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riffelj
Joined: 20 Apr 2009 Posts: 14
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Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 5:13 pm Post subject: Cowl Ideas? |
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I've got 80 hrs on my RV7A - and I've come to Hate my cowl.
I followed the plans and put hinge fasteners on the firewall and where the top/bottom clam halfs meet. The firewall hinges are fine. But the top/bottom clam halves hinges just aren't cutting the mustard. Getting the clam halfs to mate seems to require a large unsightly seam - so the top/bottom hinge teeth can move in/out as necessary to insert the pin. The hinge teeth seem to bend off-center at the slightest bump. When I try to bend them back into line, the hinge material fatigues. I'm also worried that the hinges pins will vibrate and chafe the paint if I get the seam "tight" enough to look good. (Thank goodness I'm still waiting on the paint shop and can change the design).
Anyone out there redesigned the top/bottom clam half fastening design with different fasteners - and happy with the result? (Pictures would be helpful)
Thanks,
"Jerry"
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rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 6:07 pm Post subject: Cowl Ideas? |
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Where are you located?
You did use the smaller dia hinge pin right?
Scott
RV-8a
--- On Fri, 8/7/09, J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Quote: |
From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Cowl Ideas?
To: "rv-list" <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 6:12 PM
I've got 80 hrs on my RV7A - and I've come to Hate my cowl.
I followed the plans and put hinge fasteners on the firewall and where the top/bottom clam halfs meet. The firewall hinges are fine. But the top/bottom clam halves hinges just aren't cutting the mustard. Getting the clam halfs to mate seems to require a large unsightly seam - so the top/bottom hinge teeth can move in/out as necessary to insert the pin. The hinge teeth seem to bend off-center at the slightest bump. When I try to bend them back into line, the hinge material fatigues. I'm also worried that the hinges pins will vibrate and chafe the paint if I get the seam "tight" enough to look good. (Thank goodness I'm still waiting on the paint shop and can change the design).
Anyone out there redesigned the top/bottom clam half fastening design with different fasteners - and happy with the result? (Pictures would be helpful)
Thanks,
"Jerry"
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[quote][b]
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wdleonard(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 9:18 am Post subject: Cowl Ideas? |
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Jerry,
I found out the hard way that the trick to making the hinges work (for me) is to make the centerline of the hinge ABOVE the center of the crack between halves. In other words, with the lower cowl mounted the hinge is proud, with the fiberglass edge being flush with notches in the the hinge. On the upper half, the fiberglass extends down over the entire hinge to mate with the lower fiberglass after the cowl is in place. You only have to do this on ONE side. That side then becomes the second side to join when installing the cowl. You have to sort of peel it into place and the hinges come together with the upper hinge approaching from the side instead of the top.
To retrofit, I had to trim down the fiberglass on the lower cowl with a drummel, then build it up on the upper cowl with flox. May have been easier to remove hinge, fill holes, then install new hinge.
I like the hinges, but lots of people switch to fasteners and that seems to work fine. Takes a little longer to remove and repalce the cowl and adds at least 5 kts worth of drag
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On Fri, Aug 7, 2009 at 6:12 PM, J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com (riffeljl(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
Quote: | I've got 80 hrs on my RV7A - and I've come to Hate my cowl.
I followed the plans and put hinge fasteners on the firewall and where the top/bottom clam halfs meet. The firewall hinges are fine. But the top/bottom clam halves hinges just aren't cutting the mustard. Getting the clam halfs to mate seems to require a large unsightly seam - so the top/bottom hinge teeth can move in/out as necessary to insert the pin. The hinge teeth seem to bend off-center at the slightest bump. When I try to bend them back into line, the hinge material fatigues. I'm also worried that the hinges pins will vibrate and chafe the paint if I get the seam "tight" enough to look good. (Thank goodness I'm still waiting on the paint shop and can change the design).
Anyone out there redesigned the top/bottom clam half fastening design with different fasteners - and happy with the result? (Pictures would be helpful)
Thanks,
"Jerry"
Quote: |
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[quote][b]
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martin(at)gbonline.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 10:10 am Post subject: Cowl Ideas? |
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Forget piano hinges and wires, they are a pain in the butt.
I used SS camlock fasteners and adjustable receptacles from SKYBOLT FASTENER from Apopka Florida. They are easy to install,, and fit tighter , also removal and attaching the cowl is quick, easy and positive. I now have over 3000 hours on my RV8 and the cowl fits just as good as when it was installed. Good luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
[quote] ---
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robin1(at)mrmoisture.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 4:39 pm Post subject: Cowl Ideas? |
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I strongly concur with Dick. I use the Skybolt fasteners on my RV-10 cowl and they work great. Plus they give that big iron look to your build. There is a downside in that they are expensive and heavy. II think my -10 ran close to $400. individually they don’t seem too heavy but when the box arrives and you are holing all the parts they do add heft.
As an alternative on two of my RV’s instead of the cam lock style we used #8 SS screws and tinnerman washers. The look is similar but the cost is nominal (few cents a screw/washer) the upside is they can be replaced just about anywhere. I love the Skybolt system but plan to use the #8 SS screws and tinnerman washers on my “budget” 8A coming next.
