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Wires out in the wing tips

 
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jpl(at)showpage.org
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 6:28 am    Post subject: Wires out in the wing tips Reply with quote

Well, I'm almost ready (after far too many years) to rivet wing
skins. I'm having a problem deciding about something. I haven't
done anything about making a path for any wires that I may need out
in the wing tips.

I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
be position and strobe lights out in the tips.

For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
grommets, all bundled together?

I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
aluminum wire Smile

Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.

Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?

I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
grommets.

As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
way again."

-Joe


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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 6:50 am    Post subject: Wires out in the wing tips Reply with quote

Joe,

I just used snap bushings in each rib, no conduit. When you run the wires
use cable ties about every 4 to 6 inches in the rib bays between the ribs.
Use mil spec aircraft type wire. Van's wiring kit has tables for the wire
sizes for different amps and run lengths. Also, go to
http://www.aeroelectric.com for lots of ideas.

The only thing I would do differently would be to make larger holes for
larger snap bushings to begin with. I had to make up drill extensions out of 1/4
rod to adapt to a Unibit to enlarge some holes after the wings were on the
plane. Remember, you may want to put an autopilot servo in the wing. Mine is
in the bellcrank bay, but some swear by the wingtip location. I wouldn't
change my decision here! One trouble spot is where the wire transitions from
wing to fuselage. Before you put the wings on it would make things easier if
you plan a straight path here.

Hope this helps,

Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A flying 146 hours


In a message dated 3/31/2006 9:31:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jpl(at)showpage.org writes:
I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
be position and strobe lights out in the tips.

For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
grommets, all bundled together?

I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
aluminum wire Smile

Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.

Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?

I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
grommets.

As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
way again."

-Joe


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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Guest





PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:26 am    Post subject: Wires out in the wing tips Reply with quote

Joe,

I forgot to mention: it is not necessary to run a ground wire to the wings
for the lights. Just ground the lights to a screw through the wing rib, etc.
For the autopilot, I ran a separate ground (shield). This is how Cessnas
and all the certificated airplanes that I know of do it.

Dan Hopper
RV-7A (flying)


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jpl(at)showpage.org
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:55 am    Post subject: Wires out in the wing tips Reply with quote

Dan,

Thanks for your comments. They're very helpful.

-Joe

On Mar 31, 2006, at 9:24 AM, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:

Quote:


Joe,

I forgot to mention: it is not necessary to run a ground wire to
the wings
for the lights. Just ground the lights to a screw through the wing
rib, etc.
For the autopilot, I ran a separate ground (shield). This is how
Cessnas
and all the certificated airplanes that I know of do it.

Dan Hopper
RV-7A (flying)


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HCRV6(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 5:42 pm    Post subject: Wires out in the wing tips Reply with quote

I used grommets in each wing rib and wished several times during finishing that I had used a plastic conduit or some of the flexible conduit that Van's sells. It would have been much easier to add wires that I forgot about in the initial installation.

If you do use grommets, be sure to run a continuous loop of strong cord through them for use in pulling wires through. Keep it there until you are absolutely certain that you won't need any more wires.

I used a single point ground at the firewall for everything else but I did ground the lights and strobe power packs to the airframe at the wing tips. I have had no ground loop issues to deal with so I'd do it that way again.

I have a VOR antenna (Bob Archer's in the right wing tip and it works fine. for com I'm convinced an external antenna is best for RV's but that's just me. Mine is belly mounted.

--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 195 hours

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Quote:


Well, I'm almost ready (after far too many years) to rivet wing
skins. I'm having a problem deciding about something. I haven't
done anything about making a path for any wires that I may need out
in the wing tips.

I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
be position and strobe lights out in the tips.

For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
grommets, all bundled together?

I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
aluminum wire Smile

Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.

Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?

I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
grommets.

As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
way again."

-Joe














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dsvs(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 6:05 pm    Post subject: Wires out in the wing tips Reply with quote

I used the flex conduit that Van's sells, works fine. I made the holes a
little larger than speced to ease installation and then used RTV to glue the
conduit in so vibration would not cut it. If you use conduit, make sure
that you put it in a place where it does not get in the way of bucking the
last skin. This skin is hard enough to install without any additional
issues. I also ran return wires for everything. Don

--


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Mark Phillips in TN



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 431
Location: Columbia, TN

PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 8:39 am    Post subject: Wires out in the wing tips Reply with quote

In a message dated 3/31/06 8:31:51 AM Central Standard Time, jpl(at)showpage.org
writes:

Quote:
I haven't
done anything about making a path for any wires that I may need out
in the wing tips.

I used 5/8" CPVC water pipe through holes about 2" in front of the spar and
about 1" from the top skin, held in place by a bead of E-6000 adhesive (GOOP)
at the tip rib. This has worked out extremely well as it took all of maybe 1
minute to feed the wires out to the tips. Easy to add/remove wires later as
well. Another advantage is that the conduit can be easily slid into the wing at
final assembly instead of being in the way for riveting etc. If you have
already attached the ribs, you could make a simple jig keyed off of the large
holes in the rib or possibly the tooling holes to drill the conduit holes in the
same position. I drilled mine before assembly as shown here:

http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4868

Click on the foto for a better view.

Mark Phillips -6A N51PW - 295 hours


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