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Grove Gear Model II

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bughntr(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 5:00 pm Post subject: Grove Gear Model II

I am planning on installing grove gear on my model  II. I will need to add the float mounting bracket and was looking for any help  on how to weld this with minimal fabric damage. Any help would be  appreciated.

  

 Bryan Quinton

 Model II 582

   [quote][b]

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Tom Jones

Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 752
Location: Ellensburg, WA

Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 7:39 am Post subject: Re: Grove Gear Model II

 	  Quote: 	
		  I am planning on installing grove gear on my model II. I will need to add the float mounting bracket and was looking for any help on how to weld this with minimal fabric damage. Any help would be appreciated.

	




Bryan, if the finish is Poly tone it is fairly easy to cut out a section of fabric and replace with new.  If you have worked with fabric before it will be easy, if you haven't, someone helping  that has will be a must and use the repair instructions in the poly fiber manual.



I would use a straight edge and razor blade to cut out a section spanning from the leading edge of the stock front gear mount to about 8 inches forward of the new mount to be welded in.  From the bottom of the door frame to about 8 inches in on the belly.



To repair the fabric, poly tack one new piece to the bottom door frame and to the old fabric down and under the belly.  No poly tack or wraping around the bottom longeron tube.  When you shrink the new piece it will pull the old fabric tight and back into place.

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_________________
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA

napierm(at)cisco.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 6:17 am Post subject: Grove Gear Model II

Bryan,



Another method is to "peel" the fabric.  If the bottom fabric was put on

1st and then the side you are in luck.  You can peel and then re-glue

the fabric and it will look like it had never been touched.  I've done a

couple of repairs this way and it does work.



If you want to do this then do not cut the fabric.



Take a thin but not too sharp knife and work the reinforcement tape

loose from the bottom side.  A piece of 0.25 aluminum with smoothed

edges can make a pretty good tool for this.  In the area you are talking

about you will have to start close to the firewall and work back close

to the main gear mount.  The goal is to take the tape loose from the

bottom fabric but don't break it loose from the side fabric and break

the paint on the side.  



Once the tape is peeled back you can peel the "side" fabric from the

bottom.  The bottom fabric can then be peeled loose from the bottom

tube.  This is time consuming but better than having to paint a large

area.  You can take another piece of thin aluminum and bend it over to

make a wide "hook" to make it easier to get at the edge of the fabric

wrapped around the tube.



Keep the fabric well back from the welding area and don't let it bend

over too far as the paint can crack.



When you put it all back do it all in reverse.  Clean the tubes 1st with

MEK.  Try to keep it off the fabric.  Reattach the fabric with poly-tak.

Pull it as tight as you can.  There will still be some loose spots and

these can be tightened with heat later.  Use poly-brush to reattach the

tape.



If done carefully the only visible sign you have done anything is the

break in the paint at the edge of the pinked tape on the bottom of the

fuselage.  If you are really careful the break will follow the zig-zag

edge of the tape.  The repair is really hard to see.



I know you will have to add some reinforcement tape to account for the

new bracket you are adding, but you may be able to put those tapes

"under" your existing fabric to hide the modification as much as

possible.  I haven't been able to get new paint to blend with old very

attractively.  Try to preserve the side tape and your touchups will be

under the fuselage.



Hope this helps,



Mark Napier



Time: 08:44:20 AM PST US

Subject: Re: Grove Gear Model II

From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs(at)elltel.net>



 	  Quote: 	
		   I am planning on installing grove gear on my model II. I will need to

add the
	


float mounting bracket and was looking for any help on how to weld this

with

minimal fabric damage. Any help would be appreciated.

 	  Quote: 	
		   


	




Bryan, if the finish is Poly tone it is fairly easy to cut out a section

of fabric

and replace with new.  If you have worked with fabric before it will be

easy,

if you haven't, someone helping  that has will be a must and use the

repair

instructions in the poly fiber manual.



I would use a straight edge and razor blade to cut out a section

spanning from

the leading edge of the stock front gear mount to about 8 inches forward

of the

new mount to be welded in.  From the bottom of the door frame to about 8

inches

in on the belly.



To repair the fabric, poly tack one new piece to the bottom door frame

and to the

old fabric down and under the belly.  No poly tack or wraping around the

bottom

longeron tube.  When you shrink the new piece it will pull the old

fabric

tight and back into place.



--------

Tom Jones

Classic IV

503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp

Ellensburg, WA

Read this topic online here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 65110#265110

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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List

Pat Reilly

Joined: 06 Aug 2009
Posts: 345

Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:38 pm Post subject: Grove Gear Model II

Bryan, You can also replace the fabric with an aluminum belly pan. I did on my model 3 and figure it added around 3 #. Maybe you don't want the added weight. But, it's just another option.

