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701/rotax battery cables

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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 9:17 am Post subject: 701/rotax battery cables

I'm planning the electrical system on my 701 with a Rotax 912, no BRS. My

understanding is that the conventional setup for this configuration is to

place the battery behind the seats. I'm wondering about the gauge of the

cables that run up to the engine. My questions are:



- what gauge cable? The diagrams in the AeroElectric book call out 4 gauge.

Anyone using less, say 6 gauge? I could save a little weight here.



- dedicated ground cable or ground through the airframe? Again looking to

save weight.



-- Craig

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lgold(at)quantum-associat
Guest

Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 10:40 am Post subject: 701/rotax battery cables

Craig,

Use 4 gauge welding cable since its more flexible. Don't skimp on cable size

unless you want problems starting or the potential of a fire! If you want to

get technical you can figure out how much heat and voltage loss you are

willing to accept. This depends upon the full-load current used by the

starter and the size and length of the cable; but I would just stick with

what we know works. There are better ways of saving weigh without risk (like

not using the heavy door handle/locks provided in my kit by Zenith). 

Les



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craig(at)craigandjean.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 10:48 am Post subject: 701/rotax battery cables

Thanks Les. So do you have one or two cables (plus and ground) in your 701?



-- Craig



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lgold(at)quantum-associat
Guest

Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:17 pm Post subject: 701/rotax battery cables

I used two cables from the battery Craig. I have found that the causes of

most electrical problems with instruments and starting is a result of a bad

ground... So I added a really good ground buss on the firewall. I attached a

4-gauge cable from the battery to the ground buss and also from this buss to

the engine block. All my grounds terminate at this buss except for the ones

from the fuel tanks, which I grounded locally. This is also a good way to

eliminate radio static. I purchased the ground buss and most of my

electrical parts from B&C (see http://www.bandc.biz/search.aspx?find=ground)

but I'm certain you could buy a ground buss elsewhere. 

It's also very important to both crimp and solder the 4-gauge wire

terminals. A bad electrical connection here can heat up enough to melt stuff

and start a fire.

Les  



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NYTerminat(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:16 pm Post subject: 701/rotax battery cables

Craig,

 I did the exact same as Les, except just crimped my connections. Works  great no problems, 180 hrs

  

 Bob Spudis

 N701ZX/912S

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

 In a message dated 9/10/2009 9:17:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  lgold(at)quantum-associates.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  used two    cables from the battery Craig. I have found that the causes of

most    electrical problems with instruments and starting is a result of a    bad

ground... So I added a really good ground buss on the firewall. I    attached a

4-gauge cable from the battery to the ground buss and also from    this buss to

the engine block. All my grounds terminate at this buss except    for the ones

from the fuel tanks, which I grounded locally. This is also a    good way to

eliminate radio static. I purchased the ground buss and most of    my

electrical parts from B&C (see    http://www.bandc.biz/search.aspx?find=ground)

but I'm certain you could buy    a ground buss elsewhere. 

It's also very important to both crimp and solder    the 4-gauge wire

terminals. A bad electrical connection here can heat up    enough to melt stuff

and start a fire.

Les   

	


 

  

  [quote][b]

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craig(at)craigandjean.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:17 pm Post subject: 701/rotax battery cables

Thanks, I have and will use the B&C ground block.



-- Craig



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