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Shell Rotella Full Synthetic

 
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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 6:21 am    Post subject: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

Morning Gang:

Did a very unscientific experiment during my last flight West. Flew that
flight with Shell Rotella Full Synthetic 5W40 motor oil. Wanted to see if
the engineers at Rotex were completely correct in their guidance of running
a semi-synthetic motor oil when operating on 100LL av gas. They indicate
organic oil better suspends lead than full sythetic, so...semi-synthetic is
the way to go.

Both John W and I operated on many previous flights with Valvoline Durablend
Semi-synthetic. After 60 to 75 hours there was always quite a bit of lead
remaining in the oil tank bottom at oil change.

I flew 60+ hours, primarily on 100LL, this last flight. When I pulled the
oil tank apart, I was surprised to see very little lead residue in the
bottom of the tank.

As I said initially, this was not by any means a scientific test, but I am
satisfied the Rotella was as good as or better than suspending lead as
semi-synthetic motor oil.

Rotex engineers also recommend motorcycle oil for 4 strokes because they
have a gear lube additive and no "super slick stuff" to interfere with
operation of the gear box slip clutch. My theory is, Rotella is used in
very heavy duty diesel engines. Most have huge accessory drive gears which
probably have as much or more stress on them as out little 912 gear boxes.
The original 5 speed Getrag transmission in my old Dodge Cummins ran 300,000
miles on 5W30 motor oil, organic. Don't think I am going to have a gear box
problem on my 912.

This is my own idea. Not trying to sell Rotella. Not saying Rotax
engineers are wrong. Not trying to convince anyone else to do what I do.
However, Rotella Full Synthetic is selling in Walmart for around 19.00 a
gal.

My first 912 was an 80 hp. Flew many, many hours on 100LL with it. Always
ran Mobil I full synthetic. This was from 1994-2000, and 1,200+ hours. No
lead problems with this engine, that I know of. Rotax engineers didn't
recognize the lead problem when operating on 100LL and full synthetic oil
back then, as far as I know.

john h


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John Hauck
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lucien



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Location: santa fe, NM

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 6:57 am    Post subject: Re: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

Just for what it's worth, and I've flown many long and ugly sorties into the "oil wars" both on and offline so don't want to do another: But here's my take.

I always go by the weight and service grade (API generally) of an oil rather than nebulous stuff like "additives" that seem never to be specified, etc.

I like to use the highest available API service grade oil in any of my engines, unless there's a specific recommendation. It's always been interesting to me that the Bill and Ted's Excellent motor oil available at the local auto parts places have higher API service grades (up to SM now, I believe) than the motorcycle oils which were at SG last I checked (probably superseded by now).

If one looks at the grading scheme used by the API on their web site, one sees that it's "backwards compatible" in that newer grades still meet all the specs of the older ones but also add new lubricating properties in addition. So if your engine specifies at least grade SG, an SM oil will be acceptable and will usually lubricate better.

At least in my ground vehicles, Bill And Ted's Excellent oils have always given fine service with no operational problems. On my bikes I still used the recommended oils, but I'd not have been surprised of B&T's SM oil worked fine in them just as the SG grades did.

On my 912, I havn't accumulated enough hours on it to track any difference. I've used a couple different oils so far and the mag plug has always come out clean either way at the oil change. I'm now using the Aeroshell stuff since Rotax recommended it and I have a bunch of it in the hangar.

Prior to that I used the valvoline and JD when he owned the plane used Mobile 1. Seems like my motor still runs ok and has good compressions, clean mag plug, etc.
I'd personally not hesitate to go back to the Valvoline if I happened to be out of the Aeroshell at the time.

Don't run enough 100LL yet to check for sludge. I'm not surprised that the synthetics work fine with it, tho....

Thanks for the info, very helpful!

LS


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 10:56 pm    Post subject: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

While I can not comment on the 4 stroke Rotax on rotella as my Kolb is a 2
stroke I did run Rotella 30 in a 1937 Chev for a long time. Only problem was
keeping the oil in, it tended to leak a lot. I had to replace a oil dipper
on that engine and it was the cleanest old car engine I have ever seen.
There was no sign of lead in the sump {crankcase } I was told at the time
that if your engine was in good condition the Rotella was OK but if it was
well used the Rotella would clean all the cabon out and you could end up
with a oil burner. I also know that when we used lead fuels in our cars and
mineral oils the sumps always had large deposits of lead in them on strip
down.This did not happen with the Rotella.
So I would agree with what John H is saying
Downunder
MK111c
---


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Thom Riddle



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
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Location: Buffalo, NY, USA (9G0)

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 2:06 am    Post subject: Re: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

John,

A thought occurred to me in regard to your unscientific test of full synthetic oil vs semi-synthetic you used before. I don't know so I'm just asking the question. Is it possible that Rotax recommends a semi-synthetic oil when using a lot of leaded avgas because it extracts the lead and intentionally deposits it in the bottom of the oil tank? Perhaps that is why they don't recommend the full synthetic when using avgas because it does NOT extract the lead and deposit in the bottom of the tank. Maybe the lead at the bottom of the oil tank is a good thing and it not being there is a bad thing.

