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glass fuses

 
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jrlark



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 72

PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 6:23 pm    Post subject: glass fuses Reply with quote

That is really what you should be using (is ATO blade type fuses) over the
Quote:
glass fuses. From our experience, using glass fuses has many negatives and
they aren't something we'd really recommend for airplanes anymore.

Bob> Absolutely! These have fragile internal connections at
the ends of the fusible links . . . they also used large
area, low pressure connections in their holders. Not
gas-tight.

Hi all: 1st time posting to this list.

Years ago I owned a "75 Celica GT that had an electric fuel pump. The car kept quitting for no apparent reason (usually when my girlfriend drove it). Ended up my favorite auto mechanic found the fuse end cap was loose that fed the fuel pump. There is no way I would use glass fuses for anything in an aircraft.

Regards

Rick Lark
Southampton, Ont
RV10
#40956
[quote][b]


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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 7:20 am    Post subject: glass fuses Reply with quote

At 09:06 PM 7/15/2009, you wrote:
Quote:
That is really what you should be using (is ATO blade type fuses) over the
>glass fuses. From our experience, using glass fuses has many negatives and
>they aren't something we'd really recommend for airplanes anymore.

Bob> Absolutely! These have fragile internal connections at
the ends of the fusible links . . . they also used large
area, low pressure connections in their holders. Not
gas-tight.

Hi all: 1st time posting to this list.

Welcome aboard sir!

Quote:

Years ago I owned a "75 Celica GT that had an electric fuel pump. The car kept quitting for no apparent reason (usually when my girlfriend drove it). Ended up my favorite auto mechanic found the fuse end cap was loose that fed the fuel pump. There is no way I would use glass fuses for anything in an aircraft.

Hmmm . . . that too. I've seen those critters get
'unhooked' inside on several occasions myself. Those
little two-legged plastic critters may look cheesy
but they're the culmination of a century of lessons
learned and recipes for success with very long
field histories.


Bob . . .

---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------

[quote][b]


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ekells(at)sympatico.ca
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:15 am    Post subject: glass fuses Reply with quote

Rich and others:

Actually. Rick I ended up deciding there was ONE application for an in-line "glass" fuse. That is the always LIVE when the Master Switch is ON. I put my only in-line glass fuse immediately behind the top of the firewall. It's hard to replace - but the hot wire is only several inches long - with no chance to rub anything.

Ernest Kells RV-9A
[quote] ---


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Bob McC



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 258
Location: Toronto, ON

PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 7:51 pm    Post subject: glass fuses Reply with quote

Ernest;

Why an inline “glass” fuse???? The ATO style fuse is a much better choice with its one piece design, high pressure contacts etc. All the same reasons that the automotive world went blade style to replace the “old technology” “glass” fuses. No soldered end caps to come loose, no low pressure contacts to corrode and fail. ATO/ATC is a much more reliable choice.

This holder is even waterproof. Good for 30A. http://tinyurl.com/l4eaae Similar holders are available for the Maxi series as well if you require higher ratings.

Bob McC


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest Kells
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:04 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: glass fuses


Rich and others:



Actually. Rick I ended up deciding there was ONE application for an in-line "glass" fuse. That is the always LIVE when the Master Switch is ON. I put my only in-line glass fuse immediately behind the top of the firewall. It's hard to replace - but the hot wire is only several inches long - with no chance to rub anything.



Ernest Kells RV-9A
[quote]
---


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Bob McC
Falco #908
(just starting)
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ekells(at)sympatico.ca
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 2:55 pm    Post subject: glass fuses Reply with quote

Bob:

Please reread my post. I said that I have only ONE glass fuse - all others are ATO fuses - with fuse busses. I stated that there is only ONE case whereby the glass fuse is justified - in my opinion. I still believe it - and I have given away my in-line fuse holders and all of the glass fuses.
Ernest Kells
[quote]
Ernest;

Why an inline “glass” fuse???? The ATO style fuse is a much better choice with its one piece design, high pressure contacts etc. All the same reasons that the automotive world went blade style to replace the “old technology” “glass” fuses. No soldered end caps to come loose, no low pressure contacts to corrode and fail. ATO/ATC is a much more reliable choice.

