasket was folded allowing coolant to escape, bubble around the cap,  

then up over the lip and dribble down the side of the cap unit where  

it dripped off the bottom and onto the engine case.  From there it  

sneaked around the case, under various plumbing to the underside where  

it dripped off onto the cowl, ran down and ended up in a puddle on the  

floor.



Tommy finally found where the coolant was coming from and we gave the  

cap a good looking over where we saw the folded gasket.



Check six,

Bob Borger

Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S

http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL

Aircraft Flying!

3705 Lynchburg Dr.

Corinth, TX  76208

Home:  940-497-2123

Cel:  817-992-1117

On Mar 1, 2009, at 15:35, david miller wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 >



 Jeff,



 I had an incident where some of the coolant dumped into the overflow  

 tank and the tank itself overflowed.

 Not sure if it was the same as the problem indicated indicated below.

 I thought I had a faulty cap, but the problem was the gasket which  

 had moved and was not providing a seal.

 Now I check that it is centered each time I replace the cap.



 Dave A061

> We'll it's time for me to put my plane back together after a long  

> annual and a few mods. I have been considering going back to using  

> 50/50 instead of the Evans. Reading the archives most seem to think  

> it runs 10 or so degrees cooler, plus it's less flammable and I can  

> buy it anywhere. My question is for Ira or anyone else. Ira here is  

> what you said on a previous archive.

>

> The day after SnF, I put in the new 1.2 cap ($29. at CPS, $74 at

> Lockwood at SnF, since reduced). During the next taxi run to

> the active, all the coolant blew out my overflow tank. Fortunately  

> it has

> not happened since

> 1st do I need to change my radiator cap and if so what does CPS  

> stand for? In other words where did you buy it for $29.00? I'm for  

> cheeper if possible.

>

> Thanks in advance!

> Jeff Roberts.

> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 176 hours down for mods & annual.

- The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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frans(at)paardnatuurlijk.
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:06 pm Post subject: Coolant / Radiator cap

 	  Quote: 	
		   Frans...this sounds really interesting...cheers for getting rid of the

 dog house...how bout some photos?


	


What I have done is quite similar to what some others have been doing.

It is not really suitable for retrofitting as some substantial cowling

work needs to be done. The dog house starts its shape quite some

distance away on the cowling. I also got rid of the useless bulge for

the exhaust (at least useless for a 914, don't know about the 912).



What I have now is not yet finished, just the raw shapes without filler.

It wouldn't look very nice yet on pictures. But I will make some, to

show what I'm doing. If time permits tomorrow.



-- 

Frans Veldman

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jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.a
Guest

Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 7:11 pm Post subject: Coolant / Radiator cap

Fred



Please tell me how these proposals relate to the XS Firewall kit for 912S 

engine which has the extra frontal hole below the prop which feeds air to an 

Air Guide Hood (which cost me another $700 or so from Rotax).



Are the proposals to avoid my set up or did they arise before the Air Guide 

Hood was available?



JR (Bob) Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz

do not archive

---

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