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Soldering Micro Switches

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longg(at)pjm.com
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Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 11:21 am Post subject: Soldering Micro Switches

I probably don’t have the touch of some of you really experienced soldering folks, but I’m trying to work on a technique for soldering those itsy-bitsy connectors on the  micro-switches. I either touch the switch accidentally and melt the casing or heat up the connectors to the point that solder melts and then I sit there watching the connector sink or break off.   

   

Is there some best combination  of heat / thin solder that works  best for the micro switches and small LED lights that I might try?  

   

I suppose if you have the luxury of throwing your airplane on the workbench and putting the panel in a vice it may not be a problem. Trying to do this in the field holding 3 wires up with one hand and the soldering gun in another is a real pain.  

   

Suggestions appreciated.  

   

Thanks,  

Glenn  

      [quote][b]

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bob(at)bob-white.com
Guest

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 12:45 pm Post subject: Soldering Micro Switches

Hi Glenn,



My suggestion would be to first get the wires attached mechanically so

that you don't have to hold them.  Tin the ends of the wires before

wraping them around the terminal.  This means, flow just a little

solder on the end so the strands will stay together.  You should still

be able to see the individual strands through the solder (don't have a

big glob on there).



Second use a small diameter, 0.032  inch or so, 63/37 tin/lead

solder with a rosin core.  The 63/37 has a lower melting point than

60/40 and when it cools it pretty much all turns solid at once.  The

rosin flux usually does a good job cleaning up any oxidation that would

prevent a good solder joint.  Never use acid flux.



Third hold the soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other.

I used to use my teeth to hold the solder but about 30 years ago or so,

the safety types convinced me it wasn't a good idea.   It helps to

melt just a bit of solder onto the iron.  You get better heat

conduction to the joint through a small amount of liquid solder than

just holding the iron against the wires.  Having done that, apply the

iron to one side of the joint, and solder to the other.  When the solder

flows, remove the solder and heat and let it solidify.  



Fourth practice at the bench until it's working for you.  If at all

possible do the actual wiring at the bench.  It's much easier.



Another tip:   Don't solder laying on your back with the joint above

your face or any other body parts.  You probably wouldn't do it more

than once anyway.  I didn't.



Bob W.



On Mon, 4 May 2009 15:12:40 -0400

<longg(at)pjm.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   I probably don't have the touch of some of you really experienced

 soldering folks, but I'm trying to work on a technique for soldering

 those itsy-bitsy connectors on the  micro-switches. I either touch the

 switch accidentally and melt the casing or heat up the connectors to the

 point that solder melts and then I sit there watching the connector sink

 or break off. 

 

  

 

 Is there some best combination  of heat / thin solder that works  best

 for the micro switches and small LED lights that I might try?

 

  

 

 I suppose if you have the luxury of throwing your airplane on the

 workbench and putting the panel in a vice it may not be a problem.

 Trying to do this in the field holding 3 wires up with one hand and the

 soldering gun in another is a real pain.

 

  

 

 Suggestions appreciated.

 

  

 

 Thanks,

 

 Glenn

 

 


	




-- 

N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com

3.8 Hours Total Time and holding

Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/

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retasker(at)optonline.net
Guest

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 6:31 pm Post subject: Soldering Micro Switches

longg(at)pjm.com (longg(at)pjm.com) wrote:  	  Quote: 	
		                   <![endif]-->       <![endif]-->      

 I suppose if you have the luxury of throwing your airplane on the workbench and putting the panel in a vice it may not be a problem. Trying to do this in the field holding 3 wires up with one hand and the soldering gun in another is a real pain.   

 	
 If you are using a soldering "gun" that is part of your problem.  Get a good, low wattage soldering iron.  It will have a small, high-temperature tip and will make soldering of small connections much easier.

 

 Use 60/40 or 63/37 solder.  This is (at least the 63/37) eutectic solder - which means that it is either liquid or solid - no mushy intermediate state.  Makes getting good solder joints much easier.  Also, get solder that is thin enough.  Unless the joint is very large, 0.025 or 0.032 diameter is plenty.  I even have some 0.015 that I use once in a while for really small joints.

 

 Also, if you are getting up there in age (as I am) get a magnifier so you can see what you are doing.  You would be surprised how much it helps when you can really see the little parts up close    .

 

 Dick

  	  Quote: 	
		  -- 

Please Note: 

No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message.  We do concede, however,

that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.

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longg(at)pjm.com
Guest

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 9:15 am Post subject: Soldering Micro Switches

Dick & Bob,  

   

Thanks for the sound advice. I’m eager to make good on the small stuff.  

   

Glenn  

       

From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard E. Tasker

 Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 10:30 PM

 To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: Soldering Micro Switches  

  

  

   

longg(at)pjm.com (longg(at)pjm.com) wrote:   

 I suppose if you have the luxury of throwing your airplane on the workbench and putting the panel in a vice it may not be a problem. Trying to do this in the field holding 3 wires up with one hand and the soldering gun in another is a real pain.  

If you are using a soldering "gun" that is part of your problem.  Get a good, low wattage soldering iron.  It will have a small, high-temperature tip and will make soldering of small connections much easier.

 

 Use 60/40 or 63/37 solder.  This is (at least the 63/37) eutectic solder - which means that it is either liquid or solid - no mushy intermediate state.  Makes getting good solder joints much easier.  Also, get solder that is thin enough.  Unless the joint is very large, 0.025 or 0.032 diameter is plenty.  I even have some 0.015 that I use once in a while for really small joints.

 

 Also, if you are getting up there in age (as I am) get a magnifier so you can see what you are doing.  You would be surprised how much it helps when you can really see the little parts up close   .

 

 Dick

 

   [quote]-- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message.  We do concede, however,that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.--[b]

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