This holder is even waterproof. Good for 30A. http://tinyurl.com/l4eaae Similar holders are available for the Maxi series as well if you require higher ratings.

Bob McC


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest Kells
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:04 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: glass fuses


Rich and others:



Actually. Rick I ended up deciding there was ONE application for an in-line "glass" fuse. That is the always LIVE when the Master Switch is ON. I put my only in-line glass fuse immediately behind the top of the firewall. It's hard to replace - but the hot wire is only several inches long - with no chance to rub anything.



Ernest Kells RV-9A
[b]


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Bob McC



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 258
Location: Toronto, ON

PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:11 pm    Post subject: glass fuses Reply with quote

Ernest;

I did originally read your post carefully and still wonder why you would retain the “ONE” glass fuse. Why not use an ATO here as well?? That was the point of my post, not that you didn’t use ATO for all others, just why retain the single glass one when you are obviously aware of the superiority of the ATO style? Is the justification that it’s already there and hard to replace?? Thus the most difficult to access fuse is also the least reliable and most likely to fail?? Not meaning to be critical, just not understanding the logic.

Bob McC


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest Kells
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 6:45 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: glass fuses


Bob:



Please reread my post. I said that I have only ONE glass fuse - all others are ATO fuses - with fuse busses. I stated that there is only ONE case whereby the glass fuse is justified - in my opinion. I still believe it - and I have given away my in-line fuse holders and all of the glass fuses.
Ernest Kells
Quote:

Ernest;

Why an inline “glass” fuse???? The ATO style fuse is a much better choice with its one piece design, high pressure contacts etc. All the same reasons that the automotive world went blade style to replace the “old technology” “glass” fuses. No soldered end caps to come loose, no low pressure contacts to corrode and fail. ATO/ATC is a much more reliable choice.

This holder is even waterproof. Good for 30A. http://tinyurl.com/l4eaae Similar holders are available for the Maxi series as well if you require higher ratings.

Bob McC


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest Kells
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:04 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: glass fuses


Rich and others:



Actually. Rick I ended up deciding there was ONE application for an in-line "glass" fuse. That is the always LIVE when the Master Switch is ON. I put my only in-line glass fuse immediately behind the top of the firewall. It's hard to replace - but the hot wire is only several inches long - with no chance to rub anything.



Ernest Kells RV-9A

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[quote][b]


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Bob McC
Falco #908
(just starting)
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ekells(at)sympatico.ca
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 5:13 pm    Post subject: glass fuses Reply with quote

Bob: I understand our differences. I am using Bob's system, using fuse blocks. My system is completely installed using his approach. I use four of his B & C fuse blocks (10 sockets each). It's great. However, the "live" circuit for the Ignition is an exception. It requires "close" circuit protection. I did not want to run the hot circuit to a fuse block near the instrument panel. Any change could be problematic. What if I removed the instrument panel??? I just wanted NUTTIN affecting this hot circuit. I looked at the in-line fuse holder installed very close to the battery as a conservitive situation. I think that it is totally safe. I don't know anything safer (I am electronics challenged).
[quote]
Ernest; I did originally read your post carefully and still wonder why you would retain the “ONE” glass fuse. Why not use an ATO here as well?? That was the point of my post, not that you didn’t use ATO for all others, just why retain the single glass one when you are obviously aware of the superiority of the ATO style? Is the justification that it’s already there and hard to replace?? Thus the most difficult to access fuse is also the least reliable and most likely to fail?? Not meaning to be critical, just not understanding the logic.
Bob McC


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest Kells


Bob: Please reread my post. I said that I have only ONE glass fuse - all others are ATO fuses - with fuse busses. I stated that there is only ONE case whereby the glass fuse is justified - in my opinion. I still believe it - and I have given away my in-line fuse holders and all of the glass fuses.
Ernest Kells
Quote:

Ernest;

Why an inline “glass” fuse???? The ATO style fuse is a much better choice with its one piece design, high pressure contacts etc. All the same reasons that the automotive world went blade style to replace the “old technology” “glass” fuses. No soldered end caps to come loose, no low pressure contacts to corrode and fail. ATO/ATC is a much more reliable choice.