This is pure speculation but worth considering maybe?


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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:22 am    Post subject: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

Quote:
A thought occurred to me in regard to your unscientific test of full
synthetic oil vs semi-synthetic you used before. I don't know so I'm just
asking the question. Is it possible that Rotax recommends a semi-synthetic
oil when using a lot of leaded avgas because it extracts the lead and
intentionally deposits it in the bottom of the oil tank? Perhaps that is
why they don't recommend the full synthetic when using avgas because it
does NOT extract the lead and deposit in the bottom of the tank. Maybe the
lead at the bottom of the oil tank is a good thing and it not being there
is a bad thing.

This is pure speculation but worth considering maybe?

--------
Thom Riddle


Thom:

Ideally, we want all the lead suspended in the motor oil so we can drain it
out with the oil at scheduled changes, or sooner. I usually change sooner.

If lead collects in the bottom of the oil tank, it is also collecting in
other parts and pockets of the engine. In extreme conditions lead can block
oil galleries and cause abnormal wear on the engine.

Sludge in an engine is not lead contamination. I don't have any engines
with sludge, except my old antique tractors that were run on nondetergent
oil many years ago. Some of them have an inch or two of sludge on the
bottom of the oil pan. I run Shell Rotella organic oil in everything I have
except the 912, ATV, and dirt bike. These three run on Rotella Synthetic.
All my engines are spotless inside except the old tractors, but they dump
tons of crap out of them every oil change. The Rotella is working on years
of accumulation.

Recently opened up my little Kubota B6100 engine that is pushing 30 years
old. Operated on Rotella, it was clean as a whistle.

For Tony Oldman: The Rotella hasn't increased leakage or oil burning on any
of the old tractors.

Organic oil suspends lead better than synthetic oil. The reason Rotax
recommend semi-synthetic blend when operating on 100LL is to suspend lead
and do a better job at the 912's higher operating temps.

I have operated my 912 on a 50/50 blend of Rotella and 100LL. Results were
no better, if not as good as the results I discovered on this last flight of
60 hours and 300 gals of 100LL. I was pleasantly surprised at how little
lead remained in the bottom of the oil tank. Only a trace.

We have to remember that this test was conducted under long cross country
flight conditions, a lot of flight time in a short number of days. Legs
were generally two hours length, more or less. These conditions are quite
different from local flying. I use mogas flying locally, but don't do much
local flying any more.

I'll continue to run the 912 on Rotella Syn and see what happens.

john h
mkIII


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JetPilot



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Posts: 1246

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:51 am    Post subject: Re: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

aoldman(at)xtra.co.nz wrote:

I was told at the time
that if your engine was in good condition the Rotella was OK but if it was
well used the Rotella would clean all the cabon out and you could end up
with a oil burner. I also know that when we used lead fuels in our cars and
mineral oils the sumps always had large deposits of lead in them on strip
down.This did not happen with the Rotella.
So I would agree with what John H is saying
Downunder
MK111c
---


This is a wives tale. I have been told this buy countless people, but its just not true. Full synthetic oil is better, be it an old car, or a new car. If you want to stop wear and sludge, and give the protection to your engine synthetic oil is the best way to do it. I do not want to wear the engine in my car that has 50,000 miles on it any more than I want to wear out a new engine. ALL my engines get synthetic oil, new or used.

Mike


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:04 am    Post subject: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

John, I don't have a dog in this fight and can only pass along what Eric Tucker told the class at Lockwood. Semi synthetic does a better job of keeping the lead from packing in the gearbox of the 912. It's particularly important on the 912S with the 30 degree spacing of the drive dogs. Even with semi synthetic Rotax recommends pulling the gearbox at 600 hours to inspect for lead packing. Should be simple to make a "degree wheel" to check the 30 degree spacing while you're checking drive friction torque per SI-06-1997 Rev 1. Like I said, just passing along what I learned in class.

Rick

On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 7:21 AM, John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com (jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com)> wrote:
[quote] --> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com (jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com)>



Quote:
A thought occurred to me in regard to your unscientific test of full synthetic oil vs semi-synthetic you used before. I don't know so I'm just asking the question. Is it possible that Rotax recommends a semi-synthetic oil when using a lot of leaded avgas because it extracts the lead and intentionally deposits it in the bottom of the oil tank? Perhaps that is why they don't recommend the full synthetic when using avgas because it does NOT extract the lead and deposit in the bottom of the tank. Maybe the lead at the bottom of the oil tank is a good thing and it not being there is a bad thing.

This is pure speculation but worth considering maybe?

--------
Thom Riddle


Thom:

Ideally, we want all the lead suspended in the motor oil so we can drain it out with the oil at scheduled changes, or sooner.  I usually change sooner.

If lead collects in the bottom of the oil tank, it is also collecting in other parts and pockets of the engine.  In extreme conditions lead can block oil galleries and cause abnormal wear on the engine.

