indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 8:39 am Post subject: Question for the door experts (A followup observation) |
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Monoject 412 curved tip syringe C google and buy them from a dental supply house. At a hooby store they are about a buck a piece. A person can get 50 for about $19.00.
From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Question for the door experts (A followup observation)
Date: Wed C 27 May 2009 21:40:11 -0600
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Ben
A small 10cc hypodermic works well to push thickened epoxy into gaps. I went to the local pharmacy and bought a few along with a few #20 bore needles (I haven’t tried them yet). The pharmacist didn’t bat an eye when I explained what I wanted them for.
Cheers
Les
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: May-27-09 8:46 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Question for the door experts (A followup observation)
Les C
I too ended up with some gaps in the seams of my first door C especially around the window openings. I ended up squeezing more epoxy into the gaps as much as practical. The doors are still very solidly glued together but I was worried about moisture getting into the gaps over time. The thing that got me the most was that the amount of lip left before trimming the window opening is somewhat misleading. You don’t realize how far in you end up trimming the window opening. It does seem like you cut out darn near all the glued surface. The second one I used about 30% more of the epoxy layer when gluing the halves together and spread it out wider on the contact surfaces. That one came out much better.
I ended up inadvertently cutting off one of the alignment tabs (the front one I think) on one of my doors. I got a little wild with the cutoff tool when doing the initial trimming. It worked out OK cause I only did it to one of the halves. I don’t think that any of my window holes actually lined up... maybe one.
-Ben Westfall
#40579 – metal glaze is great!
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday C May 27 C 2009 5:39 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Question for the door experts (A followup observation)
Hi
A couple of weeks ago I ran into a problem with missing / misaligned index holes in my left door halves. Based on Van’s recommendation C I “created” the front index hole by shimming the front so the front door profile was sitting about the same height as the rear. This worked out quite well.
Yesterday C I started assembling the left door. In this case only two of the window index holes matched C the rear index holes were mismatched and of course the front index holes were completely missing. I am glad I had already done one door as I would have been stumped as to what to do otherwise. To a certain extent C I was very C very lucky as the alignment between the door halves and the canopy turned out quite nicely. If the door halves are not aligned against the canopy correctly C you can end up trimming too much of the flange on the bottom the door when fitting the door (especially if working from the top down). In my case I worked from the bottom up and avoided trimming too much off the bottom of the door.
I also had a problem with “gaps” in the seams on the first door. In retrospect I think Van’s plans should specify a much thicker epoxy layer on the bonding surfaces. I did this on the second door with a much better result.
Anyway C these are comments from a f/g neophyte – YMMV
Cheers
Les
#40643 – Look ma C its snowing fiberglass
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: May-14-09 6:38 PM
To: 'rv10-list(at)matronics.com'
Subject: Question for the door experts
Hi
Well today I start on my doors. First I trimmed the door opening to about 1/8” from the scribe lines. Then C as per the plans C I trimmed the door halves and drilled the index holes. Well C the first problem was that the window index holes didn’t align – two were off by ½”. Next I found the forward index hole did not match the hole left open on the forward fuse skin. TRhe door index holes is high by at least a couple of inches compared to the hole in the fuse skin.
Has anyone else run into this problem and if so how did you deal with it? I spoke to Ken Scott at Van’s who mentioned that this was a first for him. I guess I am just lucky.
Cheers
Les
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