This holder is even waterproof. Good for 30A. http://tinyurl.com/l4eaae Similar holders are available for the Maxi series as well if you require higher ratings.

Bob McC


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest Kells
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:04 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: glass fuses


Rich and others:



Actually. Rick I ended up deciding there was ONE application for an in-line "glass" fuse. That is the always LIVE when the Master Switch is ON. I put my only in-line glass fuse immediately behind the top of the firewall. It's hard to replace - but the hot wire is only several inches long - with no chance to rub anything.



Ernest Kells RV-9A

  - The AeroElectric-List Email Forum ---> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
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tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 7:21 pm    Post subject: glass fuses Reply with quote

I think you guys are missing each others point. You could have your inline fuse “inline” anywhere you want it and still use an ATO. They make inline ATO holders. http://tinyurl.com/lcvcjq
HTH, Tim Andres


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest Kells
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 6:12 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: glass fuses


Bob: I understand our differences. I am using Bob's system, using fuse blocks. My system is completely installed using his approach. I use four of his B & C fuse blocks (10 sockets each). It's great. However, the "live" circuit for the Ignition is an exception. It requires "close" circuit protection. I did not want to run the hot circuit to a fuse block near the instrument panel. Any change could be problematic. What if I removed the instrument panel??? I just wanted NUTTIN affecting this hot circuit. I looked at the in-line fuse holder installed very close to the battery as a conservitive situation. I think that it is totally safe. I don't know anything safer (I am electronics challenged).
Quote:

Ernest;I did originally read your post carefully and still wonder why you would retain the “ONE” glass fuse. Why not use an ATO here as well?? That was the point of my post, not that you didn’t use ATO for all others, just why retain the single glass one when you are obviously aware of the superiority of the ATO style? Is the justification that it’s already there and hard to replace?? Thus the most difficult to access fuse is also the least reliable and most likely to fail?? Not meaning to be critical, just not understanding the logic.
Bob McC


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest Kells

Bob: Please reread my post. I said that I have only ONE glass fuse - all others are ATO fuses - with fuse busses. I stated that there is only ONE case whereby the glass fuse is justified - in my opinion. I still believe it - and I have given away my in-line fuse holders and all of the glass fuses.
Ernest Kells
Quote:

Ernest;

Why an inline “glass” fuse???? The ATO style fuse is a much better choice with its one piece design, high pressure contacts etc. All the same reasons that the automotive world went blade style to replace the “old technology” “glass” fuses. No soldered end caps to come loose, no low pressure contacts to corrode and fail. ATO/ATC is a much more reliable choice.

This holder is even waterproof. Good for 30A. http://tinyurl.com/l4eaae Similar holders are available for the Maxi series as well if you require higher ratings.

Bob McC


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest Kells
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:04 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: glass fuses


Rich and others:



Actually. Rick I ended up deciding there was ONE application for an in-line "glass" fuse. That is the always LIVE when the Master Switch is ON. I put my only in-line glass fuse immediately behind the top of the firewall. It's hard to replace - but the hot wire is only several inches long - with no chance to rub anything.



Ernest Kells RV-9A

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 270.13.19/2245 - Release Date: 07/18/09 05:57:00 [quote][b]


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dgolden(at)golden-consult
Guest





PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 3:42 pm    Post subject: glass fuses Reply with quote

Tim Andres wrote:
Quote:
I think you guys are missing each others point. You could have your
inline fuse “inline” anywhere you want it and still use an ATO. They
make inline ATO holders. *http://tinyurl.com/lcvcjq*

I'd like to add that I have had (on my 1976 GMC Motorhome) 2 circuits
that were added during the 90's or early 20's fail. Both using inline
glass fuse holders (one under the dash and another behind the remote
generator control panel). In both cases, the fuse holder actually failed
dropping the fuses out of the holder.

Just another data point and maybe the fuse holders were inferior quality
to what you plan to use, but I wouldn't do it.

Dennis
--
Dennis Golden
Golden Consulting Services, Inc.


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