Sludge in an engine is not lead contamination.  I don't have any engines with sludge, except my old antique tractors that were run on nondetergent oil many years ago.  Some of them have an inch or two of sludge on the bottom of the oil pan.  I run Shell Rotella organic oil in everything I have except the 912, ATV, and dirt bike.  These three run on Rotella Synthetic. All my engines are spotless inside except the old tractors, but they dump tons of crap out of them every oil change.  The Rotella is working on years of accumulation.

Recently opened up my little Kubota B6100 engine that is pushing 30 years old.  Operated on Rotella, it was clean as a whistle.

For Tony Oldman:  The Rotella hasn't increased leakage or oil burning on any of the old tractors.

Organic oil suspends lead better than synthetic oil.  The reason Rotax recommend semi-synthetic blend when operating on 100LL is to suspend lead and do a better job at the 912's higher operating temps.

I have operated my 912 on a 50/50 blend of Rotella and 100LL.  Results were no better, if not as good as the results I discovered on this last flight of 60 hours and 300 gals of 100LL.  I was pleasantly surprised at how little lead remained in the bottom of the oil tank.  Only a trace.

We have to remember that this test was conducted under long cross country flight conditions, a lot of flight time in a short number of days.  Legs were generally two hours length, more or less.  These conditions are quite different from local flying.  I use mogas flying locally, but don't do much local flying any more.

I'll continue to run the 912 on Rotella Syn and see what happens.

john h
mkIII

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:07 am    Post subject: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

I do not want to wear the engine in my car that has 50,000 miles on it any
more than I want to wear out a new engine. ALL my engines get synthetic
oil, new or used.
Quote:

Mike


Mike B:

Organic oil has its place. My 1992 Dodge Cummins with 356,000+ miles
pulling a 30' 5th wheel has survived on Shell Rotella dino oil.

Primary reason for running full syn in my 912 is the high operating temps.

john h
mkIII


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:17 am    Post subject: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

Rick G:

I'm also a grad of Eric's 912 course, three times to be exact.

I remember finding lead in the gear box last time I pulled it, two years ago. Going to pull it again real soon to reseal it. Will be a good time to check on lead accumulation then. Also found a lot of lead around the oil pump shaft.

Again, I am only going by what I can see during oil change. No measurements except my own visual perception. Used to get a fair amount of dark grey ugly stuff in the bottom of the oil tank. Last change was a slight amount of off white material. Lots of difference to me.

Again, not trying to convince anyone to use Rotella Syn. Most especially convince anyone to not follow Rotax instructions for operation of their 912. Strictly sharing what I am doing.

john h
mkIII


[quote]
John, I don't have a dog in this fight and can only pass along what Eric Tucker told the class at Lockwood. Semi synthetic does a better job of keeping the lead from packing in the gearbox of the 912. It's particularly important on the 912S with the 30 degree spacing of the drive dogs. Even with semi synthetic Rotax recommends pulling the gearbox at 600 hours to inspect for lead packing. Should be simple to make a "degree wheel" to check the 30 degree spacing while you're checking drive friction torque per SI-06-1997 Rev 1. Like I said, just passing along what I learned in class.

Rick

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:32 am    Post subject: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

John, what national chains carry that oil?BB

On 7, Jul 2009, at 9:14 AM, John Hauck wrote:
Quote:
Rick G:
 
I'm also a grad of Eric's 912 course, three times to be exact.
 
I remember finding lead in the gear box last time I pulled it, two years ago.  Going to pull it again real soon to reseal it.  Will be a good time to check on lead accumulation then.  Also found a lot of lead around the oil pump shaft.
 
Again, I am only going by what I can see during oil change.  No measurements except my own visual perception.  Used to get a fair amount of dark grey ugly stuff in the bottom of the oil tank.  Last change was a slight amount of off white material.  Lots of difference to me.
 
Again, not trying to convince anyone to use Rotella Syn.  Most especially convince anyone to not follow Rotax instructions for operation of their 912.  Strictly sharing what I am doing.
 
john h
mkIII
 
 
Quote:
 
John, I don't have a dog in this fight and can only pass along what Eric Tucker told the class at Lockwood. Semi synthetic does a better job of keeping the lead from packing in the gearbox of the 912. It's particularly important on the 912S with the 30 degree spacing of the drive dogs. Even with semi synthetic Rotax recommends pulling the gearbox at 600 hours to inspect for lead packing. Should be simple to make a "degree wheel" to check the 30 degree spacing while you're checking drive friction torque per SI-06-1997 Rev 1. Like I said, just passing along what I learned in class.

Rick
 
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:51 am    Post subject: Shell Rotella Full Synthetic Reply with quote

Bob B:

Walmart has it for 19.00 a gal.

Another advantage on long cross country flights, I can get the Fram TG3614 oil filter and Shell Rotella Syn at Wally World, or any of the major auto parts houses.

john h
mkIII
Quote:
John, what national chains carry that oil? BB

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