Robin
Skybolts:
[img]cid:image003.jpg(at)01CA1917.EA6D6320[/img]
#8 SS screws and tinnerman washers
[img]cid:image004.png(at)01CA1917.9A3AAFC0[/img]
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Martin
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 11:12 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Cowl Ideas?
Forget piano hinges and wires, they are a pain in the butt.
I used SS camlock fasteners and adjustable receptacles from SKYBOLT FASTENER from Apopka Florida. They are easy to install,, and fit tighter , also removal and attaching the cowl is quick, easy and positive. I now have over 3000 hours on my RV8 and the cowl fits just as good as when it was installed. Good luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
Quote: |
----- Original Message -----
From: J Riffel (riffeljl(at)gmail.com)
To: rv-list (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 8:12 PM
Subject: Cowl Ideas?
I've got 80 hrs on my RV7A - and I've come to Hate my cowl.
I followed the plans and put hinge fasteners on the firewall and where the top/bottom clam halfs meet. The firewall hinges are fine. But the top/bottom clam halves hinges just aren't cutting the mustard. Getting the clam halfs to mate seems to require a large unsightly seam - so the top/bottom hinge teeth can move in/out as necessary to insert the pin. The hinge teeth seem to bend off-center at the slightest bump. When I try to bend them back into line, the hinge material fatigues. I'm also worried that the hinges pins will vibrate and chafe the paint if I get the seam "tight" enough to look good. (Thank goodness I'm still waiting on the paint shop and can change the design).
Anyone out there redesigned the top/bottom clam half fastening design with different fasteners - and happy with the result? (Pictures would be helpful)
Thanks,
"Jerry"
Quote: | href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c | | 0123456789 Quote: | href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List | 0 Quote: | href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List | 1 Quote: | href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List | 2 Quote: | href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List | 3 Quote: | href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List | 4
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Larry Bowen
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 802 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 5:12 pm Post subject: Cowl Ideas? |
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On the RV-8, I was pretty happy with my hinges everywhere, except
skybolt fasteners at the firewall on the top cowl. The horizontal
pins where inserted from the cockpit. My only complaint was a little
bit of pucker between the skybolt's during flight. I'll probably
repeat this arrangement on the RV-7.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Sun, Aug 9, 2009 at 8:36 PM, Robin Marks<robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> wrote:
[quote] I strongly concur with Dick. I use the Skybolt fasteners on my RV-10 cowl
and they work great. Plus they give that big iron look to your build. There
is a downside in that they are expensive and heavy. II think my -10 ran
close to $400. individually they don’t seem too heavy but when the box
arrives and you are holing all the parts they do add heft.
As an alternative on two of my RV’s instead of the cam lock style we used #8
SS screws and tinnerman washers. The look is similar but the cost is nominal
(few cents a screw/washer) the upside is they can be replaced just about
anywhere. I love the Skybolt system but plan to use the #8 SS screws and
tinnerman washers on my “budget” 8A coming next.
Robin
Skybolts:
#8 SS screws and tinnerman washers
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Martin
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 11:12 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Cowl Ideas?
Forget piano hinges and wires, they are a pain in the butt.
I used SS camlock fasteners and adjustable receptacles from SKYBOLT FASTENER
from Apopka Florida. They are easy to install,, and fit tighter , also
removal and attaching the cowl is quick, easy and positive. I now have over
3000 hours on my RV8 and the cowl fits just as good as when it was
installed. Good luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
---
| - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
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_________________ Larry Bowen
RV-8 SOLD,
RV-7QB in progress... |
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kboatright1(at)comcast.ne Guest
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Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 5:40 pm Post subject: Cowl Ideas? |
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Here's another vote for screws and nutplates for the top and bottom of the cowl/firewall join. I used #6's on my RV-6 and have been very pleased for the last 8+ years. I used the stock hinges on the sides of the cowl/firewall join and on the mating line for the top and bottom cowl.
Given my experience, I'd do it the same way if I was a repeat offender.
Kyle Boatright
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Dale Ensing
Joined: 11 Jan 2006 Posts: 571 Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 4:20 am Post subject: Cowl Ideas? |
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Just for another point of reference.......
I am very happy with the hinges and wires on my 6A. I like the clean look.
The one concession I made, at other's suggestions, was SS screws along the
bottom at the firewall because of the exhaust impulses.. Have had no hinge
eye breaks. Pins are easy and quick to remove/install. I do apply a film of
Molykote 557 lubricant (Boelube will also do nicely) to the wire pins when I
put them in.
Dale
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_________________ Dale Ensing
RV-6A
Aero Plantation
Weddington NC |
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ghinman(at)mts.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:23 am Post subject: Cowl Ideas? |
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I have to add my 2c worth on the use of piano hinges for
the cowl.
I used hinges and they work great.Much neater than fasteners.
Even on the top firewall location.
I used a mixture of fiberglass resin and flocked cotton
instead of
the aluminum shims that Van's supplies.This made the hinges line up better.
I can get the large pins in the top firewall no trouble at all.
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
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