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Voltage problem

 
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fstringham



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 87

PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 2:16 pm    Post subject: Voltage problem Reply with quote

 
I am just about to put my RV7A in the air but....I have one minor problem to solve. The Dynon EMS D-120 is not indicating TRUE voltage output both with the engine in operation or when running on the battery.
 
My electrical architecture is Z13/8 modified to have the B&C 40 amp alternator regulated by LR3C-14. The amp/current  pick off shunt is in location A position as found in the Dynon EMS D-120 install manual page 3.12. When the Master Battery/Main Alternator switch is actuated the Dynon shows 10.8 volt. When the Essential bus is actuated the voltage climbs to 12.8 with or without the Master on.
Every possible connection point has had a continuity check/voltage check completed. We have also followed the B & C LR3C-14 trouble shooting guide which had no neitive results so the LR3C would SEEM to be OK . All grounds have been checked for problems...one found.
 
But all (except using B&C trouble shooting guide)roads seem to lead to a bad LR3C-14.....but Bill at B&C thinks there has to be another problem....................In short every connection up to the regulator are 12.8 volts with the master on but once past the LR3C it read 10.8 at the power pin location #1 on the D-Sub. This indicated two things the problem is at the LR3C and the Dynon D120 is isolated showing it isn't the problem....................
 
We know the altenators ..... both main and aux SD8 are doing there thing because when we have ground run the engine the battery charge has been maintained
 
So where do I check next??????????????????????????????
 
Frank (at) 1L8 ...RV7A... ready to fly?????maybe
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mprather(at)spro.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 4:03 pm    Post subject: Voltage problem Reply with quote

For debugging, have you been using a separate meter from the voltage
information provided by the Dynon? It's not clear to me from your
description of the process..

Asked differently, how do you know what the TRUE voltage is?

As an aside, what I get from the Dynon manual is that the voltage
displayed is that which is found on Pin 1 of the 37 pin harness. From
that, I gather that where you have the shunts wired is of no consequence
when considering what voltage is displayed by the Dynon. It's possible I
missed your point however.

Closing the e-bus feed shorts past the e-bus diode so that you get full
battery voltage to the Dynon (which I gather is connected to the e-bus).
Is 12.8V what is read with the engine running?
Is the LR3C installed in place of the Ford regulator?

Sounds interesting..

Matt-

Quote:


I am just about to put my RV7A in the air but....I have one minor problem
to solve. The Dynon EMS D-120 is not indicating TRUE voltage output both
with the engine in operation or when running on the battery.

My electrical architecture is Z13/8 modified to have the B&C 40 amp
alternator regulated by LR3C-14. The amp/current pick off shunt is in
location A position as found in the Dynon EMS D-120 install manual page
3.12. When the Master Battery/Main Alternator switch is actuated the Dynon
shows 10.8 volt. When the Essential bus is actuated the voltage climbs to
12.8 with or without the Master on.

Every possible connection point has had a continuity check/voltage check
completed. We have also followed the B & C LR3C-14 trouble shooting guide
which had no neitive results so the LR3C would SEEM to be OK . All grounds
have been checked for problems...one found.

But all (except using B&C trouble shooting guide)roads seem to lead to a
bad LR3C-14.....but Bill at B&C thinks there has to be another
problem....................In short every connection up to the regulator
are 12.8 volts with the master on but once past the LR3C it read 10.8 at
the power pin location #1 on the D-Sub. This indicated two things the
problem is at the LR3C and the Dynon D120 is isolated showing it isn't the
problem....................

We know the altenators ..... both main and aux SD8 are doing there thing
because when we have ground run the engine the battery charge has been
maintained

So where do I check next??????????????????????????????

Frank (at) 1L8 ...RV7A... ready to fly?????maybe

_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®.
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fstringham



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 87

PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 4:50 pm    Post subject: Voltage problem Reply with quote

Hi Matt
 
Thanks for the ? and info. I have answered yoou in the body of your query.
 
> Date: Tue C 14 Jul 2009 17:56:59 -0600
Quote:
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Voltage problem
From: mprather(at)spro.net
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com

--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net>

For debugging C have you been using a separate meter from the voltage
information provided by the Dynon? It's not clear to me from your
description of the process..
     YES a DVM
Asked differently C how do you know what the TRUE voltage is?
     SEE Above....
As an aside C what I get from the Dynon manual is that the voltage
displayed is that which is found on Pin 1 of the 37 pin harness. From
that C I gather that where you have the shunts wired is of no consequence
when considering what voltage is displayed by the Dynon. It's possible I
missed your point however. ....Your point is true as to where the voltage is obtained by the Dynon. The shunt shows and + 0r negative amps.

Closing the e-bus feed shorts past the e-bus diode so that you get full
battery voltage to the Dynon (which I gather is connected to the e-bus).
 

Yes C and this has not been checked ...... will be doing that straight away.
Quote:


Is 12.8V what is read with the engine running?
 

Only if the essential bus is closed and the master is opened.....Both while the engine is running and just on battery!!!
Quote:


Is the LR3C installed in place of the Ford regulator?   Yes.
 


Quote:



Sounds interesting..