  

 Pat Reilly

 Mod 3 Rebuild

 Rockford, IL

 On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 9:10 AM, Mark Napier (napierm) <napierm(at)cisco.com (napierm(at)cisco.com)> wrote:

 [quote]--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mark Napier (napierm)" <napierm(at)cisco.com (napierm(at)cisco.com)>

 

Bryan,



Another method is to "peel" the fabric.  If the bottom fabric was put on

1st and then the side you are in luck.  You can peel and then re-glue

the fabric and it will look like it had never been touched.  I've done a

 couple of repairs this way and it does work.



If you want to do this then do not cut the fabric.



Take a thin but not too sharp knife and work the reinforcement tape

loose from the bottom side.  A piece of 0.25 aluminum with smoothed

 edges can make a pretty good tool for this.  In the area you are talking

about you will have to start close to the firewall and work back close

to the main gear mount.  The goal is to take the tape loose from the

 bottom fabric but don't break it loose from the side fabric and break

the paint on the side.



Once the tape is peeled back you can peel the "side" fabric from the

bottom.  The bottom fabric can then be peeled loose from the bottom

 tube.  This is time consuming but better than having to paint a large

area.  You can take another piece of thin aluminum and bend it over to

make a wide "hook" to make it easier to get at the edge of the fabric

 wrapped around the tube.



Keep the fabric well back from the welding area and don't let it bend

over too far as the paint can crack.



When you put it all back do it all in reverse.  Clean the tubes 1st with

 MEK.  Try to keep it off the fabric.  Reattach the fabric with poly-tak.

Pull it as tight as you can.  There will still be some loose spots and

these can be tightened with heat later.  Use poly-brush to reattach the

 tape.



If done carefully the only visible sign you have done anything is the

break in the paint at the edge of the pinked tape on the bottom of the

fuselage.  If you are really careful the break will follow the zig-zag

 edge of the tape.  The repair is really hard to see.



I know you will have to add some reinforcement tape to account for the

new bracket you are adding, but you may be able to put those tapes

"under" your existing fabric to hide the modification as much as

 possible.  I haven't been able to get new paint to blend with old very

attractively.  Try to preserve the side tape and your touchups will be

under the fuselage.



Hope this helps,



Mark Napier



 



Time: 08:44:20 AM PST US

Subject: Re: Grove Gear Model II

From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs(at)elltel.net (nahsikhs(at)elltel.net)>



 	  Quote: 	
		   I am planning on installing grove gear on my model II. I will need to

 add the
	


float mounting bracket and was looking for any help on how to weld this

with

minimal fabric damage. Any help would be appreciated.

 	  Quote: 	
		  


	




Bryan, if the finish is Poly tone it is fairly easy to cut out a section

 of fabric

and replace with new.  If you have worked with fabric before it will be

easy,

if you haven't, someone helping  that has will be a must and use the

repair

instructions in the poly fiber manual.

 

I would use a straight edge and razor blade to cut out a section

spanning from

the leading edge of the stock front gear mount to about 8 inches forward

of the

new mount to be welded in.  From the bottom of the door frame to about 8

 inches

in on the belly.



To repair the fabric, poly tack one new piece to the bottom door frame

and to the

old fabric down and under the belly.  No poly tack or wraping around the

bottom

longeron tube.  When you shrink the new piece it will pull the old

 fabric

tight and back into place.



--------

Tom Jones

Classic IV

503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp

Ellensburg, WA

Read this topic online here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265110#265110

 Subscription,

 www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List

 ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com

 Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 =====



[b]

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bughntr(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 3:52 pm Post subject: Grove Gear Model II

Pat; 

Interesting idea. Do you have a photo that will show me what you have done?  Thanks..Bryan

---

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Pat Reilly

Joined: 06 Aug 2009
Posts: 345

Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:14 pm Post subject: Grove Gear Model II

Bryan, I don't have any photos of the aluminum belly pan. It was easy for me. I did it in the fusalage covering process. I had the fusalage on a rotisserie so I had the bottom up, cut the sheet to dimenson, laid it on and marked for any cut outs around the brackets. I can't remember the thickness of the sheet I used. I made it in 2 pieces, one fore and one aft. Front one overlapping the rear piece. I folded the edges over to stiffen. I used rivet nuts for 10-24 screws that I attached to the tubing with wraps of adhesive anti chafe tape. Maybe 12 or so per each piece. I know at the time I thought this will never be attached well enough but low and behold something worked better than anticipated for a change. Sorry, I can't be more descripitive, or have pictures for you.

  A number of the KFer's poopooed me at the time. But, I have already had the pan off to install Lowell Fitt's bush gear. Had the pan off in 10 minutes and back on in 10 minutes. No worries about recovering. I'd do it again  if I was building or rebuilding another KF.

   

 Pat Reilly

 Mod 3 582 Rebuild

 Rockford, IL 

 On Mon, Sep 28, 2009 at 6:50 PM, <bughntr(at)comcast.net (bughntr(at)comcast.net)> wrote:

 [quote]   

Pat; 

Interesting idea. Do you have a photo that will show me what you have done?  Thanks..Bryan   

 

---

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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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