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Gaps between Weld-On 10 and Window

 
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jeff(at)westcottpress.com
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 4:35 pm    Post subject: Gaps between Weld-On 10 and Window Reply with quote

I took the plunge yesterday and bonded the window in to the left side
door. I peeled the tape off today and found significant gaps between
the weld-on and the window... particularly along the curved vertical
edges. In hindsight, it was obviously too hot to be doing this work
yesterday... my shop is at the base of the mountains near JPL where
the fires have been raging for the past few days and, though it is air
conditioned, was probably about 85% inside. The weld-on just set up
too quickly.

I'm thinking of drilling a few small holes and injecting epoxy in to
fill the gaps. Has anyone gone down this road before? Is there a
better way to fix this, shy of replacing the whole thing?

Jeff Carpenter
40304
Singin those Weld-on 10 blues...


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Ron B.



Joined: 17 Feb 2009
Posts: 103
Location: Nova Scotia

PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 4:19 am    Post subject: Re: Gaps between Weld-On 10 and Window Reply with quote

I had acceptable bonding on my windscreen but knew I could inject some epoxy to fill the space without drilling , so I went ahead and filled the gap. Worked well for me. I had used weld-on for the initial bonding, but had none uncured left. I doubt I would drill the plexy but would drill a small hole in the cabin epoxy and use a syringe.
Ron


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johngoodman



Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 12:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Gaps between Weld-On 10 and Window Reply with quote

I had the same problem. I filled the gaps with epoxy in a syringe. Once the outside fiberglass is done, nobody will ever know....
John


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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:43 am    Post subject: Gaps between Weld-On 10 and Window Reply with quote

Hi Jeff C
 
Don't know if anyone responded to your email. Things to test before going your route. Does fresh Weld On 10 bond to previously cured Weld On 10. Also C you are going to lay fiberglass over the outside gap between cabin top and window. You might consider channeling around this area so that you can use say laminations of 9 oz satin weave as apposed to a single lamination. Also consider how you will finish the the inside junction between cabin and window. I went the cheap route and caulked the gap in with fuel tank sealant by mixing it and then putting it in a large syringe and going around the channel/gap/ledge. It is a little difficult to get a nice result and cleanup will need to be done with alcohol.
 
Also know that if you use this sealant C you will not be able to work inside the plane say two weeks as it will stink as it is curing. A shop with great ventilation would be a different story. I used this sealant based on bonding characteristic and color. My inside cabin top is black/dark grey Zolatone.
 
Just food for thought
 
JOhn
 
[quote] From: jeff(at)westcottpress.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Gaps between Weld-On 10 and Window
Date: Sat C 29 Aug 2009 17:20:57 -0700

--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>

I took the plunge yesterday and bonded the window in to the left side
door. I peeled the tape off today and found significant gaps between
the weld-on and the window... particularly along the curved vertical
edges. In hindsight C it was obviously too hot to be doing this work
yesterday... my shop is at the base of the mountains near JPL where
the fires have been raging for the past few days and C though it is air
conditioned C was probably about 85% inside. The weld-on just set up
too quickly.

I'm thinking of drilling a few small holes and injecting epoxy in to
fill the gaps. Has anyone gone down this road before? Is there a
better way to fix this C shy of replacing the whole thing?

Jeff Carpenter
40304
Singin those Weld-on 10 blues...

<===================



Quote:
[b]


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