Matt-

>
>
>
>
>
>
> I am just about to put my RV7A in the air but....I have one minor problem
> to solve. The Dynon EMS D-120 is not indicating TRUE voltage output both
> with the engine in operation or when running on the battery.
>
>
>
> My electrical architecture is Z13/8 modified to have the B&C 40 amp
> alternator regulated by LR3C-14. The amp/current pick off shunt is in
> location A position as found in the Dynon EMS D-120 install manual page
> 3.12. When the Master Battery/Main Alternator switch is actuated the Dynon
> shows 10.8 volt. When the Essential bus is actuated the voltage climbs to
> 12.8 with or without the Master on.
>
> Every possible connection point has had a continuity check/voltage check
> completed. We have also followed the B & C LR3C-14 trouble shooting guide
> which had no neitive results so the LR3C would SEEM to be OK . All grounds
> have been checked for problems...one found.
>
>
>
> But all (except using B&C trouble shooting guide)roads seem to lead to a
> bad LR3C-14.....but Bill at B&C thinks there has to be another
> problem...................In short every connection up to the regulator
> are 12.8 volts with the master on but once past the LR3C it read 10.8 at
> the power pin location #1 on the D-Sub. This indicated two things the
> problem is at the LR3C and the Dynon D120 is isolated showing it isn't the
> problem....................
>
>
>
> We know the altenators ..... both main and aux SD8 are doing there thing
> because when we have ground run the engine the battery charge has been
> maintained
>
>
>
> So where do I check next??????????????????????????????
>
>
>
> Frank (at) 1L8 ...RV7A... ready to fly?????maybe
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®.
> http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_==========




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mprather(at)spro.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 7:59 pm    Post subject: Voltage problem Reply with quote

Frank,

It sounds rather like neither alternator is functioning. Or at least it
sounds like neither of them are getting connected to the bus. It is odd
that you measure 12.8 volts on the bus with the e-bus switch closed - I
would have guessed that would sag down a bit after a bit of starting and
running the engine..

What does the ammeter read with the engine off? On?

What ignition source are you using? Mags, Pmags?

The dynamo wiring is probably the easiest to check. Does your system have
the dynamo disconnect relay? Can you hear that relay close when you flip
the control switch? With the engine off, closing the relay should put 12v
on the red lead to the regulator. Is that happening?

On the main alternator, I'd be snooping around to see if voltage is going
through the field - this can be checked with the engine off. With the DC
master turned on, the regulator should get power through the A terminal,
and should put power on the F terminal - energizing the field. If that's
happening, the alternator should put out power - if it's good.

Is the 5A field breaker good?
Regards,

Matt-


Quote:

Hi Matt

Thanks for the ? and info. I have answered yoou in the body of your query.
> Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 17:56:59 -0600
> Subject: RE: Voltage problem
> From: mprather(at)spro.net
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> <mprather(at)spro.net>
>
> For debugging, have you been using a separate meter from the voltage
> information provided by the Dynon? It's not clear to me from your
> description of the process..
> YES a DVM
> Asked differently, how do you know what the TRUE voltage is?
> SEE Above....
> As an aside, what I get from the Dynon manual is that the voltage
> displayed is that which is found on Pin 1 of the 37 pin harness. From
> that, I gather that where you have the shunts wired is of no consequence
> when considering what voltage is displayed by the Dynon. It's possible I
> missed your point however. ....Your point is true as to where the
> voltage is obtained by the Dynon. The shunt shows and + 0r negative
> amps.
>
> Closing the e-bus feed shorts past the e-bus diode so that you get full
> battery voltage to the Dynon (which I gather is connected to the e-bus).

Yes, and this has not been checked ...... will be doing that straight
away.
> Is 12.8V what is read with the engine running?

Only if the essential bus is closed and the master is opened.....Both
while the engine is running and just on battery!!!
> Is the LR3C installed in place of the Ford regulator? Yes.


>
> Sounds interesting..
>
> Matt-
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I am just about to put my RV7A in the air but....I have one minor
> problem
> > to solve. The Dynon EMS D-120 is not indicating TRUE voltage output
> both
> > with the engine in operation or when running on the battery.
> >
> >
> >
> > My electrical architecture is Z13/8 modified to have the B&C 40 amp
> > alternator regulated by LR3C-14. The amp/current pick off shunt is in
> > location A position as found in the Dynon EMS D-120 install manual
> page
> > 3.12. When the Master Battery/Main Alternator switch is actuated the
> Dynon
> > shows 10.8 volt. When the Essential bus is actuated the voltage climbs
> to
> > 12.8 with or without the Master on.
> >
> > Every possible connection point has had a continuity check/voltage
> check
> > completed. We have also followed the B & C LR3C-14 trouble shooting
> guide
> > which had no neitive results so the LR3C would SEEM to be OK . All
> grounds
> > have been checked for problems...one found.
> >
> >
> >
> > But all (except using B&C trouble shooting guide)roads seem to lead to
> a
> > bad LR3C-14.....but Bill at B&C thinks there has to be another
> > problem....................In short every connection up to the
> regulator
> > are 12.8 volts with the master on but once past the LR3C it read 10.8
> at
> > the power pin location #1 on the D-Sub. This indicated two things the
> > problem is at the LR3C and the Dynon D120 is isolated showing it isn't
> the
> > problem....................
> >
> >
> >
> > We know the altenators ..... both main and aux SD8 are doing there
> thing
> > because when we have ground run the engine the battery charge has been
> > maintained
> >
> >
> >
> > So where do I check next??????????????????????????????
> >
> >
> >
> > Frank (at) 1L8 ...RV7A... ready to fly?????maybe
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®.
> > http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd_062009
>
============
============
============
============
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live™: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009


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